PierM

On 1/18/2023 at 1:10 PM, markwesse said:

Correct!

I have also mimiced  the effect in mixing before in various ways with a midi gate ie in cubase and its pretty much the same eg tapping in a syncopated beat or using audio amplitude with a threshold.

You can also easily do it in guitar rig with a step sequencer as a modifier and send it to anything eg gate or filter using a square wave output...or footswitch so i was hoping i could do the same in helix :-(

What you did isnt the same as the stutter effect done with switch or a kill switch, because in your case it happens after preamps (so there is impedance load) and just with a signal gate. Pretty much the same as assigning a gain block to a momentary FS, and moving from 0dB to -120dB when pressed. This is just a post preamp digital volume drop. Maybe is good enough for you, so you could experiment with gain blocks, or an A/B split that jumps from A (pass through normal chain) to B (dead end, -120dB).

Still, wont sound like a real Kill Switch. :)

PS: another important factor for the stutter effect, is how fast is a switch...and those tactile switch in the helix are pretty slow (lot of switch bounce between 0 and 1)

Nope. Isn't like a tremolo (that is just a modulation of the signal amplitude). :)

The signal in this case is being sent to ground, so isn't a volume drop that whatever you do, you'd still get a clean signal decay. The only way to get the proper "pop" and vacuum effect is to short the signal, before this is being sent to preamps (typically just between volume pot and output jack). Of course you need a grounded switch, to avoid the buzz.

Same thing when you do the effect with a Les Paul, switching between neck and bridge pup, one set to volume 100 and the other to 0. You are switching from a signal to output to a signal to ground, electrically and instantly.

It's hard to get that effect without going "electrical path", as it happens when signal is being sent to ground (so the signal is being instantly pulled). You usually get this by either pulling a toggle switch (a la Morello), or installing a Kill Switch that does send signal to ground when pressing the button. This should happen before hitting the preamps.

With the helix you can just turn volume/gain signal from 100 to 0, which isn't the same thing, even if done with a footswitch set to momentary 100/0/100.

I don't think it can be emulated properly.

You could try disabling the Helix Audio in the Device Management, under Sound, Video and Game Controllers. This should allow you to use HX Edit, but unloading HX ASIO.

Actually, by reading that guy, doesnt look like this solution is working, I mean, sounds really WIP and experimental (at least...);

Conclusion:
- If wiring directly to a cable: Follow wiring in this thread as it works perfectly bidirectionally.
- If Wiring to work with wireless bluetooth (CME Widi Master or QuiccoSounf mi.1) - Invert the TX+ to Pin 5 and leave TX- disconnected. You will not have MIDI control from the Variax to external equipment though and due to reduced voltage/current, signal appears to be weaker. NOTE: not certain what could be the long term effect for the WIDI Master or Variax. I am jsut willing to take the risk for Wireless controll.


PD. The Sendemodus command F0 00 01 0C 07 00 2A F7 is NOT needed if you just want to one way controll the Variax.
It is requried though if you want to enable the Variax to send OUT MIDI, PC messages and CC (Volume and Tone).
This is true for the Shuriken latest software version (I assume same for the JTV).

What do you mean with "stopped working"? Does it show up but without showing notes, or it just won't load the tuner page at all - when pressing the footswitch? In this case the first possible cause it the tactile switch failing, either because oxidation or end of life.

I couldnt access anymore with my old account via FB app (app is broken), so I had to do a new standard account. Now is working for me too. 

There are like billions of discussions, examples, video tutorials from hundreds of players, line 6 live tuts on youtube and facebook, covering every single Helix/HX aspect.

I mean, billions, literally.

If you are clocking the tempo I'd program a MIDI track with all the PC and CC you need for the song. 

Totally down over here.

Main Ideascale is working, but I cant access the L6 page.

On 1/6/2023 at 5:54 PM, phil_m said:

I mean, there’s no conspiracy or anything… They’re just having trouble making the controller because of parts shortages. It happens. I had a vendor on a project I’m working on recently tell me they couldn’t ship a certain light fixture for 48 weeks.

 

If there is stock in Europe and they’re not allowed to ship it, that would be coming from the higher ups at Yamaha. It’s probably not something Line 6 has any say over.

Could be it's a Yamaha choice, but I wasn't doing any CT here. Not my style..:)

This is from Thomann; 

"With great disappointment we have found that Line6 prevents shipments to the US. Please switch to other brands or choose another country of delivery."

DI USB reamp channels are 5 and 6.

To avoid hearing the dry from HX Stomp, add a volume block and set it to minimum. This way you should only hear the DI passing through the DAW without the dry signal passing through the preset.

If you are getting crackles and pops I dont think its an AV problem, that was more a thing of the past with old gen invasive AVs. Windows defender is fine, just avoid disks scanning while doing music.

Crackles and pops on a windows machine are more because too low audio buffer for the driver/system to handle, hard fault pages and random DPC calls.

Suggest you to read this very solid guide to DAW optimization, especially for realtime VST (it's free); https://www.cantabilesoftware.com/glitchfree/

They are available at Thoman in good stock, but Line 6 expressly forbidden the shipping to US of his products.

This company is acting weird lately, like doing everything they can to be abandoned from customers...

The only thing that matters for me it's how an instrument feels in my own hands. Everything else, really, I couldn't care less.

I do have a big collection of guitars (from very expensive USA CS to cheap MiC), the only thing that I can really say it does differ, even between identical guitars, it's how they feels and react to my fingers. That's some sort of magics that can happen or not, doesn't matter how expensive, what wood or what pickup. My best instruments in terms of feeling, aren't the most expensive. It's a random thing, that I can't control in any way.

Since the electric guitar, like any other instrument, does interact with the player (affecting the quality of the playing), I will keep thinking this is the most important thing when I buy them.

Then, big variable when it's about electric guitars, it's what genre you do play and how you are processing your raw tone.

Tonewood it's just a waste of time. :)

This could help you understanding how it works;

That's why clock and sync pulse exists; you dont just need to send a start command (that can drift depending on latency, buffers, jitter, dpc etc etc), but also how match the tempo of the master clock (through regular pulses timed as fraction of the BPM), and also stop commands.

Even clocked loopers can drift as MIDI clock does suffer from heavy midi traffic, so unless it's just a clock being sent, even a wired clock couldnt be enough to keep things in sync.

Usually you find this feature on high end loopers, but again, isnt a bullet proof system. Helix just doesnt respond to MIDI Sync so you cant do it.

The only looper that I managed to have respecting clock and stay in sync forever without drifting, is the Echoplex Digital Pro Plus....yep, a 30 years old piece of gear.

You need a clock, and Helix looper doesnt respond nor generate any clock or sync pulse.

You are just sending midi commands, which isnt enough to keep things in sync.

You probably had a previous silent loop in memory, so you were overdubbing on a pre-existent closed cycle instead recording a new one.

After lot of tests, my suggestion for M1 users is to NOT install the L6 drivers and just use the native core audio from apple. You still have access to all Helix/HX USB channels, but you can only work at 48Khz. M1 doesnt like high buffer numbers (as those you need to use with L6 drivers), as the system think it's a low demanding task and assign the pipeline to the Efficiency Cores, which are weaker and easier to clip. Yes, with M1 the higher the buffer, the worse. At least until they will give devs the proper access to core priority.

Just as example, using HXStomp as interface on this macbook (M1 pro CPU10/GPU16), I can go with 32samples at 48Khz with 8ms (4+4) roundtrip. That's great for playing AU plugins and softsynths. With L6 drivers you need much higher buffer, which means more latency and more CPU because it runs on E cores...

On the other hand, an old Scarlett 6i6 runs like a rocket on these machines.

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So in the end I have seen that all HX software for mac is running as "intel" process which means Rosetta is mandatory.

As far as I can say, and unless I really missed something obvious, this statement isnt true.

Apple Silicon Support

Helix Native

The Helix Native VST/AU/AAX plug-in now natively supports M1 and newer Apple computers without Rosetta. NOTE: HX Edit software has worked with M1 Macs from day one.

Hi folks,

I was excited to install HX Edit and Native on a brand new MacBook Pro M1 (Monterey), and from what I've read around I was sure they were both running native (Universal), without the Rosetta subsystem for the Intel instructions.

Reality is I'm being asked to install Rosetta as soon as I try to install HX Edit 3.51 or Native 3.51, which I DON'T WANT TO DO as it does bottleneck Ableton Live and everything else running into it.

Am I missing something?

All HX drivers arent compliant with W11 core isolation so the only option you have is to turn memory integrity off.