Jump to content

cruisinon2

Members
  • Posts

    7,994
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    229

Posts posted by cruisinon2

  1. On 12/10/2021 at 2:27 PM, Svenisak said:

    It's not unique! There are lots of manufacturers of Amp sims (Hardware & Software).

     

    So your "evidence" for Helix's lack of uniqueness is the fact that other modelers exist? That's flawless logic...lmao.

     

    I'm glad we settled this. Since they're all the same,  this entire discussion is worthless and irrelevant. Just pull a name out of a hat, and buy that one. Problem solved. 

    • Like 2
    • Upvote 2
  2. 26 minutes ago, phil_m said:

    Some people actually use this stuff to create music and pay the bills.

     

    And some just have an obsession with being in a constant state of acquiring the latest and greatest devices... it's a wonderful dopamine hit that lasts about 11 minutes, and then you're whipping out the credit card again for another fix. 3 cheers for a disposable economy! ;)

  3. 4 hours ago, Eclipse612 said:

    I actually have realized one thing today. While the problem still exists, it is definitely less disastrous if I am playing without a backing track. So I am starting to believe that only half of my problem is how to render the Helix tones through the Headrush in my room, while the other half is probably how to hear them when something else is playing in the background. I guess this is a similar problem, if not the same, to being able to "cut through the mix" when playing in a band (not sure if a backing track vs. a real band makes a difference frequency-wise when it comes to affecting what can be heard from the guitar).

     

    Any pointers for where to look at for good input on this topic? 

     

    You have just described the same problem encountered by everyone who has ever mixed a multi-track recording, be it at home on a laptop, or in a million dollar facility. The guitar tone that sounds magnificent on it's own will often sound terrible in a mix, and vice versa. Doesn't matter if it's a recording,  or playing live on stage... getting everything balanced so that individual instruments aren't stepping all over each other is an art in and of itself. That's why you see the same handful of names mixing album after album... if it was easy, anybody could do it.

     

    The short answer is that there are simply no universal settings or strategies that are guaranteed to work for everybody. Each track is unique... that's all there is to it. The tone that worked for Tune A, might not work at all in Tune B... it depends on what else is going on in the track. You can prove that to yourself just be playing along with backing tracks on YouTube. You might have a lead tone that works magnificently with one track, and completely disappears from the mix with the next. Learning to use EQ effectively is a trial and error exercise... the closest thing there is to "universal truth" , is that getting the sound you want is often more about removing  frequencies which are too prominent, as opposed to boosting those that seem to be lacking... otherwise you tend to end up with too much of everything. Cut first, boost second. For example, if the mids seems to be lacking, try backing off the lows/ lower mids first, instead of just automatically cranking the midrange frequencies.

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1
  4. 13 hours ago, johnsc2988 said:

    Once on the unit works great. I'm wondering if anyone also has this issue with their unit? If so are there any solutions?

     

    The switch is on its way out... eventually it'll $hit the bed altogether. Replacing it is the only solution.

  5. 22 minutes ago, themetallikid said:

    I hear all that.  I tried the Digitech and didnt like something about it.   I also knew that the Poly stuff was coming with the Helix so if I kept the Drop I was going to need to keep the Freqout to help with the E > Eb feedback issues live.  I didnt like the Freqout's tracking... probably more the way I was trying to implement it.  If I didnt keep the Freqout, I had no reason to keep the Drop...and the Poly stuff in the Helix works fine for me if I wanna go the 'Shift' route vs a true Variax approach.  

     

    I'm very intrigued by the Variax still......     Does cable length matter with the variax cable?  Are there length options?  

     

    I greatly appreciate the information

     

    www.btpa.com

     

    Length doesn't matter. It's a digital connection... the 1's and 0's either get from one end to the other,  or they don't. This place will make you any length VDI cable you want. A little pricey, but quite durable. Aside from the connectors, looks/ feels like any other guitar cable. I still have one of the L6 ones, but it's... oh, let's just call it "underwhelming", lol. It's so flimsy, it coils around itself like cheap ear bud wires... useless on stage. And I'm not talking about the one that comes with the guitar that only has the shell connector on one end, which is only intended for connecting to the ultra-silly USB dongle... this other one is a full blown VDI cable with the shell connectors on both ends... but everything between those connectors is crap, lol.

  6. 14 hours ago, themetallikid said:

    The wireless was going to be another question I had.  That may be a deal breaker for me then.  I've heard some people reference other units that compete with variax, I think Boss has one....any suggestions outside of L6?

     

     

    For alt tunings, yes... the Digitech Drop is quite a capable pedal, though it can't differentiate between individual strings, so you can't do open tunings, you can only drop the whole guitar by a given interval. But as for modeled guitars, as far as I know, Variax is it. Even if there is something else, it won't solve your wireless problem, unless you're content to make whatever changes you need on the fly on the instrument itself. Half the point of the Helix compatibility is so that you can both power the guitar, and change models and tunings at will with just the click of a footswitch... it works very well... just means using a cable

  7. The Variax world is a love it or hate it thing... you'll either take to it and think it's awesome, or you won't and you'll go back to the rest of your guitarsenal.

     

    It's a capable tool if you put the time in... Piezo outputs tend to vary...that means that you'll likely be balancing individual string volumes of whatever models you end up using. Some models seem to be affected by this more than others, don't ask me why.

     

    Also worth noting that if you intend to control everything on the Variax from Helix, it means being tethered to the VDI cable. If you're used to going wireless live, going back to a cable might be more annoying than you think. Drove me nuts... just my 2 cents.

  8. On 11/26/2021 at 4:14 PM, psycodad said:

    Hello,

    I buyed the Pod GO Wireless. I used it in three different locations and i had always drop outs. One location was wide and tall, the other boths where one bigger room and one smaller room. The battery light is green, the battery is full. After playing a while  (20min) i get drop outs, connection is lost. Mostly when i stand with my guitar in front of my 100W Amp and play really loud, the connection get lost. If i turn away the guitar fronm the amp, connection is found again.When i play at home, it works fine.
    COuld it be that loudness has an impact on function of the wireless system?

     

    Well I'm certainly no physicist...but logic tells me that high amplitude sounds waves can't magically knock a wifi signal out of the air.

     

    However, you do mention your position relative to the amp when the problem occurs... and given that the connection for this device relies on a clear line of sight between transmitter and receiver, my guess is that this where your problem lies. If facing your amp means that you've turned away from the PodGo, then you are now the obstacle between the transmitter and the receiver, which could explain the drop outs.

  9. 3 hours ago, superzult said:

    What about you? Do you also like these pickups? Or you even dislike them?

     

    The single coils are nice... noisy as f@&$, though...

     

    Quote

     

    P.S. treble roll-off is however horrible on the JTV when lowering the volume. Don't like that.

     

    Love it or hate, you just described every passive pickup on earth (to varying degrees), unless equipped with a treble bleed...

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  10. On 11/17/2021 at 12:26 PM, MGW-Alberta said:

    I will not enable automatic updating on any device.  I suppose it's fine if your equipment is less than six minutes old but if you're like me and you can't afford to buy a new phone or a new computer every 20 seconds the only safe option is to completely disable automatic updating and treat every new update with suspicion and extreme caution.  I learned the hard way too many times that updating without seriously investigating first can cost you your way of doing things, thereby costing you time and can also cost you money as well.  I only update if I am forced to and there are absolutely no other options. 

     

    Amen... don't even know what Mac OS I'm running, and couldn't care less. Maybe one day Apple will stop destroying all 3rd party software with every update... till then don't update unless you really enjoy frustration and profanity, lol.

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1
  11. On 11/12/2021 at 5:51 AM, Axxxeman said:

    Friend of mine has a Kemper, just plugs in, sounds great from the start. Forget Fletcher Munson, it just works!

     

    You can ignore the Fletcher/Munson curve if you want, but the fact is that it is very likely a large contributing factor to your problem. And I assure you that your friend's Kemper is not some mystical device, strangely immune to the effect that volume has on the human perception of loudness of different frequency ranges. It doesn't "just work" by accident... he dialed it in that way.

     

    You've made no mention of what you're listening through at home (or at what volume) to dial in your sounds. But I promise you that if you're using headphones and/ or studio monitors at comfy living room volume, then Fletcher- Munson is indeed an issue... and a big one. Worse would be running Helix through a traditional guitar amp at home, and then expecting those tones to translate to stage volume, through a PA... because then you've got two issues, completely different output devices and a large volume discrepancy.

     

    Your live tones must be dialed in through similar speakers (read: FRFR) to what you're playing through live, and at or as close as possible to stage volume. Otherwise you will wallow in $hitty tone limbo forever. There are no shortcuts or universal settings that will be a guaranteed solution for you. Only your ears can tell you when you're done, and there's zero guarantee that that what works for me, will work for you.

     

    Quote

     

     

    Or am I just too stupid to check out, how this connection can be performed satisfactorily?

     

    No, you're not stupid... you just don't know what you're doing yet. Nobody does when they first start fooling around with modelers. But the connections are not your problem... all they do is deliver a signal from A to B. The issue is learning to dial in sounds for a specific purpose. And if you can create sounds that you like through whatever you're using at home under those conditions, then you can do it live too. The process is no different, but your EQ curve will be...you just have to do it. But expecting one to translate to the other without making the necessary EQ tweaks is...unfortunately for us all... a fantasy, and will forever be a losing battle.

     

     

     

    • Thanks 1
    • Upvote 2
  12. 3 hours ago, stratgilmour said:

    Hate to buy something now if in a few months a new hardware pops up... I guess this is the story of everything (well maybe except guitars!) but still...

     

    SPOILER ALERT: There will be new hardware in a few months... there always is. If not from Line 6, then it'll be somebody else...and maybe that thing will suit your needs even better than Helix, whatever it turns out to be... or the next thing after that...ad on infinitum.

     

    Tech evolves faster than most can keep with, financially... unless you're filthy rich and can afford to buy one of everything that comes down the pike, finding a new "favorite whatever" every 6 months. But for the rest of us rabble, we eventually have to pick something, and stick with it for a while. So do that, and don't bother lamenting over missing out on "the next big thing", because nothing retains that title long enough to matter anymore.... otherwise you'll never buy anything.

    • Upvote 2
  13. 33 minutes ago, marinescudaniell said:

    This is the most sensible answer here.

     

    And yes, palm muting the A string sounds like mud and out of key, which is what we’re both describing. Thank you.

     

    Yup... because you're hearing two pitches, a whole step apart. Makes it pretty much useless.

     

    I will say though, that for tuning the whole guitar a half step down, the alt tunings work quite well. Just as good as my Digitech Drop pedal, and without the slight latency that pedal has. But for the drop tunings, it's a no-go... unless you're playing crystal clean arpeggiated stuff with no palm muting... then they're usable.

     

  14. On 8/28/2019 at 9:30 AM, lorgarforneus said:

    I've noticed that when I use a drop tuning on the Alt Tunings if I palm mute on strings higher than the low E it makes an odd warbling sound. I updated the firmware but that seems to make no change.

     

    I have seen from other posts this could be a setup issue, but they were having problems with all the alt tunings. When I use a standard tuning so all the strings are dropped evenly it works fine, it's just drop tunings that act weird. 

     

    Yup... and it's not likely to change. I had the same problem early on and did a great deal of troubleshooting to figure out what was going on... there's still a thread around here describing it in gory detail, but it's years old and you'll hafta dig to find it.

     

    The problem is crosstalk between the piezo saddles. When you palm mute, even if you're not playing anything on the low E string, your hand is still in contact with it, as well as the one (or more) other strings. That "bridge" for lack of a better term, results in the low E piezo saddle picking up some of the vibrations of the strings that are being played. In a drop tuning, that note(s) is then down tuned accordingly... along with the signal from the string that is actually being played which of course is not being altered. So for example if you're using drop D alt tuning  and mute on the open A string,  you'll hear the A as well as a G, because the low E piezo can "hear" the A string's vibrations, (albeit at a lower volume). The result is mud. High gain makes it worse. The drop tunings are of very limited utility.

     

    The reason that other alt tunings work ok is that when all the strings are being detuned by the same interval, then crosstalk is irrelevant... but when some strings are being detuned and others aren't, you've got a problem. The tech simply isn't perfect. The only real fix is to alter your playing technique so that you're not touching the low E string at all when palm muting on other strings... obviously this is easier said than done. Personally, I find it next to impossible in real world playing scenarios. As such I gave up on the drop tunings early on.

     

    You can prove this to yourself if you go into Workbench and turn the A string piezo volume to zero... then do some palm muting on the A string while using the drop D alt tuning.  Common sense tells you that you'd hear nothing at all coming through the amp with the volume of that string compete off... but you will hear it, and what you're hearing is the signal coming through adjacent low E piezo... and it'll be detuned.

     

     

    Quote

     

    I have debated removing the non-Variax pickup as I never use it anyway (my rig is Shuriken Variax Sr270 into a Helix Floor), but I wanna check to see if I can fix this problem without.

     

    The mag pickup has nothing to do with this issue. Removing it won't help.

     

  15. 9 hours ago, PhoenixCurtis said:

    Line 6 what the hell are you playing at!

     

    Two words: avoiding liability. It is what it is. If you want to continue to use an otherwise good product, then just bite the bullet and get the new version of the transmitter. Early reports from the wild indicate that it's on par with the pre- "update" battery life. Is this a $hitty situation? Yes. Should it cost you more money to continue to use a neutered product because some genius decided to charge their battery forever and burned the house down? No... but sometimes life is... well let's just call it "less than ideal". This is one of those times...

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...