sorcerer532

On 7/27/2019 at 4:20 PM, pianoguyy said:

as to the wired headphones.... 

they do sell extension wires. turn your 3 feet into 20. 

...having had some horrible experiences with headphone extension cables, I highly recommend the Amazon Basics cables: 

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAV1K2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=7BKBWKOSVZQ3&dchild=1&keywords=amazon+basics+headphone+extension+cable&qid=1595723490&sprefix=amazon+basics+headphone+extension%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-4

My experience has been, even under light use, that most extensions crackle or break connection either along the cable or at the point the adapter connects. The Amazon Basics cables I have--both 12ft and 25ft--do not have those problems. I would gig my thin 1/8" 25ft for in ears if I had to, but I never have. Even so--I have never used another brand of headphone extension cords that I would ever gig.

I have to add that I have never used the Pig Hog cables, so I cannot judge them.

1 hour ago, rick1966 said:

not a phone more like a chrome book or macbook something portable so i can go from home to my practice space 

POD HD500x Edit for Windows and OS X:

https://line6.com/data/6/0a06434c11f852169d6dcd6b2/application/pdf/POD%20HD500X%20Edit%20Pilot's%20Guide%20-%20English%20(%20Rev%20B%20).pdf

I've looked around, but I haven't seen any videos (or much of anything) where somebody directly compares a Helix w/ Powercab(s) against the HD series w/ DT Amps.

I have seen the Helix direct compared to mic'd amps, but I'm really curious to hear the two "Dream Rigs" battle it out.

Anybody else?

I don't know how much latency is involved with using Bluetooth headphones, but...

On 7/6/2020 at 2:23 PM, fobsternd said:

But then why can't you just route the pod output directly into the computer's input jack? The pod is an audio interface itself.  Get a 1/4" to 1/8" cable or something and plug the 1/4" into the pod's output and the 1/8" into the stereo input on your motherboard?

The signal is a bit mismatched, but this is possible. You would just be using your computer's onboard sound card. If it's your computer's microphone input, the headphone out on the POD is way too hot for it, but if your computer's card has a line in, it would work in a pinch. 

The better choice for a line input would be to hook an adapter up to the 1/4" outputs on the POD. Something like this:

Less than $15 on Amazon: Hosa HMP-006Y

8 hours ago, fobsternd said:

What if I'm just jamming? There's latency regardless?

The long and short of the latency question is yes: if your audio is going through an interface into the computer and back out again, there is latency, but different interfaces have different round trip times.

In general, the faster the connection (USB-C is better than USB 2.0), or the more onboard DSP your interface dedicates to lessen latency, the shorter the round trip time is.

Most of the cheaper interfaces have a way around this called direct monitoring. You turn on direct monitoring or turn a dedicated knob to hear the dry signal before it goes through the computer.  

Here are a couple interfaces with that feature (one with a switch and one with an input/playback knob):

If you are just playing alone without accompaniment, I would use the headphone out on your HD500X.

If you are playing along with something on your computer, using direct monitoring and the headphone output of the interface would be best.

On 7/3/2020 at 2:15 PM, Jayth21 said:

Will this controller work with a dt50? If no, what can I use to access midi capability on this amp. I would like to use this for silent recording, however it sounds horrible as it is now.

I am simply sending from the direct out to my digital recorder. I want to access the cab/mic sims that come with this amp.Please help...:) P.S I tried searching here, google, yahoo, digitech,

encyclopedia, dictionary, phone book...wits end here...

I imagine any MIDI controller will work (with different degrees of usefulness).

I would start with a computer + MIDI interface. I've seen the M-Audio Uno recommended often on the forum. I am using the somewhat cheaper iConnectivity Mio, though I have had a Uno in the past and prefer it.

Install the MIDI interface and a User Created DT Editor: 

With a DT editor you will be able to tweak all of the settings: mics, cabinets, preamps, types of reverb, reverb settings, and more to your heart's content.

After editing, I have my two favorite preamps loaded (one on Channel A/one on Channel B) and simply toggle between them like a normal 2-channel amp (which is how I would record the amp if I was trying to use the mic level output).

On 6/15/2020 at 9:51 PM, mario48 said:

tengo problema, compre la hd500x y a la primera que conecto sale update flash y no sale. intente aprentado izquierda y colocando el adaptador. pero no sale. intente conectarla y actualizarla y no funciona. dice error. ayuda porfavor 

Haz intentado todos los soluciones en este tópico?

Ah--josephship434--I thought you started the thread for some reason! Ha!

On 6/29/2020 at 6:41 AM, josephship434 said:

That helps, because I haven't looked into experimenting with dual paths. You know of any good artists or youtube channels or whatever that helps educate people on stuff like this?

I don't know of any YouTube channels, but here is the way I've done what Ronsom1976 is talking about:

1. Create a dual amp patch with one amp model on "PATH A" and another on "PATH B"--leave both amp models on --> POD HD500X Edit Pilot's Guide 3-7 English Rev B.
2. Go to the MIXER view: pan "PATH A" hard left and "PATH B" hard right --> POD HD500X Edit Pilot's Guide 4-1 English Rev B.
3. Go to the AMPS view and dial in each amp models' settings & volume levels
4. Go to the CONTROLLERS view  --> POD HD500X Edit Pilot's Guide 5-1 English Rev B.
5. In the MODEL list select the amp on path B
6. In the FS ASSIGN list choose the footswitch you want to use to turn Amp Model B on and off
7. Go to the AMPS view, turn the amp model in Path B off, and set the "CH VOL" knob to 0%
8. Test the footswitch you selected--it should turn the amp in Path B on/off and toggle the channel volume from 0% to where you previously programmed it

2 hours ago, RonSom1976 said:

You can start a song by using amp1 and switch on amp2 at a point - so you simulate a second guitarist starts playing now (the same accords).

You should pan right / left for this effect.

Are you asking if it is possible or are you making a statement telling us that it is?

1 hour ago, psarkissian said:

New Tubes? How long has it been since the last tube replacement?

I have only had the amp for a few days and I really don't have any type of tube history.

Both the preamp and power tubes are the Electro-Harmonix branded EH tubes. 

I would have to take a closer look to verify, but the previous owner told me that the EL34's are marked 10 02 and 09 11, while the two 12AX7's are marked 09 07. I'm not sure if those markings are dates.

Here are pictures I received of the tubes:

8 hours ago, psarkissian said:

In topology IV,... sounds about right. It is one of the more loud, higher gain topologies.

Check the manuals for info on gain topologies.

psarkissian--another question--I've noticed that the noise floor on the amp is really quite loud, even when nothing is connected to either of the inputs on the front panel.

The level of the noise seems to be dependent on topology. 

I read one review that mentioned this behavior, but I find myself wondering if it might be time for new tubes.

...because the level of the noise seems dependent on topology, does it mean it might be coming from the power section?

Note that I have not put a noise gate before the amp or in the effects loop yet*

On 5/14/2020 at 6:24 PM, shredjsx said:

Ok, My DT25 head came in today..,
The cab gets here next week
 

Have any of you swapped out the FR style Celestion in one for a V30 or Greenback to give it a true classic tone?

The DT50 212 model came stock with one Celestion G12H-90 and one Celestion Vintage 30:

The 4x12 cabs for the DT series also came loaded with two of each.

If I had the 1x12 cab, I'd probably consider getting a second 1x12 with a Vintage 30, but I would be cautious about putting anything else there because the speaker outputs of the DT series are affected by the cabinet emulations.

I take that to mean that the carefully engineered EQ curves that make it to the speaker outputs were designed specifically for G12H-90's and V30's.

47 minutes ago, psarkissian said:

In topology IV,... sounds about right. It is one of the more loud, higher gain topologies.

Check the manuals for info on gain topologies.

Thanks!

I'm wondering if the master volume on my DT50 is behaving normally. I am using an EMG81 active pickup plugged into the LOW input.

I have the amp on topology IV and have the channel volume all the way up.

When I slowly increase the master volume, I have to bring it up a bit before I suddenly get a loud signal. Before that threshold there is no signal (relative silence with no guitar signal).

I turn the channel volume down and noticed the curve of the master volume's behavior is somewhat the same. I take it past the same (or very close) threshold and suddenly there is a healthy dose of volume.

Is that normal behavior for everybody else's amp?

This is the looper mode from the HD500: 

You can:

undo,

play once or loop infinitely,

place the looper at the beginning of the path(s) --> PRE,

place the looper at the end of the path(s) --> POST,

record and overdub,

stop and play,

record full speed/force playback half as fast (half speed plays back one octave down),

record half speed/force playback twice as fast (double speed plays back one octave up),

and lastly, force reverse playback.

On 6/6/2015 at 8:13 AM, haller88 said:

Brazzy - that post was helpful but when I used the down button on power on - it does go into Flash Update mode but since the USB driver still shows V0.00 so Windows 7 doesn't recognize the unit. I can't push anything because the USB firmware is corrupt but Windows does recognize there is a USB device on the hub - it just doesn't know what it is. I am hoping that Line 6 support might be able to send me a program that allows for pushing the USB firmware update in Flash update mode - we will see. Thanks for everyone's help - looks like I am getting close to either fixing this or giving up but have gotten some great advice... 

My HD500X USB firmware shows that it is v0.00 while my unit is disconnected.

Somebody in another thread I read said this was normal behavior. 

That said, I hope your issue gets resolved. Having a bricked unit is heartbreaking.

I agree in this sense--if you are recording and performing with it now, use it until it's no longer viable. Use that long road ahead to save up for something that suits your needs.

I think it's better to get a piece of kit that might last you 5 years (or even 20) than it is to buy a small upgrade that you'll turn around and sell in one.

It's a mistake I've made many times.

On 5/28/2020 at 4:00 PM, Punkyboy said:

Yes you can do that :

Create a patch on channel A with a volume pedal at the end with setting min to 0 and max to 100

Create a patche on channel B With a volume at the end with setting  min to 100 and max to 0

Use the pedal to switch between the  2 channels

You can assign the expression pedal to each amp model's CH VOL.

• When Amp A is at playing volume, the CH VOL of Amp B is 0, and vice versa.
• The heel and toe position give you two "channels."

This also frees up blocks. If you're effects aren't too heavy on DSP, it is possible to have effects models on all 8 blocks.

*As long as the delay is after the amp model on Path A or B, you will hear the tail ring out when you switch channels.

If you have a powerful enough computer to run it, I'd go with Helix Native.

It's the complete flagship model on your computer for $399.99, which is less than the POD GO.

That said, the POD GO is $449.99 at Sweetwater right now if you don't always want to be tied to a computer.

29 minutes ago, psarkissian said:

Using L6 Link is like guitar cable signal path, only it's digital. FX sends and returns using 1/4" guitar cables are analog,

so the FX sends and returns aren't used. Whatever FX come out of the 500X goes to the amp. And whatever tone and reverb

is in the DT50 will also be part of that sound.

 

Also, check my post on tubes, it will come in handy when it's time for its periodical tube replacements.

Thanks! I saw an option to output the signal directly after the HD amp model via L6 Link in the L6 Link Connectivity Guide:

"Amp Model A, Amp Model B or Amp A/B sends the output directly from the respective Amp Model(s), wherever they reside within the signal flow. This audio signal includes FX Models positioned before the selected Amp Model, but not FX Models positioned after the Amp Model."

...seems like that would allow us to use the effects send on the DT amps to take up the remainder of the signal chain, though I think the only way to run that in stereo would be with a MIDI cable between the amps and the effects return of the HD500X connected to the return of the second DT amp.

Thanks for the tube post! I saw it and have your links to Full Compass bookmarked for when the time comes.

21 minutes ago, psarkissian said:

Depends on where you plug into the amp.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I thought I had included that information somehow, but I was mistaken.

HD500X --> L6 Link --> DT50

Input Setup can be set to "Global" or per "Preset."

If your input source is not set to Variax--or something including the Variax--it could cause this issue.

I just bought a DT50 and am waiting for it's arrival, and though I've looked I've not found an answer to this question:

Do effect blocks after the amp model on an HD500X preset act like they are in the effects loop of the DT amp or are they all placed in front of the amp's preamp?

I had this issue sometime last year with the guitar input. I flashed the firmware and the issue went away.

I hope that solves it for you too.

On 6/13/2015 at 10:22 AM, ColonelForbin said:

So here is how the DT behaves with the two button latching footswitch - it would probably work better with a one button switch if you could get one that only did channel switching.

 

With the reverb button, light off means the Reverb is 'on'. Light on, reverb off. For the channel switching, it's not instant, and there is a noticable silent / audio drop out. If you are playing and trigger a channel change for a lead boost, it will sound like you flubbed the timing and came in late. Perfectly fine for changing not 'on the fly', and in general I do make good use of it. But since it can't function as a lead boost / clean boost as I originally hoped, it kinda took a backseat to other pedals, and I don't use it much.

Hi, ColonelForbin, or anybody else that would like to chime in!

Are you saying the DT25 lights an LED on a footswitch that has no battery? 

Does anybody know if using a channel footswitch on a DT50 drops audio when switching channels?

EDIT(S):

I connected a momentary footswitch to my DT50 to test this.

It will drop audio in very specific scenarios explained in the manuals.

Switching from Topology I (Channel A) to Topology IV (Channel B)--both channels set to Class AB & Pentode--is instantaneous.

*If Phase Inverter B+ Voltage of either channel is different there is a drop when switching channels