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Posts posted by VAX700

  1. I run the L & R 1/4" outputs of my XTLive into the L & R 1/4" inputs of a JamMan stereo looper. I plug my phones into the looper's mini headphone jack... and the sound is amazing. It doesn't have to be more complicated than that. You could plug the phones into the XTL's headphone jack, but then you wouldn't hear the looper when you overdub.


    Extra detail: I actually use an Avantree low latency Bluetooth transmitter plugged into the looper's headphone jack, and it's paired with low latency Bluetooth phones (the headphone wire was in the way). Contrary to what some think, you can use BT, but going that route you need a transmitter and phones that use the AptX Low Latency codec. AptX LL has a 40 milli-second lag, which is imperceptible to the ear.

  2. I run my HD500X through a pair of KRK G3 6" and it sounds great. My unbalanced L & R outs go into a JamMan stereo looper, and from there into my KRK 1/4" inputs. (The 500X built in looper is inadequate for most uses. I use the JamMan's 99+ loops to record ideas, not just for playing along with. But I digress...) No matter how you hook it up, running your HD500X into monitors is the best way to go... in my opinion, naturally. You get true stereo sound stage, which means the full effect of ping-pong delays, stereo chorus, etc. It sounds dimensionally richer than running through a guitar amp... speaking of which, the 500X amps are very convincing... Hard to tell from the "real thing". Of course, the Pod offers many parameters to choose from (heads & cabs, speakers, mic type/position, sag, excursion, and so on...) so you can get very close to the original "amp sound" you have in mind.


    I'd get KRK 6's for playing through... they have more low end (frequency response: 38Hz - 35kHz) than the Yamahas or JBL and have a fuller sound. They can produce a good "chunky" growl... no need for a sub-woofer. The Yamahas / JBLs provide a "flatter" more accurate sound, better for mixing, so recordings don't come out too bottom heavy.


    This post on connecting a 500X to KRK Rokits should help get you sorted out:


    You're gonna have fun... just remember to leave your room for some fresh air once in a while.😎

  3. I have three Variaxes and they only get hot when I'm burnin' up the frets. 😎


    Seriously though... What do you mean by "hot"? None of my guitars get hot, even after hours of pIaying. Try cruisinon's experiment: plug in, turn on, and let stand for 30 minutes. It shouldn't feel hot -- not even warm... especially if you're running a VDI cable into a Pod and by-passing the battery.


    Of course, I assume you haven't had this "sweating" problem with other guitars...

  4. Yeah... back in the day when they made flappable trousers and you got sustain by feeding back off your Marshall stack... Plus you needed an amp to ram your guitar through at the end of the show. (I remember actually slitting speakers to get a fuzzy buzz.) Those daze are gone... and if Jimi were still here you can bet he'd be 'fro-deep in the latest mix-tech.


    Why not leave these posts around for your bass player to read.ðŸ˜

  5. No. The HD Pods have newer / more advanced processors that the XT Live, so you can't import XT tones to an HD500X. It's like trying to run Pentium 1 software on a quad core i7 computer. But all is not lost... You need to dissect your XT tones, effect by effect, parameter by parameter, and replicate them on your 500X. It takes a little patience... but it's worth it. In the process, you'll probably also improve your old tones.


    BTW, I still have my XT Live... it's a keeper with a character all its own.


    Glad to help.

  6. I just read all the replies in this thread and have two comments based on my experience.


    Comment 1 refers to the original post from martymetz3... concerning the whammy/wah/volume not staying at 100% in the toe position when you take your foot off the onboard pedal. It's caused by a slight physical bounceback of about 1% due to the toe switch bumper pad. Recalibration of the onboard pedal compensates for this effect. This bounceback can be confirmed by monitoring the onboard pedal volume parameter of the Volume Pedal block: foot on pedal in full toe position, volume = 100%; foot off pedal in full toe position, volume = 99%.j


    Comment 2 concerns the following...


    external expression pedals typically use TRS jack cables (same used for stereo cables) different than those used for guitars, which are simple TS, and would not be detected correctly by the Pedal 2 socket..


    normally as soon as you plug a TRS jack into the Pedal 2 socket, the onboard pedal becomes EXP 1 (red led lit) and the external pedal (if any) becomes EXP 2 (green led)..


    if you disconnect the TRS jack connected to the Pedal 2, the onboard pedal doesn't revert back to EXP 2 (green) automatically..


    if your device doesn't behave like said above here, then probably there is some problem with the Pedal 2 socket..


    it would be interesting to see if an external expression pedal would work as expected as EXP 2


    I use a Line 6 EX-1 expression pedal for volume and it's designed to work perfectly using a 1/4" TS jack (not TRS) plugged into the Pedal2 socket of any L6 Pod, HD500X included. Both red & green exp1 & exp2 light up like they should when plugging in pedal 2, as described in the above quote... and when pedal 2 is unplugged, you need to depress the onboard pedal toe switch to get it to revert to exp2/green only. Note: plugging a 1/4" TS jack alone into the socket has no effect on the exp1/exp2 lights... the other end needs to be plugged into an expression pedal.


    I've never tried other expression pedals, but to be compatible with Line 6 pods they need a passive 10k ohm mono linear taper pot, using a standard 1/4" mono (TS) instrument cable. Here's the L6 faq


    For full functionality, only two other brands that I know fit the bill: Nose ( and Mission EP-1 or EP-1R.

    (Note: I'm in no way connected with any of these companies... or Line 6. I'm just stating the facts.)


    So... to confirm that your Pedal2 socket works properly, you need to try a 10k ohm linear pedal with a TS jack.


    Hope this helps


  7. Your 1/4" phones jack definitely has "something" lodged in it... clearly visible in the photo. Probably the insides of a 3.5mm mini connector.


    In cases like this, ultra-fine tweezers or a paperclip are indicated. It's a delicate operation, so go slow, use caution,.. And be sure to disconnect power before you begin.


    You can expect a complete recovery and regain full use of your Pod.

  8. The question of normalizing volumes between presets comes up often.


    First, go through the loud presets, look at what FX are programmed... and their settings. If you're new to this, it will help you learn what each effect does and how the various parameters affect the overall sound. There's a learning curve, but it's worth it. For example, loud presets will likely have high gain amp models with the drive and volumes turned up, and heavy distortion FX, etc. Softer presets will have "tamer" amps, lower drive settings, and milder FX with parameters turned down.


    Everyone has their own approach to this. Here are some suggestions:


    1. Group loud presets together; that way you'll avoid nerve-jangling surprises.

    2. Do the same for soft presets.

    3. If you find some presets are too loud, adjust amp settings or change amps, modify FX parameters or switch FX, etc.

    4. If you find some presets are too soft, reverse the process used in #3.

    5. Once you've got the presets within a roughly comparable volume range, you can then "fine-adjust" the on-board drive and volume level knobs for each preset and save the settings.

    6. You can also use a second expression pedal dedicated to volume (I use an EX-1) for even more control, and for blasting solos... BUT that requires putting a Volume/Pan link in the effects chain.

    Note: I find the "either/or" scenario of combining volume & wah in one pedal is limiting.


    Finally, you can set up a "gig system" on your board: for example, saving rhythm or ambient tones in A & C with your lead/solo tones in B & D. (That strategy is used in the Firehawk FX.) By switching from A to B you can go from rhythm to solo instantly. Of course, you'll still need the volume pedal to bring things up or down depending on the mix.


    Hope this gives you a few ideas.

  9. I moved onto the Helix. l6 never fixed this and as far as I know is still a bug.

    Thanks for the update. A new Helix... That explains why you forgot about the FHFX. Most understandable. But if you have time I have 3 questions:

    1) Did this problem only occur with your custom AC30 preset - or did it happen with others as well?

    2) Have you tried importing your original AC30 preset and testing it after using the Helix tuner (I'm not sure if importing from FHFX is actually possible), or have you created a similar preset to test on the Helix.

    3) What were the settings of your custom AC30 preset. I'd like to test it myself.


    I own three L6 boards (XTLive, HD500X, FHFX) and am documenting quirks/bugs.

    Thanks... and enjoy your Helix.✔ï¸

  10. To each his own. I like the JTV-59 mags, but I also like the Variax models. The sonic worlds they and my MFX boards provide boost my creativity and inspire me. Sure, sometimes I want to keep things pure and direct; and sometimes I want to explore new horizons. But that's me.


    That being said, new pickup and guitar models would definitely give me more room to explore: Parker, PRS and Music Man, come to mind. But as is, it'll be years before I exhaust all the current possibilities... And if there's a downside, it's that I often spend more time tweaking settings than playing. So many tones, so little time.✔ï¸

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  11. And then there's the 700 acoustic. The models are simply amazing straight outta the box... and into a PA or acoustic amp. Spice things up with a pinch of 'verb or a dash of delay, and I dare say they're even better than the real thing. Add to that the craftsmanship and feel of the instrument... Well, let's just say I'm sad they don't make em anymore, but then they're all the more desirable.ðŸ˜


    Comparing the acoustic models of my JTV-59 to my 700 acoustic, the JTV runs a respectable second. The difference being due to the 700's chambered body, and the fact that it uses acoustic strings. There's just one downside... it doesn't have electric guitar models.

    • Upvote 1
  12. I hear ya. And I've gotten a decent sound on a couple of models.

    BUT.. knowing that I can simply switch to the mag pickups and the guitar will sound 100% better keeps me from ever using the models.

    It's true that all settings being equal, piezos don't deliver the dynamic punch of mags. But then, single coils don't deliver the punch of humbuckers... and active pickups blow humbuckers away. It really comes down to compromise (and I know for some folks that's a dirty word). Of course, my experience is with a JTV-59. I've steered away from slinky strings and use 52/12's because fatter strings = fatter sound. Still, there's no way the piezo models will match the punch of mags straight outta the box. It's all about the presets. I've got my presets tweaked to deliver the punch and growl of mags, so when I switch to mags I need to back off the volume (using an EX-1) about 30%. Realistically, "spank" single coils aren't as beefy as "lester" humbuckers, and IMO, the Variax mags blow them both away (but don't tell that to a Strat or LP owner).

    • Upvote 1
  13. Another idea is to do what some guitarist do on their volume knobs to save accidentally turning it downRubber tap washers that fit or compressed foam cut to shape under the knobs. This way you have to physically move the knob to get change and gone are the slight wipe drastic shifts.(I'm going to do this one)

    There isn't any space for rubber washers or anything else under the HD500X knobs, unless you pull them up 1/8" (imo not a good thing). For now, the only practical solution seems to involve some kind of physical cover...

  14. I use a simple method... effective, and it only takes a minute to make. Cut a piece of black construction cardboard to size and tape it over the knobs with black electrical tape. The cardboard is thick enough to resist most abuse and it prevents cable snags, accidental twists, etc.


    Of course a more elegant solution would have been for Line 6 to make a protective chrome bar like they have for the LCD screen/fx knobs... But too late for that. At this point Smashcraaft's idea is the most plausible for a permanant fix:

    It is a pain in the @ss that L6 do not allow to block these knobs by an option in the system parameters.

    Something called "stage-mode" could easily prevent unwanted changes.

    Hope that helps.


    • Upvote 1
  15. Try to set both inputs to "Variax" on the HD (I don't know if the Helix has the same option?).

    The tone will become filled with warmth, punch and some fingerlicking spicy mustard immediately ;)

    It's been a while since I used my 500X... the Firehawk's been getting all my attention lately. So... I plugged my JTV-59 in the 500 and both inputs were already set to Variax (actually #1 Variax; #2 Same). I A/B'd the other input options (guitar+ aux) and you're right... the Variax inputs are warmer and punchier. I guess that's why I had them already selected. But compared to the Variax Mags input even they pale in comparison. In general, the mag pickups sound much hotter that the piezo models. Some tweaking is required to normalize things, and with so many variables to play with it's no wonder that many people give up. It takes time, patience and a controlled approach... but it's do-able.😎


    Won't work on the Helix.

    I set the input to "Variax" (it also has a multi-input option that includes Variax, but after that sounded thin I went to the Variax only input)...sound is still wimpy.


    It's disheartening to say the least. And could be the reason that Variax guitars have never been the huge sellers that you would think they would be if they truly could do what the advertising campaigns for them say they can.

    I've actually "modelled" my JTV-59 pickup sound using the piezos, Workbench, and multi-FX board settings. Not wimpy at all. But if I switch to mags without backing off the volume, eveything blows through the roof... attenuation is required. I should also say that I run unbalanced LR outputs from my mfx boards (500X, FhFX, XTLive) into a stereo looper and from there LR outputs into matched left & right "clean" amps -- or into powered left & right studio monitors. But that has little or nothing to do with what my Variaxes put out.


    I think Variaxes are capable of delivering the goods, and so do a number of top studio musicians and artists otherwise they wouldn't use them. IMO finding the right sound is a question of time and patience.✔ï¸

    • Upvote 1
  16. I wasn't going to reply to this one (too much time posting/not enough playing). But pushing the 700 or JTV button would have been too easy. And besides, my science-geek, analytical left brain kept whispering "something doesn't add up here." So... here goes.


    1. As everyone knows, you want to compare apples with apples: you can't lump all JTV's together like they're the same. The poll should offer a choice between JTV-59, 69, 89 and V700. Plus it should also offer a "like em equally" option. The way it's currently set up, the results are bound to be skewed in favour of the JTV because when forced to choose, people usually go with "newer is better".


    Therefore, I'm abstaining. Why? For the following:


    2. Asking me to choose between my JTV-59 and V700 is like asking me which of my two kids I love more. Sure, I give my JTV-59 more time and attention because it's "younger", but every time I play with my 700 I realize just how wonderful it is. It's symbiotic: both guitars have unique qualities that influence my playing and creativity. If I was forced to give up either one, my brain would go into a "feedback" loop. 😨


    In fact, that's why I "decided" to keep em both. I agree with arislaf (the original poster) when he says:


    For all of the above, exept the tone (for realism) , the best choice is the old 700...

    The soul is better on 700 too...

    To sum it up (and get back to playing): I know this poll is just for fun, but since I don't have the option to vote my true feelings, I chose to explain em instead. JTV or V700? Hmmm! I choose... Both! 😎

    • Upvote 2
  17. So I have a JTV-69. I was playing and a string broke, but instead of breaking at the peg, it broke at the end of the string. The end of the string is now stuck in the guitar and I have no idea how to get it out. Help would be appreciated.

    Sounds like the string may have snapped at the ball or very close to it. If there isn't enough string to push through as ADBrown suggested, then follow cruisinon2's advice. If for any reason the ball is stuck use small tweezers for the job, and be careful not to touch electrical components. It's obvious but worth saying: make sure your guitar is unplugged, and take the batteries out. Better to be safe than sorry... Only use the chainsaw as a last resort.


    BTW welcome aboard.

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