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Posts posted by HonestOpinion

  1. On 9/21/2022 at 5:53 AM, DunedinDragon said:

    ...  I think everything came together for me much more quickly once I disengaged the Helix volume knob from my XLR output and set my output to Mic signal level.  ...


    This ^^^^^!  Definitely has been my experience as well, 100%. Seems obvious but it would be difficult to overemphasize how helpful this is for live performance. If you are not running your Helix this way for live sound, here are the benefits:

    1. You are running a balanced XLR connection to FOH for better noise rejection over longer runs.  Obvious but worth mentioning.
    2. Mic level output generally provides a much less hot, more manageable signal level to the mixer. This prevents the soundperson from having to set the gain/trim down all the way or add a pad (if the mixer offers one) just to keep you out of the red. It also tends to translate to fewer extreme spikes on your mixer channel.
    3. Disengaging the XLR output from the main volume knob means the XLR output is digitally at "unity" = all the way up. This provides a much more consistent level to the soundman with excellent S/N ratio. Critically, this also allows you to use your main volume knob to tweak the volume of your stage monitor from the Helix to your heart's content without impacting the FOH. Another benefit of feeding this consistent signal at mic level rather than line (certainly if you are connected as most typically are, via a mic preamp input on the mixer) is that the PA tends to be much more forgiving of level differences between presets. Not that you shouldn't level them with each other as best as possible prior to a performance. Mic or line level though, the main point is, although you want your output level healthy, if it is too hot, the differences between levels in presets can get very exaggerated.

    Generally, and unsurprisingly, the more predictable and suitable for mixing I make the signal I am providing to FOH, the better the sound is that the soundperson delivers. I also want to take a moment to recognize the occasions where I have gotten a particularly talented soundperson who seems to be able to take my guitar tone to another level. Those folks are gems to be acknowledged and hired again for future performances.



  2. I would also add to this, keep in mind the fact that the Helix does not like phantom power. No really, don't forget that $hit! Even though I had read about this issue many times on the forum, it still took a gig where my guitar sounded terrible for several songs until I remembered this issue, informed the soundman, and, sure enough, they had phantom on in my guitar channel. Turned it off and immediately the noise and crap sound went away. This can really ruin your performance and cause no small amount of angst for your soundperson (and maybe you too) who is probably tearing their hair out trying to figure out what is wrong.


    Best solution is probably to always use phantom power blocker(s) like the ones recommended by @Musiclaw in the topic below.  You can still run into mixers where they can't run/remove phantom power on a per channel basis. 'Course if you are like me and don't always get the "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" thing right the first or even the second time around... The instant the soundperson informs you that everyone else in the band's rig is working perfectly, and you, oh bringer of curses and vexation, have the only channel(s) that is noisy and terrible, the first thing to get them to check is if phantom is on in your channel(s).  


    Btw, barring all the usual suspects, for example bad cables, connection, or a failing mixer channel; if you are using a monitor on stage via 1/4inch, and that sounds fine, but FOH is crud, suspect phantom power. Also, beware the strawman, remember the phantom, when you hear your soundperson present all manner of well-intentioned but wildly incorrect guesses, e.g. "your output level must be the problem".




    • Like 2
  3. On 9/20/2022 at 8:24 AM, datacommando said:

    I don’t use IEM, never got on with them at all, but I do get the point you make. Although, I wouldn’t expect a gate to help with the sound of a dropped mic, a live cable being jacked in, or feedback (I have read of an instance this accidentally happening in a studio and causing complete mayhem) - surely that sort of sudden signal burst passing the threshold would open a gate allowing the potentially damaging sound through.

    From what I have read about IEM, most receiver packs contain a built-in limiter, but a hard limiter on the mixer should be a big help. Other than that I wonder what sort of protection is available to stop people becoming like Brian Johnson of AC/DC.


    True; the gating will only help with preventing constant low level background noise and such in IEMs, and I did not mention noise in my original post (although it is another issue to control for). I agree; for the stuff that has potential to wreck your hearing, it is hard limiting that can kick in quickly that seems absolutely critical, via the pack, board, or essentially anywhere in the signal chain. As long as it is before ear damaging levels have the opportunity to reach your ears.




    On 9/20/2022 at 12:30 PM, soundog said:

    It's frightening to think that IEMs are meant to protect your ears, yet might run amuck (or be misused) and permanently damage hearing.  +130 dBs mainlined.


    This made me laugh 'cos it is exactly what I was getting at. Every one of those sudden ear puncturing types of events I listed has occurred in the monitors while I have been on stage at one time or another. Scary when it is directly in your ear. Using them for long periods of time at too high a volume during "normal" usage can cause damage as well (like any headphones/earphones). 


    I guess as you summarized so well, although IEMs are often touted as being ear preserving, used incorrectly they also have a serious capacity for ear damage. More tips welcome from those who have the same concern when hooked up directly to the 'Matrix' :-)

    • Upvote 2
  4. In reference to ear preservation, what are the IEM users here doing to prevent potential ear damage from dropped mics, live cables being plugged in or removed, errant dramatic volume increases from the sound engineer or another player, and the like?  Gating/limiting?

    • Like 1
  5. I assign the 'Threshold' parameter to my snapshots. Noisier more overdriven snapshots get a threshold setting that kicks in just early enough to kill most/all of the noise but not so early that it kills my sustain.  Clean snapshots tend to generate little noise and get a threshold setting that either rarely or never kicks in.

    • Like 2
  6. On 8/18/2022 at 10:25 AM, theElevators said:

    I practice at home and at home I have 2 studio monitors plugged into left and right.  Every once in a while I check whether the bug comes back by leaving only left/mono plugged in and rebooting my Helix.  After a few days/weeks the issue resurfaces.  If I do a system restore, it goes away.  The problem is clearly with my Global Settings that I have, and those are pretty standard and nothing out of the ordinary. 



    If this were a hardware problem, then this problem would always be there.  However, the problem only comes back after a week when I recreate my specific Global Settings and simply use my Helix like people normally do.  So let's please stop referring to it as a mechanical problem -- it clearly is not.  Unless well.... a mechanical problem somehow corrupts my Global Settings ...  it still would be a software bug. 


    2 Helixes I own, one was brand-new, Line 6 support recreated it a few years back.  So bug bug bug. 


    I bet you a lot of people have the same exact issue, they just don't know they have it.  Heck, I only realized it 17!! songs into my set that I was only hearing my left side on stage at a gig.  And only because of the prominent ping-pong delay that was simply not there. 


    I can accept that there may be other Helix users out there who may have the same problem and are unaware of it, particularly given how long it can take for the bug to surface. As you indicated, only executing something like the ping-pong test in mono before every use would confirm the absence/presence of the bug for many users who output to summed mono.


    If I were starting from the premise that the problem has absolutely nothing to do with my hardware, as you assert, I think the next thing I would try would be the following two tests.  Targeted towards ensuring it wasn't either a corrupted preset or a preset with just the right combination of variables to cause a bug. My rationale being that since the issue/bug doesn't pop up for days/weeks, perhaps it is an unfortunate intersection of my global settings and one or more of my presets. For someone who is gigging regularly and only had one Helix this might not even be feasible, given how long it takes to produce the bug, but if you still have two devices you could dedicate one to just doing these tests while you use the other one for gigs.


    Btw, these tests are also based on the premise that the bug does not occur for you using the factory default global settings. If it does, you would need to potentially add two more tests to recreate the bug. One using only the default globals and Factory presets. And the other using using the default globals and the combination of presets you use to perform/practice.


    Test 1


    Use the Helix for a few weeks with only Factory presets and your preferred global settings. 

    Does the bug appear?

    If it does, start restoring the factory default globals, one at a time, and retest until hopefully the issue no longer surfaces in an effort to nail down the particular global, or perhaps combination of global settings causing the problem.


    Test 2


    Use the Helix for a few weeks with the combination of presets you use to perform/practice, and your preferred global settings. 

    Does the bug appear?

    If it does, depending on the results from your other tests, you may have to start tracking down the problematic presets. 

    Guess you have already confirmed the bug pops up in this scenario so perhaps you don't have to run Test 2 again.


    Any way you look at it this is definitely a tedious test process with no guarantee of success.


  7. On 6/30/2022 at 8:35 AM, theElevators said:

    It's a software glitch.  Do an experiment with prominent left/right/left/right delay with Left and Right cables plugged in.  Now unplug the right cable, power down the Helix with only Left cable plugged in, power it up -- if you hear only one half of your stuff then you have successfully recreated the bug. 


    The software glitch is that it does not sum the signal to mono initially.  After plugging/unplugging, it does. 


    Are you switching between stereo and mono output setups between gigs? Does this only occur after you change from a stereo to a mono setup? Once you have proper mono behavior working, are you able to recreate this bug when using the Helix solely in mono (only L output plugged into) between restarts? Is it possible that when moving between stereo and mono output setups, that, perhaps dependent on global settings, preset, a firmware issue, or all of the above, that some users may experience a sort of frozen state where the firmware stops properly responding properly to the 'sum to mono' instruction from the hardware, and just stays stuck in stereo? 


    Don't know enough about how summing works on the Helix to have any real insight into the source of your issue. Seems that the method you provided for correcting the issue is a fairly good workaround though for players who switch between stereo and mono setups.  Whether it is from venue to venue, or when they move from the studio to the stage. Good to be aware of this possible glitch.


    I know you have been wrestling with this for quite a while. My first thought when I read the description of the issue was, much as @codamediasuggested, that it was suspiciously similar to the issue I have encountered on some older amps where the loop send/return jacks start to misbehave, probably from corrosion/shorting, and then proceed to partially or completely disrupt the signal flow through the amp. Essentially the amp acts like it thinks the send/return is in use, despite the fact that it isn't. For that particular problem, if cleaning doesn't work, often, plugging in a cable between the send and returns restores proper operation. A somewhat arcane issue the first time I encountered it (my amp periodically cutting out or not making any sound at all), for which I recall being quite happy to stumble across a cheap DIY fix.


    Albeit, although your fix works somewhat differently, your solution of using a "2 1/4" male to 1 1/4" adapter to sum to mono from the Helix is very reminiscent of the blunt force workaround I ended up resorting to. With that in mind you have probably already tried swapping out guitars, cables, and monitoring destinations (amps/FRFR/mixer) to eliminate a short as a possibility. You appear to have tried quite a few approaches to troubleshoot this. As you point out though, it is quite possible this has nothing to do with your hardware. Or maybe it is not solely the hardware causing the issue. Maybe it is something in the interaction between your power, instrument, hardware, cabling, rig, etc. and the Helix's firmware/globals. That could potentially explain why @codamediahas not been able to recreate the problem when restoring your backup.


    And now on to the highly unlikely problem sources. One crazy notion and probably just trying to apply a hammer to a screw. You posted having deoxed the main 1/4 input/output jacks. Grasping at straws here but wondering if you have done the same with the send/return jacks. Doubt they could impact the main outputs (the way it can on an old amp) unless you have a send/return block in the signal chain, but it can't hurt to clean them (properly/safely!) as well. Feel free to disregard this suggestion though. The odds of this being the problem when the issue has occurred for you on two separate devices is astronomically low unless you are in some kind of insanely dusty and wet environment. Another remote possibility I suppose is that there is corruption in your presets and using a certain one(s) triggers this behavior. Seems very unlikely though and probably something you have already considered. Anyway, good luck with this, sorry to see it dragging on. 

  8. On 6/26/2022 at 8:15 AM, silverhead said:

    The Noise Gate affects the signal as it reaches the Noise Gate FX block at its position in the signal chain, regardless of what amp or other FX have produced the signal up to that point in the chain. For instance, if you are using 4CM and place the Noise Gate after the FX Loop then the signal will include the preamp section of the external amp. If you place it before the FX Loop then it will not affect the amp because the signal has not yet reached the amp.


    Conversely, if you place one of the internal HX FX distortion blocks before the Noise Gate block it will be affected by the Noise Gate. If you place the distortion block after the Noise Gate then its signal does not pass through the Noise Gate and hence won’t be affected.


    @SadistikPriest One note to add to @silverhead's comment above is that any block that adds gain or distortion may be sufficient to take what may be a barely noticeable degree of noise, from for example a noisy pickup, and amplify it to the point where it becomes problematic. This means that, although not necessarily intuitive, you can often lower your noise floor to negligible levels by using the Input block's gate immediately after the noise's source (in this example your guitar), rather than running a noise gate after the amp or overdrive block. You have essentially nipped the problem in the bud by sending a cleaner signal down through the entire signal path.


    Btw, different snapshots often require different threshold levels on the gate for optimal sound. I usually assign the 'Threshold' parameter in my noise gate to snapshots such that the gate on a more overdriven sound with an inherently higher noise floor like a distorted lead, will clamp down sooner than a clean snapshot that probably doesn't require much gating, if any. I try to find the threshold level that will clamp the noise without killing my sustain. 

    • Upvote 1
  9. Could the OP assign a footswitch to an FX Loop block and set the HX Effect's footswitch to momentary? Then just put the FreqOut in the loop and leave it on all the time.  It looks like the Freqout's footswitch can be set to latching. Just spitballing as I don't own the HX Effects or the Freqout. 


    Update: The more I think about, the more this doesn't appear like it would work. Don't think this solution would allow proper operation of the Freqout.

  10. On 5/16/2022 at 8:45 AM, MGW-Alberta said:

    I do exactly as Dragon.  I back each preset up manually using the export function in HX-Edit. 


    Btw, you can backup multiple presets at one time into individual files by highlighting them as a group in HX Edit and then hitting the 'Export' link for presets.


    You can also now just run an 'Extract Files From Backup' (under the 'File' heading in HX Edit) and it will automatically extract all your presets into a nice logical file structure. Just create a new backup before you run the extract. Couldn't be easier.

    • Upvote 1
  11. On 5/17/2022 at 7:56 AM, TriviumMarv said:


    So I am using the Dunlop DVP4 Volume X Mini Pedal as an expression pedal with my hx Stomp. Everything works fine an the the sweep is 0-100 from heel to toe, except on Wah-Blocks. Just on these blocks the whole sweep 0-100 happens between the heel and toe position in about 10% of the whole way. So just in the middel of the expression pedal in about 10% of the whole way. On Volume Blocks etc it works just normal: 0 heel position to 100 toe position. Does anyone know what to do to fix this issue with the wah blocks??


    Thank you! :)


    Changing the parameters for the 'Max Value' or even the 'Min Value' on the Wah block under 'Controller Assign' on the device or in HX Edit may get you a sweep you prefer although it does impact the upper/lower end of the range. Try lowering the 'Max Value' first.

  12. On 4/29/2022 at 5:16 AM, pipelineaudio1 said:

    anyone seen this?


    When copying presets, the values of certain parameters are changing on their own and then further breaking previously working snapshots with new values. Video included



    On 4/29/2022 at 9:09 PM, pipelineaudio1 said:

    Again though please, is the one they mean the one where you hold down 9 and 10?


    I would go for the full factory reset (9&10 on the Helix) and then a restore, given the issue you are experiencing.  Make sure you have a backup first. You may even want to consider restoring the backup that was created when you first did the 3.15 firmware update, in the event that any corruption or unwanted changes have occurred in your presets since then.

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1
  13. On 5/3/2022 at 12:16 PM, francoisharre said:

    Thanks for all your advice, I'm going to buy a new TRS cable to be sure and I'll also test the tip/ring settings.
    I may avoid trying with a TS cable, because the amp is not guaranteed anymore.

    Je vais croiser les doigts pour espérer avoir de la chance et que cela fonctionne.

    By the way, what country are you from? I'm from France

    Thanks a lot



    I'm in the US. I understand not wanting to take any risks with an amp no longer under warranty. Too bad because the TS cable might (?) be the solution. Good luck with getting this working!

  14. On 4/29/2022 at 6:02 PM, pipelineaudio1 said:

    Gonna give downgrading to 3.11 a try


    If you haven't already, try the following before reverting back to 3.11. Did you also do a backup before doing the factory reset and then restore the backup afterwards? The backup restore is also part of the firmware upgrade process. Make sure to restart your Helix after the restore and ensure they have completed the rebuild process. 

    • Like 1
  15. On 5/1/2022 at 12:47 PM, francoisharre said:

    thank you for your answer 
    I did use a cable with two rings. I did not try to change the settings of the "Select" parameter ("Tip", "Ring", etc.) in Command Center when you assign "Command'="Ext Amp", I will see this point and try to change parameters.
    The footswitch of the blackstar has a cable with two rings. (see attached pictures)
    When I change the amp channel with the blackstrap pedal, there is no noise.



    Thought I should mention, if you can't get the TRS cable to work, it might also be worth experimenting with a TS cable (single ring jack), even if it is not the same type as the footswitch the amp came with. Oh, and all suggestions should be accompanied with at "at your own risk and hopefully with an amp still under warranty", grin.

    • Upvote 1
  16. On 5/1/2022 at 12:47 PM, francoisharre said:

    thank you for your answer 
    I did use a cable with two rings. I did not try to change the settings of the "Select" parameter ("Tip", "Ring", etc.) in Command Center when you assign "Command'="Ext Amp", I will see this point and try to change parameters.
    The footswitch of the blackstar has a cable with two rings. (see attached pictures)
    When I change the amp channel with the blackstrap pedal, there is no noise.



    Looks like you are using the right cable. Good luck with the tip/ring options. Btw, might not hurt to try the 'Type' settings there with both the latching and the momentary options, just to be thorough.  I remember having a similar noise issue years ago with a Boogie amp when using an old non-Line6 modeler for switching. I eventually gave up and got an RJM switcher and that worked perfectly. More compact and less cabling, hassle, and expense, though, if you can get your amp switching correctly with the HX FX.


    If you have a spare TRS cable, try swapping that out too, in the event that it turns out to be a defective cable.

    • Upvote 1
  17. On 4/25/2022 at 1:22 PM, francoisharre said:

    I have a problem of big noise and breath with my HX effect when I connect it to my BLACKSTAR HT20 amp head to control the channel change.
    I take out the HX effect from the "PEDAL: EXTAMP2" socket with a TS cable (with 2 rings) and I put it into the amp head in the "FOOTSWITCH IN" socket. The change of channel works but as soon as I turn on the amp I have a big background noise and breath.
    Can someone help me?
    thanks in advance
    François (from France)


    Have you tried changing the settings for the 'Select' parameter("Tip", "Ring", etc.) in Command Center when you assign 'Command'="Ext Amp"? Also, a "2 ring" cable is TRS(tip, ring, sleeve) not TS(tip, ring). The TS cables have a single ring. What type of cable does the footswitch that came with the Blackstar use? From what I dug up on Google it looks like it uses a single-ring TS cable. Try the same type of cable that came with your amp's footswitch.


    Also, do you get the noise when switching your amp with the Blackstar included pedal?

    • Upvote 1
  18. On 4/14/2022 at 11:54 PM, dwells192 said:

    I have done everything listed in the previous but still can't get my helix to work with the powercab. The audio works but it won't change speakers, etc. Any ideas?


    Are we talking about the Powercab or Powercab+ here? I assume this is in reference to the PC+, and if so, make sure you are running the 2.00.1 firmware on the PC+ as this was when L6 Link support was added.


    If you have the PC+ the next thing I would check would be my connection between the L6Link output on the Helix and the L6 Link input on the Powercab+. Try a different cable if necessary, a standard XLR cable, rather than an AES/EBU cable, will work in a pinch for a test.


    Assuming from your post you already set  'Powercab Remote' = "Per Preset", and are also saving your PC+ speaker changes between presets on the Helix. Also, although it may not be the issue you are encountering, just a reminder, although the LED ring color around the selector knob on the Powercab+ may change when you dial up a preset from the Helix with a different speaker type, the preset name on the PCPlus display will stay the same. The preset name on the PC+ is essentially just a placeholder when you use the PC+ in tandem with the Helix and the L6 Link connection. All the changes are being directed from within the preset in the Helix. 


    Is the LED ring changing color when you select different PC+ speaker types from the Helix? Can you hear anything change?

    • Upvote 1
  19. On 4/11/2022 at 3:01 PM, kc99x said:

    I would like an option on the amp edit screen to combine or split the cab from the amp. Or if I first copy the preset and switch the amp/cab combo to separate blocks, I would like to "Action, Copy Block" on the original preset. Move to the new preset and have a new "Paste Special" option to copy the settings into the new amp, not the whole block. The DSP usage only comes up because of the multiple step process I now use. Basically, I hate having to write down all the settings to put in the new preset by hand, or remembering 3 or so settings, copy them and repeat until done.

    When downloading other peoples presets, it seems that they combine the amp and cab, and I want to edit it to separate the blocks or vise versa. I assume I'm not alone with this issue, though I maybe the only one annoyed by it.

    I'd be fine if the option were only in hx edit.


    A similar request has been batted around on the forum in the past so you may want to check for it on Ideascale. I can see why you might want this. I think many users start by selecting separate amp & cab/IR blocks from jump, just to avoid this issue and retain flexibility in their preset design. The only good reason to use a combined amp/cab block is if you absolutely require the block that would be used by a separate cab/IR, or perhaps if you need an extra sliver of memory. 


    A combined block may use less DSP than two separate blocks (not sure?). If that is the case, and you were already maxed out on DSP, or if you are already using the max number of blocks in a path, the splitting function you propose would require logic to grey it out.


    One thing you can do if you are stuck with one of these combo amp/cab blocks in a preset, is assign the 'Mic' parameter to snapshots. Changing the mic type results in some fairly dramatic changes in the sound of the cab. For that matter you can assign all of the cab's parameters to snapshots. This at least gains you substantial flexibility in that cab's tone between snapshots.


    Btw, I think a feature that allowed you to combine two separate amp and cab (or even IR) blocks of your own choosing into a single customized amp/cab block to save as a 'Favorite' might be a nifty option. Particularly for HX devices with fewer allowable blocks, such as the HX Stomp. 

    • Upvote 2
  20. On 4/10/2022 at 6:11 PM, ConnerNA said:

    OK, so I have been looking at the Boox line of Android tablets (I use Mobilesheets for music and back tracks and love the idea of Digital Ink displays when playing outside and trying to combat sunlight)....all that said, my understand is these should be work with Helix (ie I should be able to play audio from the android through the Helix floor connected via USB OTG).

    Has anyone done this, just would like real world confirmation not just a bunch of white papers of "it should".


    Have not tried it myself so I can't provide a confirmation of this from personal experience. Don't know if you find a video more convincing than a white paper but here is a video in French and English showing apps that generate beats and songs from an Android tablet. 



  21. On 4/7/2022 at 9:50 AM, cfields69 said:

    Have done all of this but still the same problem!


    This is becoming a nightmare as I can't import my original presets as they crash every time I try! Any other advise?


    I would set up HX Edit on a different computer, at least for long enough to do a restore. Make sure the drivers are up to date on the computer you have been using, particularly the graphics driver.

    • Upvote 1
  22. On 4/6/2022 at 6:54 PM, coachz said:

    Thank you again for the ideas.   

    This is not in my Stomp XL
    Global Settings-> 'MIDI/Tempo' -> 'Duplicate PC Send' 

    I swapped the 20 ft midi cable I was using for loopback for a 1 foot one I soldered up and HX Edit is working now and not crashing.   Must have beens some "time domain reflectometery" going on there.  :-)

    No luck getting the wah to work though.  The Multi Input block gets the focus though when I press switch FS 7.

    I had started the Stomp XL with the loopback already connected.

    With EXP/FS Tip set to FS7 the wah on EXP1 never gets controlled by the volume pedal.

    With the FS 7 held down and EXP/FS Tip set to EXP 1 I can make it jump if I keep FS 7 latched on.  Tip Polarity set to Inverted and Normal just makes EXP1 jump around from 100 down to about 70 or from 0 to about 30.




    Ah, disappointing to hear it is not working, at least on the Stomp. Good move on using a shorter MIDI cable. I use one that is less than a foot long, no problems. Still feel like the solution is in there somewhere for the Stomp with just the right combination of cabling and global and preset configuration. Maybe someone else will solve it or Line6 will offer up a configuration option in a future firmware that makes this straightforward. Good luck and let us know if you get it figured out or come across a better solution.

  23. On 4/6/2022 at 4:27 PM, coachz said:

    Thanks for the preset.  Unfortunately the Stomp XL does'nt want to play nice.   My goal is to have the Exp2 and Exp1 switch for my Dunlop DVP5 when snapshot changed but it seems the stomp doesn't support the CC commands.   So my next goal was to use FS7 to switch but no luck there either.  If I do MIDI LOOPBACK I get flashing of the wah block and it goes offline until I restart HX Edit.  It does not seem possible to do either way (snapshot preferable).   I'm open to any other ideas and thanks in advance.







    Shouldn't be affecting this scenario but if this setting exists on the HX Stomp, set Global Settings-> 'MIDI/Tempo' -> 'Duplicate PC Send' = "OFF". It is on the second page of the MIDI global settings.


    Is it possible you have a bad MIDI cable? The wah block blinking on and off almost seems as if a bypass CC is being sent constantly. Guess it could be something in the tip/ring settings or cabling as well. Does it blink when you don't have the expression pedal plugged in but still have the loopback connected?


    Also, the Tip/Ring settings under Preferences that you describe on the Stomp, don't appear to be available on the Helix.  Is there an "EXP 1" setting available for 'EXP/FS Tip'? If so I might try setting 'EXP/FS Tip' = "EXP 1" instead of "FS7" under Preferences. If that didn't work I would try flipping the EXP 1 & 2 values for the tip and ring settings.


    Btw, to further help avoid funkiness make sure the Stomp XL is off when you connect the loopback cable.

    • Upvote 1
  24. On 4/6/2022 at 11:20 AM, coachz said:

    Here is my setup............
    Dunlop DVP5     with invert switch pressed in expression pedal

    Global Settings > Preferences
        EXP/FS Tip        FS7
        EXP/FS Ring        Exp 2
        Tip Polarity    Normal
        Ring Polarity    Inverted        for DVP5 pedal to control Volume block normally

    Global Settings > Footswitches
        FS7 Function    ToggleExp    ........used for switch on FS 7
        FS8 Function    ToggleExp    ........used for Exp 2 on ring of insert
    Global Settings > EXP Pedals
        EXP 1 Position        Global
        EXP 2 Position        Global
    When FS7 is momentarily closed I see the Stomp XL display "EXP 1 Active" and with each switch it toggles between "EXP 2 Active" and "EXP 1 Active"

    When I connect my midi out to midi in HX Edit goes offline and says "reconnect" at the bottom but won't come back online.   Disconnecting the midi loop fixes that.
    Global Settings > Midi
            Midi Thru            Off
            RxMidi Clock        Off
            Tx Midi Clock        Off
            USB Midi            On
            Midi PC Rx            MIDI+USB
            Midi PC Tx            MIDI+USB
            Snapshot CC Send    ON                (tried both on and off)


             Also,  Snapshot CC Send does not appear to be documented anywhere.
    Attached is my preset I've been testing on.


    Vol Wah swap.hlx 6.17 kB · 0 downloads


    Here is a link for MIDI commands for the Helix. Perhaps there are other more up to date resources available for the Stomp XL.

    The Unofficial Helix MIDI Guide.pdf (


    Globals look right to me although I will have to rely on your settings for the EXP FS/Tip and Ring as I don't have the Stomp to test on. Seems like you got it right if the EXP is flipping from 1 to 2.


    Downloaded your preset and made a few changes. Your MIDI command was being sent via Command Center from an 'Instant' (lighting bolt) command. You also had the CC set to "68". I changed it to "59" per my original "MIDI Loopback tricks.." post, and moved it off the instant command over to FS7 (per your intended setup). I also switched the active states such that hitting the footswitch labeled "Fassel" activates the wah while leaving the volume block active and on its most recent setting. That way the switch indicates visually when the Wah is active.


    Everything is working as advertised on my end although I am using a Helix to test, where EXP 1 & EXP 2 are operating with a built-in expression pedal. No guarantee it will work on the Stomp XL. I have attached the preset. Give it a try. I think you are close to getting this working, but I could be wrong, if this just can't be pulled off with the Stomp or without some arcane wiring for the cable to the EXP input. Good luck!


    Try the attached preset file below:





    Vol Wah swap HO.hlx

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