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Posts posted by cruisinon2

  1. Hmm, 2 posts... I'll have to assume you're new and possibly just bought this?

    There are many ways this can be hooked up.

    You'll have to post more info so we can help you with this.


    Why am I saying "this"... cuz you don't even specify the POD type. :huh:


    Well...not to put too fine a point on it, but it is right there in the title of the thread. He's got a 500x.

    • Upvote 1
  2.  I want tones that are done or damn close. 


    This doesn't exist. From Line 6 or any other company. There are no "one size fits all" tones. Give the same amp and same guitar to 10 different experienced players, and you're gonna get 10 different sounds.



    I don't want to play with the tones, tweak this, tweak that.  


    Then you picked the wrong instrument. This is what guitarists do.



    why can't the app "Shazam" the tones exactly like "Shazam" will tell you who is playing a song? 


    Because magic isn't real.



    Which I don't know what I'm doing.


    This is where we ALL started, and there's exactly one cure...experience.



    Should I stick with it or go back and get one of the Spiders?  I still have a few weeks for a return. Thanks!!!       


    Not liking the amp is one thing. If you're more comfortable with something else, go for it...a piece of gear you like will probably inspire you to GET better, but it can't MAKE you better. And just so you don't get discouraged with the Spider series, there's no mystical "Nirvana" or "Ramones" buttons on those amps either. Anything you get will need tweaking...100% universal.

    • Upvote 1
  3. No worries, I'm not testy. I am sometimes in a hurry to get these responses out and though

    I'm good with guitars, my typing skills can use some augmenting. "That's all I meant..."--- I figured

    as much. Ah yes, the smiley face,... :)


    They thrust this upon me because I asked for it. They know how much I like working on these.

    There are also a number of Line 6 authorized service centers in America that are capable, so

    I get some help. And there's my counterparts in the UK taking care of the Euro Zone. :)


    I also own a 69 and two 59's. :) :)

    Fair enough...all good. :)

  4. Yes crusinon2,... I'm it. Would've thought the "US Service Technician & Moderator" was the dead giveaway.



    OK...really no need to get testy. I'm neither an imbecile, nor illiterate. I see your title now, and I saw it before. The title alone doesn't necessarily preclude there being more than one of you. And frankly, it surprises me a bit that they would dump the load of repairing every JTV in the country on one guy. That's all I meant. Would have thought the smiley face in my other post was a dead giveaway.

  5. Regarding the palm mute,.... which version firmware do you have loaded in? 

    Version 2.00 program has a routine in it for palm muting.


    I'm running 2.0. This is a totally different, very specific problem. Affects only the drop D tunings. Palm-muting the open A string results in some weird overtones coming through.The original post all the way at the top of this thread describes it in great, gory detail. No point is typing it all again here, but here's the Reader's Digest version:


    In short, the low E saddle/piezo is hearing the A string. I verified this by turning A string's volume to zero in Workbench, and then compared plucking the A string with no palm muting vs. resting my picking hand across the strings (in typical palm-muting fashion), and playing that A string again. With no palm-muting and the A string's output at zero, I hear nothing...total silence. With palm-muting, and A string's volume still at zero, I hear clearly audible notes. Only explanation is that one or more other piezos are picking up the A string's vibration through my hand being in contact with, in particular, the low E string. Hand placement is the only variable in the equation.


    If I contort myself so that my hand is not touching the low E string at all, no odd sounds...but this is easier said than done.

  6. I'm a bit puzzled by the lengthwise position of those bridge pieces.  Is that really where they ended up when you adjusted the intonation?  Modern string sets with solid 3rd strings almost always require a distinctive 3-slanted + 3-slanted pattern where 6th and 3rd string are furthest from the nut, then 5th and 2nd, etc.


    Also, the "clacking" you demonstrate in the video suggests that the bridge pieces are too tight against each other laterally - so when you loosen one screw it cannot twist enough to settle tight against the plate.  Is there any daylight at all between the pieces?  The original Variax pieces have about 1/64" of daylight between them.  I'm not sure what material the GraphTechs are made of, but you may want to consider grinding a bit off the sides to open some clearance.  They do say not to file the actual saddle area, but I doubt the pizeo element extends to the sides. 


    Unless one really knows what they're doing, jury-rigging stuff that wasn't designed to work together is at the very least a pain in the arse, often more trouble than it's worth, and sometimes worse than having done nothing at all. Hats off to anyone for whom this kind of surgery is a walk in the park, but for me it's starting to seems like the JTV/Graphtec combo won't be an option. I can strip wires and solder, but I draw the line at grinding metal. I think I'll stick with what I got...limitations and all...Just don't see it ending well.


    Or I'll buy an 89 and put the wrap-around Graphtec bridge on it...that shouldn't require a welding torch or anything, right? ;)

  7. Agreed! - i still have my 2004 Vetta Combo and Variax 500 that were "the dream rig" 10 years ago - both now abandoned. Its getting tough to find support for any gear older than 5 years. And remember The JTV will be 5 years old later this year.

    And at the pace at which technology changes, that 5 year interval is likely to get shorter and shorter. We can all lament this fact until we're blue in the face, but it won't change. Stuff will become obsolete faster and faster, and companies will move on to the next Big Thing just as fast. Those that don't will disappear. Unless of course they've been annointed with "classic" status, in which case they can go on making the same tired old crap decade after decade which people will continue to buy because its "tradition".

    • Upvote 2
  8. Regarding string gauge,....


    If you want to use 9's, that's okay,.... but you'll need to take it to a guitar tech to have the

    set-up adjusted for that gauge set. When you change gauges, you change the tension,

    when you change the tension, the set-up is off and needs to be adjusted.


    That info might not be in the brochures, because it's just a common aspect of all guitars.

    Change anything that alters the string tension, and you alter the set-up. It's like that on all

    guitars, not just JTV's.


    Also, climate of your location also affects the set-up. When you get a guitar back from a

    distant shop, the set-up should be done with your location in mind, so give it a couple days

    or more to settle in. If it is still a little off, take it to a local guitar tech for that final dial-in.


    Any thoughts on the crosstalk issue?

  9. I just don't feel right about taking advantage of liberal return policies.  Also, that wouldn't have given me both instruments side by side to play with.

    You're a better man than I....lol. True, you couldn't a/b them, unless you bought both, knowing you'd return one (even I wouldn't do that). But even if you did, you're not taking advantage of them...they make their own rules.

  10. After driving 250 miles to Boston in order to find a store with both a 69 and 59 in stock,  I bought the former for two reasons:  The neck was replaceable if I didn't like it (and it turns out I didn't) and you could select all five positions with one hand.  It just seemed like having to use both hands for pickup changes would be problematic.

    250 miles? Wow...man on a mission. I don't think I'd drive 250 miles if I needed a kidney transplant, lol.


    Next time just buy whatever it is from Sweetwater, play it for a month and return it no questions asked if ya don't like it. If nothing else it'll save you about $80 in gas...

  11. Unfortunately I cant fin either in local stores here. Is te modelling the exact same on both models? Does the 3 way switch on the 59P provide huge limitations?

    99.68% of this decision will boil down to personal preference. The switch thing too...as far as I'm concerned, one 5 way switch is infinitely easier to operate on the fly than a 3 way switch plus a button, but thats just me...you might not care, and obviously there are plenty of guys for whom its not an issue. I'm also not a big fan of the Les Paul-like ergonomics of the guitar itself...so I never really looked at the 59.


    The models and tunings are all the same, and you shouldn't notice much of a difference, except perhaps with sustain. Generally a set neck will give you a little more sustain than a bolt-on, but the 69's are very resonant guitars and they ring like a bell. Mine sustains better than my Am. Std. Strat.

    • Upvote 1
  12. Relying on Line 6 to store them for you is not likely to end well. Been tons of complaints about the website lately, specifically many patches disappearing from custom tones. Save them in HD edit and store them on your computer, at least that way you'll know where they are.

  13. Unfortunately, you will have to experiment with the different options and find what sounds best to you. Someone else's settings may or may not sound good to you. There are no right or wrong choices. Try both preamp and full amp models...play around with everything and see what you like. There's no escaping that phase...and get used to the idea of having different banks of patches...one set for headphones, one for bedroom volume through an amp, and one at rehearsal/gig volume...no getting around that either.

  14. You short circuit a regular guitar it'll just start buzzing or not making sound most likely.


    You short circuit a computer system and you can possibly fry or damage components that are getting voltages that they're not supposed to. This can result in it not working properly or not working at all.

    I don't think anyone is arguing that short circuits are a good thing, and I'm sure its possible to produce them by shoving metal stuff inside the guts of a Variax. However, I maintain that unless one is truly spastic, an incredible slob, or deliberately trying to ruin the guitar, using a little steel wool on the neck with no exposed electrical components poses near zero risk to the guitar. If not, then perhaps mine will fry one day...but I seriously doubt it.

  15. O.K. the guitar is back from Line 6. Guess what? IMHO they did not fix anything. It sounds exactly the same!! Again to recap how I test it. (and I hope I am missing something)

    Tones on all magnetic pickups  -  great. (remember, this is coming right off their bench and set up the way they say it is supposed to be)


    Piezo mode. On the Alt. Tuning Knob it is set to Standard. On the model knob, set to Spank  -  Spank model and all others sound perfect. No ghost tones anywhere. 


    In Piezo mode, turning the alt. tuning knob to any other setting, say "Blues G", I get double tones on the High E and G strings. Note: I get the multi-tones even when I pick the one string with my hand laying over all the others. This rules out the sympathetic response that was mentioned earlier. 


    I will experiment a bit more. Recheck the settings in the Workbench and make sure nothing is set up to blend with the magnetic pickups. I am open to ideas - other then hitting something with the guitar!!


    Sorry to hear that, but I'm not surprised. Their diagnosis made no sense in the first place.

  16. make sure you do not get any of the steel wool inside the guitar. I'm sure it can short circuit it if you do.


    I suppose it could...if wou wedged an entire pad of the stuff in next to your switches and pots, but I don't think the little shavings pose much of a risk. I've been using ultra fine steel wool to get crud off of fretboards and to smooth the backs of necks for years, and never gave it a second thought....unless you have the pickguard or backplates off at the same time, it's nearly impossible to screw anything up. And even then you're using it on the neck.

  17. I was thinking "is there a common starting point?" but yeah, I know what you mean.

    If you think of it in the terms of an amplifier, you turn on your amp and it sounds like XX when it's clean.

    Then you add effects, distortion, etc. But you've got that clean, punchy amp as a starting point.

    With the HD500, it seems like you're always starting at ground zero. I need to find the "clean, punchy amp" and build from there and I guess that's what I'm finding hard to do.

    I realize it's an odd and somewhat basic question,


    Well, you're right, you are starting from scratch each time...the HD500, 500x are quite different anything else I've used. Definitely not plug-and-play. I tend to think of the clean and dirty tones as completely different universes. I almost never use the same amp model(s) for both...but your mileage may vary.

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