Posts posted by PierM
It's not really about like or not. It's just about being more or less "reliable" in various conditions, which for my personal experience, it is not (yet).
As we believe you guys being totally happy with it, you should accept and believe other users who are not getting your same experience.
You may not like my Peterson (whatever this means), but it does never skip a beat and I could not care less to endorse one or the other product. :)
I know there's some debate about it, but I think you're much better off tuning to the initial attack of a string rather than the decay. Actually, when I think of trying to tune to the decay, it seems like it would be very difficult. I mean, with some instruments like mandolins or nylon string guitars there is virtually no sustain anyway. Perhaps this is why some people find the tuner frustrating. I try to hit the strings hard when tuning and in quick succession. If I get a couple of the initial hits to light up both greens for a few hits, I consider that in tune. A string will naturally fall off a few cents while it rings out anyway. But if you figure, most of what you're hearing with guitar, especially when playing chords, is the initial attack of the strings.
The other thing I would say that has helped me with nearly ever tuner I've ever used is that I hardly ever tune a string from sharp to in pitch. Even if a string reads sharp at first, I will usually tune it flats and then go back up to pitch. It just always seems to be more stable that way.
I've a stroboplus which is for me my benchmark, so I did check various ways to tune with the Helix and tuning on the attack gave me the worst result. This is what usually happen with a Tele that I have, which has a crazy glassy peak and quick decay, so I'm forced to tune that way (multiple pick, tuning on the attack as the tracking drops pretty quickly). Well if I check this guitar with the stroboblus just after Helix (which I do have in a send from the Helix) it's never in tune, just a mix of sharp and flat. That same guitar does tune perfectly through the Stroboplus. At the opposite, when I tune on a different guitar (which has a crazy sustain and does ring forever), I just pick and wait the tracking to stabilize (while tuning the string) and that works much better for me, and it's usually confirmed on the stroboplus. I'm not talking about 10 seconds here, just 1 or 2 seconds after picking. I'm not really a shredder and I think I do have a pretty gentle picking and also does happen I tune on the fly with no pick at all.
Also, with the stroboplus I always tune on the decay, as wouldn't work very fine on the attack. I know the theory about the attack is where you perceive most of the pitch but for some reason this is not being confirmed by the tools I tried. I don't think there is a correct way to tune. I think it's always a matter of finding the best set between player style, tuner and guitar/pickup.
I do have a good pack of guitars, and the Helix does not really work the same with all of them, at all, while the peterson does look like it doesn't really care of the guitar. It just tune whatever thing you put in. Of course I'm not expecting the Helix to be like a Peterson, so I'm ok with that, since I didn't buy the Helix to tune my guitars. Said that I'm sure it can be improved. :)
I found that my Helix does not like guitars with a quick decay, because it seems a bit slow on tracking. I've no issues with guitars with plenty of sustain, where I can pick and let the tuner tracking the note, while tuning, but it's working twitchy with guitars with low output and quick decay, where I need to pick multiple times (which is not good as every pick has its own overtones and variables). The best way I've found (for me) to tune with Helix is to NOT pick multiple times, just once, and tuning while decaying.
So yeah, I've no issues with some guitars, but can be twitchy and jumpy with others.
There are possible issues with soldering quality and stability on the back panels. The joystick/rotary it's one of the weak spots. Also the screen, on the floorboard, is easy to be kicked as there are not protections to prevent that.
Since day one I've been complaining on that and in my humble opinion the unit it's more studio oriented than tour grade.
I'm quite stressed when I'm playing live with this thing, since my style needs needs some realtime editing and tweaking straight on the board, and a failure could be pretty much pathetic to manage.
I've sent the unit back for a repair on the joystick, which stopped working because of a soldering issue, now it's back with another issue where I need to push like crazy to make it click on the right selection.
The convenience of using the headphone out from an ipod, Android Smartphone or Tablet, CD player, or similar, to quickly patch to the Helix for practicing with pre-recorded tracks or YouTube vids, is what makes the 1/8" Stereo to Dual Mono 1/4" Left and Right TS cable so useful with Helix. Just put a Stereo FX Return Block in Helix's signal path and you're good to go! A Gain Block makes it easy to adjust the incoming volume level if you do not choose to do so in the FX Return Block Level parameter.
You can do the same, in a better way, using the USB. I do that all the time with my iPhone and iPad.
What's the deal with the missing Aux? Just use a USB compliance device, works great, it's fully digital, you've total control on it and no extra noise in the channel.
It's 2017, let's use proper technology. :)
I guess with "monitoring inputs" he meant how to monitor levels, not how to link his helix to monitors.
If so, you can just connect your Helix USB to a compliance device running a monitoring software. I'm using an iPad with a pro app and it works great.
Bit machine and Helix delay times are starting together, but after few minutes they are totally off, because Helix is accumulating that extra bit/bits on its own. Would be probably helpful to have an option to fine tuning the sync offset.
^I can confirm this above ^
Linked a RC300 to Helix, and mastering that one with the RC300 clock. The Helix it's always a bit quicker.
Do whatever thing works better for you.
When it comes to "hybrids" as you are doing, it will never be the same as before, without the digital part in the middle. If you are aiming to got back that "clarity" it's not going to happen because of that big black thing in the middle and could be basically the same even with a single extra circuit between your guitar and your old amps. The only thing you could do is to create your analog pedalboard, with true bypass pedals, and forget about digital. To me looks like you are sort of fighting with ghosts but soon or later you have to decide which is the compromise working better for you.
Thanks for the input. Nice stuff.
I'm programming one of my old FCB1010 with UNO Chip, to work as bass pedal, and seems working great. It's lot of fun! :)
I do the number thing, too. The weird thing I've found with Windows 10 and the Helix app is that the order the IRs are loaded back onto the Helix depends on where my cursor is when I grab the file to drag them over. As long as I have the cursor on the first file, it will load them back in the proper order. Otherwise, it will make the file I have my cursor on the first one, go through the rest in order and loop around. Very odd.
Yes. The mouse drag has to target the first in the list, as well to target the first position in the Helix iR bank, and there it will start the "drop". Always been like that and I think it's intentional.
I just put a number in front of each IR name, same number as the position in the Helix IR bank. This way I can just sort by name/number, drag and drop in position.
Wish they'd give us an update to match the New Helix Update from today!! A firmware update that does a WDW setting for the FH 1500 with the Monitor ins would be great. Issues resolved with the phasing etc. resolved would be amazing!!!
A W/D/W does require 3 paths, so it's impossible to make it working with a L/R Stereo pair.
All I'd need is a better DSP crossover programming, to better assign frequencies to the different speakers when using the Monitor IN, and some fix for the digital hiss. But imho the size ratio between the center speakers and the two coaxial it's too big, so it's really hard to balance the output without overflooding the stereo drivers, or without compressing the entire scheme, as it is now. I stopped my wishful thinking on that product, honestly. It's bad engineered, as stereo monitor.
Rule number one! Never do an update the day it comes out! Wait for feedback here to see how it goes and to see what kind of problems it may cause. Let others be the leaders - be a fast follower.
How can people leave a feedback if had to wait for people to leave a feedback, before update?
Wow that is cool... B)
I've two FCB1010 parked in my old crap warehouse....one of them has the UNO chip, which has (if I remember correctly) the option to make pedals acting momentary... Would be great if I could manage to make one of those a, sort of, bass pedal... :ph34r:
That's good stuff to experiment with, next weekend!
My Volume knob is maxed out since day 1 lol. I could even glue it....so for me really a non issue. I prefer to control volumes post-Helix, or per Amp block, to reduce any unwanted extra noise coming from bottom floor signals.
I'm fine with that but still; I've stuff in the Helix that I don't know how to use properly (the synths), and judging by what I see over here, I'm not alone.
Also, should not be mandatory for a musician to come over here and spend hours of his time to search for information. That's why someone invented the operational manuals.
No, there is not.
I do also think would be the time for a manual update, considered the huge amount of changes.
Same boat as you with OSC stuff. Would really like to see some proper advice about that stuff which I never used before. I hate to feel a noob!! :lol: :lol:
Hard to tell from the picture, as this is just the output section.
BTW, I just uploaded the preset I'm using, to make the FH1500 a FRFR monitor with the minimum amount of extra noise coming from the built-in processor.
You can go to Tone Cloud, using your app, and search for "Blank FRFR". You'll find my preset. Just save it either on your local tones or in your FH1500, better if in a empty preset. With this one you'll be setting your amp as it should to be used just as Monitor. Just be sure to load this every time you turn on the amp and want to use it as FRFR.
As for the levels you are using, unless you don't need to mix different sources, you could keep your guitar input at 70/100% and then just use the Overall to control the final output. 50% is a bit weak and could force you to use high overall volumes, introducing extra hiss because of the Signal To Noise floor. Ok for the wide stereo if you like. Speaker Mode set to WALL is good if you really have the amp close to a wall, but in general would be better to keep a bit of air around, and set it just as FLOOR.
Let me know if this helps. :)
C'mon it's not rocket science! :)
In that page you linked, you have 3 rolldown choices in the top. There put Helix on the first, ALL SOFTWARE on the second, and Windows 10 (or your OS) on the third.
You'll be redirect to a page with ALL software you need; Editor, Workbench and Updater.
I'd also try to roll back to a previous firmware. I've seen people solving that way.
In general; I would invest 40 or 50 bucks in a 300Watt UPS (APC or similar). You'll get a stabilized and filtered line, voltage stabilization, power protection and spike leveling, plus a good battery backup which give you a good 20/30 minutes of energy to (hopefully) conclude the process.
Not sure what would happen if Helix stay awake but you drop the internet connection. Probably nothing, as the Helix start updating once the update has been cached.
Update seems working great!
Few things; Seems the MIDI clock sync does skip some bit and it does not sync back. I just had few sessions using RC300 mastering the Helix, but after few minutes I saw the Helix was not blinking same tempo. Then I tried to test my theory assigning the tempo to a delay with 100% feedback, and I've seen that was changing along time (was like speeding up, very slowly). Odd stuff.
Second thing; I'm not sure I got how the OSC are working. I heard they are working through momentary switches but how? Can we have some procedure to make it working?
Love the autoswell!!! ;)
You can connect your Axe L/R output to the FH1500 monitor input, and set gain pot to zero (middle position). This scheme is already bypassing the effect/modeling chain in the amp, but it's better to create a FH1500 preset with all OFF, so you don't get extra noise produced by blocks running in the preset, despite the fact you are not running through that route.
To do so you can use the Firehawk app, create a preset with all blocks off, and in the amp section you can load a NO AMP model from the "clean" amp list. Save this as "BLANK PRESET" and put it in your Tones, or store it in the Amp. Just remember to load this preset every time you use your AXE.
In alternative, you can connect your AXE L/R to the L/R Returns in the FH1500. In both cases check both units are running at same Line or Instrument level.
I'm a dev myself (different market), but our company does really hate denial people. We usually need all kind of constructive feedback, not just people trying to defend their toys and treating other guys like idiots. I'm sure it works the same at L6. Proof is they are keep improving and developing, despite the fact you were seeing fanboys saying it was perfect after day 1. :)