MGW-Alberta

Why don't you just copy your preset to a new location and then change the parameters needed to suit the different output scenarios? Then you simply rename the preset to identify it as being for the amp .... or for the FRFR .... or whatever. Same snapshots and tones and options but on different physical rigs. I do this all the time but not for output. I do it for input. I have my main presets that I use for almost everything except specialized sounds. Then my main presets are duplicated in another bank only now instead of being tweaked so my humbucker guitars sound good, they're tweaked so my single coil guitars sound good. I switch guitars, do a couple of toe taps and I'm good to go with my familiar presets.

There are lots of players who off-load some of the signal processing to outboard units to free up DSP. I know a guy who has two H9s connected to his Helix Floor, controlled via MIDI. That wouldn't work for you though, as their pitch shifter algos are all monophonic.

Put a POG2 (or similar) in one of your f/x loops. Problem solved.

The treadle works fine. About the only issue I've ever had with it is that it sometimes squeaks; not loud enough that the audience can hear it but loud enough that I found it annoying. I use 3-In-One Silicone Spray lubricant and then adjust the tension to taste because the lube makes it move more freely than I like. It might take 3 or 4 applications of the spray to make the squeaking stop for the long term. The first few sprays on mine only lasted a week or so but eventually it stopped for good. I find the percentage readout to be useful. That's something you might not find on other treadles.

Yah .... strings really need a new operating system. Their code is crap.

^^^ I agree with this statement 100%. Of course it's unreliable. It's not supposed to work all the time. Stop being such a cry-baby. Line-6 doesn't sell products you can depend on. What were you thinking? Nobody does. They're all just toys for your living room. You can't just go around thinking you could perform on stage with them and depend on them for the whole gig. That's not what they're made for. They're just toys for Pete's sake. Gaaaawd.... The nerve of some people.

I have no issues at all with the side to side spacing. It seems just about perfect to me. About the only thing I can think of that could stand some improvement would be if the back row was elevated another 1/4" or so. My makeshift solution is to raise up the back of Helix Floor a little bit to slightly change the angle of the board. I just velcro a 3/4" wide strip of 3/8" thick wood (painted black so it's not obvious) up to the bottom of Helix under the back edge where the jacks are. I also stick on a strip of the furry side of velcro to the wood facing down so it doesn't scratch the flooring. With the 3 strips of velcro added to the 3/8" wood the overall difference is just a hair over 1/2", which translates to almost 1/4" at the switches and seems to do the trick. Even with the strip, Helix still fits in the backpack carry bag.

For right now it seems kind of cost prohibitive as an experiment.

Fast Forward to about 3:58 It looks to me like he uses some kind of external device. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdCxaRCME0o

Try to think of IRs as being kind of like a Kemper profiler. This is in contrast to Helix which is a modeller. With the modeller cabs you have various parameters you can tweak to adjust the sound. With an IR you basically have two controls: volume and blend. You can blend the mix level between dry and IR but if you want a different sound you need a different IR. The Kemper thing isn't a perfect analogy but it should help you wrap your brain around it.

Believe me. I looked. This was the only way.

I built a snake for mine and colour coded the connections to make it fool-proof.

Same thing here. Four years and still learning. It took me a while to figure out how to use IRs too. The manual and pilot guide don't actually show you how to use Helix that I've ever been able to find. They only seem to show you what is available but not how to do it or why you might want to. That's been my experience anyway. For me it's all been trial and error and watching videos, some of which are helpful and some not so much.

It used to happen to me all the time when I was running 2.82. I was never able to figure out how or why it was happening. It still made sound but nothing I touched made any difference. I didn't know if it was a software issue or a hardware issue. Somebody suggested an update to 2.92 would fix it. It didn't but after the update to 2.92 I started paying closer attention and that was when I realized it happened every time I pressed the AMP button to shortcut to the amp block. I started a service ticket and Line-6 was unable to diagnose the problem and said it needed to go to a service depot. It was off warranty so it was going to cost me money and I didn't want to live without it for however many months so I learned to live without pressing the AMP button and used the unit for quite a while with no freezes. After I updated to 3.01 I tested it and the problem had disappeared. I am now running 3.11 and it still functions just as it should. I do not pretend to know the reason why.

Absolutely right. My spidey senses are always on high alert. Even more so whenever I visit a site I've never been to before, whenever I get an unexpected email, unexpected friend request on social media, etc. I don't surf porn. I don't click on things all Willie Nilly like most people do. I will not read past the first page of anything that works like a slideshow where I have to keep clicking (getting redirected) to see the next pane. I look at the sender info first before I read any email. I double check the URL address before inputting info to make sure it's not just a look-alike. I run Safari in privacy mode, which can be painfully inconvenient at times but you get used to it and it helps slow down the accumulation of trackers. I clear my cache frequently. I do full shut downs every day and hard boots. I turn WiFi off when I'm not online. Lots of stuff. I got internet in 1995. 26 years of getting screwed time and again has made me suspicious of everything.

My version of Microsoft Office (I forget the number) had to be uninstalled. It stopped working after updating MacOS. That wasn't the first time I lost the use of a valuable app that I depended on because Apple decided to abandon backwards app compatibility. Then I went to the Microsoft website to (reluctantly) pay for a new version but the only one that will consistently run on my system is a subscription service. I refuse to rent software. I only buy it. Renting software is a scam and I won't do it. There is a stand alone version but after reading about it I learned it only works on the 3 most recent versions of MacOS and every time Apple makes some small "security update", whatever that means because Macs are already secure, it counts as a new version so I would have to buy a new copy of Office over and over again. I said screw you Microsoft and screw you Apple. I learned how to use Pages and I won't be updating MacOS either. There is nothing wrong with my OS and there is nothing wrong with my apps either. Everything works fine .... until I update and then it costs me money and frustration. I will only update if I am absolutely FORCED to. Same goes for my phone. I can't tell you how many apps I lost because of iOS updates. Never again.

I will not enable automatic updating on any device. I suppose it's fine if your equipment is less than six minutes old but if you're like me and you can't afford to buy a new phone or a new computer every 20 seconds the only safe option is to completely disable automatic updating and treat every new update with suspicion and extreme caution. I learned the hard way too many times that updating without seriously investigating first can cost you your way of doing things, thereby costing you time and can also cost you money as well. I only update if I am forced to and there are absolutely no other options.

Some (not all, I think) Fender amps that use the 5AR4 rectifier tube (also known as GZ34) can be re-biased for use with a 5U4, which will stiffen them up a little bit. On my old vintage Vibrolux Reverb the point of the start of breakup changed from 2.5 to 3.5 on the volume which made the amp more useful for my purposes. Possibly all in my head but I always felt the amp was also slightly more articulate and responsive/sensitive with the 5U4 as well. I say I think not all because I don't know if I've ever heard of anyone using a 5U4 in a 5E3. I've never investigated that though.

Yes, the rectifier is one of the variables in the sag equation.

^^^ This. Craig has it correct. I personally don't care for a lot of sag. Some is good but more isn't better. One thing I almost always do with an amp block is to stiffen it up.

I usually set my sag relatively low, maybe about 2 or 2.5 because I'm going into an amp and I don't see the need to do that twice. As for hum and ripple I dial those way down even lower. Like 1 or lower. Bias and biasX I tend to keep in the neighbourhood of 4 to 6, so around middle.

I run my Helix in 4CM as well. I had a .50 Calibre for about 10 years and then moved to a Mark V-35. I was having heat issues with the .50 Calibre so after I had it repaired the second time I sold it and bought the Mark V-35. It has a very quiet built-in cooling fan and does not have the same issues. The .50 Cal was a great sounding amp and a wonderful platform for effects but the design of having the tube sockets mounted directly to the board instead of to the chassis was the reason it heated up and had issues. (4 x EL84 in my case as it was the first generation .50 Calibre. Yours will likely have 2 x 6L6) You may want to consider opening up your amp and examining the board. If you see burns on the board it may be an indication of trouble coming at some point. I use amp models in many of my presets and I also use cab blocks in some of them and IRs in others. Quite often I find them to be shortcuts to the sound I'm after. Some presets just don't work well with cabs or IR blocks but many presets do work well. I suggest you experiment with them.

I've never worked with that block but I suspect that is not possible. I think you can set the block they way you want it and then either turn it on or off with a foot switch in Stomp mode or assign one tuning parameter to it per Snap Shot. Others with experience will probably chime in but I suspect that's how it will work.

The sky is falling.

To the best of my recollection, HX Effects and HX Stomp are very similarly priced so the choice of which one to buy was always yours to make.