Schmalle

It depends. I'd like to eq my in-ears (Phones Out) exclusively with the Global EQ. But that's not possible right now.

It makes sense to eq your amp to your needs - to add or cut some imperfect frequencies from the amp or to adjust to the room / space your playing in.

It makes less sense to eq the PA sound with the Global EQ. That is what a mixer should do.

Low and high cuts are in the cab and IR blocks. Adjust these in a rehearsal at volume in band context.

Global EQ is never heard from the Send or USB outputs.

Split the signal late in the signal chain and put the cab block on Path B which you route to Stereo Send L/R ( manual p.19 "Setting path B's output").
Use Global Settings -> Ins/Outs -> Phones Monitor to listen to it via headphones.
 

On 4/25/2025 at 8:39 PM, theElevators said:

He always left his distortion on.  All you need is a DS-1 equivalent. Classic Distortion is a good one in the Helix, a Marshall, and a chorus.  Deez-one or whatever it's called in the Helix does not work like DS-1. 

 

Gary used the DS-1 with the following settings: tone on 9, distortion on 3. 

Gary is quoted with this statement:

Quote

I use a Boss Distortion (DS-1) on the Stratocaster. I found it’s a really good unit for my particular guitar because it complements the sound. Having gone through just about all the other distortion units available, this is the one that doesn’t make your guitar sound thin. It doesn’t take away the natural sound. It just gives the Strat a real kick up the lollipop. In fact, I have it on most of the time. I don’t use it on the Les Paul, though.

On 4/23/2025 at 10:41 AM, spiattalo said:

Just hoping someone could give me any pointers to achieve the following:

 

FS1: activates my amp's channel one via MIDI with a compressor and reverb on;

FS2: activates my amp's channel two via MIDI with a noise gate and and OD;

FS3: same as FS2, but with channel three of the amp;

FS4: same as FS3, but adds a delay, and an EQ;

FS5: same as FS4, but adds a chorus;

FS6: adds a single select effect to the (e.g. a poly pitch).

 

I would like to avoid using the up/down buttons, the above is literally all I need to have at once.

 

I thought the easier way would be by Snapshots, but I understand that I can only have four snapshots on at the same time.

 

Any suggestions?

It's four snapshots on the HX Effects so you can do:

FS1: activates my amp's channel one via MIDI with a compressor and reverb on;

FS2: activates my amp's channel two via MIDI with a noise gate and and OD;

FS3: same as FS2, but with channel three of the amp;

FS4: same as FS3, but adds a delay, and an EQ;

FS5: adds a single chorus effect;

FS6: adds a single select effect (e.g. a poly pitch).

Use Stomp Mode for this. Configure FS 1...4 via Command Center's Snapshot Commands and FS 5+6 via Bypass Assign. Configure the four snapshots to switch MIDI via Instant Commands and noise gate, comp, reverb and OD via stock snapshot bypass.

On 4/23/2025 at 1:38 PM, silverhead said:

No, you can have up to 8 different snapshots in a preset. However your list of FX may be limited by the DSP capacity. 
 

Investigate the Helix Command Centre (see manual).Perhaps you can use Instant Commands to achieve what you want by recalling different Presets rather than Snapshots, or use a combination of both if DSP in the preset becomes an issue.

It's four snapshots on the HX Effects.

Sounds like the decay of the noise gate in the input block is set so that it 'slowly' closes. Experiment with it's Decay and Threshold parameters.

Use less gain, a well-shielded guitar and remove or keep distance to noise sources (e.g. electronic devices). 

On 4/13/2025 at 5:08 AM, Traemandir said:

FOLLOWUP QUESTIONS:

1. I'm not 100% I understand what you mean when you say "You don’t need to split the path; it is already a stereo path." Is this just because the FX Loop block already splits it to stereo? I'm stuck on understanding this detail because everything I have before the FX Loop send would be mono, so in my mind jt needs to "split" or double into left and right signals at some point? But I might just be missing some context since I've never set my path to be stereo before in HX Edit.

Think of the path lines connecting the blocks as stereo cables. A stereo cable can carry a dual mono or a stereo signal.

Those two EV preamps are suspiciously low level even for Helix preamps which is a shame because they sound very good. Played into the power amp of my PV Bandit they sound great.
In general the HX preamps are 24dB tamed compared to the original circuit which is a controversial design decision and should be revisited by Line 6.

Here is my one block +24dB linear boost that you can put after the preamp:

Parametric EQ, LoGain +12 dB, LoFreq 1.6 kHz, HiGain +12 dB, HiFreq 400 Hz, Level +12 dB. Save as Favourite and call it "+24dB".

I still need to crank the EV preamps' channel volume with that but it works.

The only parameter to adjust the input gain globally is Global Settings -> Ins/Outs -> Guitar In Pad. You can use it padded for the active and non-padded for the passive pickups.

Or put a gain block first in the signal path,and use it as a boost for you "weak" passive guitar.

Or use a footswitch to dial in two different gain settings in the amp model using Controller Assign.

On 4/6/2025 at 10:54 AM, Test2018 said:

Thank you for your help. I will try the Y-Cable solution.

Another 179 Euro for another pedal seems a little too much right now...
Maybe used one day ☺️

 

Yes, that is exactly what I was talking about.

Alternatively you can open up the pedal and isolate the ring pin of the expression socket (Out 1) with some electrical tape. That's all it takes to mod the 

EP1-KP to be a SP1-L6H.

Sounds like the guitar is picking up electromagnetic noise from other devices. Sometimes this occurs when the guitar's bridge (and by extension the strings and the player) is not connected to ground (faulty wiring). Is it a single coil guitar? Is the noise level depending on your position in the room?

The Kemper EP1-KP works if you use this cabling: a (stereo) Y-adapter (TRS male -> 2x TS female) in the HX's footswitch socket. Then a TRS cable for the expression part and a TS or TRS for the switching part.

Mission Engineering offers an expression pedal for Line 6 (SP1-L6H) which also works. With that you can use a simple Y-adapter (TRS male -> 2x TS male).

The Boss FV-50H is a volume pedal that will not work as expression pedal for the HX.

I have a Donner Viper which is cheap and ok for home use. I modded it by adding a toe down foot switch. I would not recommend it if you want something sturdy for live use.  

Most certainly ground loop issues. When you connect only to USB how do you listen to the Stomp?

It's a ground loop issue. A ground loop is a wiring issue that occurs when multiple devices share multiple paths to ground which can cause unwanted noises, such as buzzing or humming. By plugging into the amp you introduce another path to ground.

It's already possible via Bypass Assign and/or Controller Assign.

The minimum volume knob on the pedal is likely causing this. Set it to it's minimal position.

On 3/22/2025 at 7:18 PM, musikman4christ said:

Hello everyone, so grateful to find this thread. I was recently blessed to trade stuff for a used HX Stomp from a brother from church. But the little black center piece from the USB C port is also broken loose. If Inwant to glue it back in there over the 4 center pins in the USB port, where do you put the crazy glue as to not impede the pins to contact the incoming pins of the USB cable?

 

Thanks to all for your support.

 

MM4C 

To minimize the risk of covering the contact pins you apply just enough super glue on the breaking point of the plastic part that broke off. Then you carefully push in the USB socket where it broke of. Ideally you apply some pressure for some time until it is dry and solid. 

If a small amount of glue accidently gets on the inside of the metal pins that's fine. It's the outer side of the pins that needs to create contact with the plug of the USB cable and it's almost impossible to cover these parts with this method.

This is kind of a blind spot of the Helix / HX units. The loop send and return seem to be designed to work as a pair and 4CM seem like an afterthought. The send and return levels should be independent for this use.

If you use Instrument on the Send then the level to the amp / Tonex is correct. If you use Line on the Send then the level to the amp / Tonex is boosted and you need to lower the FX Loop block's Send Level. This increases the signal to noise ratio compared to Instrument.

If you use Instrument on the Return then the input impedance is 1 MOhm while Line is 10 kOhm. Besides the different level the tone is sligtly different because of impedance matching. Sadites uses Line because it matches the lower impedance of the Tonex Out (which applies to most Sends on amps, too). 

You'll need to decide for a compromise - I'd go for Instrument on both FX Loops because I hear the difference in noise but it's hard for me to hear the tonal differences of the Return impedances.

Hope that helps!

The Service Centers can order one for you.

Definitely a repair situation. 

If you have a TRS extension cable available where you can open the jack you can connect the tip and the ring contact in it with some conductive material or solder. With that you would at least have the left channel's signal on both ears.

Using the 1/4" Outs with a headphones amp would also be a workaround.

Boss uses standard expression pedals which are wired differently than Line 6 ones. It's not the polarity. Line 6 only uses two pins while a standard expression pedal uses three (you need a TRS cable for those). With a bit of soldering and a TRS socket you could convert the EX 1 to work with the Boss.

You probably have a better chance to get an answer to a SY200 specific question in a Boss forum.

On 3/15/2025 at 4:15 PM, rfedeleo said:

Next question is anyone know where I could just source a new Power supply?

One explanation for this behavior would be the PTC on the power supply getting hot enough to prevent current from flowing. 

It's supposed to protect from damage and fire caused by a short circuit. A PTC gets hot when a high current flows through it which makes it much less conductive which in turn stops current from flowing. If then there is no more current flowing it cools down and becomes conductive again. 

Three possible causes: 

• the PTC is faulty / not within specs
• the close environment is heating it up 
• there actually is high current flowing and a different component is defective

This is just speculative. Also: danger high voltage.

Always go to people's funerals, otherwise they won't come to yours!