mrguitartrader

I recorded all inputs for the whole show and spent a most productive two hours tweaking and saving a better mix. I just can't get over the separation that the presets give you. Best live mixer I have ever used.

The channel solos did notwork as I expected. Is it possible that they only go to the headphone buss?

Ok, big gig in front of 1000+ people now out of the way (the people were there, whether they were listening is a completely different question!), so I finally had a chance to open up the HD 500 to look at those 2 reluctant switches that have been annoying me.

 

Removed the back screws, slid the floor slightly to one side and back again to access to the inside. As per the video the actual switches are on a pair of PCBs that the run the length of the unit just under the mechanical switches - these only contain the electrical switches and LEDs.  Two nuts hold down either end, but the main connection is actually a three pronged clip that forms part of the mechanical switch and prevents the electrical switch from moving.

 

Just by looking it is obvious that there is no point at all in spraying contact cleaner into the mechanical switches without opening the unit - there might be some value in spraying a little lubricant from the inside pointing outwards just to reduce mechanical noise, but the chances of contact cleaner actually getting to the micro switch from outside is zero - unless you flood the whole thing which is just silly.

 

I checked the micro switches and the mechanical switches and individually they all worked fine. So I blew around everything with some Air and then did as was suggested and removed the little black plastic bits, then reattached the PCBs, pressed a few switches and tested I could hear the micro switches go click, then turned the HD500 over and powered up into diagnostic mode and ran the switches test. This failed with 5 switches that didn't engage - ok it is now worse than before.

 

Turning it back over and looking at the ones that were not working I could see that the spring had a significant gap before it would touch the micro switch, so I took the PCBs off again and using needle-nose pliers (round profile) stretched all the springs; they are pretty tough and don't stretch easily.  Then I put the PCBs back on again and repeated the diagnostics - this time it failed with 4 switches.

 

There is still a gap between springs and micro-switches, so I put all the little black bits back again and this time it passes the diagnostics with ease.

 

That is except for the Expression Toe switch which I have never been able to work without standing on it - during the diagnostics I could get it to switch with some pressure and flexing of the frame.  So I had a look at that too:

 

This is not a micro-switch and the reason why it is hard to switch is simply the mechanical part on the bottom of the expression pedal not making contact - so how to change things so it does work with less pressure?  I looked at moving the PCB closer but this is not possible, I looked at extending the mechanical bit under the pedal, but the switch looked as though it might be an electrical circuit being completed by the expression pedal so I couldn't use anything non-conductive.  In the end - and with much more confidence about it because I had the unit open - I took a flat file, and with the HD500 upside down carefully removed a millimetre or so from the rubber block under the expression pedal and carefully shook the filings out of the pedal sideways.  Then I gave it all another blow with the air and did the full diagnostics test - this time the expression toe switch engaged with reasonable pressure.

 

It was then just a case of putting the floor of the unit back on and running the expression pedal calibration; and everything is working - I would say just like new, but actually it is better than new because I can use the Expression Toe switch now and never bothered before.

 

So my recommendation for an HD500 is that switches that won't engage are probably down to compressed springs and are very simply fixed by disassembling and stretching the springs slightly - you will only need the correct size screwdriver, socket spanner and needle nose pliers to fix this and some Air to blow away any dust in the switch mechanicals, and a flat file if you want to fix the expression pedal switch. 

 

You do not need contact cleaner inside an HD500 except if the Pots are going scratchy (not sure how you would notice this except perhaps by the values jumping). A very light oil (even WD40!) can quieten down the switch mechanisms but spraying anything into the switches from outside is pointless.

 

It may not be the case for every production batch, or for the HD500X, but for my unit I struggle to see how the micro-switches could be damaged by too much pressure and there was no need to remove the black plastic bits.  Other production batches may have had changes to the tolerances of the components, and if your switches engage just by looking at them then physical contact may be being made too early in the mechanical switch range and I would consider removing the black bits before the micro-switches are d

I guess our problems were different. My switch would eventually engage, or disengage depending how many times i pressed it. The contact cleaner worked well. No problems for the past few gigs and many rehearsals. I have not taken the mechanisms apart, but can vouch for the contact cleaner from the top method if your switch is working intermittently.

J

Just wanted to say...  :)

We played our first gig with the M20D, Easiest setup I ever had. I set all inputs before. Did the auto trim thing, did a quick mix and then done. It should be even easier next time. Everyone raved about the sound. The presets definitely are excellent at separating all of the elements. Wow, that is great gear.

I got the wifi to work right away with an old iPad, the USB-Ethernet and an ancient wifi router that serves DCHP. Everything exactly as advertised. No wonder I have so much line 6 gear. 

It is rare to find gear that exactly does what you want. Excellent job Line 6. Hope it works for many years.

Cheers,

Jim

Cool. We have 8 outs on the TD30. I think someone who hits things and counts has to much to worry about than setting the levels of the kit.  :) We have done several gigs with the Roland VDrums. It is really awesome to have drums with a volume knob. I have setup initially as Kick Snare HH and Ride and will use stereo directs for Toms and another for Cymbals. I'm sure we can get a tight sound.

Cheers

The simple answer is yes but really if you are careful about how you mic up from gig to gig you'll find you have very little to tweak at all. We've moved away from micing our amps and di them into the PA, using the onstage cabs more as monitors than anything else. We've also ditched the live kit and gone electronic, wouldn't suit your rock band but we don't generally have to re trim just eq a little. You can then save the "setup", we do it by venue name, and then when you re-visit that venue you just load your setup from last time and you have minimum tweaking and quick sound checking. Read the manual again and checkout the section on "scenes". These are saved within "setups" and allow you to have effects, eqs, etc relative to individual songs. Brilliant!  The M20 is gonna make your job a whole lot easier but in truth if you get more accurate about your micing, then the whole deal will get easier. 

I was wondering which presets you use on your electronic drums? Do you use individual outputs from your drum module, or just the main out. I have to mix a td20 kit in a few weeks and wonder what others have experienced?

Cheers

Thanks for the comments.Your videos sound great. Equipment does not get in the way of your great performance in any way. I rented an M20D for a video a few years back and was impressed with it. We are looking for gear that will allow us to setup for a gig in the tiny amount of time that we are allowed these days between the supper crowd and the partiers so this should fit the bill nicely. I am always a little nervous with the newer electronics when it comes to sturdiness.

Cheers

Hello.

Thought I would ask the group... there are a couple of M20D's in my area selling at a significant discount. Can anyone point out any common problems that I should look out for. I have browsed the forum and see there are some input issues, some over heating issues. I may just buy a new one, but my experience is you can have just as many problems with new gear as used.

Thanks in advance for any helpful hints.

Jim

How much!  5oz spray can for £27.50 (over $40 US) on Amazon 

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Caig-DeOxit-Contact-Cleaner-Spray/dp/B00A2365BI

 

Is it really that much better than this highly rated equivalent for only £7.19?

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KHE1D0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2

It was $32 CAD where I got it. I have used the generic stuff that you can get at electronics stores and spent the time and did not get the result. That price and the problem went away with no dis assembly, and I can probably fix it another 100 times seems an ok deal. As an aside, I recycled a used Peavey Bandit for shows that has major pot and switch issues. I have dis assemled and sprayed (generic crap) 4 times. One more with the deoxit and the problem was gone. It does leave some residue on the HD500 so have a paper towel handy. I have no experience with the brand you mentioned so I can't really comment.

Good luck. The switch problem hopefully goes away for you.

Jim

Sprayed contact cleaner on the top of each switch, pressed them several times and voila! Just like new. PS Get the good stuff like DEOXIT. it is worth the extra money.

Installed without a hitch. I did all the software first, then the USB and finally the firmware. Was not interested in updating the patches. I will check my patches in the morning and ensure the sounds are normalized, then test the global equalizer. Then get the new amp models installed and dive into programming with the new models.

Many thanks to Line 6 for this update. Your continued support is much appreciated.

Jim

Thought I would share...

I move my HD-500 all the time and wanted it protected, and also easily set up. After scouring the internet for solutions, I decided to get a flight case. I order this model: http://www.rondomusic.com/product7514.html

It does add to weight, but being pre-wired it is only two cables from operational. Please do your diligence and check measurements before ordering as specs may have changed. So far so good.

In order to gain access to all of the rear jacks and outputs, I determined that the floor needed to be raised by 1/2 inch. I bought 5/8 plywood and cut it to the shape of the case. The final shape of the plywood floor had to be planed to ensure a secure fit.

I painted it black and drilled holes to fit the rubber feet. The unit is secured with velcro tape. I installed a power bar with a detachable power chord and my G30 using the same velcro tape and used cable grommets to secure cabling.

Results have been fantastic. I am portable, I only take the guitar and HD500 for rehearsals and add an amp when we do shows where i need a stage source. Been very pleased and hope this helps someone.

Here are some pics.

Thought I would share...

I move my HD-500 all the time and wanted it protected, and also easily set up. After scouring the internet for solutions, I decided to get a flight case. I order this model: http://www.rondomusic.com/product7514.html

It does add to weight, but being pre-wired it is only two cables from operational. Please do your diligence and check measurements before ordering as specs may have changed. So far so good.

In order to cain access to all of the rear jacks and outputs, I determined that the floor needed to be raised by 1/2 inch. I bought 5/8 plywood and cut it to the shape of the case. The final shape of the plywood floor had to be planed to ensure a secure fit.

I painted it black and drilled holes to fit the rubber feet. The unit is secured with velcro tape. I installed a power bar with a detachable power chord and my G30 using the same velcro tape and used cable grommets to secure cabling.

Results have been fantastic. I am portable, I only take the guitar and HD500 for rehearsals and add an amp when we do shows where i need a stage source. Been very pleased and hope this helps someone.

Here are some pics

It would be most excellent if we could have separate output types assigned to separate outputs i.e. have direct set to the xlr output and 412 set to the 1/4"outputs allowing us to send full range to the xlr.

I just want to say Thank You Dear Lord and Line 6!

This is awesome!

***From a previous post earlier*** I was wrong! And I don't mind admitting I am wrong when Line 6 does such an amazing release like this!

Thank you for hearing the people! Can't wait to hear the remastered JCM 800 and thanks for the addition of the Bass Pack.

Are these new BASS amp modellers or model from the XT pro line?

I will buy it all just to encourage further development, and to enjoy even more line 6 modelling awesomeness!