cruisinon2

Evening all. First post here - sorry to make it so mundane! Live in the UK and recently played a gig with an old amp of mine (Line 6 Spider 3 150W) and lost the power cable. Currently looking for a new one but no luck so far. Back of the amp states power requirements as:

• 220 - 240 V.
• 50 - 60 Hz.
• 480 W Max.

Anyone have any idea where I might be able to find another one? Old trusty amp that I would hate to have to sideline because of something like this!

 

Cheers!

 

J.

I have the same head...over here it's just a standard 3 prong power cord. I don't know if the fact that you guys run at a different voltage would require anything special...not sure why it would, but who knows?

Put an FX loop whereever you want it in your tone.  Connect the FX loop out to the FX loop in.  Set the return +4dB.  Assign the FX loop to a switch.  Rock on.

That's a really good idea. Thanks!

This needs to be in Ideascale...L6 doesn't monitor the forums for feature requests/ideas.

Thanks for the responses so far really helpful.

 

Everything now locked in and waiting to arrive.

 

I have gone for DT50 combo 2x12 plus the HD500x and a Tyler Variax JTV69. I am essentially looking for more versatility and less complexity than my current rig. Getting the switching right on my current rig was a nightmare and still not perfect.

Versatility, absolutely...less complexity is debatable. The 500X is an amazing unit, but not what I'd call intuitive (but that could be me...lol  ;) ) Lotsa deep editing buried in various places...not always obvious what to do, or where to go to do it. But once you get the hang of it, it's a monster.

Same goes for the JTV...equally amazing, assuming that it has no problems...some do, some don't. QC  leaves a little bit to be desired sometimes. I'm sure you've read through other threads that go into the nitty gritty. Even the ones that are 100% take some getting used to, but once you do it's another world. Good luck with it.

I'm trying to set up my HD500 to run through my clean (channel 1) only. I've tried the 4cm, but I'm not sure it's set up right. I've got a Mesa Dual Rec. If someone could help me, I'd appreciate it.

No experieince with your amp personally, but if it has an FX loop, just use that and save yourself a whole lot of grief and noise.

Make a separate channel to be your lead channel and make the amp volume a bit louder

That used to work before the 2.0 JTV update...in fact it's worked for me on just about every rig I've owned over the last 20 years. But now the dreaded "click" that accompanies each patch change makes this a cringe-worthy experience depending on the tune...

I have a strange but true story:

 

I plugged the 1/4 TS patch cable into my JTV69 and my Behringer KFX3000 keyboard amp via a Behringer XENYX 802 mixer (no fx).

 

While testing out various guitar models - I began to notice a low frequency buzz on the Behringer amp's 15" speaker - I was playing with only moderate attack - guitar volume knob was 100%.  I tried to make it go away by adjusting the EQ on the mixer and everything else I could think of but no luck.  Certain models seemed to overwhelm the strudy KFX30000.   I unplugged the guitar and tested again with the electric piano - playing on the lower registers and the amp held up with no sign of buzzing...

 

I think this is a function of the DSP in the JTV69.  Has anyone come across this and do you have and explanation for it?

 

Thanks

Were you playing in standard tuning, or using an alt. tuning? There seems to be no end to the weirdness that some of the alt tunings can produce under the right circumstances...phase of the moon, tides, "bad-set-ups", etc.

thats NOT a "VDI cable"... its only for use with the workbench interface...

not supposed to be useful for anything else!

 

a real VDI cable has both metal ends.

Which is why I replaced it. But since I wanted to power and control the guitar with the 500X, that's the only choice I had right out of the box...if there's supposed to be a "real VDI"  included, I never got it.

I don't know... I think the newer VDI cables aren't too bad. I got two last year, and they seem fine to me. They are more flexible than the old one I had, for sure. I think they're getting them from a different vendor now.

I don't mean the 30 footer that L6 sells. I have one of those too, and it's OK, not great, but OK...I meant the one that came with the guitar that only has the metal collar at one end. That thing is next to useless, unless you only play sitting in a chair.

Heh.  I've often described it as having all suppleness of a garden hose.

Lol...

So do I pull the black housing around the chrome knob to get the knob out? This is just a week old guitar so trying to be extra careful in case I need to send it back. Also, if I change the input on my HD500 to Variax Magnetics instead of Variax it switches to the magnetics even though the knob remains lit. 

This is probably a good sign that it's a just a mechanical issue with the switch. If you were not able to switch to mags even with the 500, then that would seem to indicate an electrical issue somewhere beyond the switch itself. I've never pulled mine apart, so I can't help you with that, though...good luck.

Thanks, guys! Are Glenn's patches good in live settings? I seen a series of youtube videos about getting certain artist tones, it was just a video of the edit software and a guy talking over it.

Only one way to find out...too many variables to predict whether or not somebody else's patches are gonna work for you. Truth is, on a good day you will only be able to use them as a starting point. And it's debatable whether or not that saves you any time, compared to starting from scratch. The more familiar with the unit you get, odds are you'll find it easier to just do it yourself. Tweaking is inevitable no matter what you do.

I really wonder how new the new ones they are selling now are.  I suspect that the JTV volumes are not all that high and they may have built up an inventory of them.

Well my 69 is about 3 months old...but the serial number indicates that it was made in 2012...April I think, gotta double check. So technically it's a 2 year old guitar. Sweetwater alone seems to have a million of them, and right after the holidays they were letting some brand new ones (not even scratch 'n' dent) go for $899...I should have waited a month  :( . Makes you wonder what the wholesale price actually is...not likely that they were taking a loss, unless they're drowning in them. My knob is OK so far (knock wood), but it seems there's another guy with a model knob or switch issue every other day around here...doesn't bode well.

Good point. They used to have a dedicated guy helping with the switch issues but I haven't seen him jump in. They don't even sell the switches or tell you where to really get them (dparks gave me a fake/wrong email address to contact and is maintaining radio silence so far).

 

 

The guy who chimes in on here occasionally claims to be the only tech at Line 6 servicing JTV's. So it seems there's only one dedicated guy for everything. It's a swell model... :wacko:

Maybe they should start shipping the JTVs with a little "first aid kit". A roll of duct tape, cardboard shims, super glue, etc...and those are just for the friggin' knobs. QC FAIL.

You're thinking too much. "Upgrade" is a subjective term. If you think the cab with the vintage 30s sounds better than the other one, then its an upgrade. If you hate it, not really an upgrade no matter how much "better" it looks on paper. Years ago I bought a Rectifier cab, based on little more than Boogie's reputation, and a couple of friends who liked them. Hated the thing...couldn't get a decent tone out of it no matter what I did...and it cost twice as much as my old Marshall 4x12 that is now 30+ years old and still sounds great. Play it first...with YOUR guitar. If you like it, you've got a new toy.

The Soldano models are some of my favorites. It has a natural EQ that works well with both single coils and humbuckers.

Yup, love the overdrive for leads...it sings.

Don't beat on it, but it does take a little pressure to engage/disengage that knob. If its working as it should (deep breath everyone...its the knob again...sigh...), the knob should depress slightly, then return to neutral position, and the light should turn off.

Doesn't sound to me like you're on the fence at all...I've really wanted to like stuff before too. If you have to talk yourself into liking it...then it's not really your cup of tea.

but is it ok to run pre-amp models with no cabs? Also should I have my output set on studio direct or combo amp? I just want the best sound with or without Pre-amp modeling. Any suggestions or pointers would be great. Thanks

Its all a matter of taste. What "sounds best" for your amp might sound like baked a$$ on mine, or vice versa. Forget the "correct" way to set things up. All the different output options are doing is applying different EQ curves to the signal...no way it will work universally for every amp out there...especially when you are going straight into the front of a combo, becuase you are then running the patch through the combo's preamp, whcih will further color your sound.

There are a number of options, none of which are "wrong". Pre-amps only or full models...doesn't matter. With or without cab models...doesn't matter. You'll probably find that you'll use various combinations, depending on which amp model ur using, and the sounds you're looking for...clean vs. dirty. Just trust your ears...if it sounds good, who cares how you got there?

Which year did they fix the switch?   Looking at my serial, the new JTB59  I just purchased is a 2012.

The question really is, did they fix it at all? Acknowledging an issue and fixing it are two different things. Problems are still being reported...are they all older guitars? Maybe, maybe not...

Ok so I am considering purchasing the POD HD500X because I am looking for a multi-effects processor with many different options and the ability to have many different presets. But what I want to do is run the effects from the POD but still have my particular amplifiers tone.

 

Now I have a Bugera 333xl head with a B-52 4x12 cab, and I want to keep that tone and only use the POD for the effects.

 

I have seen and read about the 4 cable method and I have the ability to do that with my effects loop, but when I go onstage I usually have to setup quickly, so I was wondering if it's still possible to just plug the guitar into the POD and have the other cable go straight to the front of my Bugera head and use no amp tones (from the POD) and only the effects but I can't seem to find a straight answer out there. 

 

I am looking forward to your responses and thanks in advance for the help.  

You can do that, but then you are stuck with having all your fx before the pre-amp in your head. Many fx, especially delay and reverb are best placed after the pre-amp. Exceptions being thins like a wah, or volume pedal. If the amp has an effects loop, you're gonna be better putting the POD in there, and plugging straight into your amp...get your basic tone first, then mess with effects. Just my $0.02.

You should hear the difference in sound through some Klipsch Palladium columns with a Rogue Audio Atlas Magnum stereo tube power amp and an AES AE-3 MKII tube preamp. You'd cringe. I do.

 

 

If that's what you've got in the living room, I'm coming over, lol. I'll bring the beer...

Its been said like 4 times already, but its worth repeating. Just order yourself any of the VDI cables suggested above now...I've worked with drywall thats more flexable than the stock cable.

Never used one, but if I had to guess, I'd think you'd want it first thing in the chain right after the guitar. Given its function, seems like it would need a clean, dry signal to work with.