rd2rk

Page 68 of the LT 3.80 manual:

2 Re-amp Src (USB 7)

3 Re-amp Src (USB 8)

USB out 7 and 8 are dedicated to recording a DI signal which can be used for re-amping; choose which two inputs will be sent dry (unpro cessed) to your DAW.

By default, USB 7 is set to “Guitar” and USB 8 to “Variax.” See “USB Audio”

On 12/14/2025 at 5:00 PM, Motto85 said:

Just wanted to also add that the output of the clean signal comes from channel 8 if you're recording. I haven't seen anyone talk about this on any of the forums yet.

We talk about it frequently here whenever the question of Helix vs 3rd party Audio Interface comes up.

That only works if you're using Helix as the ASIO Audio Device in your DAW, and you can use either 7 or 8 for the various applicable Inputs.

You need to check your guitar and cables.

Most of what little noise I hear is coming from the Red Squeeze.

That compressor into a distortion, even a Timmy, is guaranteed to be noisy.

The Helix versions are actually pretty quiet relative to the RW analog versions.

I bypassed your Hard Gate and used the Input Gate (default settings) and it went dead silent even with both the Red Squeeze and Teemah ON.

That was with both a PRS S2 CU24 and my funky old Affinity Tele.

On 12/14/2025 at 1:55 PM, ACD123 said:

I’ll try this out later , thanks for the tip.

On re-reading my post, I should clarify.

When you SAVE the preset in PC Edit, it's saved to the Powercab.

When you fire up PC Edit it simply reads what's on your Powercab.

No presets are saved on your computer.

That's why I specified that you need to export your presets to a folder on your computer, preferably one that backs up to the cloud.

When you save it to your PC it's also saved to the Powercab. You can load it on the Powercab without being connected to the PC.

Changes are made to an existing preset, or by creating a new preset.

Then you SAVE the preset.

It's annoying but quite doable.

WARNING: Export your modified/new presets to a folder on your computer, preferably one that backs up to the cloud because, you know, computers...

Most of the amp models have a HUM setting. You can dial that down to zero, but it sounds like you have some other problem.

Attach a preset that has the problem and I'll have a look at it.

On 12/10/2025 at 4:25 AM, arschr said:

@rd2rkIf I had spdif like on the stadium and focusrite, how would that change your recommendations? I'm unsure of what cababilities spdif adds beyond removing (some) digital to analog conversions. 

Relating to latency when playing thru amp sims. Less conversions means less latency.

Not really a factor when using only the HW.

I never liked my HD500X. Sold it to get Helix.

Sounds great into my Catalyst.

On 12/9/2025 at 4:12 AM, arschr said:

Thanks all. I'll need to think about this. I do also have helix native.

My current understanding is

• If I feed the helix LT through the Focusrite input ports, I'll loose ability for dry recording
• If I feed focusrite outputs to helix I'll loose helix return ports

If you use your LT as AI you'll need to connect your monitors there and RETURN your signal to the LT using USB 1/2 for the Master out from your DAW (usually the default).

Your loops are still free.

You will incur the additional latency I mentioned, which is not a problem for recording from the LT (DIRECT MONITORING), but could be a problem if using other amp sims.

If you use the FR as AI, to get DRY recording you'll need to place a SEND block at the beginning of your signal chain and run that to a FR Input channel.

IOW, you lose the ability to use USB channels 7/8 for the DRY signal and you lose a block and loop (1 for MONO, both for STEREO) in each preset which would only really be a problem in kitchen sink type presets where you need EVERY block or if you need both loops for external FX/4cm. 

It's a tradeoff. What's more important to you - kitchen sink presets and external FX/4cm, or DRY recording?

I use my FR vs my Helix as AI for all of the above reasons (I sometimes use the other amp sims I mentioned) and also because routing all of my sound through the FR with speakers attached there is less wiring and a simpler way to connect other instruments to my system vs using Helix loops (of which I have two more than you) and creating my presets to accommodate that. When I want to go out and jam with my Helix I just pull the IEC, AES and 2 XLRs and I'm on my way.

Bottom line - if you were on a budget and didn't already have the FR, using your LT as AI would be most convenient, but since that's not the case, use the FR.

Also - when you upgrade to the Stadium XL you'll be able to utilize the SPDIF. Just sayin'.

You remember correctly.

I have Helix Floor and FR 18i20. This allows me to use SPDIF for recording or playing through my studio monitors.

Having SPDIF also allows me to play through plugins with absolutely minimal latency due to fewer AD/DA conversions.

You don't have that option with the LT.

You didn't specify which generation of FR you have, but gen2 and up, even without using SPDIF, all have lower total RT latency than Helix when Helix is used as AI.

It's not a lot - 7.6ms vs 12.6ms at 64spls/48k - but if you're latency sensitive it matters.

This does not matter when recording ONLY, but if you'd like to use plugins such as Helix NATIVE, AT5, THU you want to use the FR as your AI.

Note that if you want to record while playing over and recording streaming audio, you should connect your computer's HP Out to the Line Inputs on the FR.

You'll probably need a "hum destroyer" to filter out the USB ground loop noise. I use a cheap Pyle PHE300. Behringer sells the same device with their brand name.

I also have a Powercab which I use as @somebodyelsedescribed but I take the Outs from the Powercab to enable me to get the speaker emulations and use the IRs on the Powercab. That spares DSP on my Helix for more complex signal chains. Not essential, just a personal preference.

More questions?

It's on page 2 of the Input Block settings, not in the GLOBAL settings.

FWIW - you're already getting the SOUND/FEEL part of using a tube amp on stage.

The difference in SOUND to FOH imparted by the tubes is not all that noticeable out in the audience.

How much time/money do you want to spend getting that last 5% that only the audience hears?

I know what you're saying, as you stated, it's been asked many times.

There is no power amp block in Helix.

A Reactive Load Box allows you to incorporate the power amp out of your amp into the signal to FOH via a Line Out.

At this point in time it is the best solution.

I've tried what you are suggesting. It was less than satisfactory and wasted a lot of time.

While you COULD try various Helix amps set as neutral as possible and find an acceptable sound/feel, an RLB is the simplest way to do it.

No. To get what you're after you'll need a reactive load box such as the Two Notes Torpedo.

I assume that you've performed a factory reset?

Try re-installing the FW.

If that doesn't get it, open a support ticket.

In that case it should just work. I would contact Fractal to see if there's a problem on that end.

I'm suspecting that both windows update and HXEdit are having a problem with that processor.

After uninstalling all Line6 drivers and HXEdit, try turning OFF Core Isolation:

Settings>Privacy&Security>Device Security>Core Isolation Details>Local Security Authority Protection=OFF

Try to install HXEdit again and if that doesn't work turn CI back ON and open a support ticket.

Ask if HXEdit is compatible with that processor.

You can also try opening a chat with a Microsoft Support person to ask about the Update problem.

Sometimes those syatem updates just take a long time.

25H2 took FOREVER on both of my i7 machines. After an hour or so I went out for a run, went shopping, and two hours later when I got home it was FINALLY installing!

SLOWLY!

No Fractal, but I'm 99.9% sure that the AES/EBU is just the hardware, the actual function is Line6 specific.

This is a user-to-user support forum. Nobody from L6 hangs out here.

Try posting your request here:

Digital & Modeling Gear | The Gear Page

The head honchos are frequent posters there.

On 11/29/2025 at 7:52 PM, themetallikid said:

Your saying to uninstall/reinstall which driver the Helix?  or the USB 2.0 audio one that windows seems to favor for everything?   

 

I'm saying to uninstall/ re-install everything Line 6, BUT...

I had a little more time to look at your screenshot of your Device Settings.

Before I make any other suggestions, a couple of questions:

What is your Lenovo's FULL model #? Processor model?

When you got it, did you perform ALL of the available Windows updates?

That means rebooting and re-checking Windows Updates until there were no more updates to install on two or more successive reboots?

Did you then install all of your other (non Line 6) applications?

What applications did you install?

Are you backing up all of the relevant (to those applications) data directories to OneDrive or elsewhere in the cloud?

Are you using ANY antivirus/malware programs other than Windows Defender?

Did you uninstall whatever crapware that the Lenovo came with pre-installed?

A screenshot(s) of your Startup settings - SETTINGS>APPS>STARTUP - could be helpful here.

I know, that's a lot of questions and you might not understand why they are relevant, but there is no logical explanation for why a brand new Win11 system should be as hosed as yours seems to be, and before I make any further suggestions I need to know these things so that I don't make things worse.

TBH - depending upon your answers to the above, my best advice MIGHT be to restore it to the condition it was in when you took it out of the box, then come back for advice on how to proceed. But that could be painful and very time consuming. I've been using Windows since before there was Windows (DOS) and if it's not necessary...

On 11/29/2025 at 1:25 PM, govtmule said:

Don’t know why it’s just occurring to me to make this request but here goes.

something that I would personally find incredibly useful is if the switching mode (PRESET, STOMP, SNAP, STOMP/SNAP, SNAP/STOMP, etc) could be changed/assigned per preset. Some presets I want all snaps… others I want stomp/snap. Not much missing from these devices but this would absolutely streamline my setup. 

Try here:

(6) Helix 3.9 Wishlist | The Gear Page

Sounds like the next step is the complete driver uninstall/reinstall. Not to be debby downer and not sure it’s relevant, but I’m my family’s Windows support tech. My sister had a Lenovo laptop, and it was a royal pita from day one. Replaced with a Dell, no problems. My older i7 laptop is an HP, not even technically Win11 compatible, no problems. Also, if this is a new laptop with a factory Win11 installation, you may ultimately wind  up doing a clean Windows installation. Worst case, but try the driver uninstall/reinstall first.

On 11/29/2025 at 7:54 AM, themetallikid said:

From troubleshooting with help from TGP as well, I think I know what the problem is, I cannot get it to recognize Helix as an audio device.  I have installed the drivers (windows says the Windows USB 2.0 driver is the best for this device when choosing Helix Audio in the device manager).  When I go into the sound settings and try and choose the output device I have 'speakers' only.  I do not get any other options.   When I have device manager up and plug in the USB cord to Helix, I see these two items pop up.  The 'other devices - Msg Pipe' and Helix Audio.  I have updated the driver automatically and get the message that drivers are up to date, when I manually try and choose the driver from the windows>program files>line6>folders where the drivers install to, it tells me the Windows USB Audio 2.0 'best driver for your device is already installed'.

I think thats the issue, but I dont know how to correct that.   

Never seen any of that.

I’ve also noticed that sometimes I’ll get the No Device message and if I disconnect the cable, pause a beat or two then reconnect that fixes it. Just something else to try before you do the whole uninstall thing.