oldmanrockband

On 8/12/2022 at 5:06 AM, PierM said:

 

Are you sure you fully pushed the transmitter down to the base? The base does flesh red even when the transmitter isn't fully docked. Happened to me when I first bought my first G10...:P

Thanks, I tried that and didn't work, but I did plug the transmitter into my spider V240, and it kickstarted the led's, so when I put it back into the base, it decided to charge. (at least i think so, charged overnight but it still flashes green slowly) I checked the version numbers base is 1.01, transmitter is 1.05. My old transmitter was upgraded to 1.06, I'll have to compare them to see how they perform.

Just bought a brand new Line6 Relay G10 unit. It's been on charge for 6 hours now. Still flashing red on the base. No lights whatsoever on the transmitter. (Transmitter is marked only as 'G10' no 'T' on it)

The reason I bought this is that my original G10 works flawlessly with my spider V240, but I need to be able to charge the transmitter without taking my amp out of the car all the time. Plus, it would give me a spare transmitter. Having read this thread, this purchase may have been a big mistake!

I'm gigging a lot lately and it's such a pain to haul my Spider V240 combo out of the car just so i can plug in my G10 transitter to charge it. Is ther a stand alone G10 charger available? I do have a spider V 30 for practice, but unfortunately that doesn't support the G10.

Does the Spider V30 lack any functionality when it comes to using the FBV3, or for upgrading to Mk 2?

The reason I ask is that at the bottom of page 3 of the pilots guide there is this statement."* available on all models except the V30" The asterisk refers (I think) to a generic statement at the top of page 3. I'm thinking of picking up a used V30 as a practice amp. I already have an FBV3 and spider V240 upgraded to Mk2.

Is it just me, or does anyone find the mod effects to be very uneven. It's like they are being modulated by waveform that isn't symmetric or sinusoidal.

Ok I figured it out, just select 'no cab' out of the cab models ...I guess!

Title says it all. Still no manual?

Where in 'Spider remote' do I find the 'pitch synth effects that are mentioned under Item 3 in the 'Front Panel Controls' in the Pilots guide?

"– The assignable Smart FX, each with their own associated color: Dynamics (yellow), Distortions (orange), Modulation (blue), Delay (green), and Pitch and Synth (purple).'

Can all amp features be set on spider V 240 mk2 from spider remote, or are some strictly from the amp itself. (I cant figure out how to select classic mode from spider remote.)

1 hour ago, psarkissian said:

"Binding,... that could be, if one side is much higher than the other."

Now that I think about it, it was definitely binding. Referring to my original post, I couldn't remove the bridge after taking off the strings, until I adjusted one of the bridge height adjustment screws. Good to know for others who may have a similar problem!

Problem solved! I reattached the bridge and restrung the guitar. I also set up the action. Originally, I had 314 mm from twelfth fret to the bridge saddle, now it's 312.5 mm. My suspicion is that the bridge was binding on the bridge height adjustment posts on the high 'E' side and wasn't  as close to the neck as it could be. The bridge does bind if the support posts are not equal, as I found out when I tried to remove it. It's still at maximum travel, but within tolerance. Case closed!

1 hour ago, psarkissian said:

Something else in the set-up is going on there, maybe relief. Using 10-46 gauge string sets?

 

Contact Mark Wright about it, he'll know how to deal with it. And he can pick my brain, as we

stay in touch, us being long time mates and all.

 

 

Thanks; I use 9-42's, and  I do know that heavier strings will help somewhat, but that's not a good solution for me  IMHO. I'm not sure who Mark Wright is, but I'd love to pick his brain! This particular Variax is 314 mm from the middle of the  12th fret to the middle of the saddle. (max adjustment, towards the neck) My other Variax intonation is spot on with the 'E' saddle at max adjustment with 312 mm measured the same way.. 

1 hour ago, psarkissian said:

The longer version coarse adjust screws

allow more leeway for adjusting the bridge so that finer adjustments can be made at the piezo level.

 

 

 

No, they don't. They only allow the bridge to be pushed further away from the pickup, which is not helpful in this case.

On 2/5/2021 at 12:15 PM, psarkissian said:

oldmanrockband,...

The solution is the two bridge coarse adjust screws, there is a slightly longer version by 1.5mm of those.

I don't have any myself. Check with Full Compass, Long & McQuade or Yorkville to see if they have any or

can order a pair for you.

 

I thought I replied to this, but I guess it didn't take. Yeah. that would work if my problem was the other way. i.e. If intonation was  sharp at 12th fret and i needed to move the bridge closer to the guitar endpin. I did see another post on this and the longer screws would work in that case. I might bite the bullet and remove the ferrule, plug the hole and relocate the ferrule about 4-5 mm towards the fretboard, but because of the close tolerance between the bridge height adjustment screws and bridge itself, I may have to move both ferrules to avoid binding.

 

 

15 hours ago, line-6-user said:

 

Silly question... Can you try some different strings?  Maybe the ones that you have used could be of a bad batch?  Just a thought.

First thing I tried. I appreciate the suggestion though!

17 hours ago, psarkissian said:

Register your JTV-59 in your Line 6 account, so I can lookup serial number and service information.

Ok thanks, I just did. Btw, I have two. The one in question is W11111097

I bought a JTV59 used about a year ago, beautiful guitar, and I love the tone options available, but it's never played properly in tune. The high E and B are always flat at the 12th fret, and there isn't enough range on the individual saddle adjustments to bring them closer to the neck, which would be required to sharpen them up a bit.

I decided to have a closer look, so I removed the strings, and the two little set screws at the back of the bridge that adjust the bridge position against the bridge height adjustment screws. The set screw for the treble side was backed off pretty much all the way, allowing the bridge to be as close to the neck as possible. Also, I found the bridge really hard to remove unless you alternately adjust the bridge height screws slightly till the bridge stops binding on the screws.

Having removed the bridge (masking tape on the guitar body, and careful not to damage the wires under the bridge for the piezo saddles) , I could see that there is pulley shaped bearing wheel at the top of the bridge height adjustment screw, and this v grooved wheel fits inside the bridge, one at each side. The little set screw at the back of each side of the bridge determines the coarse intonation of the bridge (fine adjustment being done by the individual saddles).

Clearly the bridge height screws have been improperly positioned on this guitar, and the only way i can think of to solve this problem is :

a) relocate the bridge support ferrule(s) slightly which would be a major task, and would leave marks on the guitar.

b) machine down the little pulley at the top of the support pins. I tried this  by putting the support pin in a drill and running it against an abrasive, but it barely made a mark.

Anybody else have this problem, or have any other thoughts?

I want to hook up my XLR outs on my V 240 to a DI on our PA. One output says 'left/mono'.  How is this possible as there is no internal switching done (as in 1/4" ts outputs). Surely I'm only going to get the left channel of my amp and not a true mono signal?

Yeah. I dont know what a sound canvas is, but if it has a volume control on it, you can mix the level with the guitar input, and the overall volume with the master volume

OK that did it! No mention of that in the 'fixes' that this update does. Btw, I couldn't get it to up date with spider remote on any of my tablets, I had to go to my pc and run the updater.

Thanks Nick, I believe I'm on 1.02 on both spider and fbv3. I'll check what the latest is.

Thanks Superspleen!

Hi Philipe, you could feed the mic into the aux input, but you'd need a small mixer to convert the xlr input as well as give it more gain, balance the levels and adjust the eq.

Here's a quote from a guitar magazine interview. Just google the text for the rest of it.

"Do you record guitars direct? 
Yes, without any mic’ing of amps or cabs. I mostly use a Line 6 Pod 2; for some reason, I prefer the sound of the early ones. I also have an old Zoom 2050 rack processor and a Digitech Valve FX rack processor I add to my rig for live performances. I also have a Line 6 Pod HD500 I use in the studio when I need a more-abrasive rock sound. In conjunction with the Pod 2, I’ve also recently been using a Line 6 M5 stompbox modeler that Reeves Gabrels gave me. Some of the filters and sequenced tremolo effects in the M5 are interesting. Reeves and I are recording an album together, too."

Well, we can quibble about the semantics. It was effectively 'bricked' until I found out about holding 'FS1' and 'A' key while plugging USB in. This at least brought it back to life and put some lights on and an 'update required' on the display. This 'trick' was neither in the documentation nor was it offered as a 'try this' by the tech support.

My original problem was that the update wouldn't complete properly on the FBV3 with Windows 7 Professional. It didn't work on two of those systems, but eventually did on a Win 7 Home Premium system, which is consumer version of Win 7. All of this info was clearly  presented to the tech support people.