Schmalle

It sounds like you're having a very frustrating experience! Here is a rewritten version of your issue that is clearer and easier for others to understand:

Line 6 Helix Floor Connection Issues with HX Edit

I'm having persistent connection issues with my Line 6 Helix Floor and the HX Edit software on both Mac and Windows operating systems.

The main problem is that the Helix will not reliably connect to HX Edit via USB.

• I've tried multiple USB cables, including another known-good cable, but the issue persists.

• When a connection is established, it is unstable. It typically stays connected for only a few minutes before disconnecting. This connecting/disconnecting cycle repeats several times.

• Glitching and Freezing: While it is briefly connected, the Helix Floor unit itself (and likely the HX Edit display) will start glitching and freezing.

I'm unable to resolve this and I've already tried to open a support ticket with Line 6, but the system is not allowing me to submit it.

Is that a fair rewrite?

Concerning the support ticket problem, how did you realize that the system doesn't allow to submit it?

Could you tell what specific Mac and Windows operating systems you are using (e.g., macOS Sonoma, Windows 11) and what troubleshooting steps you've already taken (besides changing the cable)? This information might help in suggesting a solution.

Does this occur without connecting to your Mac?

Make sure to set Global Settings > Preferences > EXP 2/EXT AMP to EXT AMP.

Not enough information. Listen to that track and / or take a look at the Helix patch that was used. 

(answer to the OP)

On my Stomp one foot switch's touch function was defective. It was a faulty TVS diode (GG040205170N2P) on the foot switch board.

Because it's a tiny smd part (0.6 mm x 1.0 mm) it's not easy to replace it using a soldering iron. With a heat gun and some soldering paste it's easier.

You can also order a replacement foot switch board from one of the Service Centers.

On 10/19/2025 at 8:53 PM, John_Copley said:

Hello, so basically I love the sound of stereo, I just think it sounds bigger, with greater detail and separation. I can't be taking two amps to gigs so Ive bought a Roland JC40. If I tell you what setup I want, if you could maybe explain how this all works that would help me greatly. 

 

So basically I'll go into both inputs on the Roland. Now I understand if I just use one path, stereo effects will be stereo etc and that's great. Now if I want to get more granular I'll need to understand path A and B, the Y split settings and the mixer settings.

 

I want to run wet dry for some songs, so I get run path A as dry in stereo but how do I get path B just coming out of the right speaker? do I do it at the Y Split or the mixer? what happens if I use a stereo effect on that path? or is it just mono? 

 

NOW my major confusion is I like my ping pong delay ping ponging between both speakers, now would I would that path A? how would that effect running path B in mono? is there any other way to do this? 

 

I can make it sound nice, just want to understand it more and give myself options of just having the gain in one speaker or just the wet effects. Any tips or help me understand when to use mono or stereo blocks and how this effects what goes to my amps speakers would be ace! 

 

THANk-YOU

Think of paths as stereo cables. They can carry stereo signals (different signals on L and R) or dual mono signals (same signal on L and R). Stereo blocks are stereo in and stereo out. Mono blocks mix both input channels, process it and provide a dual mono signal on their output. Legacy blocks vary in behavior and can be mono or stereo or mono in / stereo out.

The mixer block is where you decide how the path signals are mixed and paned (how loud and where in the stereo panorama the signals are put). E.g. if you want Path A on the left side and Path B on both equally you set A Pan to 100% left and B Pan to Center.

The first 21 default presets are FX presets.

On 10/9/2025 at 9:12 PM, John_Copley said:

Thanks for your help, seem to have the fundamentals down. Ive done the 4CM with the extra cable to connect HX FX Out R with the Orange's FX Return R. 

 

On the HX effects I've stuck all my gain in, then the stereo 1/2 FX LOOP (which brings the volume down, even at +6db?) then I go ping pong delay which is stereo ping ponging between speakers, then I put the reverb on path B with the Y splitter before it with A set central and B set fully right. Then I think a mixer comes up at the end, not totally sure what Im doing with that so keep it as both paths at 0db and A central and B right.

 

Does this sound about right? putting the reverb on path B makes it slightly noisy, anything I'm doing wrong or could do better I'd appreciate it. 

 

Imagine the paths (represented as lines) are stereo cables. Sometimes a stereo signal travels through it, sometimes a dual mono signal.

If you use both Paths (A and B) you have two stereo paths. The mixer block defines how two stereo signals are mixed.

In your case the signal on path A set central will leave the mixer block on L and R while B set fully right will leave the mixer block on R only.

Stereo blocks process the L and R input unmixed and put out a stereo signal.

Mono blocks mix L and R input and put out a signal that is the same on L and R (dual mono).

"putting the reverb on path B makes it slightly noisy"

Can you describe the noise? Which reverb do you use?

The Line 6 HX One has 128 preset locations but over 250 effects models.

Use the 4 cable method (4CM) and add a fifth cable to connect HX FX Out R with the Orange's FX Return R.

On

On 10/8/2025 at 4:31 PM, davidc2478 said:

Just looking for insight and ideas. 

One nice way to use reverbs like the Searchlight is to dial it in more on the suttle side and then add a Heliosphere Delay after it for the ridiculous lush infinity part.
Here is a quick demo: dry -> added Searchlight -> added Heliosphere.  (forgive the shouty sound of the lead guitar part)

Strymon is a company and not a reverb.

I know you know that. This is just to nudge you into being more specific and point to concrete sound examples that you want to replicate.

What you describe as "boxy" and "chorused" is likely the phase canceling between direct and effect signal due to the latency (~2 ms) of the Stomp. The parallel FX loop of the Powerball is the cause for this. Set the Powerball's FX Loop Balance knob all the way to Effect to turn it into a serial FX loop.

Alternatively only use time based effects (delay, reverb, chorus, phaser, flanger etc) with Mix set to 100% after the HX's FX Loop block. In other words: make sure there is no direct signal that can cause phase issues in combination with the direct signal of the Engl's FX loop when it's used as a parallel loop.

Well, the Q Filter is an option if you want to tweak. I used this block as my wah (Type: LoPass) until we got the Teardrop Bass Q.

If you need a starting point I tried to approximate the UK Wah 846 and came up with these settings:

• Freq: controller assigned to the expression pedal with Min 45%, Max 85%
• Q: controller assigned to the expression pedal with Min 75%, Max 35%
• Gain: 10%
• Type: Bandpass
• Mix: 100%
• Level: +1 dB

It's reasonably close but has less bass, so to get closer I'd have to add a bass boosting eq block.

Yes. Select the expression pedal (instead of a footswitch) in Bypass Assign for the Wah block (and other blocks if you like).

Deactivate Global Settings > MIDI/Tempo > MIDI PC Tx to prevent your Stomp from automatically sending MIDI PC (program change) messages when you change patches - because otherwise the sent program number is always the patch number.

Instead use Command Center's Instant Command to send a BankPC command via MIDI.   

This is possible and easy to do! 

As a first attempt try the Tilt EQ as a first block to equalize between guitars. It can act as an amp like treble control to darken or brighten up the resonse of an amp. Start with Center=1 kHz, adjust Tilt, then fine tune Center and use Level to adjust the guitar output levels if needed.

Your example is basically a variant of the 4-Cable Method (see in the manual). Cabling:

guitar -> HX In L

pedal Out -> HX In R

HX Out L -> amp input

HX Out R -> pedal In

The loop stays on when the effect is bypassed in this configuration and you can change the position pre or post per patch.

I can't open your attachments.

You're probably encoutering phasing artifacts. If you mix in the FX loop signal partially this can happen, use Mix at 100%.

On 9/23/2025 at 11:54 PM, rd2rk said:

 

Just for my personal info, what method is the PV using that makes it incompatible? It appears to be simple TRS switching, as I don't see any voltage supply to the FS which uses a single TRS cable...

The Peavey switches channels using a relay. The relay is engaged when connected to a voltage. Peavey uses a negative supply voltage to do that.

I don't own a Helix and haven't seen the circuit board but AFAIK Helix uses a transistor based open collector circuit to switch. I would be very surprised if this isn't done with an NPN transistor. Unfortunately to switch negative voltages you'd need a PNP transistor.

On 9/23/2025 at 7:10 PM, rd2rk said:

 

If you have the PV FS you can test what's happening with a multimeter or continuity tester.

If you don't have that, I had a quick look at the manual and it appears to me that there's separate switch jacks for the Channel/Boost functions and the Reverb/Tremolo functions. Since the required PV FS has only ONE TRS jack, that would seem to indicate that you'd need TWO footswitches to control all functions, but that would be weird.

 

If I were you, I would contact PV Support and see what they say about it. If you like the PV, the Marshall will be a very different sounding amp.

Helix's Ext Amp switching isn't compatible with the Peavey Delta Blues.

On 9/22/2025 at 6:37 PM, PeHaLine6 said:

Till now I have thought that "tip" is always related to channel switch (changes to other channel) and "ring" is related to reverb (that is just a guess).

The ring contact is for switching the FX loop in your Marshall.

When you plug a TS jack (cable) in the Marshall's F/S socket: does this engage the Marshall's FX loop? If that is the case you need a TRS cable to connect Helix Ext Amp and Marshall F/S sockets.

Use Command Center's Ext. Amp Command to do the channel switching. Program a footswitch if you want to be able to change channels while staying on a snapshot. Otherwise program an Instant Command per snapshot.

On 9/21/2025 at 3:10 AM, avrakas said:

Joining late but I'm wondering where the 1 amp spec comes from?  The OEM unit and the HX Stomp both say 3A.  Does it only draw 1 amp or less??

1 A is the rounded up figure of the measured maximal current draw of the device.

Why Line 6 choose to print "3 A" on the HX Stomp - I don't know. But it is definitely not the actual technical current requirement.