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EooN

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Posts posted by EooN

  1. Before Xmas, my band SOLUM went to a local studio to record our very first single - an instrumental called "A Trip to the Moon". As I've switched to a Helix + SS Poweramp setup for playing live and ditched tube amps not that long ago, I wanted to use HX in the studio as well. When we plugged the unit in, we quickly decided that all guitars will be recorded through my HX and my mate's tube combo will stay in his car's trunk. 

     

    Working with Helix was a breeze. For the rhythm parts (played with a Peavey Wolfgang) I basically used an all-purpose distorted preset based on the Friedman amp paired with an OwnHammer IR (either a greenback 412 or a v30 mesa 212, can't remember) I use to fool around and practice at home. No tweaks or changes other than hi/lo cuts at 13khz/80hz and getting rid of reverbs. 

     

    For the lead/melody parts we used a Gibson LP Studio Premium with an SH4. When it came to choosing the preset, we used another one of my "for at home practice" presets with OH IR, but this time Diezel-based. Hi/lo cuts at 13khz/80hz, reverbs off, and we were good to go!

     

    Give it a listen and let me know if you like the tone we got. I think it's a solid sound, especially considering the fact that we rushed to record all tracks (drums, bass, guitars) in a single day :)
     

     

     

     

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  2. Regarding the impedance - I recently switched from ATH m40x to Beyerdynamic DT770 80ohm. 

    When it comes to volume, the only thing I did is changed my physical volume dial setting from 1/3 to a bit above 1/2. Considering the fact that the presets themselves have a lot of volume available on tap, I'm pretty confident that you can drive 250ohm cans with Helix. As a matter of fact, many people swear by 250ohm DT770s for Helix.

    After reading a few articles I went for the 80ohm version myself and I gotta tell you - they slay the ATHs I used before.

  3. I used ATH M40x since I started playing my Helix a few years back. They were okay, but I kinda grew tired of the sound and I was curious about the Beyerdynamic DT770s. A few weeks back I switched to DT770 80ohm and I couldn't be happier. They sound really detailed and 3-dimensional, the sound has good body and nice bite. Much more natural sound than the M40xs. Also, less tiring due to the overall build of the cans and their wider sound stage. 

     

    Build a preset from scratch using the output device of your choice to get the best results. Don't expect all presets to sound excellent on all kinds of headphones and/or speakers, that's just unrealistic. 

     

    When I switched from the M40s to DTs I noticed that the M40s made me limit the low end in my presets too much and add to much of unnecessary high end. That was because the M40s sounded bloated and I thought I was pumping too much bass, so I cut it, and then added a lot of highs and mids to get the clarity the cans were missing. I'm correcting this in all of my presets using my DT770s now. 

  4. Hey guys!

     

    A few weeks ago I treated myself to a cheapo "5G" wireless from Aliexpress to use at home for practice. Although I was expecting it to suck a big one, it turns out to sound really good, with good range (never had a dropout), dynamic range and playtime on one charge. Heck, I even played an impromptu rehearsal using it and it worked great (drummer auditions in a rented space)!

    Of course, being a digital wireless, it adds a bit of brightness to my sound. 

     

    Any of you have experience with setting up an EQ that would make the tone a bit closer (in brightness) to a cable? Let's say I'd love to end up with something similar to the L6 "Cable Tone" curve. 

     

    I imagine I'd put one of the EQ blocks first in the chain and then what?

     

    All ideas appreciated, I'd be happy to test them and let you know what the results are. Cheers!

  5. But the update process is SO SIMPLE! What's there to simplyfiy/humanify? It's 4 steps basically. 

    1. Create backup.

    2. Download new HX Edit. 

    3. Run Updater to update the firmware. 

    4. Open HX Edit and restore from backup created in step 1. 

     

    What do you people don't understand? I don't think this could be any simpler. There won't be a script that does all of these 4 things for you. 

     

    PS. My 2.81 update just finished and it even seems that my presets are left untouched so no step 4 for me. DUH. 

  6. I might not be a huge wah user but I sure like a good sounding wah action from time to time. I can't really seem to find a good wah sound in the Helix and I'm wondering if you guys have any tips for me. 

    Whenever I step on a wah in a preset I have dialed in to my liking - highgains, crunches, whatever - the sound becomes really lackluster, flat, and two-dimensional. I kinda feel that I'd get a much better result by putting a standalone cheap wah in front of the Helix. But maybe I am missing something? 

     

    Which model should I try? What settings regarding the wah volume (0dB boost or...?), the mix, and the toe/heel freq settings? Gimme your suggestions please. 

     

    BTW, if that changes anything I'm playing through headphones and recording, no sound blaring through PAs or anything. In my gigging rig I'm using a Morley Tremonti, which isn't the most versitile wah but it sure sounds good. 

     

    Thanks!

  7. 10 hours ago, cruisinon2 said:

     

    I can think of only one scenario where an electrical shock and sparks flying about would be "desirable"... and that scenario may or may not involve a last minute reprieve from the governor. ;)

     

    Shocks and sparks are never normal. Ever... lol. I won't pretend to know what the problem is, but strange things are afoot somewhere. There's nothing special about the USB cable that comes with the Helix. It's the same thing as the vast majority USB printer cables. 

     

    I never used the word "desirable" in my original message. I am  s h o c k e d  by your ignorance!

    :D

     

    But seriously, good one jmp22684.

     

     

    The unit functions just as usual, no freezes or other oddities. Maybe it's some sort of a weird wallwart thing that's happening? 

  8. I have my Helix LT connected to a power strip which then runs into a double wall outlet. The power strip has its own on/off switch. 

    When the Helix gets power from the power strip (the unit itself is off) I get electric shock (nothing too crazy) when I touch the USB A end of the cable. I also see "electric sparks" and my HDMI output goes wonky (momentarily) sometimes when I try to connect the cable to my Macbook and I thouch the metal enclosure of the laptop. 

     

    Is this something that the unit does? Could this be caused by the outlets or the power strip? Is this a sign of a faulty LT? 

     

    PS. I am not sure if the cable I'm using is the Line6 one that came in the box. It's black, has that barrel-shaped thing next to the connector on the Helix side. 

  9. The reason why I even asked about this is that I often forget that a parameter I'm editing in a given snapshot is a "global" one. Personally I'd be more comfortable with the reversed setup but it's not a big issue for me, I was just wondering. Thanks for all the answers. 

  10. Thanks! That's exactly what I was asking about, maybe I didn't make it clear :) I realize the DSP limitations play a role here, but aren't we able to get every parameter of every block in a given patch and put it in the "brackets" mode right now? I didn't try to create a patch that puts full load on DSP and do that but my guess is that I wouldn't be stopped. 

     

    Anyway, thanks for answering. Maybe the L6 devs will see this thread and consider implementing such feature in an upcoming FW update. 

  11. Is there a way to change the default behavior of settings in a block when the snapshots are changed? What I'd like to see is the settings to be snapshot-specific without having to indicate that explicitly. As in - all settings are snapshot-specific, except those you mark as the "global" ones. Basically a behavior reverse to the one that is the default. 

    Is there any way to do that? 

  12. Thanks Kilrahi, I'm glad you understand what I mean :) I'll try to make the effect activate by moving the EXP pedal, this sounds like a pretty good solution.

    If anyone else wants to share their way of using the whammy, then please go ahead! 

  13. I wanted to play around with the Whammy effect and I can't seem to set it up to work nicely with my preset. I want to make it go +12 in toe position and stay at 0 in heel position. In the heel position I want to have my signal unaffected by the pitch effect.  

    I place the pedal first in my chain: whammy -> TS808 -> Mesa DR -> 2 IRs on parallel paths -> reverb -> parametric EQ.

     

    I turn Whammy on with a separate footswitch instead of stepping on the toe switch. FX mix is at about 50%.

    When I have the exp pedal at 0% (which = heel position) I still hear that the Whammy is doing something to my guitar sound. It does so even when I turn the effect off. I get "normal" signal only when I remove it from the preset.

    Am I missing something? Maybe that's the "realistic" behavior of the modelled whammy unit? If so, then can I cheat and have my signal unaffected in the heel position? 

     

    PS. I am using Helix LT and the built-in exp. pedal. 

  14. rd2rk Thanks, but I had a lightbulb moment and managed to fixed the damned thing myself :) 

    So what was wrong you may ask? I said "no"  when Repaer and Cubase asked if they could access my microphone when I run them for the very first time. Even though I didn't use a microphone as a sound input, it seems to have blocked all inputs altogether. 

     

    I allowed both Reaper and Cubase to access the mic in the privacy settings et voila!

  15. Hey guys!  

     

    I'm a MacOS user and I've been happily recording and practicing through my Helix using GarageBand. My band is about to record a song and we decided to experiment a bit recording techniques and use my Helix to lay all guitar tracks. To better prepare I wanted to try re-amping. This can't be done in GB as I can't route track output to Helix's USB inputs. 

     

    I installed Reaper to try it. It sees my Helix as an audio device, is set to record it but it doesn't. When I play on an armed track, no signal shows up on the volume meter. 

    Same thing in Cubase 8 LE. 

     

    I can open Repaer and get no recording singal, then Cubase and get nothing. When I open GB everything works as expected. 

     

    Could you help me troubleshoot this thing please? I can provide screenshots of config screens if necessary. I think that the DAWs are pretty much the same interface-wise across OSes ;)

     

    PS. If that's important I'm on a mid-2015 MBP with Mojave 10.14.3.

  16. Hey everyone! 

     

    I just wanted to say thanks to the wonderful people at Line6 who worked on the update :) I am in love with how easy it is to update the unit now!

    The process is dead simple, especially if you had your unit on 2.20 or 2.21. 

    I haven't played any of the new models yet (my LT just finished updating and I'm about to take my guitar out of its case), but I really appreciate the fact that you guys keep adding more stuff to the unit for free

    Also, the new editor looks slick :) Kinda tiny though, I wish you could resize it a bit... but hey - here's something to look for in future updates. 

     

    Love ya, love the product. Cheers!

  17. With the old triple recs you have to fiddle with the FX loop send and return levels on the back of the amp. 

    Read the manual to get a general idea and then tweak with your ears. 

    I'm afraid that you won't be able to use helix's preamps with the triple rec as the amp doesn't really allow to set the loop to be 100% wet (there's always some dry signal coming through). 

     

    I managed to get my triple rec working with TC Flashback and HoF and as of now I'm running them in their normal mode, not killing the dry signal (which is the suggested way to go when you have a parallel loop). 

  18. You can assign the FS using the editor, but it's much more fun to do on the unit ;)

    If you haven't turned off the capacitive footswitches:

     

    1) Select the effect you want to work with - move to the block using the joystick controller.

    2) With your hand, touch the footswitch you want the effect to be assigned to. Touch, don't press! Keep touching for a few seconds. 

    3) When a menu shows, you can have a look at some additional settings that allow you to customize the footswitches. But if you just want to assign the stompbox to a switch, click the rotary knob under the green "OK" square. 

    4) Enjoy!

     

    This procedure is described in the manual and has been covered in multiple Helix video presentations. You can always refer to these sources if you have any doubts. 

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