Nos402

I see a lot of talk about best FRFR solutions for running the helix into, but I'm curious as to what y'all would say if I want ONE solution to run both Helix AND my Nord Stage 3 in for live shows, that could ALSO be used for my bass gigs running through a Zoom modeler. 

I've been using a QSC k10.2 which I have 95% LOVED as it has two inputs with two separate pass-throughs and tons of great useful config presets.

HOWEVER, several times now I've had it cut off with the "Protection Mode 4: possible speaker damage detected" error that apparently is VERY widespread among people using it like I do, and also much to my surprise, at some gigs I need to run it really high to keep up (I don't like those volume levels, but sometimes it's necessary to keep up with some bands).

I really like the "amp" style units like Powercab or the new Fender ToneMaster with easier access to the controls than "monitor" types where everything is on the back and you can't see a clipping light if it's lighting up, however it seems most of the "amp" types aren't designed to handle bass.

Would my best bet be a bass amp or keyboard amp instead? So many ways to go. One friend of mine has been totally happy with his Headrush speaker. I just want a loud, all-in-one FRFR solution for Helix, Keys, and bass! I mean I know it's a lot to ask, but surely it's possible.

Just found this thread as I too am a K10.2 user for Helix, Nord Stage 3, and Bass (either direct or through a modeler). I have had this happen to me on both guitar and keys at gigs, and just figured it was probably somehow user error on my part as discussed here but it's super frustrating to lose all sound on stage (at least it continues through to the house) and then have to power cycle the monitor and go through the test tone. 

I find myself thinking I too should just look for another solution which sucks as I REALLY like the QSC, the ability to plug both my Helix and Nord into separate inputs and send each separately to the house, and the various presets available on the speaker. So much good, but if it's going to cut out on my then it's fairly useless.

This makes me incredibly sad. Since the very first Variax, they have been my #1 guitar and pretty much all I use both live and in the studio. I feared this day might come because not enough people used them. And I've had to replace volume knobs and piezo saddles several times over the years so I know it's just a matter of time before I'll probably be forced to abandon them. This seriously bums me out. The Variax was probably my favorite thing to ever happen in guitar technology and I use the HELL out of them in MANY different bands. Depend and rely on them in fact.

On 6/7/2023 at 10:16 PM, Cgdeg said:

Thanks for the update.  It is out of stock now unfortunately, but hopefully be available again. Did you change it out yourself ? It looks like a connector changes out where it connects to the rest of the circuitry / motherboard.  

I had my tech at Strait Music do it to be safe.

On 6/7/2023 at 8:14 PM, Cgdeg said:

Hello, I own a JTV-69 guitar. I purchased it about 5 or 6 years ago so its likely out of warranty. My volume pot doesn't function anymore, it spins infinitely and the guitar produces no sound.  Is the part available yet ? Where can I take it in Southern California to be repaired ? 

I never found one nor did my authorized service center. I did end up finding the entire UI assembly (Volume, Tone, Model Select, Tuning Select, Pickup selector) and bought that since it was my only option. This is what I got for my JTV-69.

On 4/25/2023 at 4:02 PM, psarkissian said:

For the 89F,

30-51-0689 for Hi-E/Lo-E

30-51-0690 for A/B

30-51-0691 for D/G

 

For all JTV, Shuriken and Standards, 11-00-0010.

 

Ah good. I got the right ones! Thanks!

On 4/24/2023 at 10:49 AM, psarkissian said:

"I didn't see more than one kind so I figured all the piezo saddles were the same!",... not for the 89F.

They are paired off,... Hi-E/Lo-E, A/B, D/G. Have to get the correct ones ad insert in the correct paired order,

or it won't sound right.

 

On fullcompass I only see one JTV piezo part available! I guess we'll see as I ordered 2 and am just waiting to get it back from the shop now!

On 4/22/2023 at 1:16 PM, jambo175 said:

Unfortunately, piezo pickups will eventually fail, not a matter of if, but when.  A piezo pickup works by being ‘deformed’ (alternately squashed and stretched microscopically) by string vibrations passed through the saddle.  Made of ceramic, these vibrations create tiny fractures that over time will diminish the signal they are able to produce.

(great article here if you want to learn more. https://hazeguitars.com/blog/acoustic-power-the-magic-of-piezoelectricity)

 

I have three Variax guitars, the Variax Acoustic, the JTV89-F, and a JTV-59, I love these guitars and have gigged with them for years, but all three have this piezo issue to one degree or another.  Originally I used the workbench software to adjust, but found that tedious.  I now have a Helix floor which makes this issue much more manageable.

 

However, adjustment will only work for so long, eventually they need to be replaced.  The good news is the process is relatively simple with a little patience and time.  I have had to replace two of the piezos on my JTV-89F with very good results.  You can buy the parts here from Full Compass (https://www.fullcompass.com/brand/ln6-line-6/accessories/parts-replacement-service/musical-instrument-parts/guitar-parts/  Pay attention to which string you are replacing as there are three specific part numbers.  On this guitar you remove the whole saddle, the wires feed through the tremolo cavity to a wiring assembly in the main control section, no soldering required.

 

Here is a video I did playing some acoustic patches after replacing two piezos, I think it sounds great.  Although I bought a couple spares for next time...  Good luck!

 

P.S. If an alternative pickup design could be developed, the Variax would truly be the most amazing guitar ever! (just saying) :-)

 

I think yours might be the video I had seen before! I ordered 2 piezo replacements and it's in the shop right now awaiting the procedure. However now I hope I got the right parts! I didn't see more than one kind so I figured all the piezo saddles were the same!

In all the descriptions I read it says this amp had a Bass and a Treble control. Does that mean the "Low Mid" and "High Mid" controls are just extras added after the amp model?

I really miss the very detailed model descriptions Line 6 used to provide about the history and use of the models as well as things like "This amp only had these controls so the rest are just post-amp extras. If you're looking for accuracy leave those on 5 and just adjust the ones that were on the original amp." I loved reading all the descriptions and details!

On 3/16/2023 at 5:02 PM, datacommando said:

Hi,

 

Why should it be baffling?
 

The Channel Volume has no bearing on the tone of the amp model. The Master Volume does change the sound.

 

Here’s another quote from Ben Adrian, when he was asked “Why all those extra knobs?” - Ben’s the guy who creates these amp models:-

“If an amp has a small number of knobs, then we will invent the knobs in a way that makes the most sense to us. First, let me say that the Channel Volume (ChVol) knob is ALWAYS a flat response, post amp model level control. This is like a fader on a console. It's in the amp model, but it's not tied to the tonality of the amp model. It's how I level different presets so that they play well together.“

 

Hope this helps/makes sense.

 

I get that but why the inconsistency? For example as seen in the images, on the Woody Blue it's Ch Vol then Master but on the Agua 51 it's Master then Ch Vol.

On 3/16/2023 at 4:43 PM, datacommando said:

Hi,

 

This is copied from the old Helix Help WordPress site by “JSHIMKOSKI”

 

The Channel Volume as equivalent to a channel strip on a mixing console. It simply turns up or down the overall volume of the amp. It does not effect the tone.

The Master Volume is essentially the master volume on the amp itself and therefore will effect tone by adding or decreasing dirt/grit.

 

Hope this helps/makes sense.

Yeah but what's baffling me is why it's usually Ch Vol > Master but on a few models it's Master > Ch Vol.

On 3/16/2023 at 4:30 PM, Nos402 said:

I've noticed that on all the other amps (I think) that the "Master" parameter comes AFTER the "Ch Vol" parameter but that on the Agua 51 it comes BEFORE the Ch Vol parameter. Is this intentional and has some actual logic or meaning or just a single inconsistency?

EDIT: Nope this doesn't appear to be it as several of the models that DO have a Master Volume on the original amps are still Ch Vol > Master. So I'm not sure why a few of them are Master > Ch Vol.

Just noticed the Del Sol 300 also orders them Master then Ch Vol. Is it maybe that if the Master comes BEFORE Ch Vol then the original amp had a master volume control but if Master come AFTER the Ch Vol then maybe the original did not have a master volume control? I'll have to do some research!

I've noticed that on all the other amps (I think) that the "Master" parameter comes AFTER the "Ch Vol" parameter but that on the Agua 51 it comes BEFORE the Ch Vol parameter. Is this intentional and has some actual logic or meaning or just a single inconsistency?

On 3/4/2023 at 2:55 AM, PierM said:

In an electric guitar, the very first string points of contact are always much more important than body and neck.

 

Nut, bridge saddles and tailpiece (when present) can really make the difference. A bad nut, (either too soft or too hard, or cut too deep ) can really suck away a ton of energy from string vibration, making the tone thin and muffled (I did miracles on few of my guitars just working on that area). Same for bad saddles

 

Also quality of frets is important.

 

This is valid for both mag and piezo.

 

Said that, expecting a chunk neck or a chunk body, improving tone, is a very common mistake but I dont want to put my shoes into the tone wood can of worms...:)

 

Yeah obviously, I was hoping that the new neck would NOT affect the tone! And maybe it's not, I'm just trying to figure out why my two Variaxes sound different and that was the biggest change I've made to my original!

I have one of the original run of JTV-69. Over the years I had the body custom painted. I recently had to replace the entire PCB board/knob assembly to finally fix a volume pot with scratchyness and dead spots.

I also put a really nice $750 custom Warmoth neck on it. Tonight I was comparing to my Variax Limited Amethyst (basically a Variax Standard in a limited color) model and noticed that I thought that my Standard sounded better. Naturally this was disappointing. The new neck on my JTV is much thicker so I was surprised that my JTV sounded a little thinner. Of course it could also be many other things, thus why I'm asking the question. I have 2 piezo saddles on order because the tope two strings (the B string in particular) sound weaker and duller than they should compared to the rest and compared to the mags so that's kind of what I was troubleshooting when I noticed my Standard seemed to sound fuller and better.

Is the neck a likely culprit? It's a big beefy neck with an ebony fretboard and stainless frets and a compound radius, if any of that makes any difference.

Oh yeah I got mine when they first came out so warranty is long gone. And I'm just trying to avoid shipping my guitar and being without it for that long not to mention I don't trust any of the carriers any more! so many horror stories!

I just watched a youtube vid of someone who had a "dull" D and replaced the piezo and it fixed it. I may have to look into it. I hate that I haven't had the best experiences with my "authorized service center" so I don't have a lot of trust that they really know Variaxes well.

In the meantime, I went into workbench and took the lowest 4 strings down by 3bB and that at least seems to have things sounding even for the moment. I just wonder how much that is going to affect my sound related to the Helix presets I have set up, specifically in regards to the amount of gain. Like is that small enough that it won't matter much, or maybe a formerly "crunchy" patch will not have quite as much crunch any more? 

I have some Deoxit already (and alcohol as well) so I'll give it a shot!

Lately I've noticed my top 2 strings (B and high E) seem lower volume than all the rest. I messed with it today in Workbench and I had to take all the other strings down 3dB to make it all sound good again. I've been playing this guitar as my #1 since 2012 and this is definitely a fairly recent development. Any ideas on what it could be or things I can try? 

On 9/29/2022 at 1:57 PM, cruisinon2 said:

Probably not be the answer you're looking for, and obviously it'll cost you a few bucks, but with the world being in the state that it's in, you'd probably have more luck buying a used Variax and cannibalizing it for the volume pot than waiting around for some service center to finally get it back in stock. If it's already been 3 months, I'll bet hard cash that you'll wait another 3, if not longer. It's an ultra-specific part for a very niche product... and a rapidly aging niche product at that...I guarantee the producing/ distributing Variax-specific volume pots is not high on anybody's to-do list.

 

At least then you'd have one working guitar... then if the rest of the planet ever gets it's $h*t together again, you'll eventually get your part, and then you'd have your guitar, and a functioning spare for the next time something craps outs. Just my 2 cents...

This is exactly what I'm worried about and why I'm looking into other options like wiring in a regular pot. I LOVE my JTV-69 but it's already considered an "old" product at this point, and volume pots will always eventually need replacing. It sucks having my main #1 guitar out of commission simply because of a faulty pot that I can't replace and as you mentioned, it's only going to get worse as the years pass being such a specific part. I had actually thought about searching for a used JTV but I just got a Variax Limited Amethyst as my backup (and current since it's the only one working). I've used Varaxes since the very first one and I have no desire to go back to regular guitars. I have a custom finish on my JTV as well as a very expensive custom Warmoth neck, so I'd really like to keep it functioning as opposed to just getting a new one! Guitars aren't disposable!

In short, I agree with your sentiments, and it's a shame that this is such a pain. I love my Variaxes!

On 9/29/2022 at 3:12 PM, psarkissian said:

Hmmm,... they haven't put in an order for a pot or intonation screw.

 

I have open support tickets (no responses yet) for both the pot and the screw.

Firstly, I know the official Line 6 response is "DO NOT MODIFY YOUR INSTRUMENT. WE DO NOT SUPPORT THIS."

But my JTV-69 has been in the shop now for 3 months because they can't find a replacement volume pot (this is an official authorized Line 6 service center). This is my #1 guitar and I'm missing it! This is also the second time I've needed a volume pot replacement. Are there any "unofficial" solutions? I know it's a proprietary "ganged" pot with different tapers for magnetics and modeling, but I need a working guitar. Does anyone know what would happen if someone just soldered in a regular volume pot or something? 

Strangely I noticed today that the dead spots, drop outs and crackles happen only when rolling DOWN in modeling mode and only when rolling UP in magnetics mode. Also, for the sake of this thought experiment, I only use modeling mode. I never use the mags.

I just want my main guitar back in working order!

My JTV-69 has been in the shop for over 2 months awaiting a new volume knob. This is an authorized Line 6 repair shop and I spoke to the tech today who said they have just not been able to find a JTV volume knob replacement anywhere. They thought they had found one but then were sent the wrong knob. This greatly worries me about the future of my guitar as this is the second time I've replaced it and I'm sure won't be the last as volume knobs are probably the most replaced part on an electric guitar.

I am curious what the effects would be if someone just wired up a regular volume pot instead of the much more complicated JTV post on a PCB board.

I just acquired a Variax Limited Amethyst as my new backup Variax (my main is a JTV-69) and I find as with all strat style screw in trem arms that I can't stand how wobbly and loose it is.  I know on Strats they recommend using the little springs that go in the whole, but on this guitar the trem hole goes all the way through so the spring would just fall out I imagine.

I've also read tons of folks using plumber's tape but I tried that and found that as soon as I unscrewed the bar again, it was all gone, and I have to unscrew the bar to put it in my gig bag and really don't want to apply tape every time I play. 

I had heard good things about the Callaham replacement blocks, but of course this one has the little circuit board on thee trem block so that seems out as well.

Any other ideas? I'm at a loss here! Luckily I don't use the trem much, but when I want to, man I HATE those screw in arms.

So I took a chance on a third party Variax battery that was cheaper and also has a slightly higher capacity. I knew it was possibly a gamble, but It SEEMS to work fine. One quirk is that while normally charged batteries get the slow blinking light (like my other original Variax battery), this one gets the fast blinking "faulty battery" light. 

Is it possible that it's just because it's not an official Line 6 battery? I've only used it once so far, but when inserted it shows 4 dots and seems to have a normal duration I think (though I've never tried going more than one gig on a single charge yet).