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Posts posted by cruisinon2

  1. Any who.. My experience with this amp is a very positive one. Way to go Line 6!

    PS: The HD500x doesn't sound too shabby through it. Connected via MP3 input from the 500x's output. I was surprised.

    Sent from my iPad.



    Thats interesting...I guess the MP3 input is sort of like an fx return. Wouldn't have occurred to me to try that.

  2. nope still cant get it from the board . In edit I got it . I am just worried on site I wont have my laptop. and I might need to move a preset from one list to another. I am apparently not to bright because I have hit every combo but cant get this to work

    Load up the patch you want to move, then press SAVE once. The next screen that comes up will have destination choices. The first of the 4 small knobs below the screen allows you to choose which bank(set list)it will be saved to, and the second knob selects the patch number...1A, 1B, etc. Then press SAVE a second time, and you're done.

    • Upvote 1
  3. Hmm... Would someone with more cash (just had to get these Line6's and 2 keyboards, so i will be poor 'til 2134) just go, buy one and hook it up with some kinda Dyno tester for amps, eh?


    Funny, how i managed to compleytely miss the word "peak" in all this... Will eating a hat or two cure blindness by any chance? Guess i better get one of them hipster-Fedoras to find out.


    Only if the hat is rich in Vitamin A...and they'll only sell you those hats at the Hipster Lid Emporium if you're sporting at least 3 days' growth (comfirmed in house by striking a match on your face), and agree to surrender all razors and shaving creams/gels, etc. at the door. Then you have to sign a document asserting that everything that's ever been popular, in fact sucks. Otherwise, prepare to be silently judged, and it's off to the sporting goods store for a baseball cap. :D

    • Upvote 2
  4. Thanks man! We will see.. if not.. looks like I will be playing more out of my 5150 amp w/fx loop! :)


    I just love that little spider amp in my bedroom. Do you know if any of the spider amps have a fx loop in the back? I know they are primarily for effect built-in and sound great, but I think the Line6 heads have fx loops. Just wondered if that mkII combo amp did...





    The Spider Valve series might...and should for the price, but I don't think that any of the solid state ones do.  I've got the HD150 head...it has no fx loop. But that stays at the rehearsal space in case anything else craps out. There's so much fx junk in there, at $250 (with the MKII floorboard...both used) for a spare amp, I didn't care.

  5. Might sound stupid (and it is), but more than once on the 500x...and other devices throughout the ages...I've been guilty of simply not seating any one of several stupid 1/4" jacks all the way, leading me to the conclusion that something was "broken", when in fact I was just an idiot, lol. :wacko: Sometimes you'll get no sound, a hollow-ish sound, horrible screaching, L or R only...then after much head scratching, and the dreading of ex$pen$e, St. Stunod smiles upon me, and I'm back in business, lol.

  6. Hey Guys - 


    I'm just wondering if anyone has used the Spider IV amp  with a external Eventide PitchFactor pedal? I know the amp doesn't have the standard FX loop, just wondering if running direct sounds good... or to see if anyone has done it?






    Anything is possible...but in 25+ years, unless it's a pedal with true bypass circuitry, I've never been able to get anything to sound decent running straight into the front of any amp I've owned. If it's not how it colors your tone when the effect is turned off, then it's the extra noise that gets generated, and a noise gate will only do so much, usually at the expense of sustain. If it doesn't have an fx loop, or so many onboard fx that I won't need anything else, I don't even bother looking at it anymore.  Just my $0.02.

  7. Replacing the screws isn't a big deal.  For a few pennies per screw you can have decent ones that won't give you problems.


    Oh I know...just seems the list of sub-standard parts keeps growing. Already considering a different neck, as the nut spacing is absurdly small for me. Do most of my playing on a custom build that has the widest neck I've ever seen on an 6 string electric guitar, and a nearly flat...almost classical guitar radius...so this has been quite an adjustment for me. Some things I just flat out cannot play below the 4th or 5th fret.

  8. I have been using Customtone for the last 3 years and honestly there was never 50,000 patches for the HD500.... That means there would have been thousands of pages. When I first bought my HD500 there were about 40 pages of patches.  I watched as that number grew to 500 when I bought my HD500X.  I always eagerly waited as new patches would show up, but now it looks like they are organized alphabetically which kind of stinks imho..... 



    I have no idea how many tones there are/were at any given time.  What I do know is that I don't want to wade through 50,000 of anything to find the 10 (and I think that's being generous) that I'd find useful. I'd die of old age by the time I found "my" tones.


    I suffer from CTD (constant tweaking disease) too...but good god it's easy to spend 3 hours doing nothing but that and forget to actually play something. Gotta remind myself to knock it off sometimes. Unless something's seriously broken, it's always "close enough for rock 'n' roll"! :)

  9. This is amazing how deceptive companies can be to most musicians. L2 at 800 watts is not really 800 watts at all. It's listed as 800 watts Peak power, which means it can handle spikes of sound at a max of 800Watt. What you need to know is the continuous power handling, but unfortunately Line 6, and most other companies, don't list that. My guess is that continuous power for the L2 is between 150 watts to 200 watts based on the fact that Peak Power is usually up to 4 times "continuous power".


    Actually I wouldn't be surprised if any tube amp rated 50 watts will be much louder than an L2 and no body needs to eat their hats except for the companies who think it's cute to only list the peak power when they know it's the least meaningful to how loud an amp is!


    Perhaps you're right...but I've been told I need more roughage, and the hat will taste better than anything I cook anyway. :P

  10. This is just a link to the typical procedure



    Wow...I will forever remain mystified at the patience required to pull off something like that, and I had front row seats for a custom build that I had done for me years ago...saw it in various stages along the way, so I get what's involved, but when you lay it all out in pics like that it's crazy. Hats off to anybody who can do that!


    I get cranky when the cable box doesn't respond to the remote fast enough... ;)

  11. Thanks for reminding me of that!  It's probably a year since I've been inside the spring cavity - just plain forgot that was there.  That is indeed the obvious place to connect in the new pickups.  I also didn't realize they relied on the metal bridge parts for ground return.  That doesn't thrill me at all.  Doesn't take much build-up of corrosion or crud around the bridge pieces to start affecting a hi-Z source like the piezo pickups.


    lol...Bridge Crud would be a great Low-Fi/ Emo band name. :lol:

  12. Well I got my problem sorted out.  The fix was a bit of a duh moment, and I'm almost embarrassed that it took me as long as it did to figure out how to correct it.  


    What I had to do is change the global string volume settings from the edit menu.  I searched the forums and heard people talking about how this acts as a type of pre gain.  Lowering it by 5-6db did the trick. 


    I didn't even know that setting was there.  I don't use workbench all that much, probably because I can't connect through my HD500 and have get out a separate interface, and just never noticed that setting in the edit menu.  


    I had been adjusting the the string volume on the patch, but that didn't do anything to help the problem.  


    As to why the signal was so hot and clipping I couldn't say.  My JTV-59 never had that issue.


    So all is well again thankfully!


    It seems that there is considerable variation with piezo output...it's also odd that along with the 2.0 update, the default global string volumes are not all at 0db. I toggled back and forth between 1.9 and 2.0 a few times, just testing things out...each time I reflashed 2.0, the volumes werwe set at  0db, -3.1db, 0db, -6.0db, 0db, -6.0 (low E to high E). I've got them all set at -6db now, plus some individually tweaked models.

  13. Remove one that is not stripped and take it with you to a good hardware store that has metric setscrews.  Relieve the string tension before moving those screws and I would replace them all because the originals are junk and the  tools that come with the JTV are garbage.


    Jeez...why do I get the feeling that I'm gonna be replacing the whole bridge at some point, if not an entire transplant? :wacko:

  14. Nuts, eh? Well that makes two of us.


    It may be, that we are just blind. Maybe we've missed the small print, where Line6 says that "in our infamous L2m we have 800W in 2 ohms, but we've managed to create a 128ohm speaker system which of course reduces our loudness a bit". ;)

    LOL...OK, I give up. It'll either melt your face off, or it won't. Oh, what a glorious mystery... :D

  15. I agree with you that the L2m should be fine, and that plenty of people have stated that it is really loud and plenty loud enough for a live band - so the OP should be fine with it.  :)


    But I disagree that we can assume it's louder than a 50w tube combo just because it has a declared power of 800w - the wattage alone does not equate to the actual volume that can be achieved. You also have to take into account the ohm's of the speaker(s) it is running into.   4 ohm speakers will give more watts than 8 ohm speakers.  Our band had a Yamaha CP2000 power amp - a 2000 watt amp - and the manual states that this amp will provide 650W + 650W into 4 ohm stereo or just 450W + 450W into 8 ohm stereo, 2000W into 4 ohm bridged and 1300 into 8 ohm bridged.    Watts don't necessarily equate and more watts doesn't necessarily mean louder.  That's all I was trying to say.    :)


    It's always easy to make discussions more complicated than they need to be...and that's the territory we're crossing into now, lol. :)


    All of what you said is true, but it doesn't really apply here. Impedance missmatches are a whole other ballgame. Mixing amps and cabs with different impedance ratings can certainly present problems. But the 50w Peavey combo and L2M are self-contained units, so this isn't an issue. And while an absolute apples to apples comparison might not be possible without getting out the calipers and decibel meters, I still say that if you're looking at 2 amps on paper, and one is 50w and the other 800w...it's such a divide that you'll get a pretty good idea which one will be louder [assuming no impedance issues] without even plugging them in. But who knows...maybe I'm nuts.



  16. Yes - you would think that 800 watts vs 50 watts is quite a difference and in mathematical terms it is, but in terms of determining the loudness of a particular amp it really is meaningless.  This has confused the heck out of me over the years but I know from experience that the watts declared do not equate to the loudness.  I bought a 150 watt reference amp for home recording use, and it runs through some Tannoy reveal monitors and I often have it turned up to max and it sounds like a moderately loud hi-fi and it is not as loud as my Sessionette 75 watt solid state guitar combo with 1x12 turned up to about a quarter.  Same with my DT25 - just 25 watts max apparently - but it is plenty loud enough to play in a live band situation to get above the drums and everyone else.  I also have a B210D - 200 watt active PA speaker - that gets loud but has to be almost at max to compete with the DT25 in terms of volume and punching through the mix.


    I agree - I think the L2m will be loud enough for a live band (and I have seen plenty of threads where people have reported it as loud) but I cannot say with any degree of certainty that it will be as loud or louder than the Peavey 50watt tube combo.  The L3m is rated at 1200watts and I think has a larger speaker (I haven't checked the specs recently), so will obviously be louder and pack more of a punch. 


    Ideally the OP needs to try both and see which one compares with his amp - perhaps he can get them both on a 30 day return promise via mail order and send back the one that he doesn't need.  Personally I think the L2m will be fine but he needs to try it to be sure.





    Well a protracted debate isn't gonna help anyone.  But to declare wattage comparisons meaningless is, quite frankly...meaningless. If the number never mattered, every spec sheet in the world would read "Power: We don't know, and it doesn't matter anyway.". I've owned a million pieces of gear over the years too, and in the typical guitar amp range of 25w to 150w, yes there is wide variation in perceived volume that isn't always linear with wattage, especially when comparing tube vs. solid state. But the day I meet an 800w PA amp that can't out-thump a 50w combo, tubes or not, I'll eat my hat.  And given the tendency of people to complain around here, if the Stagesource line were so anemic that it can't beat out an amp with 1/16th the rated power, people on this forum would be screaming from the rooftops about it all day long...Line 6 would never hear the end of it. That, and Peavey 2x12s would be impossible to find, and the price would triple... ;)













  17. Remember we are comparing tube watts with solid state watts - and the L2M only has a 10" speaker - and we don't know what the Peavey 50 watt is running into - is it a 1x12 or 2x12 combo?  So I don't know what the actual dbs would be for each.  You would hope that the L2m can compete and hold it's own but I guess you don't really know unless you do a side by side comparison.  Having said all that - the L2m is designed to be used in a live band situation so it must be plenty loud enough to cut through and get above the drums, and I have seen threads on the forums where people have reported the L2 speakers as really loud.    


    ok, but we're still talking about 800 watts vs 50 watts...thats quite a difference. We've all played through 50 watt tube amps that can melt concrete, and will embarass their 100 watt or even 150 watt solid state counterparts, but I can't see it being an issue in this case. These things are really PA speakers that can function as  guitar amps. If its not the loudest thing in the room, it would be of no use as a PA, which is its primary function.

  18. Hi,

    Was recently given an iPhone 4 for Christmas. I found out that the device was compatible with Sonic Port and since GarageBand was included on the phone and Mobile POD was a free DL, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Sonic Port. I also purchased Audiobus, so I could use both apps (GarageBand and Mobile POD) at the same time. That is what started this whole problem which I'll get to next: To my horror, I discovered that Apple doesn't support using these apps at the same time on iPhone 4, rendering the marriage of Mobile POD and GarageBand null and void. You can use one...or the other, but you cannot use Mobile POD and GarageBand as a couple, which really, really sucks, since GarageBand's guitar rigs are among the fizziest, processed, crapola sounding amp models on planet earth. What to do?


    I've been looking for an iPhone 4S on the cheap, since its chip set is supported with these apps by Apple, but haven't had any luck yet. So that's one option. The other would be to get an iPAD mini, which has a much bigger display, and at my age, a more readable display is a plus. Here's my question: does the iPAD mini support using the AudioBus app to marry Mobile POD and GarageBand?


    Other than that, if anyone has other suggestions, I'm all ears. Thanks.



    Can't say for sure it it'll work with the Mini, but it does work with my 5th gen. iPod. Some of the tones are great, but the battery life when running even just Mobile POD and Sonic Port is LAUGHABLE. Get's even worse with garage band going at the same time. Now I'm sure that the iPad mini has a larger battery than the iPod 5, but I don't know by how much.  From fully charged, I can drain it dead in less than 2 hours, and the iPod is only a few months old, and doesn't get used all that much. It's also kinda ridiculous that Mobile POD can't run in the background, so you're not forced to have the screen on all the time, which is any device's biggest battery drain. So don't be too upset that it ain't working with your phone...I suspect the iPhone battery is of similar capacity, if not the same as the iPod. iPad Mini results might be a little better, I suppose.


    It's a great idea, but the Sonic Port really needs it's own power supply. Relying on the iOS device is simpler, but not terribly practical...and they sell this thing as a gigging tool as well as recording. As long as you don't mind charging your iWhatever between sets I guess...but as a all-in-one DAW/amp/interface, it doesn't really work, unless you don't mind stopping your gig/ recording session in the middle because you ran out of juice.





    What I'm talking about is not under the bridge, or related to circuit boards or soldering...it's on the top surface of the bridge itself, between the front of the low E string saddle and the post where the bridge pivots [directly behind the post actually]...I'll try and take a pic of it. Should have done it at the time before I put everything back together.



  20. Currently I am running the Pod HD500 into the power amp section of my peavey combo 50 watt tube amp. I've been wanting to go FRFR for a while now, so my question is would the L2M be loud enough to replace my amp or would I need the L3M. Thanks





     Well I've never played through one, but the L2M is an 800 watt amp...if it can't bury a 50 watt combo [tubes or not] in terms of volume, then something is very wrong with the Stagesource line.











    Sorry - wrong tweeze :-)


    BTW, I had read somewhere that the Ghost piezos were less "quacky" than others, despite the hotter output. But, I will comment with real data once I get them installed.

    My (biggest) issue wasn't the quack, but the fact that several of my saddles sounded very dead and/or had reduced volume. I had cleaned the pockets out and reseated them, put on new strings, etc, but nothing seemed to help. I had thought about getting the individual replacement saddles, but I think the Graph Tech saddle looks to just be a better design. I don't want to be replacing saddles on a regular basis... Hopefully the Graph Tech Ghosts work well...


    Good luck with it...seems like soldering straight to that board underneath the bridge would be much easier. Not sure what would be gained by stripping and splicing wires together...then again, I'm no expert.


    Anybody know why this wouldn't work?

  22. I used a single edge blade and very carefully cut the insulation enough to be able to remove it with my finger nails.  I did not have any tool that would strip that stuff cleanly.  Nice thing about tefflon insulation is that it won't melt when you solder the wires.  I should have taken a pic of my completed bridge before I reinstalled it.  The 500 used a flex circuit between the bridge and the PC board.  I soldered all of the wires to the flex circuit right under the bridge.



    Yes, that is the circuit board I was referring to. Pic link: https://app.box.com/s/uwegswh7110bippmzkgf


    I talked to Gray at Graph Tech and he thought this approach would work well. He noted that the Ghost saddles tend to be a bit hotter than the LR Baggs. So... I went ahead and ordered a set! Will post to this forum when I get them installed and tested.


    The reason I asked about the grounding scheme is that there isn't an apparent separate ground lead with the existing JTV saddles, although I haven't removed the RTV to look more closely.


    Out of curiosity - what kind of heated tweezers do you purchase, Iknowathingortwo? Looking at Amazon right now...





    Dunno about the tweezers...that was somebody else, lol.

    If the graphtech's are hotter than the jtv piezos, i'm wondering if that would exascerbate some of the issues that people have had with piezo "quack"...we all keep lowering string volumes to compensate, wouldn't this make it worse?

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