Cody_smith

You can use any 110 ohm  aes/ebu cable. There are really cheap ones at monoprice but I don't know the quality of them. 

If the amp has a midi input then probably. If it does not have a midi input then no. What is the amp?

2 hours ago, donmr said:

Might it be something like phantom power being accidentally applied to the XLR outputs that scrambled the unit? I vaguely remember mention of something like that. Hmmm...

Phantom power shouldn't have messed up your Helix. My understanding is that phantom power will not hurt Helix, it just messes with the sound  while its on. 

If you are just controlling one amp and just the channel, not reverb or effects built into the amp, you can use a TS cable. For controlling 2 things you will need a trs cable. 

First press the settings button (the one with 3 horizontal lines). Then out of the options go to command center, I think the third knob. This should bring up a graphic that looks like a helix floor or helix control. Go to the switch location you want to assign the amp channel control to.

The first knob turn until it says ext amp. The second knob turn to both if just controlling one channel. If you want to call control 2 things you have to figure out which one is sleeve and which one is ring and assign them accordingly. 

Generally if you are playing directly into a real amp you are not going to use modeled amps, preamps, or cabinet sounds. But that is a basic guideline. If you want to experiment with using the preamp sounds or even the full amp sounds I recommend doing it with no cab or IR model. Also check the settings for output on helix for instrument and line level and try both to see if that helps with the sound your trying to get. Then mess around with with some of the different EQ blocks in helix after that to see if that helps you recreate the sound you are going for, and helps you find the feedback frequency you are trying to get. I haven't used a Digitech RP500 but since its an older and cheaper product I'm guessing the cabinet modeling in it was probably acting as more of a basic EQ, while cabs in helix or IRs are creating a very complex EQ that might not help you (or it might but I would try that last)

before your effects for wet signals, put a send block. mix it so signal is passing through it to the rest of the chain and to the send out put you are using. Plug the send into the dry amp. If there are stereo versions of the wet FX you are using you can just run them in the same path then to the main out puts left and right. If you are using mono effects either use them first and then go to the stereo fx, or split the path use the mono effect in both paths (if you want them on both signals)  then out to your left and right out puts. 

The physical connections would be outputs L and R into your left and right wet amps, and the send goes to your dry amp.

If you are not using the fx loops you can run one of those to a DI box and plug into FOH and still use some effects on the  real acoustic or fake acoustic sound. You can maybe get an okay-ish sounding fake acoustic sound out of an electric. The way I've done it is using the IR into a mic pre, which I don't think is on the HX FX, you might be able to use something else to boost the signal a bit, into some reverb, a cali graphic EQ into a LA studio compressor. I do some hi and low cuts on the IR and do some more EQing with cali. 

If you decide to go down the FRFR path, but you also like Amp in the room, look into power cab, it kinda does both, so you could have it playing an amp cabinet sound then switch it to FRFR mode for acoustic sounds. 

I pretty much never use HX edit. For me it's more intuitive to just use the hardware.

20 minutes ago, tappistrt said:

Yeah I was considering something like this too. And I think you have your descriptions a bit mixed up: Both the HX Effects and the Stomp have 2 loops,

Yep I'm totally wrong on that, I've been slightly off on stuff I thought I knew today. That means that setup with Stomp and FX makes absolutely no sense. Something to keep in mind if you are looking at LT is that it only has 2 fx loops as well ( I verified this... twice) 

For outputs you could go 1/4 outs to amp and xlr out to PA. You might also be able to do some panning stuff, but then you'll have to run parts of the chain through the same signal path, if you pan everything right it wouldn't bleed together but it might be confusing. I always confuse myself when I'm doing much simpler things with panning in helix.

42 minutes ago, Kilrahi said:

 

We've already seen a few posters on here who had phantom power kill their sound.  We've had others it was fine . . . but it does seem to impact the Stomp just like it does the full size Helix. 

If some people are having issues maybe use di box to be safe. I guess you never know what crazy stuff an old beat up mixer might be sending,

I just know I read that DI (eric) said on TPG that phantom power shouldn't effect stomp. 

https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/foh-says-my-hx-stomp-is-clipping.2028299/page-2

I thought I had read it in the manual too, but maybe I'm thinking of something I read in the Powercab manual. 

Phantom power definitely effects Helix Floor though, took me too long to figure that out when it was an issue.

 

The HX stomps 1/4" outs can be used with balanced or unbalanced cables, and are not affected by phantom power. You could use any trs to xlr cable or adapter and not worry about a di box if you don't want to. 

4cm takes up an fx loop, and the meris in stereo takes 2, so that leaves you with 1 loop. So yes you would have to add something like the disaster area to get the additional i/o you need, you just won't have control of the effect order. 

Maybe getting an HX stomp (2 loops and amp models)  and an HX fx ( 4 loops no amp models) would work out better if you can rout everything right. And use midi from the HX fx to control the stomp. It might be a bit more convoluted but might actually be cheaper and you might not have to use a midi looper like the disaster area. 

20 hours ago, JLondon said:

Let me add to the list of DSP complainers then (grin).  I have a huge problem with DSP on my Helix floor when trying to use more than one IR cab - and the top half of my chain is typically pretty simple as I have come to prefer to use snapshot changes in amp gain over using a lot of gain pedals in front of the amp.  The difference between even just 1 cab IR and a stock cab can easily cost you as much as 3 blocks - and if you want 2 IRs or more than one amp sim on the top half of your chain you can forget it (some effect pedals/amps use more DSP than others of course).  I don't have a Powercab yet, but I'm definitely looking forward to being able to use its onboard IR or stock cab to free up my floor Helix chain options.

Are you trying to use multiple cabinet IRs simultaneously or switching between them? you can set the IR block to change the IR its using to snapshots.

On 3/2/2019 at 11:43 AM, rsvette12 said:

Thanks Guys :)

 

I will use Helix built in version for now - just curious 

Just so you are aware the Helix does not have a Digitech Drop model. It does have some pitch shifting that is meant for single notes not chords. Some people have tried using it polyphonic and have gotten it to work but anytime I try it like that there are digital artifacts.  Line 6 has said they are working on polyphonic effects, probably including polyphonic pitch shifting but that might be a couple of updates away. (I'm really hoping the pitch shift will work with clean chords and also virtual capo)

So try it and see if it works for you but it may not, also if you hear both the original pitch and new pitch at the same time check that the mix parameter is at 100%.

I'm planning pretty far ahead here (10-12 months) to buy a powercab plus. I like using cables in cable looms to make one big cable running in between things, so I want to run a l6 link cable and a long iec cable together. I know that generally it can cause interference to run data or audio cables next to power cables but has anyone tried this and have issues? Or are aes or l6 link cables pretty resistant to interference?

So far I'm really liking my G10s, but I have only been using it around the house, I haven't used it for anything important. The transmitter is pretty tiny, I highly doubt you would hit it on anything, and when it's plugged in it seems pretty solid, it's not going to fall out on accident at least not on my guitar. The G10s comes with a right angle adapter that makes it compatible with most active guitars. I haven't used the adapter so I don't if using it makes it seem like its dangling and loose. I think its pretty convenient to just plug it into the receiver and charge it and automatically check channels.

My predictions are if they did come out with a Helix 2 sometime soon the only way it would probably screw you over is if you needed more DSP. The helix  software is going to be here for awhile. DI said recently that the 6 effect limitation to HX Stomp would make sense in a year after he said something about polyphonic effects taking a lot of DSP and new Amp models might take more DSP. That makes me think that if they did a revision it with be the same HX software but on a "Helix Pro" or something that has a 50-100% more available DSP and maybe the way they have been using the expression and footswitch jacks on HX FX and Stomp so that you can use all of those jack for anything you can think of.

I doubt there will ever be a way to disable adding a mic when using speaker mode. speaker mode is tied to the specific speaker in powercab so trying to disable the mic would probably give some weird results or at least wont sound the same in a different cab/ or and frfr 

If you are looking for a mic'ed cabinet sound you should look for an impulse response for that cabinet. the Powercab speaker modeling is an amp in the room feel so it would not include the mic. It does work as an frfr cabinet as well so using an impulse response would work

It has always struck me oddly that the Mono vs. Stereo Block Types appear in separate sub-categories necessitating selecting one or the other prior to selecting the actual FX Block itself, as opposed to simply a Mono or Stereo designation parameter of a common Block Type. The current method also requires a bit of backtracking should your needs or choice change. 

There probably needs to be a separation between mono and stereo because the stereo versions use more DSP.  If it was the same block it would reserve the DSP of the stereo version even if we are using it mono.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=8&v=isPRfIMX0g8

I don't have any experience with the Mackie thump 15 but using a FRFR monitor will definitely be good for doing both Electric and bass (and acoustic). Set your output to multi and you can send your output to the board through xlr and your monitor on instrument cable but if you are not running your rig stereo you could make sure your guitar/bass sound is collapsed to mono then send a Xlr to your monitor and the other to the board and they should both get the same sound.

If I remember correctly you can send your aux in and mic input into a path that runs into a digital output (as long as you are not actually using it) so that the sound doesnt go to the board or the monitor but it should still go to the headphones.

This video might be a good reference on how to set some of it up:

I would check the output settings of the FX loops in global settings and see what your pedals respond to better (instrument vs line). As far as signal change order goes this is the way I would set it up (other people might set it up differently)  Guitar input -> FX used before preamp -> Amp model (not preamp model or amp +cab model) -> Stereo FX Loop1 -> Stereo FX loop 2 (unless you are running them through the same FX Loop together) -> Reverb models -> Dual Cab model

Experiment with the impedance settings for the input on helix and see if that helps, you can also experiment with the send and return gain settings on the fx loop.

Could you take a couple pictures of the helix screen showing the effects on and off?