panaman

they kept the end-of-march deadline for the x (barely) , makes me pretty confident it wont be long now

unless you have your tones backed up securely, i dont advise to download modelpack tones to old edit and firmware versions. after a closer look at the patch: there is an x where the name of the amp usually is in the kcd, and the patch is shown as dual amps on the pod while displaying as single path in edit even after synchronizing and reloading.

i thought i couldnt since the firmware and edit software for the non-x models arent out yet. i did download the customtone Marshall AFD just now. when transferring to the 500hd the amp goes blank, but any other (older) amp can be selected. great.

since credit cards are not all that common in my country, i had intended to ask a creditcardholder friend to help me with the payment. does this license manager scheme mean i have to have the pod connected when/while purchasing the packs?

global eq? who wants everything to sound the same? anyways, says above its supposed to work on the spdif. even when spdif is set to dry inputs?

they are smarter than that and let the users do the job fir free. wonder what will happen if i download a model pack tone from customtone into a not yet updated unit, will it default to a different amp? might be a good idea to start a new category on customtone.

if you like the trails you could use a footswitch to bypass the loop and set the fx loop return level to zero with the same footswitch

the 2 wires in the xlr are + and - of 1 mono signal. according to your mixers manual, its 1/4 inputs are balanced and can also take unbalanced mono signals. so 2 plug adapters from xlr ==> 1/4" `will work. connect pod xlr to channel1 and ch.2. pan them left and right for stereo or both center for mono. or connect pod 1/4" L+R outs to channel1 and ch.2. pan them left and right for stereo or both center for mono. your audio box appears to be mono. pan both your mixer channels to one side and take that output to the audiobox. using the audio box will introduce additional latency. the pod can also be used as a audio interface instead, without the 2 external devices.

the vocoder should be made to be able to use other inputs, not just mic only. mine kinda works: if on (and its mix parameter at 100), there is no sound from the guitar until the mic receives a signal. but with everything incl. mic level on the rear panel) maxed, i cannot get a strong enough signal from my mic, the vocoder just slightly opens the guitar signal path. it is a dynymic mic, which you probably have if the vocals work fine. to me it sounds more vca than vcf, something like the growler. vocoder may not be the best way to describe it

sure hope the eq will be switchable. and if it is, there must be extra dsp free. 5band eq with lo and hi cut might take a little over 4% hopefully

if you put the mixer after the last stereo effect and pan everything to one side it will save 1 effects slot. there are more outputs on the pod: spdif and headphones obviously, but also the fx loop. while many including myself feel it may introduce additional latency and noise, you cant beat the versatility. its like a y-adapter anywhere in the chain. in fact the latency and noise should probably be about the same as that of the main outs (not using and not counting the fx loop return a/d-ing which is not used in this scenario). unless they used a cheaper solution for the fx loop. fx loop mix needs to be set to zero, send to 0,0 (100%). fx loop send doesnt seem to be mono though (fx loop return L can be used as mono). fx loop can be put into a dual path. then with mix set to 100 or 1 path muted in the mixer you can get 2 really independent stereo signals out. and it doesnt care about combo or studio settings.

i havent seen the op mention using a different set of headphones, they could make a great antenna. the hum you hear could be a demodulated hf signal. since xlr jacks are balanced (to avoid ground loops) it may be a better idea to use any other jack on the pod for grounding. i dont believe the ground/lift switch is for the xlr at all, they are balanced and dont need it, it is for the guitar in, try that rather than grounding which i wouldnt recommend at all. try different z settings. try aux in make sure the mic input is not turned up if the pod is sitting on the floor in the middle of the room, chances are the cables from the ceiling lights in the room below are right below the pod or yourself. this close they can induce hum easily. you need to empty your mind. the hum is coming from your brains. you want to enter an alpha state of mind where the hum gradually turns into ommmmm

i wish the s/pdif out could be anywhere in the chain, kind of like the fx send loop, but without taking up any effect slot. any1 else think this could be useful and worth a feature request? seems to me it shouldnt make much of a difference to the dsp where in the chain it is taken from, since it can already be at the beginning or end. i could be wrong though. the benefits are mainly for the reampers, but also for checking out the waveform before and after each stage in the chain, to see where that clipping really occurs. others could probably argue the same should go for the usb audio too, and why not?

how are these amp packs going to be paid for? online purchase only, or from my authorized dealer? how were the xt packs distributed at the time-?

midi starts to count fro zero to 255, meaning patch 00 is the 1st patch, number one. if patches (presets) are arranged in groups of 4, 1a is number one, 1d is 4. 2d is 8. 9b is 34=8x4 +2 you have to do the computation n-1 yourself any suggestions for a free or demo soft to change the pods parameters automatedly? a midi mapper or sequencer or both?

there should be no need to replace the uart chip if only a pin or the middle plastic is broken on the usb, which is a mechanical problem. in theory, the usb 5v line is shortproof (regulated current source, 500mA), while the data and clock lines are protected by resistors. unless L6 chose to not follow the general specs). desoldering the jack is not as easy as it may look in the video. the copper ground pads are extensive, their supply lines dissipate the heat from the soldering iron all over the mainboard. it usually takes an additional hot air soldering iron to get the pins anywhere near the temperature where the solder will start to flow, especially on 2 sided or multilayered boards. i would suggest to cut and disconnect the inner 2 pins at the rear of the jack, route the 4 signals (5 incl. shield) to a small fixed grid style board, glue that to the inside of the cabinet, then cut the plug from a regular female usb cable (from an old printer maybe) and solder the ends to the grid board. you should use a meter to figure which cable goes where. make sure to use a strain relief clamp. easy fix giving you an external usb extension. apply precautions like unplugging and statics protection

you could always midi connect the pod to pc and use a midi mapper, translator or even daws like cubase where you can apply conditions or formulae to the midi data.

i have to take it from the pros. i like it already. glad you brought this up. too bad the manual couldnt be more specific or even helpful. still, for any analog mod sources, the analog expx in is easy enough to handle and inexpensive to hook up. my uneducated guess; wouldnt it take less dsp to midi-control a parameter directly rather than controlling it with the exp and assigning that to the parameter i checked, the exp2 shows on the assign page even if none connected. testing the midi i`ll have to wait til the weekend.

i read up on the midi functionality, the manual clearly states for midi in: midi control message 1 and 2 can change the assignment of the pedals, not it`s values. you can also not set any values of effects or amp controls. all there is is looper control and footswitch assignment and toggling. that i call switching capability only. for midi out: The EXP1 and EXP2 pedal controls can be assigned to each send one MIDI CC with a definable Value Range, which allows you to sweep a variable parameter on your target device. that is used to control other devices that do have full midi implementation. its poor compared to a full midi implementation, but better than nothing. could be handy in combination with my project though. i`ll have to check how many times per second the pedal assignment can be changed over midi, if its fast enough this could be really useful like a multiplexed modulation input. thanks for pointing that out.

thats right: its as invasive as plugging in the external pedal. that plug could hurt that pod. you can trust me though: im not going to mess with your inputs. ever. or you could ask someone whoreallyknowsathingor2 if they think there is any risk involved as far as it went today, you could have it deleted by an op

secret modulation input revealed open up the pod to a whole new world of modulation! (without necessarily having to open the pod) first, the obvious: i`m happy with the pod as is. the pod has plenty modulation built in already: - almost all effects have their independent modulator/LFO with speed and depth settings. - mic input can modulate the vocoder - internal and external pedal can be assigned to almost everything. these are all fine and can go a long way. however, there is mostly no LFO waveform setting, and they cannot be linked or synchronized. far as i know, midi is poorly implemented in the pod hd series and basically has switching functionality only. if you are like me and like to get a little more experimental (and have some experience with soldering), read on: i will be taking it in small steps starting from non-invasive and going on to daring/hazardous. its not too hard, really. cost is marginal, compared to the reward: a few $ or € will have you connecting extra modulation with very little effort. . possible modulation source: - modulation output from anything providing a CV (control voltage) or pwm like synths, sequencers etc. - midi to cv interface (lets you freely draw the modulation curve in your daw, how cool would that be? just imagine!), over midi or usb. wish the edit program could be automated by a vst host, changing modulation target. - dedicated modulation source, like Lfo section of older modular analog synths, e.g. formant system (which is what i am using, extended version with 4 lfo, some 20 dip switches and mixing stage, 16 outputs), circuitry is not all that complicated. 1 quad opamp per lfo does it, can easily be expanded/modified. documentation is available. sections are independent. link: http://www.sequencer.de/forumsynth/forumsynth.html#formant any other lfo will do, results may vary. ________________________________________________________________________________________ now, the disclaimer: please excuse my english, not my 1st language. always pull the plug when messing with electrical appliances. anything you do to or with your pod is at your own risk, please dont blame me. things can go wrong. you have been warned. if in doubt, dont get started. get a savvy friend to help you or a second opinion. for all of the below, i have tried to make sure things are failsafe: even in a worst case scenario, they may not work but should not do any damage or adversely affect the pod permanently either. (if applied properly. only you can do the damage. people in Fukushima may have a different attitude towards failsafe, but were not dealing with rocket science here). where there is a risk i will warn. one real danger is probably from statics at the pod input and semiconductors in general, so always keep everything on the same outlet, which will also help reduce general noise issues. plug away before switching on (just a recommendation. i know noone really does it). in case of EXP2, you do need to plug in before powering up, else it wont be recognized. if the modulators cannot be disabled it may help to bring the pedal to heel position which will short any parallel input. try to stay grounded, especially when opening the pod. same goes for your soldering equipment. the exp in a/d does not detect the pedal`s ohm value directly. instead, a current is fed into the pot resulting in a voltage which can easily be converted. the pedal 2 input expects voltages from roughly 1.75V toe to 0.0V heel position. see if your modulation source sends output of > 5V, or negative output. resistor and pot values may need to be adjusted, or some op amps and/or diodes may need to be added to make up or level output range. these will follow in the more advanced parts of this article. always use strong diodes like 1n4007, they will be able to handle any malfunction or overload. i will be using 1 diode in reverse which will direct any voltage below -0.7V to ground, and 2 or 3 diodes forward in series to cut any voltage above 1.x to 2.1V. alternatively, a single 1.5 - 2.x V zener diode could do both, but isnt as sturdy. the diodes in turn are being protected by resistor(s) where needed. if your modulation source is not adjustable, it may hit the ceiling and floor given by these diodes, making changes to resistors necessary so the mod signal stays within bounds. all below non-invasive steps (without removing the pull up resistor inside the pod) are a compromise due to the low ohm pedal pot. they can either be plugged into the pod hd pedal 2 input as standalone or with the pedal 2 attached in parallel or series. a simple y-adapter will let you use modulation and pedal in parallel, else the modulation input and circuitry could be fitted inside the pedal 2. The EXPx a/d has its limitations. LFO frequencies > 10Hz will not work and may give unexpected results (artefacts) due to the low sample rate of the conversion, 500x users might get better results due to dsp headroom please note: pedal calibration of the internal pedal may require to temporarily remove below options except where explicitly stated) if the modulation source cannot be muted. there is no pedal calibration for EXP2. removal is easy for all non-invasive options please note the difference between pod and pot: where pod is the pod hd, pot is a potentiometer. there are 2 kinds of pot mentioned here: the actual pedal pot and a pot to limit/set the modulation voltage or set the current for a led, op-amp or fet. since i dont have access to a pod hd X model, i can only assume the pedal input circuitry hasnt been changed much. not sure if it has a EXP2 input at all in general, any device and brand with a pedal or other mod input can be used with these circuits, with some changes to resistor values. __________________________________________________________________________ roadmap: non-invasive, input modulation via EXP2, using: LDR resistor/capacitor op-amp invasive: double your new modulation input capabilities: all above measures can be translated to apply for internal pedal 1 just the same. use EXP1 simultaneously and independently by giving it an extra input jack (or rewire one existing jack you wont use otherwise) remove pull-up from EXP1 and EXP2, making it easier to level your modulation source to the pod EXPx a/d range. to do: diagrams and schematics ______________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________ 1) non-invasive options: for starters, the external pedal 2 input EXP2 is well suited, except for its low ohm value. the pod feeds a current into the pedal`s 10k pot resistor. the resulting voltage is a/d`d and that value applied to any assigned effect (max. +1.75V). setting the pedal to heel position is more or less shorting the input which is worst case, so this is an expected and legit state, no danger here. none of the procedures will actually physically short the input ever, other than the pedal in heel position. the following can be used standalone even if you dont own the external pedal, or in parallel with an existing pedal, allowing for even better control. - y-adapter: one 1.4" plug, 2 sockets can take the pedal in parallel, easily removable. - or use a cable from inside the pedal/pot with extra plug/socket as modulation input. a dummy plug/socket can be used to protect it when not in use. in this case the pot in the pedal could be used in parallel or in series. ______________________________________________________________________________ ________________ 1: using an LDR (light dependent resistor) without modulation input: really passive, for the faint of heart, no danger whatsoever. a real starter`s project with nothing required except some wire or cable with a 1/4" plug, and 1 (or more) LDR, and the soldering. optionally your 1/4" y-adapter if using the exp2 pedal in parallel, or a 10k resistor to trick the pod into thinking there`s a pedal there (in virtual toe position, if/while the ldrs are kept in the dark). LDRs are not polarized. it doesnt matter which end goes to ground, nothing to consider. in real life, ldrs need a protective resistor. i use the pull-up resistor inside the pod which feeds the exp.2 pot. LDRs are in the M-ohm range when in the dark, and can get as low as k-ohms or even less when exposed to light. the amount of light in your shady shag will not cut it though. if you have a lighting crew youre in luck, else get it in front of a strong light source and move your hand over it for shade. could be mounted on your guitar for easy reach, the mechanics are off my topic though. then the resistance can be changed by moving it in and out of the light, by moving the axe, or by dancing in front of it. since infrared is similar to light, only @ a different wavelength, the ldr will also respond to temperature changes from outside, as well as to those from the current running through it. there are some pretty good looking ldrs out there, more like gems than electronics devices. if you want more info on ldrs, there are plenty good articles on the web, with diagrams for different types. you want as lo-ohm as possible, and probably many. one thing i did a while back is use the reflector of a flashlight to collect light, mount the ldr in the position of the bulb, and stick it all to a headband. nod away while youre noodeling... advantages: absolutely foolproof, no modulation source required. no external voltage involved. 1 LDR, one wire from pedal to LDR (if it can be grounded on the other end, like the guitar, else: 2 wire), 1 10k resistor if used without the pedal in parallel. worst case: the current from the pod avalanches the ldr in which case it may be beyond recovery, shorting the exp2 input. unplug, no damage done. of course we dont expect the current to be strong enough to blow the ldr, we are on the safe side and well below the danger zone by a factor of at least >20. at low voltages, the ldr can take up to 20-30mA. in theory, ldrs will produce a voltage when exposed to light. this effect can be disregarded in this application. disadvantages: ldrs are generally hi-ohm and need a lot of light to produce like 10k or less. you may need several (or more) in parallel to get good results, below 1k ohm. results will vary and may be hard to reproduce, depending on the ambient light intensity. a lens could help to collect and focus light on it. if used standalone, you need to put a 10 k resistor in parallel to the ldr or the EXP2 input may not get recognized and switched off. you will not get full heel position zero ohms with this simple circuitry. not for the purists (the whole project isnt for you, i guess): if you are willing to add 2 capacitors, one to your guitar out and one to the other end of the guitar out, or an extra cable, the ldr could be mounted on the guitar and fed through just 1 mono or stereo cable while also taking the audio from the same cable. __________________________________________________________ 2: using an LDR with external modulation input: (the real thing) if manually modulating is not for you, while youre busy playing, here`s an equally safe way to start. using an LDR (light dependent resistor) with LED as optical interface: ldrs have been used in effects early on and still are, e.g. opto compressors, opto tremolo. they are inexpensive and reasonably reliable and come in all shapes and sizes. anything analogue could be controlled or replaced by ldr. advantages: - there is no electrical connection between the pod and the modulation source at all, only light, which cannot do any damage. very safe, as long as the separation of modulation/led input and ldr output is not compromized. even if it were, there are no dangerous voltages involved. both signal and ground are kept separate. - only few parts required: ldr, led, a couple resistors, pot, diodes, wire, jack/plug, box, optional activity led. could be built in less than an hour. box being a matchbox type housing which keeps surrounding lightsources from influencing the ldr unless intended. disadvantages: - needs a battery or other psu unless the source (the lfo, interface) is able to drive a led (20mA @ 5V`= 250 ohms. the formant lfo can. if using a usb midi cv interface, supply voltage could be taken from there for a led driver (just a little invasive, but not at the pod end.) - ldr curve is not linear - ldrs tend to be high-resistance. zero values are impossible to reach (without damaging the component: if it has zero resistance, it needs replacement). you could use 2, a dozen, or more in parallel to improve response and range. use mirrors inside the box to save leds - ldrs are temperature sensitive, a bridge type cirquit may be required for compensation, - results may vary depending on the environment and may only be poorly reproduceable circuitry is pretty much straightforward and basic: input jack from modulation source with in ground --- pot (to set operating min/max values and operating current for the led) --- resistor --- led --- source ground output jack/plug from LDR --- pod pedal 2 in pod ground to other end of ldr (polarity doesnt matter to the ldr) values of resistors and pots will depend on the source`s output resistance and voltage, and the type of ldr, since the pedal 2 cannot be calibrated in the pod. except for what is described in the following paragraph "not for the purist", the led/ldr combination has to be encapsulated to avoid any ambient light other than that from the led to affect the ldr, unless intended. you need a 10k resistor in parallel with the ldr, or the EXP2 pedal in parallel so the pod can recognize it. r4 r5 -- -- opt. 5V in )---l__l--l__l---- pot l LDR pedal r1 __ -- l r2 r3 ext. mod in )---l__l--l__l---- ---------------------------( to pod pedal 2 in I I r6 l l l l l l_ l _ _ / V ---> l l l l/ led ___ ---> l_l l_l l l l ---( to EXP2 gnd l l l l )- l l l l l l === === === ext. gnd -=- -=- pod gnd r3 is the pot in the pedal, or a 10k resistor if used without a pedal r2 is the LDR r1: a value of 200-250 ohms for each led is good for 2V to 5V input range, depending on the led type, output resistance of the mod source. pot r6 is around 100 ohms the type of led needs to be taken into consideration: leds differ in voltage (1,4 to 5V), current (10-40mA) and light intensity where green and white are probably brightest if input voltage goes below its working voltage, the led needs to be supplied (additional 5V input and resistor/pot r4, r5 required in parallel to r1). needs to be adjusted so the led will just barely be off when the input is zero or @ it`s lowest. negative input is possible/allowed. the led current needs to be in middle then, allowing to go from maximum bright to completely dark. if many ldrs are required, a light bulb may be better suited, it radiates in all directions while a led emits ln 1 direction only. bulbs tend to afterglow, further limiting max. modulation speed. diodes on the pod pedal2 input are not really necessary here, since there is no electrical connection from input to output, neither signal nor ground connection. only light passes from led to ldr as symbolized by the 2 arrows ---> the input could even be driven by an audio signal. ldrs have a typical reaction time in the milli second range. audio would be rectified by the led, the upper half of the signal ends up as an envelope at the ldr. could use a capacitor across the ldr to buffer, 100nF will do. _________________________________________________ more to come soon... if any of you are interested

are you getting stereo output when pulling it out part of the way?

for those who dont want to open their pod, i had the same problem once. just easing the plastic switch cover up some and giving it a good vacuuming did the trick, hasnt reoccured since

you could try to set the input z to a lower value, globally.

i would not flash while you dont know if it is a voltage problem, which it probably is. might leave the flash less than orderly. if you measure the 9V, be sure to have it hooked up to the pod, idle mode may not reveal problems like with a load. but if it was the psu, it would probably show as flickering or at least dimmed lcd. i could be wrong. a diode in one of the onboard voltage converters could be it. they dont work @ 60 hz though, more like >10khz. have you tried setting the hum parameter in the pod to 50 cycles, does it change the hum you experience? the setting is on page 2 of the global setup page. couldnt find it in the edit software.