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Posts posted by PierM

  1. You forgot the most important of the rules;


    Be sure the fizz isnt caused by a bad mixer, or wrong mixer track setup, or input/output level mismatches.


    In fact, I never had any fizz as soon as Im also doing my own mixer things. :)


    For some reason people tends to forget how important is what's coming after a modeler...

    • Upvote 2
  2. On 6/6/2023 at 2:17 PM, theElevators said:



    Regarding being a heavy stomper, it's a spring mechanism, so it shouldn't matter how hard or light you press the button.




    That is valid for the Kemper, which has a different system, where the FS does hit the base ring before the spring does reach his maximum compression. It's the spring that works as actuator, so it does absorb most of the energy while pressing the tactile. It's still cheap way, but better than helix.


    Helix package is tighter, and uses an hard plastic actuator at the end of the spring. When you hit the footswitch, the actuator press the tactile switch, while the spring is just there to pull that plastic back. So, the harder you hit the metal footswitch, the harder that plastic will hit the tactile switch. Hitting hard the FS, doesn't mean you'll be damaging the tactile switch (I mean, it does probably contribute to its overall lifespan), but for sure it does change the bouncing noise. In fact, I could reproduce the tap/tempo noise glitch only when hitting hard, while glitch was gone if pressing the switch with half the pressure.


    Isn't just about bad or cheap tactile switches. It's mostly a problem of bad design. In my opinion. As for the randomness you mentioned, it's possible that it's different batches, maybe from different suppliers. Helix is almost 10 years is out, so I'm pretty sure today isn't same hardware as 8 or 9 years ago.


    That's why I no longer use those FS on the ground. My Stomp now sits on a pedalboard, and I use an external controller with proper FS for the remoting.

  3. On 6/6/2023 at 12:39 AM, datacommando said:


    @PierM also had a post regarding Rosetta and Helix Native.



    Hope this helps/makes sense.


    I've been told Rosetta with Native is only being used by the Installer, which sounds realistic. HX Edit still looks like an Intel process.


    Said that, none of this does affect the USB com. Helix would be recognized with or without L6 drivers.


    Time to bring that mac to an Apple service point, or give up.

    • Upvote 1
  4. From the sound of it, you dont need any l6 support, but apple assistance.


    Are you using USB A to USB C adapters or A to C cable? Those can be a problem as they have a chip that sometimes is being ignored by the Mac.


    As for the little A to C adapters, for many of those, you need to plug them first to be recognized and activated, then plug the helix usb B to A cable, to such adapter.

  5. On 6/4/2023 at 3:25 AM, Tjevans100 said:

    I have no idea....when I plug in the VDI cable, there will be a red led under the model knob that never stays on, just lights, then immediately goes out.  Same with the 1/4 inch plug, but not as often.


    Give it a read;





  6. On 6/3/2023 at 2:40 PM, Tjevans100 said:

    So, I got my Shuriken yesterday from SW.  It was a demo model, with only minor cosmetic issues disclosed.  Inspection card checked all applicable boxes.  I have a Helix Floor, a Relay, and the Line 6 VDI cable sold on Amazon, for content.


    I plugged the Variax into the Helix while I charged the battery.  I used both the cable that came with it, and the one from Amazon.  nothing happened.  no lights, anywhere, no sound, not recognized by Workbench or Monkey.  I did have the Helix input set to Variax, BTW.  Waited for battery to charge, installed it, plugged in Relay transmitter, nothing.  Plugged in a 1/4 cable, nothing.  I couldn't get this thing to turn on to save my life.  So I contacted my SW rep, and opened a support ticket here at L6.


    I went to bed, woke up, plugged in the VDI cable and it magically fired up, it worked beautifully.  Workbench and Monkey both recognized it.  Played around with it for a bit, unplugged it, put it back on it's stand, started a load of laundry.  Came back, plugged it back in....nothing.  So I began unplugging and plugging repeatedly, which can't be good for the hardware.  About 1 in every 8 attempts, a red light will blink.  and 1 in every 50 or so attempts, the Shuriken will actually turn on.  When it was on, again, I fiddled around for a while. 


    Then I realized I hadn't been able to get it to work with the battery, yet.  So I unplugged the VDI, installed the fully charged battery, and plugged in the Relay....nothing.  Started doing the redundant plug/unplug cycle with the Relay, occasionally getting the red blink, until it finally turned on.

    Every time I plug it in, I do try to push the model knob...I've tried plugging it in while pushing the model knob.  I've tried pushing the shaft without the knob.  I've tried every trick in the book to get this thing to work as intended....but something must be wrong with it.


    False contacts, broken solder joint, short circuit, loose ribbon can be a lot of things that cant be easily diagnosed in a forum. I'd bring it to an authorized l6 service. This will also prevent things getting worse. :)



    Just not sure what's that "red blink"? Blink from what?

  7. On 6/3/2023 at 4:12 PM, silverhead said:

    What exactly is the ‘Relay’ you mention. Have you tried the setup without it? Just the Variax, VDI or battery, and Helix?


    I know you said you did “the redundant plug/unplug cycle with the Relay” but I don’t know what that means.


    Relay is the wireless system from l6.

  8. On 6/2/2023 at 12:18 PM, datacommando said:

    That would be worth checking out, but I created a very simple preset using the same amp/cab block on my Helix. The OP has loaded that and encountered the same problem, which seems to only happen with the open back cab models - the Open Cast and Open Cream. Both of these are new cabs which were added in the v.3.6 firmware.

    Very strange.





    If he's on the right firmware, Im pretty sure it's a corrupted database, so I'd reset the unit again, restore original presets from 3.6, reset globals and rebuild all presets at next boot. At that point Id try to re import that preset. I would also avoid to restore any previous backup for this test.


    Sometimes just the reset isnt enough and you also need to wipe out every single bit from the unit database.

    • Thanks 1
    • Upvote 1
  9. Is that cab working if you build your own presets?


    I assume it is, so instead going crazy trying to debug, why wouldnt you just copy the settings used by Jason for that cab, remove it, add it again from the cab list, and then apply those settings?


    At least this is what I would try in a similar situation.

    • Upvote 1
  10. On 6/1/2023 at 12:56 PM, coachz said:

    Agreed.  I'm using native as my best setup atm.   I wanted to use helix because I assume the front end input is more optimized for guitar than my digimax.  Thanks


    Unfortunately that impedance circuit and the preamp on the Helix/HX does the miracle IME. I can really feel and hear the difference, especially in the dynamics available within the headroom offered by the hardware vs plugin. At input level parity, and same preset, the Helix hardware gives me the extra headroom I need, especially for the cleans that are more nervous with transients. That difference is also changing the way the amp block is reacting to the input driving its "tube" algorithm. Tried lot of audio interfaces, never managed to get the same result as with the Helix hardware. That's my experience with my tones and my guitars. So experience may vary. :) 


    Would be really awesome to see a RME with something similar. :) 

    • Upvote 1
  11. On 6/1/2023 at 12:17 PM, coachz said:

    What is your round trip latency using loopback test?  Since we are recording guitars 10% of our time, leaving the stomp xl on all the time makes less sense than using the existing PreSonus digimax FS interface and rme card.  I understand that others may be fine with this setup but I'm pretty sure my current latency will be lower.


    Helix windows drivers aren't really optimised for live VST/DAW, so the latency can be a problem for some people (like me).


    Since I moved to Mac Im no longer using L6 drivers, and only going with the Apple core audio and get a brilliant 3.6ms of RLT against almost 8ms with windows (and l6 drivers) at sampling/buffer parity. Also no more click and pops due random DPCs. 


    I believe you need to find your priorities and build your own setup based on that. Native is a great solution if you want Helix tones and keep using your preferred audio interface with better drivers for live VST, such those from RME. On the other hand, if for some reason you really can't do without the auto impedance circuit offered by the Helix/HX (which is the core difference with any other standard audio interface out there), and you also need low latency round trip, then I'd consider moving to Mac.


    Also moving to Mac means not worrying much about the never ending OS optimisation for DAW usage that you must do on a PC. On my MacBook pro, I just turn off the WiFi, and it's ready to go. No hassle. 



    • Upvote 2
  12. On 5/30/2023 at 6:29 PM, coachz said:

    That's really a bummer that Windows sucks so bad. After spending thousands on a new 7950X computer an rme audio card and digimax interfaces, going to a Mac is not an option. It's a shame that there's no easy way to reamp it in Windows and have it integrated into recording with other musicians without the terrible latency ASIO requires.  Well thanks for the reply anyways


    Read the silverhead answer. He gave you a solution. ;)





    • Upvote 2
  13. As I explained in other similar threads (unfortunately it's a common issue, especially for gigging musicians or heavy stompers), these units aren't using real footswitches, but actuators that are pushing against little tactile switches. These tactile switches (not only those in the helix) have a very common problem, which is called contact noise, or "switch bouncing". That noise does engage an high frequency series of false contacts while the circuit it's changing its status from open to closed, and viceversa. See the pic;



    As they wear out the problem becomes more and more evident, and the typical symptom is a random double action (contact friction on tap, and contact friction on release). This same problem is also the culprit for the classic tap/tempo glitch with the tempo jumping to maxed randomly. 


    I also believe they didn't changed the switches, but only cleaned out with a deox spray, which can reduce the noise for some time (because does improve the conductivity)...but soon or later it will come back again, as you are experiencing.


    Only way to solve for good is to change the tactile switches, swapping them from the PCB with new ones. I'd avoid using the same part, as they are garbage. There are better tactile switches on the market, but you need a pro to make the job properly. :)


    Then, since these parts aren't really touring grade, try to keep the unit clean as much as you can, avoid dusty places, avoid high humidity and high temps etc etc.. :) 


    PS: there are techniques to debounce the issue via hardware and even via software. I'd love to see L6 doing something about that.

  14. The PC112+ XLR, when used as FRFR (no cab simulation), will send a Direct unprocessed signal straight to FOH. Just be sure to set the correct signal level at the XLR out, Mic or Line, depending what's the mixer FOH is asking. If you are in stereo, with two PC112+ and using a L6 link daisy chain, remember you will still need two XLR cables to FOH, one for each PC (left and right).


    When the PC is being used as cab sim, the XLR Out will send an emulation of that same cab, but with a mic emulation. You can pick the mic model in the Preset setting (IIRC stock is an SM57).

    • Upvote 1
  15. On 5/30/2023 at 3:03 PM, armoredcore80 said:

    The fact is that id like to record my songs playing directly in my pc without mic or amp. But i also want a pedalboard to play in front of my amp in live.

    I'm sorry I wasn't clear. I'm afraid that if I use the stomp in my combo with effects alone (not using amp simulations) the sound will change dramatically... which it doesn't with hx effects. when i used the hd 500 pod, even if i didn't activate the amp simulations, the sound of my amp was different from when i played directly in the combo without going through the pedalboard. To evaluate this thing of sound I am referring to the sound of the guitar with no effect going into the amp.
    sorry for my poor command of the english language.
    thanks for all the replies.


    I honestly cant speak for the HD500, but I can assure you the Stomp wont do anything terrible to your signal. Doesnt do anything terrible to my real amps either. There'll be an ADA conversion, as happens with the HX FX. It will be fine. :)


    Just be sure to properly set the Stomp output to inst level if you'll be using it in front of the amp. (Global Settings)

    • Upvote 1
  16. The main difference between HX FX and Stomp is that Stomp has an auto impedance circuit at the input as any other HX/Helix modeler of the family. You can turn it off and set your wanted impedance to be loaded. Imho shouldn't be any different than HX FX as soon as you don't do modeling within the Stomp.


    Also depends how you use it, and how you route the signal to the Stomp. (front of amp? 4CM? FX loop? etc etc).


    No idea what you meant with "like the pod hd 500 I had some years ago" tho. :)

    • Upvote 2
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