PierM

Well, on paper every send/return are extra D/A/D conversion, so Im not surprised if that is affecting the tone, other than adding more noise to the noise floor.... and yes - it does.

I do certainly get a better tone out of my Iridium when used alone, than when I put it inside an Helix path, using an FX loop. Im pretty sure it's mostly about that extra AD/DA cycle, which cant be totally seamless. Not a deal breaker for sure, totally usable in the mix, but difference it's there.

1 hour ago, roundeight said:

I did as you told me and it works! I am understanding that it is not enough to put the looper at the end of the Rig but the Rig must be exactly the same type. If preset N ° 1 has a linear Rig and preset N ° 2 has a Rig going to the line below (path 2a) the looper will not be maintained even if it is placed just before the output.

That's because MUST be on the same DSP (aka same path).

If you have preset A with looper on path 1 (DSP1), and preset B with looper on path 2 (DSP 2), it wont work...and, I'd say, for obvious reasons. :)

Just try this;

Start from a blank preset, and place a looper block at the end of the path, before the output.

Save the preset as it is, just with a looper block.

Now save again, in the next preset position, so that you have two identical presets, one after the other.

Go back to first one and record something on the looper. Play the loop. Switch to next preset while looper is playing. You will get the looper recording on the second preset as well. Go back and forth, the recording will stay there.

25 minutes ago, roundeight said:

I have tried all the ways but if I switch from one preset on which I have recorded a loop to another, even if I have inserted the looper in the same block, the moment in which the passage occurs, the loop stops playing. To have a looper that "overrides" the presets while remaining in operation, it should be placed on a possible global post location, as happens for example in the Rig 5 software.

@malhavok is right. If you place the looper exactly on the same place in the two presets (like at the very end of the path, before the output block), the recording does spillover when you roll between them.

Just tried and it works.

Nope, you cant (yet). That's from latest firmware;

IMPORTANT! Unfortunately, Looper recording or playback will not currently spill over from one preset to another.

EDIT: That's wrong, you can. :)

13 hours ago, samtowns said:

YESSSSSS!!! This drives me absolutely nuts! There are many times I’m just wanting to quickly sweep through the levels of gain or EQ as I would on a normal pedal - but I have to turn the knobs over and over again to get them all the way through – would love to have them operate more like a “real world” knob! Hopeful that Line 6 sees this and can fix in a future firmware update... 

Yes, that's a pain in the arse.

Takes literally a minute to raise some params to max... ridicolous.

58 minutes ago, talonmm said:

Under new equipment, did you forget the HX-Stomp?  Also no mention of the output meters and improved tuning screen.

 

Also, it's incredible how many effects Line 6 added!

 

The new amps and effects sounds amazing.  It's like getting so much new hardware each update.

 

Great Job!

OP is from 2018. Today that list would be way longer. :)

11 hours ago, zgm676 said:

I just bought another one since they're so cheap.

160€ for a thing that last 2.5hours per charge, I wouldnt really call it cheap. 

That firmware, that was cheap indeed. :)

13 hours ago, spikey said:

If you are going to spend the $$$ get the rack AND the controller. This way you arn't stepping all over the expensive part.... ; )

This!

19 hours ago, tlathbury said:

I've tried this switching between patches with spillover turned on and would view it is a mild improvement at best.  There still is a definite hiccup between volume matched presets....sort of like a very brief volume drop.

 

Am I missing something ?

 

Maybe there's a demo of this available so I can see/hear what to expect ?

Check if you dont have some impedance jump between the two presets. This is from the official notes from L6;

"...note that there may be a slight hiccup when switching between two presets with different impedance values for the Guitar Input."

This would require some layering, like the plus pedal does. Would be great, but does require a different algo for the layering, and more params to control them. You should drop the idea in ideascale.

1 hour ago, LongDuckDong said:

I researched the Helix.  My favorite amp is the Mesa Boogie, Dual Rectifier, which the Spider Jam, has.  

 

I asked if the Helix brought more to the table than the Spider Jam. 

 

Unfortunately, the respondents couldn't answer a simple question, without getting pissy, snarky, or defensive.

You should buy a Mesa Boogie, Dual Rectifier.

You should update to Helix only if you need a joystick.

I did some comparison between variax detuning/uptuning (not Alt tuning, for the above reasons), and the Helix Poly does seem performing better for uptuning (better tone and attack), whereas Variax (JTV59) sounds to me more convincing when downtuning, even if does warble a bit more for lower drops. Acoustic sim on the JTV is still superior than using the Acoustic sim in the latest firmware imho, but I've seen some youtube using that new block in conjuction with acoustic IRs, and it was sounding just amazing. Still the Variax seems the right choice if you dont want to deal to much with presets and stuff.

I dont think Variax is now redundant, at all. Helix can't perform string recognition as the Variax, so I doubt it will ever be a complete alternative.

40 minutes ago, CraigGT said:

 

People say the joystick issue is a soldering problem but it's not, it's caused by the multi axis movement taking it's toll on the wires.

Well, I sent my floor in Germany (two times) for the joystick issue, and in the service description was described as a soldering issue. The pot base is soldered on the PCB.

1 hour ago, KozMcCharlie said:

..-but this is just not a job for anyone but a true pro.

Wondering who's/what is doing these soldering at the factory lol. Never seen so many soldering issues as with Line6. 

Agree with Zolko.

I do have an El Capistan (just a brilliant pedal) and 2 old Oberheim EDPs, because I do really love tape degradation, or digital delay cycle downsampling. Never been a fan of L6 delays/reverb for that reason, they are studio quality, but too cold and sterile for my taste (I said taste, not saying they are bad).

Dont know if does already exist in ideascale, but I really wish they make the rotary pots more dynamic. I mean, it does takes from 40 seconds to an entire MINUTE, spinning that rotary, to assign the max values to some block params (like for example the new poly sustain, or longest delay times). They could just use an EXPonential function that does auto engage if you dont stop spinning the value within X seconds.

EDIT; would be also great to have a 100% Wet option on the Poly Sustain block, to play soft in/out drone pads, like I can do with my Gamechanger Plus Pedal.

Anyway, isnt just the PodGo. Even if I connect my Helix Rack (without using amp sim), in front of my Fender Deluxe, it does suck a lot of the original tone and dynamics (other than adding a crazy hiss noise). 

On the other hand, if I plug my normal pedalboard, with strymon stuff and other pedals, it's all good and flawless.

I think there is something on these devices, that these Fender amps are not liking that much....

18 minutes ago, ruperthawkes said:

So it's on when pressed down and off when not?  As opposed to a toggle? 

Works as a toggle, just without the annoying click/clack of a standard footswitch... :)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7gz6swwl1xj28h0/Video 09-12-20%2C 13 40 39.mov?dl=0

I use a Yamaha FC5 straight into the Toe Switch (I dont use a wah so that's a free jack for me). I love the soft clickless feeling, and works fine. It's perfect for stuff like the new Poly Sustain.

I had this few weeks ago, with 2.9x. I fixed resetting Globals.

I had/have no idea when and how this started, but at some point I had the left Returns, way louder than right Returns, at impedance parity. Anyway, resetting Globals restored everything to normal.

If you are expecting Helix+FRFR to sound like your Fender amp in your room, sorry, it wont happen in any configuration. What you'll be getting is a tone coming from a mic'ed amp, processed and diffused through FRFR speakers. It wont emulate the amp in the room.

So first thing to understand is what kind of tone you are chasing, in the context of your precise expectations. :)

13 minutes ago, moonshine2015 said:

All this no sense answers for everyone ain’t sinking, I’m simply hoping with a new model let’s say 2020 may have improved jut slightly and possibly hopefully these silly little issues like the manual joystick controlled could have been simple rectified slightly different due to issues like had with my NEW B stock ( lasted 3 hours) now it’s sent back for aNEW model.

im only hoping these was an updated version , hence my serial number and date of manufacture to hopefully fix these flukes that happem

been with Line 6 longer than anyone possibly who is doing all the ranting and making me sound pathetic, but it’s basically himself that’s needing questioning , simply by his manner to the public in the way he DE Means folks as tho he is some kinda off sherif or maybe he thinks he owns line 6...as that’s they he is coming across.

PS I just loved the Helix Rack and yea, here’s hoping it arrives soon, I’ll possibly purchase the floor controller and a variax soon...

PPS I hope commando boy doesn’t keep answering my very tuned questions , he actually doesn’t understand ....maybe the penny will from now that I’ve found some head space to finish what I’ve been trying to say...

There is NOTHING to rectify or improve in that field. IT IS NOT the joystick that fail. IS A COLD/BAD SOLDERING that breaks, because of joint fatigue that happens when you use the "joystick". That may happen in 2015 or in 2030, unless they do change the front panel design. Would I have preferred the typical four directional buttons instead that joypad? Yes I would have (I do hate that wonky joystick, 2015 or 2020), but it is what it is, and there is nothing you can do, or say, or believe, that it will affect the reality. Hence the looping overthinking.

When you send these units for repair, THEY DO NOT replace the joystick (unless you were using an hammer); they do just re-solder the wires with the potentiometer pins over there;

1 hour ago, moonshine2015 said:

So called Moderator? You could have fooled me.lol

u guys just don’t get it...

Even the seller doesnt have such information (year of assembly), nor the local distributor. You are indeed overthinking stuff you can't control in any way. There is still the chance you get a rack assembled in 2015, today in 2020, especially if you are in Europe like me, where the distribution has a bit of bottleneck with stocks.

IIRC, you are waiting for a brand new unit; just sit, smile, and wait for it. Im sure you'll get plenty of fun as soon as it arrives. Just let it go. :)