rd2rk

That's not what I said, though I can see where it might be confusing. If you want to use the BIG KNOB to control your FRFR, then you'll need to take the FRFR signal from the Main Left/MONO Out with the Global setting for the BIG KNOB set to that output (XLR or 1/4"), then use a SEND at the end of your signal chain with a TS cable (like a guitar cable) from that SEND connected to a DI box for FOH (to get a balanced signal for the longer cable run). Same affect, FOH gets a consistent signal and you get control of the FRFR volume with the BIG KNOB. You're probably OK without the FRFR, but bring it anyway, even if you leave it in the car, because you never know with house supplied monitors and a FOH tech who might be the bartender or the waitress's cousin Freddy whose day job is as a salesman at Guitar Center. We know how knowledgeable they are!

If you're configured as I described then you should hear BOTH the FOH/IEM feed (including the bass if your mix includes it) AND your direct bass signal. I tried it before I typed it, it works. I just tried it again to be sure I hadn't missed/mistyped anything. It still works. I'm getting the FOH/IEM mix (in my case here at home that's Spotify) including my bass and the direct bass signal both mixed in the HPs.

Are the floor monitors yours or provided by the house? If you KNOW that the monitors are good then no need for the FRFR. I'd bring it anyway as backup. In order to prevent accidental changes, I disable the BIG KNOB in Global Settings by setting it to control something other than the outputs I'm using for FOH. That effectively sets it to 10. That way FOH gets a consistent signal, no surprises. If you're using your FRFR for stage level in addition to the floor monitors and you use the BIG KNOB to control the signal to your FRFR that will also change the level to FOH. Find another way to control its level - a volume pedal or small mixer or? FOH will thank you.

What you've described is how it works. EDIT: if you're following the procedure as I'm about to describe but firmly PRESSing the knob doesn't work as described then yeah, HW problem. To MOVE a block you use the Joystick<> to select the block PRESS Action Use Joystick<> to MOVE the block PRESS Action to drop it in place To open the Models List you use the Joystick<> to select the block PRESS the joystick knob TURN the knob to select the FX Category PRESS the knob to open the MONO/STEREO/LEGACY column TURN the knob to select MONO/STEREO/LEGACY PRESS the knob to open the actual Models List TURN the joystick knob to select the actual model PRESS the knob to confirm the model and return to the signal chain view If you want to CHANGE the effect model just select the block, press the knob, turn it to your desired effect and press again. If you want to replace the effect with one in a different category, select the block, press the knob and Joystick<> to the proper category and repeat the initial effect selection process. This is one of the most complicated operations performed in the UI and in order to DESCRIBE it I had to run back and forth to my Helix. When I'm actually doing it, I don't even think about it. Practice makes perfect!

You can't see the names above the switches even in Snapshot Mode?

You've just proved that Helix is not the problem. You'll have to ask Blackstar about your WTF issue. Or just use a dummy plug in the amp input and get on with playing your guitar. Though, it is really weird, and I'd LOVE to know what BS was thinking... maybe there's a valid electrical reason in that amp's design? I had an HT5R that worked fine in all configurations.

They're always active in the sense that you can use them to modify the preset, but they do not affect the preset unless you use them to do so. The easiest way to understand this is to use the Catalyst Edit app. When you load a preset, compare the panel settings to the settings as they appear in the app. They probably do not match. Now change something obvious like the Channel Volume using the panel knob. When the knob catches up to the setting shown in the app, the setting in the app will start to change. Let's say that the Channel Volume in both A and B in that BANK was at 50%. If you're in Channel A and you crank the panel knob to 100% you'll see the knob in the app crank to 100% and the preset will get LOUD! Now, in the app, change to Channel B. Channel B will show its saved Channel Volume of 50% even though the knob is at 100%. Now switch back to Channel A. The Channel volume will still be at 100% even if, while in Channel B, you changed the knob to 50%. Now, in the app, switch to another BANK, then switch back to the original BANK. The Channel Volume will be back at 50% (the SAVED value) even though the panel knob is still cranked. This happens because changes to presets are retained (not saved) between CHANNEL (A/B) changes but are discarded when you change BANKS. NOTE - This works the same way using the FS but DOES NOT (retain changes between channels) when switching via MIDI! Who knows why, just something to be aware of. This sounds confusing but it makes sense (not the MIDI part). Suppose that while performing you need more volume (or different EQ settings for the room) on one channel, but not the other. You can make that change to the Channel Volume (or tone stack) and it/they will persist between channel changes. Why those changes don't persist between BANK changes is probably a programming/code necessity of some sort. I would think it would be handy, but since all you have to do is press and hold the channel button to SAVE the new configuration that's easy enough to get around and, if you're a graduate of Computer Usage 101 then you've backed up all of your presets on your computer and can restore the originals at will. You DID back up your presets, right?

Here's another reason to use FX Loop Mode. You have 12 presets available in your Cat. Each preset can have one of 6 different reverbs and one of 18 other effects. All of those effects will be POST your UA device, so effects that don't sound all that good in the post amp position won't sound all that great, but TBH, I haven't tried them all so I don't know which ones those would be. The ones I've tried (MODS like Phaser and Flanger) sounded fine. YMMV. Point is you get 12 different post amp FX configurations - FREE!

Only if you have no need of the Cat's FX. The ONLY difference between LINE level and INSTRUMENT level is that INSTRUMENT level is LOWER than LINE level. The difference between FX Loop and POWERAMP is that POWERAMP is 6 (or 10, I forget) db lower than FX Loop, and in POWERAMP mode the POST FX are bypassed. IOW - YOU DO NOT HAVE TO USE THE POWERAMP SETTING WITH A LINE LEVEL DEVICE! The only functional difference is that in FX LOOP mode you don't have to turn the Cat's MASTER up as much to achieve the same level as in POWERAMP mode, and in FX Loop mode the FX are active. I run my Helix into the Cat's RETURN in FX Loop Mode and the ONLY difference between the Helix set to LINE Level and Helix set to is the level of the Cat's output. When I use my HX Stomp instead of Helix this saves me two of the eight available blocks because I don't need to use delay and reverb on the HXS, I use the Cat's delay and reverb instead. IOW When you run your UA into the Cat's RETURN in FX Loop mode you don't need external delay (or any other Cat effect), or reverb because you can use the Cat's! In the words of the inimitable Tony the Tiger - "Go ahead and use your UA device into the Cat's RETURN in FX Loop Mode - it's GREAT!"

If you're talking about the camera icon in the upper right corner of the display, that's the way it is. You'll only see the names in Snapshot mode.

That just means it's LINE Level and you won't need to turn up the Cat as much as if it were INSTRUMENT Level.

If it's designed to go into the Input of a guitar amp, then the Output Level is Instrument. You may need to use the FX Loop position of the switch to get the best level. That will also enable you to use any FX that you place in the POST position.

I haven't, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work just fine. AFAIK, those UA devices are not actually "preamps", they're full-on AIAB pedals. Did you have specific concerns?

Are you using the LT's PREAMPS? if so, that's the problem. Use the FULL amps (NOT AMP+CAB unless you like that sound - try it, can't hurt anything!). The FULL amp incorporates the sound of the modeled poweramp and includes a Speaker Impedance Curve (models the interaction between a poweramp and speaker). The BS 50r, being solid-state, likely has a fairly clean power amp with most of its tone shaping in its preamp section.

That would be useful to do what?

F8 (what Helix sends) = 11111000 = 248 DECIMAL SYNCS the devices FA (Start - what the SL-2 wants to RE-START the pattern) = 11111010 = 250 IOW - (I think) the Helix and SL-2 will be SYNCED, but he won't be able to re-start the pattern from Helix. SYNC and RE-START are different functions. I think that it might be possible to take the SYSEX generated by the MMC commands and translate to MIDI Clock using the BOME MIDI Translator, but that's a pretty expensive solution. EDIT - UNLESS toggling the SL-2 ON/OFF re-starts the pattern. OP - try it!

From the SL-2 Manual: Using MIDI clocks to synchronize with an external MIDI device When the SL-2 receives a timing clock (F8H), a start message (FAH), a continue message (FBH) or a stop message (FCH), this device synchronizes its tempo to the external device. You can’t use the following operations to set the tempo of the SL-2 while it is synchronized to MIDI clocks. Tempo settings (tap tempo) using the pedal switch of the SL-2 or a footswitch connected to the SL-2 Tempo settings by receiving control change messages (CC#81) Tempo settings made via MIDI clocks are not stored in this device. MIDI clocks are part of the MIDI system common information (system real-time messages). As such, they don’t have MIDI channel settings. When a start (FAH) message is received, the slice pattern is output from the beginning. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I spent over an hour this AM researching the hell out of this. When MIDI Clock is enabled, Helix is sending F8 (per MIDIOX - the H is just there to differentiate HEX from DECIMAL). As near as I can tell, if you've got the proper MIDI cable and Helix Send MIDI Clock is set to MIDI this should just work. You might want to contact BOSS support if it doesn't. Possible problem - if the SL-2 requires a START (FAh) message, you're screwed because AFAICT, Helix can't do that.

Yes, the knobs are active and will affect what you hear, but the preset is not changed permanently unless you SAVE the changes. When you switch to MANUAL you hear the actual panel settings. Changes made while in MANUAL mode are not applied to the loaded preset UNLESS you press and hold a channel button, thus SAVING the panel settings to the preset whose button you pressed and held.

The HP monitors the Main Outs OR the SENDS. In Gobal Settings Ins/Outs set PHONES MONITOR to MAIN L/R. Place a SEND L at the end of your signal chain. That goes to FOH and/or wherever the band's In-Ear Mix comes from. In Global Settings Ins/Outs set RETURN TYPE to AUX IN. Take your In-Ear Mix into the RETURNS.

The cab sim affects XLR, HP and USB. It cannot be bypassed. The Cat 100 HP Out passes stereo from the AUX in, but the amp itself is MONO. The Cat 60, AFAIK, is all MONO.

The panel controls are always active. When you load a preset (all of the "Channels" are simply presets) the current knob settings are overridden by the preset. That way you can fine-tune your preset and save ONLY the changes - the rest of the preset is not affected by the knob positions.

Post this (and further related) over on the FCB forum where ossandust or someone with a MAC will see it and be able to help. I don't use MAC so I have no clue how to fix that.

When you assign a parameter to a FS there is a MIN (FS OFF)/MAX (FS ON) setting. In HX Edit you'll find this in the BYPASS/CONTROLLER ASSIGN pane. RTM for details.

Great! Roger (site admin) usually approves new members within 24 hrs. Meanwhile, food for thought. -------------------------------------------------------- Configuration #1 Using the stock FCB Chip to control Catalyst you'll need at least 2 FCB Banks. Here's what a very basic configuration might look like. FCB Bank 00 FS1 - Cat Bank1 ChA FS2 - Cat Bank1 ChB FS3 - Cat Bank2 ChA FS4 - Cat Bank2 ChB FS6 - Cat Bank3 ChA FS7 - Cat Bank3 ChB FS8 - Cat Bank4 ChA FS9 - Cat Bank4 ChB FCB Bank 01 FS1-4 selects Catalyst Banks 5/6 Channels A/B In both FCB Banks: Exp A = Volume Exp B = Expression --------------------------------------------------------- To accomplish the above you'll need to read the FCB User's guide to learn how the manual configuration works. You can also manage it using one of the FREE editors. Configuration #2 Another way to configure the stock FCB for Catalyst (using the manual method only) is to set it up so that each FCB Bank loads both Catalyst Channels of a Catalyst Bank with toggling of all 4 of the above-mentioned catalyst functions (gate, boost, effect and reverb) using TOGGLING ON/OFF switches. FCB Bank 00 FS1 - Cat Bank1 ChA FS2-5 Toggle the 4 functions FS6 - Cat Bank1 ChB FS7-10 Toggle the 4 functions FCB Bank 01 FS1 - Cat Bank2 ChA FS2-5 Toggle the 4 functions FS6 - Cat Bank2 ChB FS7-10 Toggle the 4 functions FCB Bank 02 etc. The drawback here being that since there's only 10 Banks, you only get to use 5 Catalyst Banks with A/B Channels - IOW 10 Channels. If you aren't already convinced, after you mess with the manual configuration for a couple of hours you'll understand why so many FCB users opt for the UNO upgrade. Using the UNO Chip, each FCB Bank can load 2xA/B (4 Cat Channels) and every FCB Bank automatically has 5 Toggling Stomp switches. After you've used the FREE editors you'll understand why most users get the FCB_ControlCenter even if they only use the stock chip. Using ControlCenter, configuration is a breeze and transferring the configuration from editor to FCB is likewise a breeze. Presets and Stomp switches can be on either row (top or bottom) and swapped on demand with a single option setting. Screenshot of UNO/Cat Configuration attached. In case you're wondering, no, I don't get anything for convincing you to go UNO except the personal satisfaction of knowing I've saved another person's sanity and made their use of whatever device or SW they're using a pleasure rather than an ordeal. Anyhow, looking forward to seeing you over there!

Far left column, above the preset list, right below where it says "Setlists".