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Posts posted by grdGo33

  1. And Bonus questions...  As soon as I assign 2 things, the light color changes to white...  So

    1) if I wanted to turn off a distortion and change the level, is there any way to still have the light shine as yellow instead of white?

    2) the white light is now even inverted... Meaning that the distortion is off and it lights up in white, and when distortion is on, it goes dark...  Can you control it so it does the opposite?  [edit: Ok now it somehow inverted and when the light is shining the distortion is on... Not sure how that happened...]  ->  [edit 2: Ok you can reverse it by enaling/disabling the distortion ON THE POD GO...  So, ex; FS is on, you turn the distortion on, and it 'assigns' on FS to on distortion...   And vice-versa.  It doesn't seem to work from the POD Go Edit, the on/off gets all screwy and it just doesn't work, or at least for the life of me I can't figure out how it's supposed to work from PG Edit..........]


    It seems like min/max things just don't work very well and I should just stop bothering with them and instead just aim for 4 snapshots... Would this be a correct assessment?


    Bonus bonus question: 3) Also how do you go back to the button parameters without losing them?   Ex: If I'm on FS5 and I want to edit FS4, when I click on FS4, then it assigns a new min/max thing from the last parameter I touched, and if it was the parameter which was already configured, then I just lose the configured values and it resets back to default min/max...  Sigh... 


    (and by sigh, I mean that at first glance the software seems to work great, and it does work well for its base features.  But as soon as you try to do anything of the more complex stuff, then you realize that it really doesn't work very well and that in fact it's like either idiosyncratic design or just rushed/bad implementation... [edit3] This is frustrating...  So frustrating...  )

  2. Let's say I bind activate Distortion and change the min/max value of some parameter.  Is there any way I can simulate a footswitch press on the Go from PG Edit?  


    Ex: When I click on FS1 button on the "Hide/bypass control" window, it just assigns/resets whatever setting I just changed, (ex; if level was assigned, it'll reset its min to -120dB and max to +20dB) but it doesn't do anything for the current settings; it doesn't turn on/off the distortion and doesn't change the min/max values...  So short of getting up, walking 2 meters to POD Go and hitting the footswitch FS1 manually, you can't simulate a footswitch on or off!?    Rather annoying that apparently you just can't......

  3. 18 hours ago, asturm said:

     I turned it on again in update mode (as I did before) and connected the USB to my PC (as I did before) and tried to update to Firmware v1.11.0 via the Line6Updater (as I did before) the Update finally went through!


    Almost same thing happened to me.  The key to me seemed to be closing the updater after a failed attempt.  The message says to just retry, but I retried multiple times and it didn't work multiple times.  But it worked after closing and unplugging everything...  Maybe it was all fluke though, but since fails all happened rather quickly (maybe even quicker each time?), I think closing updater is indeed key...


  4. On 7/11/2020 at 8:18 PM, voxman55 said:

    Thanks - these are something like £550-600 new so it was a darned good price.  It's just a good 'workhorse' guitar with a nice range of tones that's typically an everyday guitar at home. But I rotate them so the last few days I've been playing my 2009 Daphne blue USA Strat. 


    Btw Vox have you noticed that your Pacifica is noisier than others?  From what I read about the P90, they are extremely noisy, so I now think that there was probably a grounding issue with my 112V, and shielding it somehow fixed it...


    I've seen some reviews vid where they had a Fender strat type guitar, and they had put just copper foil on the PU screws, and the switch, so not even shielding, just grounding the PUs and switch.  I think this is what solved it in my case.


    I guess you could test it with yours, max distortion pedal and amp, see how it sounds, then just touching anything metal, see if the noise changes.  If it does, then probably just using foil on the pickguard, like this, just making sure it also covers the switch, would solve the issue, I would try that before foiling the entire thing...





  5. If you really wanted to 'delete' the presets, you could probably save a 'new preset' or whatever the name of the empty preset is, and save it to all the presets using Pod Go Edit...  That would probably be the fastest way to get rid of the presets!

  6. I was also thinking about shielding the 112V guitar; since it's mostly worse with that one.  And I actually just did that, just using some aluminum foil on the pickguard and in the cavity of the 2 single coils.  The way the humbucker cavity is routed, there's not even enough space for 1 layer of aluminum!  So I thought this would do nothing since I couldn't really shield the humbucker, but lo and behold, it seemed to have worked!  I think it did a good difference, should have been more scientific and do a test before and after, but being lazy, I just did it, and I think it made a difference...


    Oh yeah just compared with another guitar and it's definitely fixed.  Even with 2 distortion pedals + amp drive maxed, well, there's obviously a lot of noise, but no more of that "you need to touch the strings so that it doesn't hum like a mofo!"  :D  So yeah for me at least shielding the guitar made a big difference!

  7. I guess this is where the L6 native comes in?  (


    I don't quite understand though how you could send your guitar sound via audio interface, then have the L6 Native crunch the bits to output the processed sound without latency, but you couldn't send your processed sound from POD Go to your DAW and then just play it in a DAW without noticeable latency...  So I'm thinking that the L6 Native also has serious latency issues and it's fixed in video editing?  After some search; some people are having latency issues with it too, others claim to have none...


    Also these types of latency issue just sound kinda silly... I have a DAC which has pretty much zero latency, 3D games today seem insanely more intensive than just playing the sound from the POD Go, so I can't understand wtf is so complicated to play already processed sound from the Go without latency...!  Blows my mind.  Definitely something I'm missing here.


    Reading up I've now see < ASIO Drivers > mentioned, not sure I was using these or even had these installed, maybe that's part of the issue...  I mean I had massive latency, like >0.2s or something...

  8. 24 minutes ago, phil_m said:

    The delay, or latency, occurs because the audio is being processed through your DAW and then to your speakers. If you connect your speakers directly to the POD Go, you’ll have no latency.


    Yeah obviously...!  ;)


    So there's no DAW or setting or whatever which can reduce the latency enough so that you can effectively output the Go's sound via USB to computer speakers?  I vaguely remember that you can reduce the buffer size (or buffer number?) of the DAW, which reduce latency, haven't tried it yet, but in the same breath he said it also reduce the sound quality, haven't gotten to test it out yet, wonder if it's usable... Hmmm...

  9. 11 hours ago, bassrunner said:

    I also have problems with all of the amplifier sounds giving me a odd distortion sound when I take the Drive above about 4. Sounds like an amp with a 4 X 12 speaker cabinet with one blown speaker. Almost a rattle type of sound.


    Could it be clipping for some reason?  Are you running other effects or have you boosted the volume anywhere else on the chain?  I think it's probably user 'error' as this isn't really the type of 'bug' you encounter...  It's dedicated software + hardware so if it's working on one unit, should work on all, unless your unit has some physical defect somewhere, but then it would likely apply always and not with just a specific setting like 'drive > 4'...


    Could you try just starting from a new preset, with just amp + cab, say Cali Rectifier, increase the drive to 8, should be fine...  I even added EQ +12dB and no issue on my end.  Maybe check your global EQ...   Plus lastly, if you record anything using a DAW, same thing?

  10. You probably looked it up yourself, but main differences; the outputs inputs are limited on the GO, there's no parallel amp in the chain (so couldn't run two different amps to have two different amps in stereo), limited number of blocks compared to helix; you have 4 'anything' block (delay, distortion, effects, compressor, etc.  So you could put 4 distortions ,4 reverbs, etc.), the other blocks (volume/wah pedal, EQ, amp, cab) are static and although they can be moved you can't say replace EQ with reverb.  Also out of I don't know 250+ amps/effects/etc., there's maybe 5 or something missing from helix.


    That's pretty much it, besides price, size of unit, etc.  The sound quality is 100% the same as the big helix.

  11. Quote

    this is not user friendly for live gigs.


    Yeah you shouldn't be editing or saving anything during live gigs imho...  There's 2 features which could be useful; snapshots, allows you to save different states, so you'd be better off having a couple snapshots to deal with whatever you're having to deal with.  Also there's min/max values instead of on/off, so maybe that could give you whatever adjustments you would need to do live...   Or, just go with the 100+ user patches!

  12. I just started to use the Pod Go Edit software and boy does that make a huge difference...  My thought process was better start with just the unit itself, learn how to use it as is, and once I'm fairly familiar with how to use it properly on its own, then move on the to the Pod Go Edit.  But I think that was a mistake as honestly, editing patches with Go Edit is 10x better than directly on the unit...  Just having the list of amps, cabs, etc., with pictures makes a huge difference, especially with amps where there's 100+ different ones and scrolling to find one takes forever!  


    So suggestion for improving POD Go:

    1. Add an interface to show the effects/amps/cabs/etc., with pictures in a grid, for easy selection.  Ex:  If the amp select page was fullscreen and showed say 12 or 18 amps (2 or 3 rows of 6 amps) with the same pictures as Go Edit, and you could scroll through the next/previous 12 or 18 amps using the pages, man, that would be a HUGE plus for usability!  As is, scrolling through 100+ amps or dozens and dozens of cabs, effects, etc., is PITA!
    2. Fullscreen page for setting up amps, effects, etc.  If you could have 2-3 rows of parameters, and the page would select scroll from row to row, that would be a lot better than always showing the top chain, which you're not going to edit if you're editing a distortion, amp, cab, etc.  Seeing more parameters in one page would be a an improvement!
    3. Improve the min/max values...  It's quite a pain to setup...   Maybe simpler system like pressing one of the footswitch while turning the knob would assign min, and pressing the knob would change the color and assign max?  That way, it would be super simple to assign whatever value you wanted to whatever footswitch you wanted.


    But yeah, man, if you're not using Pod Go edit, you're making yourself a huge disfavor!  It's so much faster and more enjoyable than fiddling on the unit itself!  But I think that with better UI, editing on the Go could be a lot more enjoyable!  #2 and #3 above would be nice to have, but the #1 is really essential IMHO to make editing on the unit itself a lot more practical!

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  13. Just a regular PC (parts build), Windows 10, the other was a Dell laptop, also Win10, but I think the updater didn't work on the Dell because I only installed the Line 6 Updater.  I think it requires some of the files from the Pod Go Edit, or maybe the drivers with the  "Fixes a crash that would occur with Logitech's G HUB.".  Anyway, of course it doesn't mention any of those things so it shouldn't... But who knows at this point...


  14. My firmware update failed miserably and I had to spend maybe 1h trying to fix it.  NOT FUN.  (   Hopefully the other thread might help someone going through the same.


    But I guess it goes to show that the reliability of the unit isn't really there.  From random locks and freezes, the unit not powering on, the firmware updates crapping out and temporarily bricking the unit until you download additional software and try the same thing multiple times, I honestly couldn't recommend the unit for any type of gigging, where you can't afford to look like a loser who's gear stops working in the middle of a show.


    I'm hoping that now that it's been updated, it won't crash as often as it did, but I've had it for about a month, used it a couple of hours per day, and I've had maybe 4-5 crashes and 3 booting issues.  Not the end of the world, but I hope the Helix, LT, Stomp, etc., are more reliable because the POD Go sadly doesn't look very reliable...  I hope it won't crap out after a couple of months/years either...  :\


  15. This is infuriating...   I tried on another computer: Installed updater, launched Go in update mode, and it wouldn't even recognized the POD Go.  So much for that solution...


    So I went back to my main PC.  The error message I posted above clearly has 3 steps to follow.  I repeated the steps like 5+ times, same result every time.  FAILED.  Seemed to fail almost instantly every time.  The original update failed, but it took maybe 20s and the status bar moved maybe to 40% something...  But it didn't even seem to get to 10% these last few times...


    I then closed the updater, restarted the Go, started again the L6 Updater, and got this. 






    (So closing the updater is maybe a key step!)


    Good...  But man, Line 6...  Come on...  This is not normal, and I'm certainly not the only person this happened to. 


    Also, there should at least be the relevant links for recoveries in the threads about the new versions, or the downloads...   Otherwise, it's just an additional pain to find the relevant info and fix the issue. 


    That was not fun.  :\


  16. Yeah same thing with updater updating to 1.11...

    Firmware Update Failed
    An error has occurred. Please try again.
    Please follow these steps when updating your Line 6 Product.
    1. Turn the power switch off, then back on.
    2. Ensure the USB cable is connected directly to your computer and not to a hub or peripheral such as a keyboard or mouse.
    3. Click 'Continue' and attempt the update again.

    Guess I'll try from another computer...  This is...  Stressful and quite annoying/disappointing...  :(


    [edit] some info about POD Go recoveries here...


  17. Sigh...  I just tried to update the firmware of my unit and now it's not booting up...  Everything was going fine until it said "Error", turn off the Go power switch, etc., and after turning off the Go power switch, it doesn't boot up anymore...


    • When I power on the unit normally I just get the Pod logo and nothing happens
    • When I connect the USB cable,  nothing happens


    If I boot up the unit in 'update mode' (Page > button),

    • I can hear the Windows USB device connected sound, but nothing happens. 
    • If I launch Pod Go Edit, it says "no device connected".
    • If I replug the USB cable, I get a device connected sound, but nothing happens in POD Go Edit, still "no device connected".
    • I tried a different USB cable, different port, same thing.


    I tried  "start with the POD Go turned off, then flip on the power switch while holding down for 5-8 seconds: - C & D - Factory Restore (Restores all factory settings)", but nothing happens.  Stuck at Pod Go logo.  :\


    What can I do?


    [edit] ok I had found this article and it mentioned the Line 6 updater, it doesn't reference the Pod Go Edit 'updater', it refers to another application, trying that one...  Fingers crossed...


  18. Good post!  A few random thoughts of my own:   I think pro sound engineers or others with actual experience with what is being emulated with the Go will have much easier time.  For instance, I was just creating a patch for the Solo amp Crunch channel, and was playing with cabs, and it's crazy how just the cab settings affects not only the tone (FR) but even distortion characteristics of the amp...  Just changing the microphone distance, or changing the mic type, changes everything, as if you had selected a completely different cabAnd I don't think many people on earth have that type of experience with real equipment.


    I think also the Go is so complex, you could spend months trying to learn everything it has to offer and still not come close...  So I'm thinking about not even trying, just go with an amp, find a cab, reverb, delay, etc., and experiment with it, and don't fret everything else and don't try to learn everything...  In that respect, the Go/Helix is one hell of a special type of beast.  There's so much depth...  To know everything about it you'd probably need multiple PhDs on the Helix/Go...  (one for amp models and settings, one for cab 'science' & mics, then effects, compressors, distortions, etc.)  But luckily, it's still simple to use and anyone could configure their own great sounding patches without too much trouble.


    As for gigging...  I'd be worried.  It crashed many times on me,  refused to power on sometimes, so for now I'd be weary and wouldn't do it without a backup. But I've yet to patch it to the latest firmware, which I'm hoping should help, and I hope it won't brick the unit as there's been quite a few messages about it...!

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  19. 2 hours ago, benthere77 said:

    When I was using the wrong cable I did have my "Main Out" set to Line.  The cable really makes all the difference.  There are a couple of short but informative YouTube videos on the differences between an instrument cable and a balance/shielded cable.  The volume output didn't change drastically, it just got more consistent when changing between presets.  With the old cable the volume seemed all over the place. 


    That's what's really strange, shouldn't make the preset volumes be more or less consistent, and with 10 feet cable the noise difference should be barely perceptible...  Maybe FRFR 108 really doesn't like unbalanced?  Anyway, problem solved is what's important!


    2 hours ago, benthere77 said:

    Just out of curiosity, what kind of speakers do you like for the Pod Go (or whatever device you use)?  Are you referring to studio monitors or just other powered speakers that aren't "frfr"?


    I'm using DIY Seas 2 way bookshelves speakers, but also tried with more budget 2 way Vifa DIY and it also worked perfectly.  I don't think it really matters as long as the speakers are decent, if they do fine with music they'll do fine with Go; music is much more demanding so if you keep SPL reasonable really nothing 'special' required for Go!  (Better speakers = better sound, but diminishing return applies, so I really wouldn't go crazy...)

  20. 35 minutes ago, benthere77 said:

    It was just a 10 foot cable but it turns out there is a huge difference in sound quality and also really a huge difference between an instrument cable and a balanced/shielded cable.  Actually I'm lucky I didn't damage the speaker from what I've read. 


    Also just because that doesn't make much sense to me, if you use that same cable to connect your guitar to the Go, does it change anything to the sound?


    Also what was your Global Settings Main Out setting?  Line or instrument?  I'm now thinking that if you had it to instrument and the was still able to amplify the very low signal, that could have very well have killed your sound quality; I don't think the FRFR is designed for instrument level signals.  And maybe with balanced the Go automatically switch to line level? 


    Did the volume output change much between both cables?  That or a bad cable would be logical explanations of why it sounded so much worse than balanced...  Otherwise; really really surprised going balanced would make such drastic difference!   o.0   But if you had it set to 'instrument' and tried again with 'line', it really should sound the same, just make sure you lower your FRFR volume before switching!  (could be super loud after changing!)

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