TxHCBP

Also runs on Mac OS X & OS 9. 

For anyone who works for Line6: any plans to expand to iOS?

Just bought an iPad mini and would like to be able to run Workbench HD and Spider IV Edit from it, no matter where I am. I understand I'd have to have an interface with Lightning/USB port conversion. Has anyone done this?

Don't know anything about the VDI, but the pups on my 59 are passive, as I can play those with no battery (physically) in the guitar. YMMV

Great advice above, but one thing no one seems to think of: before you change anything, save the factory settings, either one at a time (preferred) or as a bundle. It's nice to be able to roll back if you need to fix a major problem.

Remember that you have two Custom banks, with several "slots" on each, where you can store your special guitars. I don't know about others, but I don't create many custom guitars; however, I DO put the guitar models I use in the order I use them, so switching, let's say, from an LP Special to a Rick12 or National Reso for the next song is quick & painless.

WHATEVER you do, take your time, play it a LOT, and enjoy! That's what it's all about. :)

I'm with radatats on this one. I have the SpiderIV75 in my bedroom, and I can drive ANYBODY out of the house with it. I seldom crank it past about 4 (once in a long while, it goes to 5), and I'm about half deaf already, so, if your ears are any better than mine, it'll be more than you'll ever need for home. If you're taking it onstage at a medium/large venue, THEN you'll need to take the headphone out into a larger amp.

Oh! That mp3 input is great! I plug my computer into that and jam with it from iTunes, and that's the ticket to some great sound - the bee's knees! B)

 

I am not sure what you mean by just "CANCEL" the auto-download - can you do that?    Thanks for your advice and help!

The handshake idea is good, but you're right: it's one for ideascale.

Yes, you CAN cancel the auto-download. That's what i usually do.  I've (almost always) saved the previous changes in a bundle, so I just cancel the auto-d/l, load the bundle into my JTV-59, make any changes I want, then re-save the bundle. Takes less time to do all that than it takes to wait for the auto-d/l. Or you can do the same thing with any preset. Makes life a little easier. For me, anyway. Good luck and have fun with it.

Why can't L6 just model a bass on the JTV line? Love my 59, but WOULD like the ability to duplicate (or even approach) the sound of my Washburn Force 5. Or, maybe, a Fender P5.

What I've been doing (w/no HD500, but straight into amp) is 1) connect to the computer, bring up WBHD, and let it do its thing with the d/l from the JTV (59 in my case). That d/l happens only once per day/session. I make my mods and upload from the guitar to the computer, and then save the preset(s) I just changed. I listen to the results of the change; if needed, I then make the next mod and re-save it (just the preset), and then listen again. I do this until I have what I want.  I DON'T end my WBHD session until I'm finished (for the day). I sometimes tweak the adjustments I'm making several times, but only have to put up with the "Auto/Connect D/L" in WBHD the first time of the day.

I know this won't work for those of you using the HD500X, but if you're going straight to the amp, I think it's the ticket for an easy, trouble-free mod session.

edstar, while using the HD500X, you CAN just save the preset, do your WBHD session, saving just that one preset, until you're happy with it, and then, when you're ready, load the bundle, then load the 'finished' preset, and re-save the new bundle. Now, when you start your new session, just 'Cancel' the auto-download, load the bundle, and do it (your session) again. Hope this made sense (it does to me). If anything is unclear, let me know, and I'll try to clarify it.

Hope this helps.

Well, here's the problem: how long did it take before you spotted this issue? Last minute quality checks can only do so much. I know on my guitars I haven't always noticed things initially either. You can really only solve these things by making sure your production processes reduce the likelihood of them being there in the first place. My Japanese guitars are waaaaayyyyyy higher production quality than my Korean guitars, including the JTV59. Out of respect for Line 6 I won't go into the manufacturing issues with my JTV59's, but definitely way below Japanese quality, but above Chinese quality. It's a mid-range instrument with expensive electronics.

Took a couple o' weeks. Should've taken MUCH less, but was trying to do things I don't normally do (like play lead WAY up the neck), so it took me a while.  You're right: it IS a mid-range axe - I just wasn't thinking that way. You're also right about the quality of production between the various East Asian countries. Just wish L6's "other" factory was Japanese.

I doubt that's the scratch and dent problem. That's the Korean Guitar problem.

Shouldn't the Korean axes go to Line 6 for QC before being shipped to dealers? If so, that could, indeed, be the s&d problem. If, however, L6 isn't QCing the axes before delivery to dealers, that's a major corporate mal-decision.

You might be able to shift the nut or just replace it.  Also sight down the neck and make sure the strings are aligned with the edges.  I looked at several JTV69's and some had the neck set crooked so the strings were not parallel with the neck.  I picked one that was set correctly and my strings don't fall off the neck.

I just sighted the neck, and it is, indeed, just a wee bit crooked (maybe 1/64th off?), but the problem can, I think, be cured with a new nut. I'll be taking it to a luthier I know. I think I want him to narrow the string spacing just a touch, leave the 6th string placement where it is, keep the depth on the 3rd thru 6th strings as they are, but deepen the cuts for the 1st and 2nd strings. That, IMHO, would make this a beautifully-playing guitar.

Comments?

Don't think so, Charlie. It's only on those two models; the other acoustics, the resonators, strats, teles, LPs, etc., seem to be just fine (no rattle), so it must be in the modeling.

The problem I'm having with acoustic sounds from my 59 is string rattle on the 6th string (low E), no matter HOW easily I "hit" it. It seems to be limited to the J-200 and the D-28. The others seem to be okay. Any suggestions (other than not using those two models)?

Actually, mainly Country and Gospel (Country Gospel, Southern Gospel, some Bluegrass Gospel), but also beginning to learn some Blues, just to widen my "pallette" a bit. I'd like the ability to leave the rhythm playing a bit and throw in a little lead now and then. I don't want an eight minute solo full of shred, but a few, very minor riffs eased in between phrases would be good, I think.

"...very slow or light vibrato can be lost entirely" and noted "subtle stepping effects...on slow, wide bends."

Personally, if your vibrato is THAT slow or light  and if your bends are THAT slow and wide, maybe you might want to rethink/alter your technique. I haven't found a need for those techniques (I don't do rock, metal, etc.), but, as in all matters musical, YMMV. ;)

I got a 59 Scratch 'n Dent from Sweetwater. Went over it and over it and... Found one little spot on the top edge of the fretboard, almost half the size of the fret markers, @2nd fret that was slightly discolored. I'm not sure that, if I were screening the outgoing units from the factory, I would have pulled this for a Scratch 'n Dent sale. I would never have noticed it if my buddy hadn't pointed it out to me. I was looking for SCRATCHES and DENTS - there are none. That wasn't a $450 "problem" to me, but I'm REALLY happy it was to Line 6! :wub:

I have a sneaking suspicion that sometimes a manufacturer allows a percentage of their perfectly fine guitars to be sold as "Scratch & Dent" to increase their sales, i.e. cash flow. This allows them to get more sales without discounting the entire line by the same amount. I have also purchased a Sweetwater JTV-69 "Scratch & Dent". It's perfect. And, you certainly don't hear me complaining!!

Well, I finally notice a "problem" with my 59: the nut doesn't seem to be cut just right. The 1st string (high E) is a bit too close to the end of the fret, and I've pushed it off the end a couple of times already. If they'd reduced the spacing just a touch and centered the strings on the fretboard, it would be better.  Plus, the E and B are a little high (the nut wasn't cut quite deep enough), causing those two strings to be out of tune when using chords down near the nut (Dmaj, Amaj, etc).

However, I'm STILL a happy camper (more or less) with my (still fairly new) JTV-59.

I didn't post a negative vote, as I'm not even able to access ideascale to read your post, but I would be opposed to Autotune ala Peavey's system.  From what I understand, slight vibrato technique is removed with Autotune.  The auto pitch corrects it.  Vibrato is a big part of the expressive qualities of the guitar to me.  

 

It would be great to hear every chord ring in perfect pitch, but at the expense of vibrato?

Actually, the Peavey AT-200 does NOT remove vibrato/tremolo (or whatever you want to call it), and it does NOT remove any bends. It auto-detects these techniques and allows them  to "pass", unmodified. Yes, I own a Peavey AT-200 AutoTune "strat". Bought it a few months before I pulled the trigger on my JTV-59. The AutoTune/Perfect Intonation technology is "doable" in the Variax, but I suspect Peavey and Antares (the maker of "AutoTune for Guitar") have an exclusivity pact. Line 6 would be forced to engineer those functions from the ground up, and Antares MAY have applied for a patent (I would have).

I got a 59 Scratch 'n Dent from Sweetwater. Went over it and over it and... Found one little spot on the top edge of the fretboard, almost half the size of the fret markers, @2nd fret that was slightly discolored. I'm not sure that, if I were screening the outgoing units from the factory, I would have pulled this for a Scratch 'n Dent sale. I would never have noticed it if my buddy hadn't pointed it out to me. I was looking for SCRATCHES and DENTS - there are none. That wasn't a $450 "problem" to me, but I'm REALLY happy it was to Line 6! :wub:

D/L the Spider IV Edit program. Select the location in which you want the preset to appear, and Open that file. You're done. (Don't forget to save it if it sounds right.)

Are you using a 4-string, 5-string, ?  What volume level(s) are typical for your playing? It all makes a difference.

As fflbrgst stated, you have to match freq ranges. You ALSO must consider volume, as, if your volume is much higher on the bass, you could "blow" your speaker. Bass speakers typically have greater travel ranges than guitar speakers, as the bass freqs will push a cone farther (physically) than the higher freqs of the guitar, especially if the volume is up there.

I'd try it at very low volumes at first and see how that works for you. If you MUST go to higher volumes, mic it and push that into your PA.

Good luck with it.

Here's another request for the nylon string model.

 

I'd also like to have option to set up bass guitars in the custom banks: A Jazz bass, P-bass, 5 string, even an acoustic.

Bass guitars are an option in the GR-55 even when in guitar mode.

REALLY! Nylon, P-bass (5-string version), ac/el bass (actually, I might get that one from WB - haven't thought of trying it).

How about a "treble-bleed" feature for the volume control.  For those unfamiliar with the term, it means that as you turn down the volume on a modeled instrument, the tone does not alter.

Sounds good to me!

I have a new model wish.  I haven't read all the pages to see if it was already requested.  Mandolin !

That would be great! I tried modeling one in WB, but can't be done with the programmed-in limitations of only one octave tuning variation. :blink: Same goes for making a banjo model - can't tune the A up to the high G (one full step short of two octaves).

at the end the Variax software does a job similar to that of a make-up artist when s/he tries to clone some famous people

surely it is easier to clone in a convincing manner someone who has at least some basic common physical characteristics of the person being cloned

 

In this case I imagine it's quite difficult to get a convincing nylon string sound from a steel string, the attack transients and the overtone contents of the two types are on 2 different planets

Seems to me that, if you can model a compressor, changing attack, blend, sustain, etc., you should, at the very LEAST, get close to the sound of nylon. As far as overtones are concerned, if I can get a stompbox to do vocal harmonies for me, maybe a s/w engineer can, with a little effort, get a respectable sound of nylon strings. Don't know if this would require more processing power or RAM than my Variax has now, but I can't see that this would create an insurmountable barrier for Line6.

I MAY be completely wrong about ALL this, but... well, I don't THINK so. :rolleyes:

I have been very interested in the JTVs for their convenience and flexibility, but when I try them at two local stores, I can't get into them. Partly it's the setup (high action, thick necks) and partly its a feeling of being disconnected from the guitar.

Personally, I'd be looking/shopping at different stores. I bought my 59 from Sweetwater, and they set up all their guitars (over a $300 price point, I believe) before a customer ever sees one. If your store isn't doing this, find one that cares a little more about customer satisfaction. :rolleyes:

As far as my 59 is concerned, I'm VERY happy with it.  :wub:  Great sound (with the exception of modeling some string rattle on one of the acoustics), and very easy to learn (I'm no Luddite, either). ;)

I got my JTV59 from Sweetwater's scratch/dent sale last month. Works perfectly as best as I can tell. Plus, not scratched or dented, saved $450.

I did the same thing: 59 S&D from Sweetwater for $450 off. Couldn't be happier! Great looking guitar that sounds great, too! I've had it a whole two days already - :D  - I've tried all the different models (I think) and most of the alt tunings, and I'm lovin' it! Plays quite nicely through my Spider IV 75. The S&D on mine, however, is noticeable (IF you're really picking nits) - there's a slight discoloration on the top edge of the fretboard @ the 2nd fret, almost half the size of the marker dots. If you look at it under harsh lighting, it's visible; otherwise not. Yeah. I'm happy.

Of course, it won't feel like nylon. The 12-strings don't feel like 12's, or the banjo... You get my point.  :)  However, with a few (maybe several) hours practice, most people should be able to make it sound like nylon. I'd really like to see/hear/feel that in my (brand new) 59!

Looks to me like the bottom right hand corner of the WB control panel. You can see the word "Model"; to the left of that is the control slider for the Mag/Model blend.