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Posts posted by bjnette

  1. The recorded guitar tone can't come down the usb to have a HD patch added to it. You could mic the monitors on playback and configure a dual patch to receive the mic.


    "Using it to go into a real amp doesn't sound right as the line level coming out is not the ideal guitar impedance an amps wants; thus a reamp box to make the impedance from line level back to guitar level.


    The HDPRO has the DI in and out to make it easy but you can use the HD 500 by using a reamp box. You can DIY one if your handy otherwise get the best you can afford. Cheaper ones will add noise.

  2. Someone here said once and it is most apt, "if someone just gave you 30 amps and 99 FX to try out you'd get into a spin." Something like that.

    If you go by the presets you will be disapointed.


    The thing to do is start with a "new tone". a blank slate. try out the different amp models. The pre amp models follow when you scroll down enough.


    Pick an Amp, tweak it to your liking. Try different pickups turn your guitar volume down a bit and back up. Add an effect that sounds okay, tweak it a bit. tweak your guitar volume. Add another and tweak etc. Save your patch and label it.


    go to another new tone and pick an Amp, ad infinitum.

    • Upvote 1
  3. Locating the cause of the trouble is first up. 

    In your post you said It suddenly stopped working you can't change the setting in your computer to different speaker as PC still recognizes the POD.

    This is an indicator of a computer fault.

    Disconnect the Pod from your computer.

    Get the computer to change default to on board soundcard. 

    Use the recommended USB connection.

    Reinstall everything again Make sure you got the right version for your operating system.

    Restart your computer with POD connected.

    Should now be recognized. 

    Do not use EDIT at the same time as monitoring music, One or the other thru USB cable.

    Good luck

    Otherwise return and swap for a working model.

  4. There are advantages to the HD PRO live to but you'll need the expense of a ext pedalboard. 

    The advantages are keeping the cabling short with the HD PRO in the rack closer to
    Amps rather than cabling out on stage and back to the HD500.


    As you have to HD500 already I'd stick with it unless you can get a very decent price for it to make the switch a few hundred..

    I think the HD PRO X ins and outs are perfect for the studio too!


    I do not  have personal experience using the HD PRO recording and coming back into the unit on a reamp basis.


    While it sounds ideal to have  absolute control over a mix it can be just an inability to make tracking decisions and getting the sound your after at the recording stage. Anyway the s/pdif in out would be great for multiple guitar tracks and getting better separation in the mix. When you consider the cost of a no noise reamp box. 

    But re amp is what it says it is re amping the track via a real amp. It is still a handy tool to re create the guitar tone via the HDPRO. Perhaps Re patching is the proper term 


    You can already do much with the HD500 

    Record dry via s/pdif and send that out via the reamp box to an actual amp or two that is mic'd up or the HD500.


    That said you could do away with the HD500 all together and use a quality DI and a soft Amp sim instead. Then reamp when you got something worthy.


    In the meantime, just run the HD model you got thru and actual amp, even a mediocre one and mic it. Add to that a stereo track of the L & R XLR outs. Add to that a dry s/pdif. the trick is placing the mic so it and the XLR feed are in phase. Isolation headphones. In a pinch you can use industrial ear muffs over small headphones or ear buds.


    With isolation headphones you can select the tone on your next guitar track say lead and with a different amp with different mic it'l help separate the Line 6 sound on a different patch.


    What gets reamp'd are too distorted, too wet tracks. If every guitar is distorted to the max then combined the sound will thin out.

    If you add a Amp sim to the HD s/pdif to dirty it up a bit or wet it with reverb to your playing satisfaction while actually recording a much drier and cleaner sound from the HD you won't need to reamp. It is easy then to make the sounds work with more control in the box on delays and verbs used.


    Those HD amp models on their own are seriously good but even a touch of delay or verb distortion is fine. But you can't remove what is recorded.


    Isolation headphones can only help but are by no means as good as an isolated control room if you mic the HD thru an amp


    I can see why the HDPRO is a Studio tool.

  5. Revalver is another that supports loading in VSTs, plus it has an IR module as well..


    In all fairness the cabs and mic choices and simple EQ FX in the HD's are adequate for live use and if you want IRs when recording just turn off the cabs.

    Sure it would be nice to have, no denying it.

  6. You can work it on the PC yes, so all is not lost.

    Unfortunately it looks like the display is faulty. I doubt the firmware reinstall will fix it.But it might seeing that there are dashes across the pix you put up.

    If it is any consolation I thought the display was pretty useless on the 300 mode (my eyesight no doubt)l and best to work from EDIT software.I bought the HD500 I like the 300 so much.

    Hopefully you got it at a good price. 

    I sold mine for $AU225. It was fully operational.

  7. I am envious of your KPA purchase meambobbbo.  It is certainly been the buzz for a while and turns out to be a major Studio tool.


    KPA have put out plenty of updates and huge improvements to their FX arsenal. but at 4 times the price the HD500 is pretty good.


    In the home studio I find using with my Marshal, Fender or Peavy Valve King gives some acceptable tones.


    I have had mune for just over a year now and still loving it but I am getting used to the Line6 wash on every patch.


    You know ,  I have never tried IRs with the HD500 yet.


    Hopefully that will open up the tones a bit. 

  8. Your interface doesn't input s/ have ADAT and a Apogee proprietySMUX.

    Just make sure if it is possible to select s/pdif on the ADAT in.? If so then you can use that Video RCA 75ohm cable and connect to the device that will convert it to toslink s/pdif.

    Actually there might be a converter RCA s/pdif to ADAT you could use.

    Other wise what you mention above a  Dtgital  o Analogue (DAC)Converter

  9. You could disconnect the HD500 and go into the guitar amp input. That would be true bypass LOLOL

    What do you want to do exactly.


    Try guitar- cable-Amp-Amp send HD500 Effects return-select FX loop and put it where you like after the amp block for starters.

    Go HD500 output back into Amp FX return.


    The 4CM lets you put HD500 stomp FX  before your   Amp's preamp and Rack FX ,in your Amps FX loop.

  10. Try resetting and firmware update. All worth a try.

    It seems you might be stuck with it if your friend bought it for you.

    You did mean you sent a message to V sell. You didn't send them the unit right?

    caveat emptor google it!

  11. sounds like you need a support ticket.

    I put the link up btw as you said you tied it per the manual in first post.The link show the correct way to do it.If you have tried numerous times you need a support ticket.

  12. Ccustomtone patches will wreck havoc with your levels.

    But as above is the way to do it. Ideally at performance volume.

    As there is plenty of space to save patches in sets, You can have a set or two for live and different sets for recording and another for patch creation and only upgrade a patch to your sacred live sets once it has proven itself so too for custom tone downloaded patches.


    Don't forget to Save your patches.


    The trick is having patches work at a consistent level and tonality from patch to patch and from each FX on to FX off to patch to patch.


    It is alot of work to get it as good as you can nut a few time thru your set list.


    What works safe to start is duplicating a few amps that you like with your live setup and working around those rather than a huge array of amp choices.


    I too use the amp mixer mostly but also check the amp sub menu pages as some amps default the sub master at 50%.

  13. Actually the answer is conflicting. Low ohm phones can be driven easily by a portable device. Higher need more power to get volume.


    These are good tracking headphones.

    They are isolated and come in handy both for live use and monitoring a mic'd source.

    essential for recording musician.

    These are affordable but not the most accurate and are only 33ohms so they are loud.

    There is a cheaper version


    For mixing, if money is no option get the best you can afford that aligns with the recommended specs.

    Pushing above their weight are the Audio Technica  Professional H'Phones


    There are better; but,  ideally you use studio monitors and use headphones for close listening to reverb and FX tales in a mix.

    What you want in Headphones is the same in Studio monitors. You want a flat a response as possible across the audio spectrum so you can hear what is going on. You don't want headphones designed to make your music sound better with hyped bass etc on most consumer phones and speakers.


    As already mentioned with pro headphones what you get on the HD using them to make patches will go a long way to having a tone that relates in a live PA situation with a little adjustment to suit. 

    Thru an Amp it wont translate as well and it is best to get that tone matched with the Amp rather than phones.

    • Upvote 1
  14. Looks like a great subject for a comparison video.

    You may well be right and there is some component design improvement.

    I do agree that the presets are a liabillity to what is possile with the HD models and that creating a patch 

    will get you your tone.

  15. Yeah dust is a likely culprit. I recommend compressed air in a can or a vacuum cleaner attachment to get dust and dirt from outta there. It only takes a bit of dirt under it to prevent these types from working.

    Ideally do this first and then the contact cleaner etc as scotty says.

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