PierM

Are the stock presets sounding properly? Have you tried modifying one of those preset amp blocks?

If the original presets are working fine, then you are probably doing something wrong indeed. :)

On 8/22/2022 at 10:57 AM, RyanRC said:

 

As in the end, that is all I am saying is the way it should be made.

You seems acting a bit denial now.

We explained to you that EMIs and Ground Loops aren't something you can control and design into a device, especially that small.

EMIs especially, are an ENVIRONMENT factor, that it has variables that aren't depending from the HX Stomp alone, or whatever audio interface or pedal you are using. It's a cross contamination between emitters of electromagnetism in a closed or small environment. Please don't let us going into details about the inductive, radiative, conductive and capacitive coupling loops. It's pointless for you, it's boring and wont solve your issues.

These are things that happens all the time, no matter the brand or the product. Just google randomly "kemper ground loop noise", or "Fractal ground loop noise", or "AxeFX insane noise from PC". You'll find dozens of similar experiences, in any sound/audio compartment.

You still have to find your way. Keep trying, moving your PC in a different location, raising the distance between stomp and PC, changing angles between your guitar and PC, in relation with monitors, or in relationship with the stomp. Try different sockets and guitar cables... Try different shoes. I mean, it's like that man. EMIs are a lollipop to break down. 

I know sounds annoying when other users tell you they don't have anything like you are having, but yeah... you need to deal with it. It just means isn't about HX Stomp, but about the environment and all the electrical elements inside and outside it. That's it. :)

On 8/19/2022 at 12:44 PM, canmetal said:

 

I think for Kill'em All the cabs used Greenbacks 25 as the V30s didn't come out until 86.  I know for Ride they used Creambacks 65.  This is why on the patch with Stock Cabs I used the Greenbacks cab and it does sound OK, need to probably increase the mids, which BTW helped to get me closer on my 2x12.

 

Cheers,

I think you are right about V30. Funny is, that info is coming from a Hetfield interview. Probably a bit of brain fog . :)

ROffset does affect (offset) the amount of dBs needed to attack and release the swell. It helps A LOT to quick shape the swell for different guitars with different output, as well to shape the swell for slow or fast playing.

I'm using it A LOT, and as soon as you know how it works it's very efficient. In this video, apart the first glitches to create the loop, I'm using it almost all the time.

On 8/17/2022 at 10:02 PM, Ludie said:

I bought a spare battery when I got my JTV-59.  The original battery charges fine.  The spare only charges to the point where I get two green lights on the back of the guitar when I install it.  Is it defective, or is there a way to drain it and charge fully?

 

Same happened to me, with my main JTV-59 battery. And this happened since first use, so I guess was an old battery, probably left without juice for years, sitting in its box. I don't think you can do anything to it.

On 8/18/2022 at 3:41 AM, SoCal said:

I am having the same issue.  Only lasts for 30 minutes or so on a full charge.  I updated to the latest firmware.   Same issue.

 

How do I request a replacement unit.  I bought this over a year ago and haven't used it much because of the short playing time on a charge.

Register your G10 then open a Support Ticket https://line6.com/support/tickets/add.html

For Kill'em All James Hetfield used a modded Marshall '59 SLP coupled with a Marshall 1960B 4x12 cab (sporting 4 Celestion Vintage 30).

The only pedal was a first gen Rat, but most of that tone was coming from that cranked Marshal.

As said above, mids were on the high zone. They started scooping mids later, and killing them all (pun intended) in Master of Puppets with the classic Metallica "V shaped" EQ.

There are bugs that can be triggered only if a complex series of conditions are valid and happening at the same time, or in a specific sequence. They can be very tricky to track down (debug) and being able to replicate a bug, doesnt even mean they know the cause. 

It's up to L6, once reproed a bug, to start a branch to investigate, track down, debug, solve, test and release a fix. Problem is, sometimes these bugs are affecting a very small percentage of userbase, so they probably think It is not worth it.

On 8/11/2022 at 11:48 PM, oldmanrockband said:

Just bought a brand new Line6 Relay G10 unit. It's been on charge for 6 hours now. Still flashing red on the base. No lights whatsoever on the transmitter. (Transmitter is marked only as 'G10' no 'T' on it)

The reason I bought this is that my original G10 works flawlessly with my spider V240, but I need to be able to charge the transmitter without taking my amp out of the car all the time. Plus, it would give me a spare transmitter. Having read this thread, this purchase may have been a big mistake!

Are you sure you fully pushed the transmitter down to the base? The base does flesh red even when the transmitter isn't fully docked. Happened to me when I first bought my first G10...:P

On 8/12/2022 at 4:19 AM, z3albw1rr said:

Well that's fair, but consider this: I had an M13 that sounded great. Why shouldn't this "new and improved product" that contains the legacy effects version from the M13 sound just as good?

 

The problem is, all things point to I should be able to get the sounds out of the Helix, but something's going on...

 

But yeah starting to look like I need to sell it and just waste the time going through analog pedals and just doing it old school. I don't have much money, and this was a "once in a decade" purchase (my M13 I bought in 2013) and I don't like messing with selling things at a loss so I'm trying to "make it work" so I didn't lose my butt on this.

 

 

It happens sometimes. For example, I still prefer the fender amp sims I do have in my FH 1500, which is considered "old gen" - and never really digged those in the Helix, at a level that I dropped the amp/cab all together and moved to a Iridium for the amp/cab simulation. Never looked back. Still using the HX for everything else I need and that works for me.

Happens, especially when you are expecting a specific sound that you already know and that's printed in your memory producing a bias (like your old M13 stuff), or in my case when you know the real deal (as I've those fender amps so I know how they should sound), and I can say they aren't just there in the HX but they were in the Firehawk...so yeah, I moved on to find a smaller footprint platform (than the boat anchor FH1500) that worked for me for that specific tone.

On 8/11/2022 at 8:19 PM, pureaddict said:

As I've mentioned, my first post WAS asking too much, I have simplified it, your input would be appreciated :D

 

 

2 delays in parallel, 1 reverb and a cab sim

amp fx loop -> HX input -> delays+reverb -> HX Send -> amp fx return -> amp di -> HX Return -> Cab sim -> HX out -> FOH

That is already covered by the rd2rk post. :)

On 8/11/2022 at 7:33 PM, pureaddict said:

I appreciate your response.

 

As far as I can tell it's 5 blocks including the block for 4cm. 2 delays in parallel, 1 reverb and a cab sim. (6 if parallel needs a block idk, I dont have one)

 

I was thinking I could go amp fx loop -> HX input -> delays -> HX Send -> amp fx return -> amp di -> HX Return -> Cab sim -> HX out -> FOH

 

Is it not possible to flow in and out of the device this way?

 

Thanks, 

Paul

 

 

Isnt about number of blocks, but about how much DSP each effect is eating. :) Freeze/hold (poly sustain), tape delay, digital delay, reverb, cab/IR....that's too much DSP for the stomp.

PS: my comment is referred to your original plan, first post. :)

You are asking to much power (and two FX loops) to the HX Stomp.

For the things you are asking, the full helix should do the job.

You should contact StageCue, They do pedal to rack conversion, and they offer custom services. Spoiler Alert; isnt gonna be cheap...

http://www.stagecue.com/products.html

On 8/10/2022 at 12:28 AM, bshilkitus said:

Can I use the MXR Tap Tempo switch with HX Stomp?  If so, can someone PLEASE tell me how?  

I have spent hours trying to get this to work.

 

Thanks in advance.

Bill

Yes. :)

You can control Tap/Tuner with an external switch, via Global Settings. Depending if is it's a two switch pedal or a single switch, you'll be setting FS4 and/or FS5 as TAP/Tuner and it will work just fine. Holding the switch will kick into Tuner, tapping will set the tempo. If it's a single switch I believe you need to split the HX Stomp Footswitch port with a Y cable (TRS to TS/TS), as this port it's for two exp pedals or two FS.

I do that with a cheap but very solid Ampero Switch, and works flawless. I can't see why you couldn't use that MXR Tap to do the same. As soon as it's a momentary FS, it should work once properly setup in the Globals.

On 8/9/2022 at 12:26 AM, RyanRC said:

Guess would just lastly mention and would use the reference style since it has been used that while sure it might be great for a lot of people if a particular Ferrari came with a running full time wetbar somewhere in the car...that for one I don't think most people are buying it for the wetbar, but then two on top of that if the wetbar is doing something negative to the car that even if it only happens for a select few, that it does suck for those few to come to find out that there's no way to shut the wetbar off to stop it from doing that thing as the only real way to do that is to shut off the car.

It's totally fine to discuss, no worries about that.

Remember any audio interface, as soon as isn't called by a driver, it's just an expensive dead brick...which means is doing nothing as audio interface. ADACs arent being called, ports aren't being called, there is not "wetbar" doing anything, at all. Think of a lamp bulb, and the switch on the wall. You don't want the light, you switch it off. The audio interface driver, is doing that. As soon as it is installed, it will call for the audio interface ONLY when required through its driver; by windows system, by a DAW, by an audio app etc. But if no driver is being called by anything, the audio interface is just virtually off. The USB cable it is NOT an audio cable, it does just send and receive data + V and G. You see, if the driver isn't being called/used, as in your case, no digital audio is being sent or received. What you are asking is already there. Would be a waste of money, and a useless function from a design/engineering POV, adding a onboard function to shut off the HX/Helix audio interface. It's really like adding a switch to a light bulb. :)

Then, if you want to use an hammer, you could disable the HX audio driver in the device manager. No Driver running, No Audio Interface. But sorry, even if you do this, you are not solving the noise issue.

Hope you see the point here. :)

Doesn't matter what ADAC is suffering the interference, doesn't tell anything about the quality of such ADAC or device which is using it.

As I explained above, electromagnetic interferences (and/or ground loop noises) are NOT being carried as an audio signal from PC to HX, not sure why you keep mixing the audio interface thing with the noise aspect. It's like water spilling into a piece of paper, which is not making paper and water the same element.

The carrier is the USB cable as a electric wire (not audio signal), and the fact there is grounding being shared. Again and again, the noise you are hearing IS NOT BEING sent as audio signal.

You can potentially get that same noise in any device being used in that same environment.

You can get terrible ground loops and EMIs even with 40K$ broadcast level audio equipment.

On 8/7/2022 at 6:47 PM, RyanRC said:

But I'm sorry to say this really did not stop the other odd sounds such as even scrolling with my center mouse wheel through this very thread I will get a distinct buzz sound as the page goes up and down.

 

OK, interesting bit of development.

 

I tried plugging the HX into my laptop and with out the charger connected it made zero noise.

 

When I plugged the charger in it made the same noises and in the same way, but much much less.

 

So I guess the issue is in part with my power being supplied, although I really wish there was a way to to not have this unit be a audio interface as I don't need it to be and or at least not all the time and with no way to stop that.

 

Hopefully someone will have some ideas for either issue.

 

Thanks

That noise you hear is not "moving" as an audio signal, from your laptop to the HX Stomp, so the fact you stopped windows from using the HX Stomp as audio interface won't fix the issue. This action will only prevent the HX Stomp to be used as audio interface for Windows system sounds, and default audio speakers.

One of the problems with these devices, is their ADACs are also grounded with USB, and if those converters aren't able to reject the noise (bad isolation by design, crappy cable, ground loops, strong EMIs etc etc), you get that noise generated at ADAC level. Without going too technical, your HX Stomp converters are also grounded with your laptop via USB cable, and ADACs in the HX Stomp are generating the noise. It's not noise generated by the PC, and then sent as audio, trough the USB.

The fact you don't get that noise when not using the charger, is probably because you opened the ground loop. Are your laptop charger and your HX Stomp, sharing the same wall socket? Is your wall socket properly grounded? Is that socket also powering amps, video monitors, and other stuff? You need to investigate all these things and see if you can find a setup which reduce the problem at acceptable levels.

You could also try a cheap USB isolator, that sometimes may even completely solve the problem (sometimes won't)

On 8/6/2022 at 4:35 PM, RyanRC said:

Anyway, as I am at work I can't check this much further, but in now learning it will do this at least natively, are there any settings on the HX Stomp that can make it "not" function as a audio interface if plugged into a PC, or is it just fixed that way?

Just click on the speaker icon, on the bottom/right side of your windows system. There you directly set what audio interface you want to use for windows sounds. For example, if your PC has the typical "Realtek" internal audio, you can set this as default for speakers, and it should stay that way. 

EMI (electromagnetic interference) is pretty common with external audio interfaces, and can be virtually anything.

In my experience, the worst kind of interference comes from video cards and monitors, so if you have a monitor connected via HDMI cable, that's a good candidate for EMI noise through USB audio. You need to investigate and try different things, like plugging HX Stomp and PC in different wall sockets, or turning off possible EMI emitters, like ACs, video monitors, TVs, etc etc... 

As for the amp playing the PC system sounds, that's normal and expected, as the HX Stomp it is indeed an audio interface, so windows will use it. Depending what you want to do with that USB connection (editing presets? DAW? updating? etc..), you could just disable the HX Stomp to be used for the windows sounds. It's all in the manual anyway. :)

On 7/31/2022 at 7:13 AM, adagosto said:

Can someone with experience using the Eventide H9 and Helix describe the quality of the effects options?

 

I have to admit, I'm not enamored with the Helix modulations or delays. They are not bad by any means and totally usable, but is the grass greener on the Eventide side? From what I've gathered from YouTube videos is the H9 is very well regarded and might just be the top tire unit for effects. But, then there's the reality of what you have in front of you is good enough. I do have a Helix (Stomp XL).

 

So, thoughts from experience? Will the H9 inspire me? Does the H9 offer a sound pallet that just bets out the Helix? Maybe I need both?

 

I tend to use a fair bit of modulation (chorus, univibe, trem, phaser, flanger). As for delay, most of what I use is simple delay to fill out the sound.

 

Curious what you have to say.

You can download the H9 VST 30 days trial, and check yourself. It's same algos you find in the pedal so they will sound pretty much the same. 

That guy is mostly a single coil guy, and that's a tone which is not in the character of an SG, even if it has P90... let's not even talk if it has stock 490/498 humbuckers which are muddy and dark by default. Even the wirings are different, so are the available switch positions to mix the pups and shape it through volume/tones pots.

I do have an SG standard, and I do have strats... there is no way I can get a SG tone out of the strats, and viceversa.

Tone core starts with the pickups, especially for that kind of bluesy tone. 

No offence, but this looks like a huge waste of time to me.

If you don't like the sound you can get out of the Helix, just move on, sell it and buy something else as digging at that level is going nowhere in terms of possible solutions.

It's like when you buy a new guitar, and you don't like something in the core of it, like the frets, or the tone, or even the color....and you start swapping parts and wasting days, weeks...and money, trying to change the nature of the beast, until that day you get bored and you flip it. When there is something that bugs you that level it will never go away because of the grown bias affecting everything you'll be doing with it.

100% no offence, just my opinion. :)

Then, if you care of my POV on the specific subject; I never heard something that wrong as you are reporting, really. :)

+1 for the stand. I keep them just a tad under ear level and that's bringing back some brightness, but in general they also like some EQ to de-mud the response.

Also you can try the LOW cut on the back.