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Posts posted by cruisinon2

  1. 12 hours ago, ehackster said:

    Hi, sorry for my late reply.


    I cannot find this accommodation text anywhere.



    And neither can anybody else..

     The "accommodation price" only exists in the screenshot he posted. As you've seen, when you actually go the page, it's clearly listed as a $99.99 item... don't ask me why, or how to become one of the magically "accommodated". It's also pretty obvious that the only answer you're likely to get here is "call support"...

  2. 25 minutes ago, TLF2007 said:

    Hi- I’m wondering what the solution was for this for you? I have just developed a similar issue.


    This is a 2 1/2 year old thread with no responses, and the OP hasn't logged in since the day he posted it... don't hold your breath for a reply. I suggest opening a service ticket...

    • Upvote 1
  3. 6 hours ago, lawrence_Arps said:

    You have not indicated a particular genre nor a fixation on a particular artists sound.  That bodes well for your mental health ;-)




    This is arguably the most accurate statement ever made around here...;)

    • Like 1
  4. What I think is meaningless. Your individual needs, where and how the device will be used (and the amount of abuse you expect it to be subjected to), and the size of your wallet are the determining factors... and you're the only one with those answers.

  5. On 9/9/2021 at 3:21 AM, marinescudaniell said:

    Should I attempt to fix this intonation issue if that's what it is myself, or do you recommend to take it to a guitar technician?



    There's nothing difficult about adjusting intonation... and doing it on a Variax is no different than any other guitar in the known universe. The recipe is always exactly the same... it's a mechanical issue involving bridge saddle position and the vibrating length of each string, and may or may not require adjusting the height of the mag pickups.


    If you own a decent tuner and are capable of turning a screw driver (or small hex wrench, as the case may be), then you are eminently qualified to adjust your own intonation. Detailed instructions on exactly how to determine what adjustments need to be made, and how to make them, are readily available on line from any number of sources... check youtube.

  6. 5 hours ago, cubbini said:

    My JTV69 works just fine, but I'm very concerned that, if I need to replace a bad piezo, I'm gonna be out of luck!  What would some options be?  I know I'm opening up a can of worms....(tried ordering some from Full Compass... no go.)


    1) You don't really have many simple options beyond finding an OEM replacement somewhere. Graphtech makes piezo saddles, but whenever you start mucking around with third party replacements, you risk screwing things up, unless you really know what you're doing. 


    2) SPOILER ALERT: Everything breaks eventually, so you can stop worrying about the "if" part... and it's equally ridiculous to waste your life away worrying about when it's gonna happen. There's no reason to assume it won't last a good long time. My JTV is 8 years old, and works just fine. Don't swing it around your head on stage trying to imitate Yngwie, and don't store it on the front porch of your beach house, and it'll be fine for years on end. 

  7. On 9/10/2021 at 1:03 PM, brue58ski said:


    I have a Vetta II and it had a Loudness parameter that, when turned on, would incorporate a Fletcher Munson curve as you turned the volume up. I can't say that I noticed a big difference but i never really investigated how well it worked. Never did a comparison. The main thing is I haven't seen it in any other Line 6 products. I am not familiat with any of the other Line 6 amps so don't know if any of them had this parameter.


    12 hours ago, soundog said:

    All my old stereos back in the 70s had a LOUDNESS switch on them intended for making things sound better at low volumes. It basically turned up the bass and treble, but perhaps they mysteriously applied a carefully calibrated Fletcher Munson curve. I like the idea of a volume knob that would compensate the EQ as you turned it up or down. Seems like a simple thing to engineer. And perhaps something easy to market. Like laundry detergent magic crystals.




    The problem with these features is that they're just an approximation...a "best guess" EQ curve that will mitigate the problem in some instances, but not others... the "Loudness" feature that lots of stereos used to have was designed for some theoretical "average" use, when listening to commercially released  finished mixes on consumer level playback systems. The odds of having it work successfully when applied to a single guitar tone is slim to none.


    Bottom line is the quick fix that everybody wants ain't coming. There is simply to much variability in perception from one person/scenario to the next for there to be a "one size fits all" solution.


    What will work though, 100% of the time, is the same as it's always been: Dial in sounds specifically for their intended use, under the same (or as similar as humanly possible)  conditions. The end. Is it inconvenient and time consuming? Yup. Will there ever be a day that any of us are 100% happy, and done tweaking sounds? Very doubtful. Would I avail myself of some universal push-button solution should there ever be one that proved reliable? You bet your a$$, I would. Am holding my breath for this bag of magic wonderfulness to appear? F*&% no...



    4 hours ago, Laserheart said:

    Yes, they are all the same speaker.  My question is whether or not they have different EQ setups.  One is marketed as a drum amp, and another is marketed as a guitar amp.


    "Marketed" being the operative term here... Brochures say lots of things. Mostly they say whatever the advertising department thinks will make a particular demographic most likely to part with their money... and it's nearly always bull$hit. You can make just about anything sound fancy and suited to a particular task if you do it right. Just ask the army...They refer to a nut... as in the things that screws go into... as a "hexa-form rotatable surface compression unit". You do the math, lol...

    • Haha 2
  9. 2 hours ago, brue58ski said:

    But you give them the stolen device and the perp's name and address that probably did it,


    Well that's just it... what are the odds that the thief just happens to be a local guitar player stealing for himself and intent on remaining in possession of the stolen goods? Slim to none... stolen goods get flipped, within hours or days of the theft. So whomever ends up in possession of it bought in on eBay or from some pawn shop or music store, blissfully unaware of where it came from. Can't just automatically perp-walk the poor slob off to jail, dripping head to toe with reasonable doubt.


    So yes...there would have to be an investigation, which is why it is a complete and utter waste of time and resources for all but the most insanely valuable of items. They'll take your report because they have to, but it'll be so far down on their to-do list that the cop who wrote it up... his kid will graduate from the academy before anybody follows up on anything. It might be emotionally satisfying to get stuff back, and I'm sure it occasionally happens...but it's just dumb luck. 99.97% of the time nothing will get done, and your stuff is long gone and ain't coming back.

  10. 1 hour ago, silverhead said:

     I’d bet (and hope) that following up on a situation like this would be wa-a-a-y down the list of law enforcement priorities.


    And that's precisely my point... outside of Mayberry, law enforcement has far more pressing concerns than chasing after somebody's missing guitar toys. They might not laugh right in your face when you file the report...but they'll definitely be laughing at the bar about the guy who ran hell bent for leather to his local precinct, waving an email, expecting them to move heaven and earth to rescue a kidnapped delay pedal... hell, unless it's a missing Picasso,  the way the gov't spends money, the time spent filling out the paper work will cost more then the value of most stolen items by several orders of magnitude. Insure your crap. The end.


  11. This is one of those things that probably sounded like a swell idea after the 3rd bong hit, but what is anyone to actually do with this "alert" once received? What little actionable info there'd be reeks of hearsay. Go ahead and stroll into a police station and tell them that you got an email from L6 claiming that your gear that was stolen 11months ago in Hackensack has allegedly surfaced in French Lick, Indiana. What are they gonna do...get on the phone with another LE agency half-way across the country and have them deploy the SWAT team? It's not gold bouillon looted from Fort Knox...there will be no cross-jurisdictional/ inter-agency cooperation for your stolen toy... nobody spends resources that way. Want piece of mind? Insure your stuff, and if it vanishes, cash the check and go shopping. That's the only way you'll be made anything close to whole again....

    • Upvote 2
  12. 21 hours ago, marinescudaniell said:

    Speaking of batteries, mine seems to completely lose it's charge if I leave it in the guitar over night. Even if it's 3/4 full as indicated by the LED lights on the back of the guitar, the next day - it's flat. Do I need a new battery?


    Are you leaving it on a stand with the 1/4" cable plugged in? If so, that's your problem... plugging it in is the equivalent of an "on" button.


    If that's not the case, then yes... If say you have a deceased battery.

  13. 19 hours ago, jcmathews said:

     The 5s. Like I Said, they're working pretty well for me right now. 

    I think that goes without saying, but maybe I should have said it anyway, lol. What I really mean is, I don't want to build tones on the FRFR that sound good on it but lousy through FOH -- and vice versa.


    Volume differences loom large when it comes to the perception of tone, and will always be the biggest factor when making these comparisons... it won't matter how similar the speakers you tweak with at home are to the PA system(s) you play through live, if there's a significant enough volume discrepancy between the two scenarios.


    In fact, you could drag the PA home from a gig and set it up in your living room... but if you then proceed to dial in your tones at a nice comfy volume for you and the neighbors, then the next time you crank up to stage volume, I guarantee that what you'll hear will be a horrible mess. Perceived loudness is not linear across the frequency spectrum, and the curve changes dramatically with increases  in volume. Our brains are f*cked up in this regard, it screws with our perception of sound, and there's not blessed thing you can do about it, save one: Dial in your tones at (or very close) to the volume at which you intend to use the patches... otherwise prepare to be chronically disappointed with how things sound on stage.

    • Like 2
  14. 3 hours ago, ArthurBoutellis said:

    Hello everyone,


    I have some trouble understanding what "parameters" refers to in the guide, and which of those can be changed in snapshots.


    The short answer is "essentially everything"... in fact, I don't think I've stumbled on any parameter,  in any block, that can't be controlled with snapshots.




    I know that snapshots lets you toggle blocks on and off, but is it also possible to change the value of some of the parameters within a block (let's say, the amount of distorsion, the amount of delay etc), or the global volume of the preset (the one you see when pressing multi) ? I tried it and when I change something within a block, it automatically changes it in all the other snpashots as well.


    You have to manually assign each individual parameter that you wish to control with snapshots...otherwise you're not actually using the snapshot function at all. There is a limit of 64 parameters that can be controlled by snapshots within each individual patch... but unless your patches are insanely complex, I doubt you'll ever come close to hitting that wall.


    Treat each snapshot as it's own discrete entity. Set one up as you see fit,  and save the patch. At this point, the remaining snapshots are all identical to the first, by default... that's just the way it is. Then proceed to the second one, making whatever changes you want, always saving the patch once you're done. Lather, rinse, repeat...


    • Upvote 1
  15. On 9/2/2021 at 12:07 PM, andysusu said:

    Unfortunately, the voltage in my area is 220v... Why other the international version Helix rack support 100v~240v not applicable to Japan? Why make a only 100v for japan? This is very illogical...


    Well it may or may not be illogical... but either way, it's definitely irrelevant.


    So Japan has a weird electrical grid, and/or rules about power supplies on consumer grade electronics .. who cares? Finding out "why" might be useful if you were a 'Jeopardy' contestant, but otherwise, it won't solve your problem. And continuing to fixate on it is particularly useless when a perfectly good solution exists, and is both inexpensive and readily available. Get a transformer... problem solved.

    • Upvote 1
  16. 58 minutes ago, scrinson said:



    I have a defective scribble strip (no text) and a number of intermittent foot switches. I'm in the UK and there doesn't appear to be a supplier who can provide these parts - I've tried full compass and they're out of stock and Sontec (no response). Does anyone have any first hand experience or pointers regarding purchasing spares? I'm more than happy to replace myself.






    Finding anything at the moment is a pain in the arse...the whole world is out of just about everything. Supply chain/ inventory issues for everything from thumb tacks to skivvies. Plus, the stuff you're looking for is ultra-specific, and was sometimes hard to find, even in the Before Times. Hurry up and wait...


    At the moment, if it's still under warranty, a service ticket might be the quickest way to get it done...

  17. 15 minutes ago, Paulzx said:

    Yep it remains a mystery, I tried the PC1 in my spider 2 amp and although i don't really like the sound coming out of that amp,

    the guitar is hotter and more punchy.


    The go to method on helix for high gain patches has always been - add a screamer distortion pedal at zero gain, to front of chain, followed by your high gain

    amp block plus whatever cab or IR, that method has worked for the most part with my other guitars, but with the PC1 I'm finding that I either want to crank the

    gain on the screamer, or the amp block itself, up to max - or even add a second distortion pedal to the chain!


    I never normally do any of that, but with the PC1 it's just lacking punch in the high gain and I end up trying the above, that shows you how underwhelming

    it is, yet the guitar itself has a reputation of being the opposite!


    Well I'm out of ideas, then.... it's obviously not the guitar, as it works with other amps. Yet at the same time, it's hard to blame the Helix because your other instruments don't produce the same symptoms. 


    You could always throw a gain block at the front of the chain... it's "inexpensive" in terms of DSP, and might help some...but what's causing the problem is beyond me. I own a dozen guitars, with a variety of pickup types, configurations, some old, some new, etc...and I've never experienced anything remotely like what you're describing.

  18. I'm eventually gonna need new brake pads on my ride...I don't know exactly when that'll be, I just know it's coming.  All I can do is periodically check and see how much meat is left... and when they're shot, they're shot.


    Anything can fail... whether it actually will or not is anybody's guess. But Joe Average User will not be able to predict from afar if, or when what you've described might become an issue.


    If it's gonna keep you up nights, open a service ticket and see what they tell you. Otherwise, just play... if it craps out one day, deal with it...but worrying about it every day between now and then won't make it any less likely to happen. 

    • Haha 1
  19. 29 minutes ago, Paulzx said:

    I don't know, it does seem like a stretch doesn't it?


    Just a bit, lol.


    It's bad enough that modeling, as good as it currently is, still draws ire from the "analog purists" of the world... but if it were actually the case that one's prized '72 Les Paul simply wouldn't work with a modeler because the electronics were "too old", the industry would never hear the end of it...

  20. 20 minutes ago, Paulzx said:

    On another forum for Jackson guitars, someone mentioned it's probably the electronics in the older Jackson, seemingly not working properly with the newer modellers,

    whereas the newer PC1's electronics presumably are updated and do work as expected.


    I won't pretend to be able to diagnose your problem remotely... all anyone can do is offer guesses. But this is really grasping at straws and  doesn't make any sense at all. With few exceptions, guitar pickup technology hasn't changed appreciably in decades...a humbucker is a humbucker. There's no earthly reason that "old pickups" won't work properly with a modeler. I have several guitars that are more than 20+ years old, with all the original electronics, and they work just fine with Helix, and any other modelers or plug-ins that I've used in recent years.





  21. 1 hour ago, datacommando said:

    "...and they're not going to upset any Helix/HX users."




    Oh, I think we've all been hanging around here long enough to know that even if the update came with free $100 bills, once a week for life, plus a backstage pass to the Victoria's Secret fashion show, the Cranky Contingent would still whine that everything on their personal wish list wasn't included...;)

    • Haha 2
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