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Posts posted by PierM

  1. The G10TII transmitter took over the legacy G10T, which was the transmitter with some overheating problems.


    The receivers/chargerg base, G10 and G10S, didn't changed since the original production.


    The infamous firmware was affecting only the old transmitter, G10T, so doesn't relate to your model TII.


    The 2.05 update (for the GTII), does also require the base to be updated to 1.05.


    You don't have to update if you don't want to. If you are fine with the way your Relay works, just ignore it.


    If aint broken, don't fix it. :) 

  2. On 9/6/2022 at 1:00 AM, boynigel said:

    I don't know where you live, but where I live a fm9 is NOT 2X the price of my Helix LT.  Not even close.


    Europe. Last time I looked at the FM9, was listed at 2499€. I guess it depends on the EUR/USD exchange, but yeah...never seen a FM9 priced as the helix. Not even close. ;)


    EDIT: I see this is called "FM9 Turbo", so maybe it cost more than the original version, dunno. Anyway, this is the only model you can pre-order over EU.

    • Upvote 1
  3. On 9/5/2022 at 9:55 PM, boynigel said:

    Another potential selling point of the fm9 is 4 cores versus 2 cores in the helix.  more HP. 


    Does also cost twice the helix. I wouldnt call this a "selling point". You are just paying for those extra cores.

  4. On 8/28/2022 at 10:36 PM, pipelineaudio1 said:

    I've tried everything I can think of and two different transmitters on the g50 and it goes red with the louder pickups. I figure Its overloading the A/D on the transmitter side (I assume the relay is digital?)


    Yes it is digital. I see the EMG 707 has a strum output peak voltage around 4.5V, which is very hot.


    The Duncan Blackouts should sits around 3V, but still very hot for any wireless system without a sensivity control.



    • Like 1
  5. On 8/26/2022 at 3:31 PM, theElevators said:

    Yeah, I've seen this video.  Just want to understand if the switches tend to all slowly fail one-by-one, or if they can somehow "break in" and become more dependable? 


    Well, it's mechanical stuff, so soon or later they are all gonna die. Every switch in the world has a lifespan measured in cycles (clicks).

    The average lifespan of those tactile switch is declared to be 100,000 Cycles, which means it will start glitching as you get closer to this number. Of course it also depends how the unit it's being used (and abused) and exposed to contamination (dust, heat, humidity, water etc etc). If you are an heavy stomper and a touring musician, I'd say let's cut this number in half. :)


    Usually, when happens to me (not only with Helix but with everything using those tactile switches), I start cleaning them, then if problem come back means it's time to swap them with new parts. (If you're not sure how to do the job, better to have L6 doing that, or any other expert that does know what he's doing).


    The way you describe it, looks like it could just be a temporary glitch...maybe some extra dust particles, or a bit of oxidation.


    Just wait and see what happens. If it will come back soon, means it's time to clean them all (and see what happens next).




    • Upvote 2
  6. On 8/26/2022 at 9:28 AM, bloomk said:

    Did line 6 just forget about us? Why is there no windows 11 support yet. 


    What's the problem exactly? I do have W11 in both laptop and main DAW, and I have no problems with Helix software and drivers.


    Am I missing something? :)

    • Upvote 1
  7. The FS on the Helix (all of them) are NOT real FS, but just mechanical assembly that are pressing against micro tactile switches, so spraying stuff from the outside, is doing nothing other than creating a dust trap.




    If you want to properly clean (and check) those tactile switch, you need to open the unit and proceed as you see here (AT YOUR OWN RISK TO DAMAGE THE UNIT);



    • Thanks 1
    • Upvote 2
  8. Are the stock presets sounding properly? Have you tried modifying one of those preset amp blocks?


    If the original presets are working fine, then you are probably doing something wrong indeed. :)

    • Upvote 1
  9. On 8/22/2022 at 10:57 AM, RyanRC said:


    As in the end, that is all I am saying is the way it should be made.


    You seems acting a bit denial now.


    We explained to you that EMIs and Ground Loops aren't something you can control and design into a device, especially that small.


    EMIs especially, are an ENVIRONMENT factor, that it has variables that aren't depending from the HX Stomp alone, or whatever audio interface or pedal you are using. It's a cross contamination between emitters of electromagnetism in a closed or small environment. Please don't let us going into details about the inductive, radiative, conductive and capacitive coupling loops. It's pointless for you, it's boring and wont solve your issues.


    These are things that happens all the time, no matter the brand or the product. Just google randomly "kemper ground loop noise", or "Fractal ground loop noise", or "AxeFX insane noise from PC". You'll find dozens of similar experiences, in any sound/audio compartment.


    You still have to find your way. Keep trying, moving your PC in a different location, raising the distance between stomp and PC, changing angles between your guitar and PC, in relation with monitors, or in relationship with the stomp. Try different sockets and guitar cables... Try different shoes. I mean, it's like that man. EMIs are a lollipop to break down. 


    I know sounds annoying when other users tell you they don't have anything like you are having, but yeah... you need to deal with it. It just means isn't about HX Stomp, but about the environment and all the electrical elements inside and outside it. That's it. :)

    • Upvote 1
  10. On 8/19/2022 at 12:44 PM, canmetal said:


    I think for Kill'em All the cabs used Greenbacks 25 as the V30s didn't come out until 86.  I know for Ride they used Creambacks 65.  This is why on the patch with Stock Cabs I used the Greenbacks cab and it does sound OK, need to probably increase the mids, which BTW helped to get me closer on my 2x12.




    I think you are right about V30. Funny is, that info is coming from a Hetfield interview. Probably a bit of brain fog . :)

    • Haha 1
  11. ROffset does affect (offset) the amount of dBs needed to attack and release the swell. It helps A LOT to quick shape the swell for different guitars with different output, as well to shape the swell for slow or fast playing.


    I'm using it A LOT, and as soon as you know how it works it's very efficient. In this video, apart the first glitches to create the loop, I'm using it almost all the time.



    • Upvote 2
  12. On 8/17/2022 at 10:02 PM, Ludie said:

    I bought a spare battery when I got my JTV-59.  The original battery charges fine.  The spare only charges to the point where I get two green lights on the back of the guitar when I install it.  Is it defective, or is there a way to drain it and charge fully?



    Same happened to me, with my main JTV-59 battery. And this happened since first use, so I guess was an old battery, probably left without juice for years, sitting in its box. I don't think you can do anything to it.

  13. For Kill'em All James Hetfield used a modded Marshall '59 SLP coupled with a Marshall 1960B 4x12 cab (sporting 4 Celestion Vintage 30).


    The only pedal was a first gen Rat, but most of that tone was coming from that cranked Marshal.


    As said above, mids were on the high zone. They started scooping mids later, and killing them all (pun intended) in Master of Puppets with the classic Metallica "V shaped" EQ.

  14. There are bugs that can be triggered only if a complex series of conditions are valid and happening at the same time, or in a specific sequence. They can be very tricky to track down (debug) and being able to replicate a bug, doesnt even mean they know the cause. 


    It's up to L6, once reproed a bug, to start a branch to investigate, track down, debug, solve, test and release a fix. Problem is, sometimes these bugs are affecting a very small percentage of userbase, so they probably think It is not worth it.



    • Upvote 1
  15. On 8/11/2022 at 11:48 PM, oldmanrockband said:

    Just bought a brand new Line6 Relay G10 unit. It's been on charge for 6 hours now. Still flashing red on the base. No lights whatsoever on the transmitter. (Transmitter is marked only as 'G10' no 'T' on it)

    The reason I bought this is that my original G10 works flawlessly with my spider V240, but I need to be able to charge the transmitter without taking my amp out of the car all the time. Plus, it would give me a spare transmitter. Having read this thread, this purchase may have been a big mistake!


    Are you sure you fully pushed the transmitter down to the base? The base does flesh red even when the transmitter isn't fully docked. Happened to me when I first bought my first G10...:P

    • Like 1
  16. On 8/12/2022 at 4:19 AM, z3albw1rr said:

    Well that's fair, but consider this: I had an M13 that sounded great. Why shouldn't this "new and improved product" that contains the legacy effects version from the M13 sound just as good?


    The problem is, all things point to I should be able to get the sounds out of the Helix, but something's going on...


    But yeah starting to look like I need to sell it and just waste the time going through analog pedals and just doing it old school. I don't have much money, and this was a "once in a decade" purchase (my M13 I bought in 2013) and I don't like messing with selling things at a loss so I'm trying to "make it work" so I didn't lose my butt on this.




    It happens sometimes. For example, I still prefer the fender amp sims I do have in my FH 1500, which is considered "old gen" - and never really digged those in the Helix, at a level that I dropped the amp/cab all together and moved to a Iridium for the amp/cab simulation. Never looked back. Still using the HX for everything else I need and that works for me.


    Happens, especially when you are expecting a specific sound that you already know and that's printed in your memory producing a bias (like your old M13 stuff), or in my case when you know the real deal (as I've those fender amps so I know how they should sound), and I can say they aren't just there in the HX but they were in the Firehawk...so yeah, I moved on to find a smaller footprint platform (than the boat anchor FH1500) that worked for me for that specific tone.


  17. On 8/11/2022 at 8:19 PM, pureaddict said:

    As I've mentioned, my first post WAS asking too much, I have simplified it, your input would be appreciated :D



    2 delays in parallel, 1 reverb and a cab sim

    amp fx loop -> HX input -> delays+reverb -> HX Send -> amp fx return -> amp di -> HX Return -> Cab sim -> HX out -> FOH


    That is already covered by the rd2rk post. :)

    • Upvote 1
  18. On 8/11/2022 at 7:33 PM, pureaddict said:

    I appreciate your response.


    As far as I can tell it's 5 blocks including the block for 4cm. 2 delays in parallel, 1 reverb and a cab sim. (6 if parallel needs a block idk, I dont have one)


    I was thinking I could go amp fx loop -> HX input -> delays -> HX Send -> amp fx return -> amp di -> HX Return -> Cab sim -> HX out -> FOH


    Is it not possible to flow in and out of the device this way?







    Isnt about number of blocks, but about how much DSP each effect is eating. :) Freeze/hold (poly sustain), tape delay, digital delay, reverb, cab/IR....that's too much DSP for the stomp.


    PS: my comment is referred to your original plan, first post. :)

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