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Posts posted by grdGo33

  1. You could also try Audacity or some other recording software to really pinpoint the issue to being cubase, or if it's general (driver) or whatnot.


    Also what drivers are you using?  ASIO is what is suggested for low latency playback, anyway, I'm definitely not the expert here...  But yeah if you get the same issue using the same driver, well, likely driver issue, if in Audacity using the same driver it works flawlessly, then the issue is likely cubase or cubase + driver...  At least it would help you in your search to correct the issue.

  2. On 11/13/2020 at 3:43 PM, Vics53 said:

    But if I get one, I've got the time! First things first: I am NOT a computer guy by any stretch. The things that are a snap for most is a foreign language to me! Of what I understand I would have to connect the Pod Go to my laptop in order to get it going and to start diving into the workings and edits of it. My laptop is an HP 15-gt0119 (Windows 8) that I bought in 2014. Ancient technology by todays standards, no doubt. Speaker system is an Altec Lansing that I've had for many years. So for right now the big question is, would my laptop be enough to handle the Pod Go? I'd hate to get a Pod Go only to find out my laptop wouldn't do the job. As said, need to watch the pennies!


    I have other questions but that will be later. Thanks in advance for your time and expertise. Have a good day!


    I'd be scared if I were you...

    1) the L6 updater and firmware update of the Pod Go are ...  Rather bugged, and a TON of people get issues when updating, which crashes their devices, then they have to mess around installing other crap and retrying and retrying, so if you are not a computer guy, GOOD LUCK !!!

    2) Pod Go is sadly unstable...  It can just crash on you, so during a performance, that could be embarrassing.  It's crashed on me a couple of times, but if it's for live gigs... Buyer beware...

    3) How much do you enjoy tinkering?  I'd say that for me, although I do kinda like my Pod Go, if I had the chance to rebuy, I might have gone with a different product.  PG is powerful, but it's a pain in the butt to use. 

    4) Its GUI are borderline m0ronic in general, it's tedious to setup using the PG itself, less tedious from PG Edit but then you can't control PG entirely from PG Edit, so you must have access to PG Edit + PG to have a sort of non-r3tarded interface...  (ex; Much more practical to edit via PG Edit, but  you can't do quite a few things from PG edit, which requires you to still have physical access to PG do those things...  So require the 2 'control interfaces' to have optimal control.  Sad that PG Edit can't do everything it should...)


    So given 4 & 5, don't expect the PG setup to be easy and pleasant.  Ex; if you want to compare cabs with PG, you have to select cab, scroll through 45 amps to select another one, you then have to select the mic, the distance of the mic, blablabla, and then you play your guitar, was it better before?  So to check, you have to select cab, scroll through 45 amps to select another one, you then have to re-select the mic, the distance of the mic, blablabla.  And that process took like 5 minutes.  PAIN IN THE 4SS.  And there's 60+ cabs, 15 mics, distance can be from 1 foot to 10 feet...  GOOD LUCK WRAPPING YOUR HEAD AROUND THAT!


    So yeah, with 3 and 4 being the biggest annoyances, if I had the chance to redo my PG purchase, I probably wouldn't buy it again.  I'd probably buy or check out one of these simpler units.  But if you're a twiddler and a fiddler, and want max control over everything, and tweak your tone at the max, then PG likely wins.  But below likely better for being simpler and just getting a great tone out of the box, without days or weeks of learning and fiddling...


    - Boss Katana.  More limited than PG, but I'm wasting too much time tinkering with PG than playing.  In your case the head version might be a good choice.

    - Yamaha THR or THX something... Basically size of a amp head, probably lighter, has built in speakers, lots of different sounds, what I'd probably buy instead of PG

    - Positive Grid Spark $250, small, light, good sound it seems, likely simpler and more usable and user friendly than PG ..

    - probably others, but these come to mind..


    I think the above 3 could plug to PA, but I'd do more research for live gigging... Of course if you have to switch patches during gigging that wouldn't work, unless they have foot stomps or whatever, which adds to price, so then I would likely have to check out other pedal board unit, unfortunately, can't say I've done much research of the competition L6 PGo, so maybe it is still the best unit in the price range....  And if it is indeed the only one that can do everything it does, well, no choice... lol  But Boss has a few GT100 and ME-80, anyway...


    Overall, I'd say my experience with PG has been a bit negative.  Too many issues.  Too many GUI & user experience absurdities which are inexcusable in 2020... Like 1st year college student programming garbage that shouldn't have made it to production, etc.ect.  PITA to 'work' with the unit..


    Good thing:  Well it's Helix quality effects...   If you can setup a few patches you like and just play guitar instead of tinkering with the unit and posting in the forums to be able to use the darn thing, PG is for you... But thinking of my last month of guitar, there's been way too much time and energy lost on stup!d L6 PG sh!t that I'd likely not buy it again.


    5) I'd also add that more than a few people have noticed the PG killing amp tone.  Ex:  Turn off all effects, and the PG ruins the tone of the guitar, sounds worse than directly in amp...  So bit disappointing


    So yeah, thinking... Maybe the PG is the 'best' at $450.  Probably.  Before buying, some claimed L6 interfaces were the best, so that why I went with it, so in some sense, if I'm frustrated with PG, I can't even begin to imagine how bad the others must be... Also this was rather negative, but just at least be aware of this before purchasing!  And at worse if you're having issues with software and whatnot, pick a place where you have a good return policy.  But hopefully, won't have such issues!



  3. Quote

    From the 5 lower knobs turn the first knob - labelled 'IR select' above - to scroll through your IR's




    HAHAHAHA!!!   WTF!!!   Why didn't they just use the same logic as with the cabs................   This is so ridiculous... Come on L6...!  


    That kind of BS is honestly some of the worse I've ever seen in commercial products...   I mean... How big is Line6?  If a college student handed out a paper where his GUI had that kind of inconsistent logic, he'd get a bad mark.  How does this fly in a large company?  Don't they have proficient GUI designers for their products, decent programmers, QA worth anything, etc.?  How can this kind of BS go through the design to delivery without anyone raising a red flag?  Absolutely ridiculous...


    But yeah that works... Thanks!  But honestly... Man... This is now getting me depressed and even more disappointed in humanity...  :\    FFS... "You want to select cabs, select cabs on top, and you can see the list of cabs, select one from the list.  Or, you can switch to IR, and there is no list.  You MUST click on "1024 - Sample IR", which will select your 1st IR (and not "1024 - Sample IR".......!) , then you use this different knob in the settings to change the IR"...................   W.............. T...................... F.........................!!!!


    Reminds me of God:  "God made man from dust.  Did he make Women from dust?  No...   From one of man's ribs.  Just coz he could." Like L6 was taking the p!ss...!


    Also, in Pod Go, in in the window where you select either cab or IR, why does it say for IR "1024 Sample IR" ?!   Shouldn't it just say "Impulse Responses" instead of "1024 Sample IR"?  Since when you select, it selects your 1st IR, and not "1024 Sample IR" ...   //me shakes head and sighs...


    Works, thanks!

  4. 18 hours ago, C_berg1980 said:

    "The IR associated with the IR block with in this preset could not be found in the Impulse Library" I can't figure out how to get the IR to load correctly. Any suggestions?




    Is it a patch you've download and imported?   If so, I remember some saying that the IR has to be in a specific slot, so just importing the IR to the 1st position wouldn't work, you would have to import/copy the IR to the position mentioned in the patch.


    If you've created the patch ... !  No idea, I had some IRs which threw errors when importing and could not be imported, but haven't imported some which didn't work.  Maybe you configured the patch then moved/deleted the IR?  I'd just re-select the IR and hope it never happens again...




    Something I've noticed though with IRs is that it a bit annoying, is that they can't seem to be selectable from the Pod Go?  I mean, if I'm editing a patch directly from the Pod Go, it seems like there's always just ONE IR, and it doesn't seem like I can scroll to see the list and select another one...  Looked like you absolutely have to be using PGO Edit to select different IRs?

  5. Line6 does not appear to read this forum.  But yeah there are many threads like this asking for more flexibility, Line6 has never answered any of them.  I don't think I've actually seen a Line6 answer to any topic anywhere...

    • Thanks 1
  6. Or just go Guitar -> PGO -> HX FX -> amp/console/PA instead of using the PGO FX Loop, you're saving a cable and there's not really any point in using the FX Loop, I think...   Yeah especially at the end in the chain like you mentioned, you'd save a useless cable plus a analog/digital conversion.  You can then use the HX FX for post amp/cab effects, and the PGO for pre amp/cab effects.  Pretty cool :)

  7. 1 hour ago, jnonis said:

    By the way, this start looking like community managers doing damage control.


    O RLY?   Search my post history for POD Go Edit: Can you press a footswitch from the app? (PG Edit = suffering)  see if your theory holds up.  lol



    This thread is about full pitch change


    That's the only pitch change I know of.  What other pitch change is there?  Partial pitch change?  Do you mean just the mix; as in the % of 'dry' signal going through?



    The pitch shifter in the Pod Go produce a lot of artefacts which make it useless for that purpose, it behaves exactly like the monophonic pitch shifter in the zoom pedal. But the zoom pedal has other (polyphonic) pitch shifter which behaves better for chords and arpeggios.


    Well at 3:20 you can hear how the Zoom seems to crap out and makes some fugly digital noise...  But maybe like you said it has other modes where it doesn't...


    This one did a comparison with the digitech Drop, spoiler, doesn't find much difference.  But the comments do mention the polyphonic thing, so maybe with clean chords it would be a different matter.



    But yeah as I mentioned, I really don't have a horse in this race.  I don't use the PS, as I find they tend so sound artificial, but yeah, it appears that you are looking for a polyphonic pitch shifter, which the PGO isn't as was mentioned, so a no-go for you it seems!    Happy to have learned about polyphonic pitch shifters, peace!  :)


    22 hours ago, grdGo33 said:

    2)   IN -> VOL -> WAH -> FX LOOP -> DIST -> AMP -> CAB -> DELAY -> REVERB -> OUT  = very high noise, as if the noise gate had been shut down.

    I also don't understand #2, the pedal has virtually no noise, it is really virtually silent:  I can have the PGO and amp volume maxed, and I hear zero no noise.  But if I move the FX Loop before the distortion pedal, it gets VERY noisy.  The amount of noise actually depends on which distortion pedals are used, the two L6 distortion being the worse culprits.  But since the Looper pedal makes virtually no noise, I don't understand why the PGO gets super noisy when the FX loop is before the distortion and 100% noiseless when it is after it...   I mean, if the noise was 0.1dB and the distortion bumped it to 0.4dB that would be normal or expected.  But as is, it's really like the noise of the pedal is 0.001dB, but when you turn on the distortion pedal, it becomes 1dB, which is a totally abnormal and unexpected amount of 'amplified' noise, since there's no noise to begin with...


    Think I'm slowly figuring it out...  The Looper pedal isn't actually that silent, it just appears to be 100% silent because of the noise gate... (duh!)  My bad...   So it does have its inherent noise.  So when your guitar is plugged to looper to Go, there's no noise because of the noise gate.  But when you introduce the looper pedal through FX Loop, FXL doesn't have a noise gate, noise gets introduced.  Logical.


    But it doesn't explain why it clips when at the end of the chain.  I think it might be because of some volume wizardry of the PGO.   And yeah, just tested it, and it seems to be the case.  PGO is weird with volume...  If I use the looper at the start of the chain and play some chords, let's say it'll be 10dB.  But if I play the same thing and record with the looper at the end of the PGO chain, then the volume is like 30dB.  And it clips.  Which isn't too surprising, as the looper is likely designed for instrument level, and PGO's end of chain volume is likely stronger than what a normal instrument would generate.


    So it's a patch volume level issue.  I'm guessing that if you want to use a looper pedal in that fashion, your patches need to take into consideration SPL at the end of the chain, otherwise, it can 'overwhelm' your guitar pedals and make them clip.  OR, set your FX Loop send to something like -13dB in my specific case, which results to a more normal input loudness for the pedal, and then it works without clipping.


    Which also means that you have to be careful with other devices output/input volumes.  Lowering PGO's volume could result in improved performance.  And going with many of the patches I've downloaded, where people max out the amp's channel and master volume, it's likely to cause similar issues when outputting to consoles, recording software (maybe), and even things like the return of power cab or amp or whatever.. etc...

  9. 11 hours ago, jnonis said:

    Ok, seems like you have not tried the pitch shifter in zoom devices, and you are talking based on something that you found on internet.

    I've tried both, I have the zoom pedal connected to the effects loop of the Pod Go right now, the zoom does the job, it has latency and change the guitar tone (which is expected in this kind of effects) but is useable, the Simple Pitch in the Pod Go is not useable.


    I went into this with an open mind, knowing the PGO isn't the best at everything, and having tried the pitch shifter and found it to be a bit lacking, not compared to other units, but just as in not sounding as real as a note without pitch shift (obviously).  But it doesn't seem to be worse than the Zoom, quite the contrary, to my ears, seems to sound a lot closer to the Eventide, which I think is a good thing, since it's a standalone 499 harmonizer...  (PGO's effects are identical to Helix products)


    Maybe you're just used to the tone of the Zoom effect and you have set that as your internal reference, and so anything which doesn't sound like it doesn't sound right to you?  Or any clip of something sounding 'right' vs something sounding 'wrong'?  As per the below video, the Zoom does not sound better to me.  Different sure, and if that's your thing ok, but I wouldn't say that PGO's Pitch Shifting is worse. 



  10. So I'm still confused about what is happening with the PGO FX Loops...   So I have a looper pedal.  Depending on where the FX Loop sits in the chain, I get weird noise artifacts.  And that is with the looper 'off'; not looping at all:


    1)   IN -> VOL -> WAH -> DIST -> AMP -> CAB -> DELAY -> REVERB -> FX LOOP -> OUT  = noticeable clipping/distortion in the sound

    2)   IN -> VOL -> WAH -> FX LOOP -> DIST -> AMP -> CAB -> DELAY -> REVERB -> OUT  = very high noise, as if the noise gate had been shut down.

    3)   IN -> VOL -> WAH -> DIST -> FX LOOP -> AMP -> CAB -> DELAY -> REVERB -> OUT  = absolutely ZERO noise, distortion or clipping, works perfectly.


    Can anyone figure why that would be?   I thought that because of #1, there was an issue between PGO and the looper pedal, but since with #3 it works perfectly, it doesn't appear to be an issue between PGO and the pedal. 


    I also don't understand #2, the pedal has virtually no noise, it is really virtually silent:  I can have the PGO and amp volume maxed, and I hear zero no noise.  But if I move the FX Loop before the distortion pedal, it gets VERY noisy.  The amount of noise actually depends on which distortion pedals are used, the two L6 distortion being the worse culprits.  But since the Looper pedal makes virtually no noise, I don't understand why the PGO gets super noisy when the FX loop is before the distortion and 100% noiseless when it is after it...   I mean, if the noise was 0.1dB and the distortion bumped it to 0.4dB that would be normal or expected.  But as is, it's really like the noise of the pedal is 0.001dB, but when you turn on the distortion pedal, it becomes 1dB, which is a totally abnormal and unexpected amount of 'amplified' noise, since there's no noise to begin with...



  11. 15 hours ago, voxman55 said:

    @grdGo33 how do you import multiple IRs?  (I'm also looking for a way to export multiple patches ... but not as a bulk download)


    Same way as 1 IR, but you just select multiple files by holding shift.  From what I can recall, you can't select multiple folders, but what you can do as a workaround, do a file search for wave files (*.wav), so you'll see a list of all the IR files, and copy them all to a temporary folder.  Then you can select them all in one go from the temporary folder.  You might have to fiddle file names, there's some software which can automatically append folder names and other rules, ex;


    But yeah with that, you can do it fairly efficiently.  But again, it's a workaround for the poor PGO software, as importing multiple folders at once could have been supported...

    • Thanks 1
  12. Quote

    I guess they were trying to make the user experience as simple as possible


    Not that it applies here, but "never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity".  For programming, you could say that you should never attribute the intent of simplicity to what can be attributed to the simplest/cheapest way to do something.  There's also the KISS acronym, and figuring what is the minimum required features and doing the least possible to achieve them...


    Of course, they could have had dynamic blocks, and some status bars on top of each effect to indicate the % of resources they'll consume, and honestly that would have confused nobody.  But that would have meant more work for them, it would have been more complicated, so I'm pretty damn sure that's why they opted for the simplest solution to implement.  KISS.



    By my arithmetic that's a total of 82.93%


    Not quite sure it's as simple as attributing a percentage for each block...  General computing, it's at least CPU & RAM.  In the Go,  they need to crunch the data within a certain timeframe, so as to the user not noticing any latency.  So yeah if it's only CPU, % could work, but maybe memory is also an issue, and loading multiple blocks could max memory... Who knows...


    But IMHO, other than any technical/programming reason, it could have well been decided in a meeting room with the L6 non-technical teams (sales, marketing, etc) teams.  The more the Go can do, the more it will cannibalize the sales of the more expensive L6 products.


    Hell, take car manufacturers.  They'll sell a $300 option so that your side mirrors can be moved electrically, but the motors are in all the cars, the cars without the option are just missing the electrical wires required for the mirror to work.  Why?  Because it's cheaper to manufacture all cars with those super cheap motors, than manufacturing ars with/without motors...   So don't be surprised if L6 could have done a bunch of stuff, but decided not to do it, not because it wouldn't have made the product better, but because making it better would have been worse for their endgame financial profits.

  13. What are you trying to do?   The 32 vs 80 ohms won't make a world of a difference.  The higher the impedance, the more juice you'll require to get the same volume.   But, the higher ohms version is superior in terms of sound quality; so ex beyer says: 32 ohms for portable, 250 for home on stereo system, 600 ohms with dedicated headphone amplifier.


    Just tried, 50% volume on 32 ohm headphones is about as loud as 80% on a 600 ohms headphone, which ends up about normal listening level.  Maxed the 600 ohms aren't really much louder, so not very loud at all.  The 32 ohms are uncomfortably loud maxed.  So with 80 ohms you should have plenty of volume/power, even if you're trying to damage your hearing.


    Generally, open headphones have a better sound than closed headphones.  But closed headphones obviously block outside noises while open don't. 


    So if you need closed or you think closed would be better, of that list the DT770 is the obvious choice, but you could also add as mentioned the audiotechnica ATHM50x something, or the AKG K550 or K551.  Think they're all good choices.


    For open, the 990 is bright and bass heavy, so if that's what you're looking for, good choice.  If you're looking for a more balanced sound, then the 880 are a much better choice, as is the AKG Q701 or 702.  Sennheiser 599 is also decent, light & comfortable, if you can find a good deal (~100usd), good buy.  HD600 is a classic, but more expensive.  But true, the massdrop 6xx for $220, great buy.  It's similar to the classic HD600 might arguably be the most iconic headphone ever.  But it is 300 ohm ... 


    But as I said it depends what you'll use them for, probably for general stuff as well, so getting open would give you the better sound for the money.  But they won't block out sound, and everyone will hear very loudly what you're listening to or playing.  So open are 'better', but if you need closed, then you need closed...  I'd say skip the 990, so that leaves the 880 or the Q701/K702, both great and can't really go wrong with either; both have their fanbase and are classic/great headphones.  and 6xx.


    The 6xx is basically the HD650 which was the 'successor' (never really replaced, kinda more like a side-step / brother) to the iconic HD600, and you'll find hordes of fans which will tell you that they're the best headphones ever.  FWIW, I once heard the 650 and I wasn't overly impressed, but these 3 (6xx, 702, 880) are imho pretty much all classics and great buys.   If you'll use them for other stuff, computer, music, etc., you might also consider getting an amp, like schiit has a 99$ amp which is great.  There's plenty of even cheaper amp options also.  Then you'd also have a great listening rig.



  14. Just to conclude!  If you're starting out with IRs, thanks again @voxman55 and @olerabbit grab these:


    1) ML Sould Lab best IR,  It's just one IR, but it's pretty good, very balanced!  Just sounds 'right'. Sound Lab's BEST IR IN THE

    2) L6 Allure pack, 6 IRs, but they're pretty good.

    3) Seacow's Christmas pack.  It contains a 45 IRs, they're pretty good sounding all quite varied.


    Just with these 3 downloads, you'll end up with around 50 IRs, and while it takes some time to import them all, once you have them it's much easier to jump from on IR to the other, and it's much simpler/faster than going through the L6 PGO cab/mic/distance thing.  I mean, when you click on a Mesa Boogie cab, you'll instantly get the Mesa sound, same for Marshall, and for some reason seem to make the sound 'pop' a little more than the default cabs seem to do...  They just instantly give you "the sound".


    But still they don't sound drastically different to the L6 cabs, comparing a Fender one with the same mic they sounded basically identical, but, just being able to click on an IR is much better than having to select the cab, then change the mic, and then change the distance.  Plus not having to remember exactly what every cab/mic/distance setting sounds like and having to endlessly experiment with settings...  A much easier/faster process, and absolutely ZERO messing around with mics/distance, priceless!   Just having these 50 cab options would take you weeks of trial/error configuring the default cabs, and most likely you'd just never get to experience these sounds...


    Surprisingly, I was expecting the Tone Junky IRs to sound great, but I found the sound from their free pack to be quite bland and disappointing... Even if some said TJ's IRs were fantastic, I couldn't hear it...  Might be amp matching...  So far I just mainly used the Dirty Placater Amp with heavy riffs;  haven't gotten around to clean and lead.  So maybe they'll do better there...  But yeah to me the above 3 IR packs all sounded quite a bit better.


    Also Seacow has a lot of cabs and IRs...  But my issue is that in packs, when you're getting 500 IRs at once, when you get 50 IRs for 1 cab; 10 different mics & 4 different placements for each, that's just too many, and kinda pointless unless you're so picky about your IRs and you're really anal about your mic & placement and want that exact sound...!  It becomes obfuscation through quantity...  For me, too many options, scrolling, and 50 IRs for 1 cab is just too much; much prefer the above packs simplicity!  :D 


    Oh, and btw, you can import multiple IRs at once...   Don't do like me and import them 1 by 1... lol

    • Like 1
  15. Why would setting it last be any worse than setting in first?  If the out/in have noise or quality issues, the noise will be the same if it's first or if it's last.  Even logically, well depending on whether your block chain ends up increasing or decreasing the overall signal, putting it last might have less noise.  Since if your noisy signal is put at the start of your chain and your chain increases the overall volume, the noise will equally be increased, whereas if it was last, in the contrary the noise/distortion from the FX loop would be lower relative to the overall loud sound.

  16. 1 hour ago, voxman55 said:

    As I said, Pod Go is not 'plug n play' - and it isn't for everyone but hey, I'm an oldie and I had to go on a learning curve too, but if I can pretty much suss it out enough to get good tones, I'm sure you can too. But (and I'm being serious) if you really don't have the patience/inclination and don't want to go through that effort and just want to plug in and play (which I totally respect & get!)  I honestly think its the wrong unit for you and perhaps a more straightforward stomp pedal like unit such as the Boss ME80 might better suit your personal needs?  It sounds great, its built like a tank, has loads of features, and is very straightforward to use - effectively it's a series of stomp boxes with real knobs.  I seriously thought about an ME70 or ME80 but it didn't suit my personal needs.  However, a very good friend of mine uses it professionally and he swears by it.   

    Bit too late for that!  :)    (L6 cab ranting spoilered)



    The cabs imho are a bit of a mess.  Since the distance and the mic are equally important as the cab, as I said earlier they should have split them into an independent block, so that you could change cabs without changing the mic & distance and vice versa.  It's a hassle to try to compare cabs with current GUI...  That would have made it less of a PITA to deal with cabs.  


    Maybe better cab/mic presets ('optimal' mic setup for cab) could have helped, existing setups seem almost random...  Ex; Orange cab sounds dreadful...  Hoping it's not the real cab lol   Or cab presets ex; once you've selected your cab, you could scroll through a few mic+distance presets of tried & tested in the industry setups.  That could also have been great; much more noob friendly.



    But anyway, IR largely solves the cab issue for me.  Now it's much more easier to just go from one IR to the next, without having to tweak mic & distance every single time!   So far I'm really liking the ML Sound Lab's BEST IR IN THE WORLD, not sure what it is exactly though, Boogie maybe?  "ML mix IR", maybe mix of IRs/cabs/mics also...  But I guess that's the beauty of it, it's one click away instead instead of a huge headache away! :D   Kalthallen also seem to sound pretty good, but haven't tested them all.


    But yeah, so far, I'm really happy with the IRs I've tried so far!  :D


    Oh, and trying to find out what the ML best IR is, saw this below, so while I don't doubt the L6 cabs can all be made to sound phenomenal with time & dedication, very likely that there's many IR that can be achieved IRL which are just not possible with the L6 cab parameters.  From dual cabs, multiple mics, angling the mics, positioning them differently vs driver, etc.,  The more I think about it, the more using IR make sense as the better solution! 



     Still most of an IR producer's job is to know how to mic up cabs well and that takes years of practice. I've had a self-built 4x12 sized xyz-axis microphone robot for 3 years prior to Dynamount creating that xy-axis robot which is what pretty much every other IR producer is using. If you've ever miked a guitar cab you'll know that a guitar speaker sounds completely different if you f.ex. pull the mic straight up or to the side. The best mic positions are usually somewhere in-between "straight up" or "to the side" and most IR producers never even try those positions. Try the freebie and if it's not at all your thing then you'll at least know:


  17. @voxman55  Thx for the ML Soundlap 'best' IR I'll try it out a bit later!   I didn't dl so far the packs; some ask for payment even if it's for 0$, etc, but this one seems to have quite a few which can be downloaded without hassle! 


    Tone junkies also looks good, and the later links also contain non-hassle downloads, Seacow, KalthallenCabsIR, etc, big thanks!  :D


    On 10/12/2020 at 2:05 PM, voxman55 said:

    Think of it like choosing a car - before you buy you need to decide what makes you like - Ford, Mercedes, BMW etc (akin to Marshall, Fender, Vox etc), how many doors (3,4, 5 - akin to 1x12, 2x12, 4x12 speaker) then the specific model (eg Vox 2x12 Blues, Silver, greenbacks), then how does it feel to drive ie how does the cab sound to you?


    Except I wouldn't be buying a car, I would be downloading free cars!  So you could tell me; well here's a Ferrari SF90, here's a McLaren 720s, Porsches GT3RS, here's an F1, here's a Tesla, Ford truck, a jeep, a RollsRoyce, BMW Sedan, Mercedes SUV, etc.!  And I could drive around with all of them  ;)



    Once you've found a few favourite stock cabs that work for you


    But yeah I understand the basics of cabs, mics & distance.  I'm not just super interested in getting a PHD in Pod Go Cabs science at the moment...  Just wanna play music!  And the way the L6 PGO works, I find that it's more of a deterrent to me; I'm wasting more time on this cab/mic/distance sh!t than just enjoying playing guitar!  If IRs can simplify my life and give me just a dozen awesome cab tones (that people have spent years learning and developing) without requiring me to mess with L6 cab-sh!t for days/weeks/months, huge win for IRs for now!  :D



    IMHO, L6 cabs/mics/dist, I feel like it's a little bit where you want to get a particular result, ex; '1000' and you have a formula (((X*Z + 43) / 6) + (Y/Z + 33)) / ((Z+12 -X)/3), and you have 30 different values for X (45, 64, 32, 14, ...), 15 different values for Y (675, 1, 35, 54, 12...) and 30 values for Z (1,2,3,4,5,6,77,8888,9999,etc), and you're trying to get as close as you can using a combination of variables.  Sure, X = existing cabs, Y = mics, Z = distance.  But that just complicates cr4p.  If you had a choice of different coherent useful cab parameters like you do for amp (drive, sag, highs, lows, clarity/muddiness, breakup, distortion,  etc., but in 'cab' vocabulary), then it would surely be simpler to get to your desired result rather than being required to have the knowledge of a studio engineer & know about amps and mics & stuff... 


    This mic does this better than that mic but doesn't do that very well, same for the cab, this is great, but this does this badly and that only ok, then you move the mic forward 2 inch and this is better but that went to sh!t, so you move it to 3 inch and it this thing but broke this other thing, so ...   (╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻)     


    When talking about 'favorite stock cab', it's like asking me what my favorite value for X is...  Well I don't have a clue, since I can never 'hear' X by itself, I'm always hearing it through Y and Z and Y and Z have a greater effect than X...   You're always hearing the combination of XYZ, never X by itself, so 'favorite X' makes little sense to me...  Sure as I said I got 'decent' results with some amps, but it's like me trying to build a car from random parts of different cars, never being able to get it exactly what I'd like, and always frustrated that I can't get it exactly like I'd want... 


    And now just giving up on the DIY sh!t and wanting a pre-built car which I know should be great (IR).  lol


    So yeah sure I can get decent usable tones, it's just never as I exactly want it, but you could argue that I'm being too picky...


    @olerabbit thx for the Allure pack I tried it a bit earlier and they really sound great!


    6 hours ago, olerabbit said:

    Besides this I tried some free IRs, too, but was rather disappointed. To my ears it's a questrion of matching frequencies.

    Most of the IRs that I tested did not harmonize with the PodGo's amp models soundwise. 

    From 10 free IRs I tested only 1 was an improvement of sound - but only with 2 of POD Go's amp models.


    :\   Hmmm...  Lost me on harmonizing!  ;)  But yeah I see them more as templates for the moment; instead of having to mess with the L6 cab/mic/dist, you just pick an IR based on a cab, don't worry about the details and use that.  And if say I know that 3 IRs are based on the same cab and are good representatives of the tone of the cabs, already that's a huge improvement vs the L6 too confusing because of too many variables configure your own recording studio setup...   I'm sure you can get great results with the L6 stock cabs, it's likely just more hassle than IRs, and if I can just load a few IRs and be satisfied, I'll be happy & content!  But yeah to me the Allure pack IRs sounded great, ¯\_(ツ)_/¯  


    I'll definitely also try Vox's best ML and 


    Thanks!  :D    

  18. On 10/3/2020 at 2:23 PM, HansD said:

    Thanx for your reply cristt. I tried different cables including TRS cables, but there's no difference. I will submit a support ticket.

    The thing that surprises me, is that there has been no comments from others about this. The difference in tone is quite severe.


    Any improvement/news/update after speaking to L6 or trying different stuff?

  19. Jesus...  1st link...   " 700+ Mesa OS IRs (.wav)"!   o.0


    Yeah the main issue for me is always being overwhelmed with options.  In PGO:  There's 16 mics.  There's 30 cabs.  There's at least 10 mic usable positions.  (typical mic placement is 1 to 5 inch?).  So that's what, like 5000 possibilities?  Sure, not all are useful, but I'm having great trouble wrapping my head around the sound of the cab, the sound of the mics and the exact effect of the combinations of those vs distance.  700+ Mesa OS IRs is a bit similar, I can't see myself scrolling through 700+ IRs, that would take me years!   lol


    Hence, if there's already 'renown' classic great sounding IRs, well, since you're not dealing with cabs/mic/distance, and are just getting IR sound, that's way simpler.  Maybe at least use them as reference...   Ex: If I were trying to make Bourbon, and I have a bunch of ingredients; I'd be asking, what are the best Bourbons I should taste to know what great Bourbon is supposed to taste like?  Having then a crate with 700+ different bourbon bottles would just get me drunk lol


    For the L6 cabs, yeah, read a bit on mics and cabs and and setup some patches, but not sure how much better/worse good IRs would sound in comparison.  Too many options I didn't try, if just plugging an IR would give me better sound with less hassle...!


    And for using the L6 cabs, it's super annoying that the mic is stuck with the cab.  If I could set the mic & distance and just switch cab that would be one thing, but having to reconfigure the mic & distance each time you switch cab is super annoying... (don't think you can...)  Also, as per the above, never know if you're missing out on a great cab/mic/distance combination, but often it seems it ends up with "well I guess it sounds ok now, but if only it could be a little bit more like this and a bit less like that", and given just the cab/mic/distance combination possibilities, it's like rocket science, would probably take dozens of scientific papers to be able to explain the relation between them all and what combinations results in the 'best' combinations for different purposes...

  20. Thanks!!!  :D  Have you made some more?  I'm also trying to find some good IRs, having dual cabs ones would be great since I also heard good things about them.  I'm entirely new to IRs so really am in the learning phase.  One thing, I think setting up the high and low cut in the IR isn't a good idea, since you can just set them in the IR settings, but if they're cut off from the IR itself, then it's gone forever and you cannot get those frequencies back...


    I think some of the IRs are more suited for some amps/styles, so if not used 'correctly', it might not sound good/great even if it is in fact a fantastic IR?  For this one, I just quickly tested with a Placater dirty (default settings), and maybe because I'm more accustomed to Ribbon mics so far, so it seemed to sound fairly balanced but seemed to somehow have a smoothing effect to the amp's distortion? 


    So yeah I guess for finding an IR, what you're trying to achieve (style of music, amp, etc.) might be more critical than the IR 'quality' itself?  I'd guess this particular IR would be better suited for a classic rock / marshall sound rather than a more modern/heavier/aggressive/saturated type of sound?  Or are IRs generally supposed to be great at everything or are they more generally targeted to a particular style?

  21. Just curious if someone found some good free impulse responses?  Not that I'd be absolutely opposed to paying for some, but I'd rather start to get familiar with them and what they bring to the table, instead of just spending money where I'm not sure it'll be so fruitful.




  22. I tried on mine and I do also get some high end reduction it seems like.  Not drastic, but noticeable.  Still, could be placebo, but I'm fairly confident I could differentiate it in a DBT...  One thing though is that it could be a volume level, are the guitar & Go using the same volume?  If not, if your guitar is louder than the go maybe you're getting more tube saturation/distortion and that's what you interpret as sparkle...


    Other than that, my theories would be:


    1) Going through the Go is bound to affect the signal in some way.  Some pedals have "true bypass", but in case of Go, being digital, even when you're turning everything off in software, you're still going through the analog and digital conversion, and all of the circuits of the Go.  If the Go was perfect, you couldn't hear any of it, but it appears that it isn't optimal and it does, as you describe, suck the tone...  :\

    2) Could be impedance related; when the guitar is connected directly to the amp, it creates a circuit; and in simple terms, the guitar affects the amp and the amp affects the guitar.  (all offer different resistances and work 'as a whole').   When you're plugging in the Go, well now you've completely change the circuit; Guitar -> Go -> amp -> Go -> Guitar, so now everything has changed...  Maybe that also has an effect on your tone... (theory on my part, I know impedance affects electronics, but not quite certain about PUs & amps.  Maybe no effect, maybe someone knows lol)

    3) You're also using an extra cable which will also have an effect, the longer cable the more effect... 


    So in the end, I'm guessing it's the sum of all of the above.  But I'm surprised that other devices like HD500 & others wouldn't have such impact...  Is the Go really worse than others?  I'd be curious now to know if the other Helix products would have the same 'tone sucking quality' that the Go seems to have...

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