rd2rk

IIRC, LF Flat is the speaker eq'd to be flat, no HF Driver. In Speaker Mode I assigned CC#5 (HF Trim) to an expression pedal and played, both guitar and synth. I can see the HF Trim slider moving in Powercab Edit/System but hear no difference, so it does appear that the HF Driver is OFF in Speaker Mode.

You realize that this is an 8-year-old thread and the person you're replying to hasn't been back in 7 years? I'm thinking their problem was solved, and they never got around to reporting back. FWIW - after they replaced some boards on mine 6 years ago, the digital I/O (AES and SPDIF) have worked fine. I see you're a new member so WELCOME and BEWARE of ZOMBIE THREADS! They'll eat your brain! ;-)

In Global Settings>Ins/Outs, are the MAIN OUTS set the same? There's no PAD on the XL, so you use the INST/LINE settings to accomplish that.

If you've upgraded the Cat's FW to the latest version you now have 12 amps (vs the original 6). Depending on your concept of "Blues Tone", one of them should do the job. Try them all and use the KNOBS on the Cat to fine tune the amps. The original amps are in GROUP 1 and the NEW amps are in Group 2. D/L the new CATALYST Pilot's Guide to see what the amps in each group are. Don't be afraid to try the HI-Gain amps. Lowering the GAIN can get some fine modern blues tones out of even the BADONK! Keep in mind that the Tone Stack knobs are very important, especially the MID control.

The 8i6 has S/PDIF. Assuming that when you say Heilx you mean the FLOOR model, not the LT, this is how I do it with my 18i20. NOTE - the 18i20 uses different USB #s - 9/10 (7/8 on the 8i6); 11/12 (5/6 on the 8i6): With the 8i6 set as the ASIO Device in your DAW. Guitar>Helix>Helix FX (OD/MODS etc)>Path 1 Output Block=DIGITAL Helix SPDIF OUT>8i6 SPDIF INPUT DAW Track Input USB 7/8 (SPDIF)>Plugins>DAW Track Output 5/6 (SPDIF) 8i6 SPDIF Output>Helix SPDIF IN>Helix Path 2 Input=DIGITAL>Helix FX (Delay/Reverb etc)>Path 2 Output Block Helix MAIN Outs In Focusrite Control you want the SPDIF Outputs (not MUTED) set to "SOFTWARE (DAW) PLAYBACK 5/6". All other Inputs MUTED. Whichever 8i6 Outputs your speakers are connected to should be set to whichever 8i6 Inputs your Helix MAIN Outs are connected to. In my case I connect the Helix XLRs to the 18i20 Inputs 1/2 from where I can use Focusrite Control to route to the 8i6 Outputs 1/2 (Studio Monitors). 3/4 (Powercab), 5/6 (FRFR112). This configuration provides minimal latency as the signal chain is DIGITAL from Helix to Scarlett to DAW to Scarlett to Helix with the only AD/DA conversions at the Helix Input and Output - the path from the Helix Main Outs through the Scarlett to the speakers is analog. To RECORD the final Helix Output setup another track to take its INPUT from whichever 8i6 Inputs the Helix Main Outs are connected to - in my case Inputs 1/2. If you have an LT you can still do this, but unless you use the LT as your ASIO Device you'll be adding conversions.

My description and his diagram, plus the descriptions and diagrams in the manual, should be enough. But you say it's working, so ROCK ON!

You ALWAYS use a Helix amp, else it WILL sound like S#$&. In FRFR/LF FLAT/LF RAW/ Modes you'll likely use a CAB/IR in Helix or an IR loaded on your PC+ (called USERIR Mode). Which Mode you use depends on your ears. When I go this way I cut the HF Trim (tweeter level) by 6db. Sounds good to me. I usually use Speaker Mode. "AITR" is a term made up to differentiate between standing in front of a RAW AMP and listening to an engineered/processed amp such as on a recording or through the PA at a concert. IOW - 99% of the music you've ever heard and ALL of the recorded sounds you're trying to emulate with your modeler. Try EVERYTHING! Use what YOU like. DON'T believe everything you "hear". EVERY guitar played through an amplifier and speaker in a room is "AITR"!

4cm: 1) Guitar>HXSXL Input This is where you put the FX you want BEFORE the Mesa Preamp After those FX you place the FX Loop L Block HXSXL SEND (TS cable = Left Send)>Mesa Input Mesa FX Loop Send>HXSXL L/Mono Return This will return the Mesa's Preamp (with the FX assigned before the HXSXL FX Loop Block) to the FX Loop Block After the FX Loop Block is where you put FX like Delay/Reverb that you want between the Mesa Preamp and Poweramp HXSXL L/Mono MAIN Output>Mesa FX Loop Return 2) if you want a CLEAN boost to the overall volume, you can either place a GAIN Block at the END of the chain (before the Output block) or, to conserve a Block, assign a FS to the Output Block Level and set the MIN (Bypass/Controller Assign in HX Edit) to 0db and the MAX to whatever you want (I use +4db). 3) Only if you want to replace the Mesa Preamp with a Helix Amp/Preamp, in which case you place the Helix Amp Block next to the FX Loop Block, assign both to the same FS, and SAVE the preset with the FX Loop ON (the default for the Preset) and the Helix Amp OFF. This will Toggle the FX Loop (ON = Mesa Preamp, Helix Amp=OFF) and the Helix Amp (FX Loop =OFF, Helix Amp=ON).

Quote the section that you are referring to.

If the Sunset is in an FX Loop and all you want to do is Bypass it without using the Sunset's internal Bypass functions just Toggle the FX Loop ON/OFF. Maybe we're not clear on exactly what you want to do?

Sounds fine to me with no jumping through hoops. Maybe you just don't like this amp?

Have you solved this yet? All is well on my system.

TABLE OF CONTENTS MANY of the questions asked here are NOT covered in the manual. Yours is covered in the first couple of sections. We're happy to help with those questions that are not covered, but we're not going to re-type the manual for you to explain the absolute basics of use!

Short answer - no. The Powercab cabinet is designed to sound like a guitar cab, NOT an "FRFR", whatever that mythical unicorn is. ALL guitar cabs/speakers color the sound one way or another, and they're all different. The "FRFR" mode is a compromise for users who insist on using IRs. The best results I've gotten with IRs is to cut the HF TRIM by 6db and use the Helix IRs with different MICs and MIC placements. You can also use the Global EQ (if not using L6 Link) to try and tune it to taste across presets. However, the Global EQ is intended for tuning the cab to the room, and whatever room you set it up in, it will have to be changed for each room. Such is the nature of real-world acoustics. So, bottom line, you can spend hours messing with EQ, or you can spend hours messing with different IRs or the Helix IRs with different MICs and MIC placements, but when you move the Powercab from your studio to a gig you'll still need to fine tune it to the room using the Global EQ. I mostly just use it the way it was designed to be used - as an "AITR" with the speaker emulations. Works for me, but then I'm old enough to remember just plugging my guitar into my tube amp of choice (that year) or whatever was provided at the gig and making the best of it. Hmmm... that could mean that the only cure for your picky ears is many years of standing in front of cranked Marshalls! I don't advise it. If I had it to do over again... AHH! To be young again, with all the options (and associated option paralysis) available to us today!

Try whatever you think you might like, it won't explode. When using a SS power amp most people use a full amp block, NOT a pre-amp block. The main reason to use a pre-amp block is if you're pairing it with a TUBE power amp, which adds its own flavor. A SS power amp is just flat (though not necessarily FRFR), so to get the sound of a full amp you use a full amp block. IOW - a JCM800 is the combination of its ECC83 preamp and EL34 power amp. A JCM800 pre-amp MODEL (models ECC83) into a SS power amp is not going to sound anything like a JCM800. Thus, use the full amp model.

Yes. RTM. It explains how to do it much better than I could by re-typing it here.

Not so. The ToneX Input and Output are both INSTRUMENT Level, so only one S/R Block required. At first I was under the impression that the ToneX Ouput was LINE Level and I posted to that effect. IK Support has confirmed that both Input and Output are INSTRUMENT Level . I went back and tried to find and correct any posts I made but may not have found them all. I did fix the post I made in this thread, but if you got your info from something I posted elsewhere, please link me to it so I can change it.

"I can't get it to work!" doesn't tell us much. What EXACTLY are you trying to do? "I want to control XYZ parameter with my HXFX using (snapshots, footswitches, exp pedal, ???) In addition to my HXFX I'm using (????) hardware. What have you ALREADY tried (with detail)? Where are you encountering a problem? My computer and OS are ??? Have you employed a MIDI Monitor to see that the HXFX is sending what you THINK it's sending? Have you read the Iridium manual (MIDI configuration details start around Pg 23, MIDI CC# Chart on Pg 30). Have you read the HXFX Manual (Esp the Command Center section)? Please respond to ALL of the above questions as they are ALL important and there are no dentists here. ;-)

Definitely not normal and you've covered the basic troubleshooting steps. Open a support ticket. If it's still in warranty or a known issue you may luck out.

On the device, select the DELAY Block and press the TIME knob. That toggles delay length in ms and note length. In HX Edit, select the DELAY Block. See the clock icon at the end of the "NOTE SYNC" slider? That toggles delay length in ms and note length.

Helix Edit is to Helix Native as a typewriter is to a book. As a potato masher is to mashed potatoes. As a frying pan is to a scrambled egg. You can't eat a potato masher, and you can't make music with Helix Edit. Helix Edit is used to edit the files which constitute the presets that you can load into Helix or Helix Native to make musical sounds come out of the thing on the floor or that thing on your desk. You don't need Helix Edit to use your Helix or Helix Native any more than you need a potato masher to eat a potato or a frying pan to eat an egg. Its greatest value is as a file manager and as a visual aid to help you to avoid the need to bend over a lot or clutter up your desk with that big old hunk of metal that you step on with your dirty shoes and smelly feet. It is, however, free!

It's useful when asking for help to provide details such as computer OS and DAW.

My preferred workflow when creating presets with Powercab is to start with the Amp and Cab, get the PC's Input LED set (yellow on hard strums) and then build the preset from there, checking that LED as I add blocks and using the output level of each block to keep the preset levelled re the PC's Input LED. The last thing I add is clean lead boost. That might come from a GAIN Block or a compressor at the end. If that puts the LED in the RED then I can just lower the Output Block a bit. IOW, I'm using the PC's LED to level my presets, starting with the amp and cab. The output block is the final level tune-up before the signal hits the PC (or FOH if not using the PC). It's not a compensation for a poorly gain-staged preset. Like with most things Helix, there's lots of ways to do things. This is my way. The advice above about the Channel Volume was for someone on the verge of a gig and levelling his presets at the last minute. There's no real reason he COULDN'T use the Output Block Level, just my preference for his case. You do whatever works for you!

Not an oversight, an intentional design feature. The field at the top is a USER ASSIGNABLE PRESET/CHANNEL NAME, never intended to reflect the actual AMP model. If YOU want the NAME field to reflect the AMP name, it takes a moment to EDIT it. Consider this - suppose that you only use 3 of the 12 amps, and have 3 presets using variations of Amp A; 5 presets using Amp B and 4 presets using Amp C. You now have 3 presets named "AMP A", 5 presets named "AMP B" and 4 Presets named "AMP C". You'd have to EDIT the names or you wouldn't know which is which, wouldn't you? Lastly, unless you ALWAYS have the APP open that NAME FIELD, for all intents and purposes, DOESN'T EVEN EXIST! IDK about you, but when I'm performing on stage the LAST thing I have time (or desire) to deal with is a COMPUTER SCREEN! And if I wanted a screen on my amp I'd get a FENDER MUSTANG! But, if this is important to you, post your suggestion here: https://line6.ideascale.com/c/ FWIW - the ideal companion to the Catalyst is either an HX Stomp, HX FX or Helix Floor/LT. Full control via MIDI, massively expanded amp and FX selection and a screen to tell you whatever you think you need to know without bringing a frelling computer on stage. Even the iPad I use at home would be an unwelcome distraction. Works for me, but TBH, for a grab'n'go jam rig, the Cat and LFS2 FS is all I need! Maybe a WAH...

I was trying to figure out how to do this on my iPad, since I don't have a MAC, and stumbled upon that by accident! If anybody's interested, on an iPad in Track View you drag the Track Header to the right to get those options.