Digiplay

Hi Jerry!

 

Please read Page 12 in the Manual.

 

Jerry

I want to a/b the HX Stomp's amps to an ACS1, so I have a few questions:

 

1) Would you go Guitar>HX Stomp>ASC1>Apollo Interface or Guitar>ASC1>Helix>Apollo Interface?

2) How do I bypass the HX Stomp so that when I want to only hear the ACS1, the signal will pass though/bypass the HX Stomp so that I can hear how the ACS1 truly sounds on its own?

 

 

Thanks,

Jerry

Hi to all!

 

Same thing happened to me, even after repeated attempts at powering the Pod Go on while holding down the Page Right button, I kept getting the error message that the update failed.
 

The key, and I repeat THE KEY to updating the Firmware is to exit the Line 6 Updater, reboot it, and once you do that you will see a status bar appear (which did not appear in my previous attempts) as it's loading the new Firmware.

8 hours ago, silverhead said:

That pedal is your 2-switch pedal, as described in the documentation. I don’t know what you mean. It’s not two pedals, it’s two switches. 

I mean it can be a volume pedal or a wah pedal.

 

Just like the pedal on the "lowly" Pod Go :)

Hold the Presses!

 

I just purchased a Mission SP1-L6H Line 6 Expression Pedal, so does this mean I can't add a 2 pedal footswitch?

Thank you!

 

Jerry

Sorry if I asked with the wrong terms rd2rk :)

 

Regardless, you answered my question by stating no, it can't support a 3 switch pedal, only 2.

 

Thanks!

Jerry

My Topic asks it all!

 

This pedal needs to be no wider than the HX Stomp, and only a few inches front to back.

 

BTW, if the HX Stomp will allow more than 3 additional footswitches, I'd like that even better, so let me know of that model :)

20 hours ago, voxman55 said:

My view is that each option has pro's and con's but that no option will meet all your criteria.  For example:

 

• HX Stomp XL only has a small screen & HX FX has no main screen but it has small name tabs by each footswitch.
• You want wah, but neither has a built in expression pedal so you'll need to add an external one and set that up within the device.
• HX Stomp XL will offer more features and a little more processing power, but as you only need simple routing and only up to 4 FX, that could be overkill for you. 
• You want things as simple as possible but if you go HX FX plus Strymon Iridium, you'll also need an external expression pedal - that means setting up and interconnecting 3 units, maybe on a board, with jumper cables etc. You'll also have to manage 2 different power supplies or 3 if you go for a mains powered dedicated wah unit e.g. Weeping Demon, Vox V847 etc.

 

Any solution will always mean some compromises. But based on what you've written, in my view Pod Go would seem to be the best overall fit. It's whole premise is take it & go and its designed for those with simpler needs who want a simpler experience. 

 

Personally I think it's a cracking bit of kit that suits all my main needs and the majority of my secondary needs.  For example Volume to Wah switching. For me, live gigging is key and I wanted a unit that in any patch without programming each patch would globally let me kick in a wah (like you I wanted it simple). With all the other units I've mentioned here, none of them have that feature.  I also liked the idea of snapshots - kind of a patch within a patch with fast changes - that I think is a possibly unique feature to Line 6 (at least its not in any other non L6 unit that I'm aware of).  And I love the Pod Go colour screen - way more than in Helix Floor/LT and that I can add two more external foot-switches to it (or another expression pedal) to give me more onstage options.  It also had to be compact & light with a smaller footprint, that I could put in a bag with leads etc and carry/transport easily, and that I can just literally plug in and 'Go'.  And above all it had to have great amp/fx models (I'm more of an amp than FX guy so like you I don't really need more than 4 FX either - but I've the option to insert an FX or two in the Pod Go FX loop if I really wanted to - never needed to yet though!).  

 

HOWEVER I was sorely tempted by some other MFX options, too! So before making a decision I'd strongly suggest you revisit your wish list with a view to prioritising your needs in a slightly more focused way to help you see the wood from the trees a little more clearly.  So, think about dividing your 8 'needs' up into the following categories to help you really focus on your key needs. Try to focus on eg the top 3 in each of the first 2 categories (4 at most)- & then place them in order in each category:

 

1. Features that are absolutely no compromise and are essential 'must haves'

2. Secondary features that are more desirable 'nice to haves' but are, if push came to shove, less essential 

3. Any features that you could more comfortably live without or are a third priority only

 

Once you have your objectives more clearly in mind it should help lead you to the best solution for your needs and/ or help us to better guide you.  If a unit doesn't meet all of your mandatory features/considerations, be ruthless & dismiss it. And be clear and honest with yourself eg what exactly do you mean by 'as many footswitches as possible' - ie exactly how many do you need and for what purpose. If you are only going to kick an effect in so it's on/off and have no more than 4 FX then do you really need eg 12 footswitches?  And 'in essence as simple as possible'.  What does that mean exactly - simple to use from the unit, simple to use from software, simple to set-up, simple to transport.  And if you have to keep connecting and disconnecting gear with jumper leads etc and coping with multiple power supplies, thats simple to do..but its a nuisance that will quickly wear.

 

But there are some other themes not on your list which I'd suggest you also factor in the above:

 

1. Budget

2. Expression pedal (built in? or external?) - You need an expression pedal for the wah you want

3. Portability/size/weight - more of a consideration if you are taking your gear out, less if its very largely a play at home rig that you might only take out occasionally.

4. Ease of overall rig set up and need for external cables - as per 3 above

5. Are you looking for a  wireless option?  If so, Pod Go Wireless (PGW) would be a great option to consider and is a feature neither HX Stomp XL or HX FX offer. If you needed an independent wireless option you could always buy just a Line 6 G10 receiver for greater flexibility.  For myself PGW wasn't available when I bought my Pod Go, but as I use wireless with other amps/FX/Pedalboards I have a G10 Relay.

6. Footprint (this may be relevant if you have limited floor space - eg I have a small den with built in desk unit, fitted storage unit and plinths to stand by amps on and slide pedalboards under.  Whilst I've made best use of space it means the usable floor area is reduced and I didn't want a big unit like Helix Floor/LT)

 

The above is exactly the process I took myself through when I was considering different products available in the market.

 

I'm also going to be devils advocate here. Putting aside for the moment that this is a line 6 forum and that Line 6 has some great product options, I think it would be remiss of me if I didn't raise the option of your also considering non Line 6 options too, applying the same approach.  For example: 

 

1. A unit with a touch screen might help you move around the unit more easily. Eg some Zoom and Headrush products have this feature. 

2. Some units have a dedicated set of physical rotary amp controls that will let you tweak amp settings more like a real amp and without having to go into menus. For example, the Zoom G11. 

3. Some units are laid out much more like a conventional pedal board with real knobs, for example the Zoom G11, Boss ME80 (be aware, the ME80 does not offer patch naming). 

4. Some units will give you more ability to program foot switches to vary their control functions, eg the Mooer GE300.  This unit also has tone capture...a Kemper like facility that allows users to capture and save tonal characteristics from any guitar, amp, cab or fx. 

5. If you are using the gear at home or in a studio and are using a computer, a good edit software interface like Pod Go Edit can be a real advantage. Some edit programs are better than others.  Is that an important consideration or will you likely just use the unit directly?  (remember though that you'll need to connect up for upgrades). 

6. Blue tooth - some MFX like the Boss GT1000 and Zoom G11 have blue tooth facilities so you can do stuff from your phone. Probably not important for you, but for some it can be essential (the Boss GT1000 isn't likely to be a good fit for you - it's a great unit, very powerful, typical Boss quality/reliability nice clear screen (albeit monochrome) but it's interface can be unintuitive and it's probably way overkill for your needs)

7. Some units will have other USP's - for example, the Zoom G6, G11 and Mooer GE300 provide DSP information to help you see the DSP 'cost' of each selection. The G6 (and I think G11) offer some interesting ways to group patches eg like set lists. Pod Go and HX Stomp XL have snapshots (i'm less up on HXFX so not sure if that applies to it as it doesn't have amp modelling). 

 

Finally, I'd strongly recommend that before making any final selection you read the manual and watch some of the better user videos (manufacturer or third-party) on eg your shortlisted top two that will help you get a better feel of what the unit would be like to live with and physically use.  Remember too that different folk have different product & manufacturer allegiances and some may have vested interests, so take on board feedback/reviews but use your best judgement as to how 'independent' that might be.  Manufacturers are great at telling you what units can do because they want you to buy them. But it's what the unit can't do that you'll need to try & figure out in case it's something essential you need.  For example if a polysynth or polycapod effect is essential to you, you won't get that in Pod Go. 

 

Fundamentally, there is no such thing as the best product/solution...only which is the best product/solution for you. But figuring that out, well, as Shakespeare said " there lieth the rub" ! Lol

 

But you are absolutely doing the right thing to think things through carefully, and I hope my input helps you to do that with a bit more focus/direction so you can lead yourself on the right path to the right set-up for you.

 

voxmann55,

 

Wow, thank you SO much for taking what I know took a lot of time on your part!

 

Before I make ANY decision, I need to keep reading what you stated over and over as many times as needed, as EVERYTHING you mention opens up the thought process I need to follow.

 

Thanks again!

Jerry

Hi silverhead!

 

I probably didn't express my intentions very well :)

 

If I go with the HX Effects, I don't mind buying a Strymon Iridium to go with it, and that will take care of my amp/cab needs.

 

Thanks,

Jerry

I need some input please :)

 

 

Here are my needs:

 

1) Only a few pedals that include a tuner, volume, wah, compressor, distortion/overdrive, chorus, phaser, tremolo, delay, reverb, a few meat and potato amps/cabinets like a Srymon Iridium has (Fender/Vox/Marshall), and the ability to add IR's.

 

2) I would use at the most only (4) fx at the same time.

 

3) I want whichever multi fx board I go with to be the closest thing to an inline pedalboard that has the same above items.

 

4) I want to be able to move around the unit as close/fast as possible to as fast as I can on a conventional pedalboard. In other words, not to have to dive deep into too many button and arrow pushing/turning, too many menus just to change things such as each pedal knob position, to change the controls on an amp, etc.

 

5) I would like as big a screen as possible, laid out intuitively and legibly, with as many knobs as possible that will allow me to navigate around the unit quickly.

 

6) As many foot switches as possible to turn each pedal on and off.

 

7) I don't care about routing here or there, the 4CM, multiple simultaneous amps/cabinets, parallel this or that, just a basic unit that does the above #1.

 

8) This will be 98% for recording/reamping, and bringing the unit to another studio.

 

 

 

So............................................................................................................................................................................

 

 

 

In essence, as simple as possible :)

 

 

 

If I go with a HX Effects, I'll want a pedalboard, a Radial J48 and ProRMP, a Mission Engineering Combination volume/wah pedal, an Iridium, and a power brick to power both units.

 

If I go with a HX Stomp XL, I'll want to mount it to a pedalboard, and I'll want the same Mission Engineering pedal.

 

If I go with a Pod Go, it appears that's all I'll need, but I might be shortchanging myself in other areas I don't know enough to know about :)

 

 

What do you think?

 

 

Thanks,

Jerry

 

 

 

Hi everyone, Happy New Year!

 

What is that wooden looking case shown on this YouTube video (starting at around 0:17 seconds)

 

 

Thanks voxman55!

Pod Go/Pod Go Wireless Factory Presets Firmware 1.30.0

 

01A   US Deluxe Nrm

01B   AC30 Fawn Brt

01C   Brit Plexi Brt

01D   Cali Rectifire

 

02A   US Double Arm

02B   Essex A30

02C   Cartographer

02D   Revv Gen Red

 

03A   Archetype JS

03B   Divided Duo

03C   Brit J45 Brit

04D   Archetype Lead

 

04A   Matchstick Ch1

04B   Matchstick Ch2

04C   Matchstick Jump

04D   PV Panama

 

05A   Placater Clean

05B   A30 Fawn Nrm

05C   Line 6 Litigator

05D   Placater Dirty

 

06A   Jazz Rivet 120

06B   Fullerton Nrm

06C   Brit 2204

06D   Voltage Queen

 

07A   Cali IV Rhythm 1

07B   Essex A15

07C   Cali IV Rhythm 2

07D   Cali IV Lead

 

08A   WhoWatt 100

08B   Tweed Blues Nrm

08C   Interstate ZedJS

08D   German Ubersonic

 

09A   Cali Texas Ch1

09B   Derailed Ingrid

09C   Cali Texas Ch2

09D   Line 6 Factory

 

10A   Mail Order Twin

10B   Tweed Blues Brt

10C   Mandarin 80

10D   Line 6 Elektrik

 

11A   Solo Lead Clean

11B   Grammatico Brt

11C   Solo Lead Crunch

11D   Solo Lead OD

 

12A   BAS:Agua 51

12B   BAS:Ampeg B-15

12C   BAS:SVT Nrm

12D   BAS:SVT Brt

 

13A   BAS:Cougar 800

13B   BAS:Cali Bass

13C   BAS:Woody Blue

13D   BAS:Cali400 Ch1

 

14A   CrushDestroy

14B   Guns N Sons BBF

14C   Chris Buck

14D   TheWorldisMad DK

 

15A   FLUFF’D UNDER

15B   New Romantic

15C   Super Crank JKS

15D   CHAOSBREAKER

 

16A   VURNTWAHBbLE

16B   Crossroads JS

16C   Deaf Leopard JS

16D   Fullerton Brt JS

 

17A   Gene’sTrickBagJS

17B   Vasoline JS

17C   Mayer’ish JS

17D   Robben’ish JS

 

18A   Watt Angel PH

18B   Dental Plac PH

18C   Full Pan PH

18D   Open Chordus PH

 

19A   Supr9 Groove PH

19B   DLX Seven PH

19C   British Bug PH

19D   Bambi Fuzz PH

 

20A   Uber Widedrop PH

20B   Vicars War PH

20C   Trademark

20D   Streets w/o Name

 

21A   A Quid For Nutin’

21B   Another Thing

21C   Run

21D   Cold Shot

 

22A   Boulevard

22B   Troopah

22C   Shining Star

22D   Fish w/ Teeth

 

23A   Straightedge

23B   Ridin’ Lightning

23C   Every Breath

23D   Message Botella

 

24A   Go This Way

24B   Guy In a Box

24C   Come as U Were

24D   Bloody Sunday

 

25A   Tie Yo Mama

25B   Monkey Wrench

25C   Bit Like Heaven

25D   Waterlung

 

26A   Lights

26B   Cowboys

26C   Sultans

26D   Right Next Door

 

27A   Lights

27B   Manic D

27C   Nothing Clean

27D   Breaker o’Hearts

 

28A   Real Thing

28B   Dreamy Lead

28C   Funky Meercat

28D   Next County Over

 

29A   Rockadilly

29B   Filter Native

29C   Hull Breach

29D   Trem Moods

 

30A   Infinite Space

30B   Outpost Theta

30C   Wave Rider

30D   New Preset

 

31A   New Preset

31B   New Preset

31C   New Preset

31D   New Preset

 

31A   New Preset

31B   New Preset

31C   New Preset

31D   New Preset

 

32A   New Preset

32B   New Preset

32C   New Preset

32D   New Preset

My Title says it all :)

As per Strymon:

 

"Strymon’s Iridium is an amp and cab modeler with added room reverb, designed to deliver the sound of an amp through a cab in a room.

 

What it provides is three modeled amps with drive and three-band EQ controls, each amp having a choice of three Impulse Response cabinets to be paired with, followed by (optional) room reverb. If you want different cabs, you can replace those onboard with your own using Strymon’s Impulse Manager software."

 

 

The main reason I purchased the Pod Go was to replace the following pedals I had on my pedalboard, all before the Iridium:

Tuner>Compressor>OD>Chorus>Rotary>Tremolo>Phaser>Delay>Reverb

 

 

As far as using the Pod Go as an interface, the Apollo has xlr inputs, as well as many world class plugins, and if I use the Pod Go, all my recordings will lose those fx.

Hi silverhead!

 

Three replies:

1) It took YOU to finally answer the question, and the truth is ALWAYS best, wouldn't you say? :)

2) I'll be glad to make a Preset List.

3) As you seem to get to the point VERY quickly (that's GOOD, btw!), will you answer my Thread about integrating my Iridium with the Pod Go?

 

Please :) :) :) :) :)

Hi Rick!

 

Why does it happen too many times that when a member asks a direct question, the replies go off-topic? :) :) :)

 

 

You have had (9) replies so far, and no answer has been given to your, IMHO, simple, straight forward question :) :) :)

 

 

I would like a list of Factory Presets as well!

I keep searching for the answer to my Topic question, but none of the answers apply to what I'm trying to accomplish, and please don't say I shouldn't have purchased the Pod Go, as it's laid out in a way that to my mind looks like/acts like a fantastic digital pedalboard :)

 

 

My rig is a Pedalboard (without my original pedals, which I have replaced with the Pod Go) that now has the Iridium last in the chain, and from there I go directly into my Apollo Interface, so obviously I'm using the Pod Go for recording, not gigging (yet :) ).

 

 

So what I'd like to do is simply (uh oh :) ) bypass the amp and cabinet on the Pod Go, and I want to use the Iridium's (3) amps and cabinets instead.

 

I don't know whether to:

1) Go out the Mono Main Out and disable the amp and cabinet on each preset.

2) Go out the Amp Out and disable the amp and cabinet on each preset.

3) Start with a blank/new Preset.

 

As I'm just wetting my feet on the Pod Go, for right now I would prefer to take the Factory Presets, not use their amp and cabinet, and use the Iridium instead.

 

 

Thanks in advance!

Jerry

So do I simply disable the amp and cabinet on each preset of the Pod Go, and go directly to the input on the Iridium from the amp out on the Pod Go?

Hello to all!

 

 

I have a Pedaltrain Classic 2 Pedalboard/Recording Rig (powered by a Truetone CS-12) consisting of, and in order:

 

Radial J48>TC Polytune>Dunlop Cry Baby> Keeley Compressor Plus>Tumnus Deluxe>MXR Phase 90>Source Audio Gemini>Fender MTG Tremolo>SD Vapor Trail>EXH Oceans 11>TC Sentry>Strymon Iridium>UAD Apollo.

 

Please note that the JV48 is also sending a dry signal to my Apollo as well.

 

 

Without a doubt it's a fine pedalboard, but I saw so many great videos of the Pod Go that I told myself "Hell, that's all I would EVER need!!", so I ordered one today.

 

 

FWIW, something about it reminded me of my pedalboard :)

 

 

The (6) switches that correspond to the pedals shown in the large display made sense to me, the (5) knobs below the display reminded me of the knobs on my pedals that edit the various parameters, it seems easy to navigate and edit, it has a switchable expression/wah pedal, it just seems like a GREAT device!

 

 

I'm betting that I will LOVE the Pod Go, and if so, I will sell all the components of the pedalboard, and I'll have about $1,200 back in my pocket as soon as they all sell.

 

 

So my question is if the Pod Go Amps and Cabinets are as "good" as the Iridium's (3) Amps and (3) Cabinets?

 

 

If so, bye bye Iridium, and if not, "Say hello to my little friend!" :)

 

 

Thanks in advance,

Jerry

I'm not trying to make it more difficult caledoneus :)

 

My UAD interface has a 1/4" line input on the front (which I use for guitar), and I'm using one of the rear XLR inputs for my Mic, and another XLR input for my keyboard.

 

I also have an Optical interface (used for drums/bass/etc.) connected to the Optical In on the interface, and this setup works great because multiple musicians can be recorded at the same time.

 

I have NO doubt that the Helix is a GREAT interface, but the UAD has many essential great plugins that I rely on, whereas the Helix doesn't, and it seems more trouble to me to disconnect:

1) My studio monitors.

2) My mic.

3) My keyboard.

4) My Optical interface.

 

And...............................................................................................................

 

then hook up the Helix to my studio monitors so the guitar can be heard while recording, but no one else can be recorded at the same time, and after the guitar track is recorded, I would then have to unhook everything from the Helix, and reconnect all inputs/outputs back to the UAD like before.

 

That being said...........................................................................................

 

I am an old dog who can be taught new tricks, so I'm open to any suggestions/discussion :)

 

Thanks,

Jerry

3 hours ago, MGW-Alberta said:

One way that seems pretty obvious to me that does not require making changes at all to your patches or settings would be to employ an A/B/Y box between your guitar and Helix.

 

This is the A/B/Y box I have and it works flawlessly for me:

 

https://www.radialeng.com/product/twin-city

That's a good idea, but I already have a Radial ProDI, and the way I used it with my formerly owned GT-1000 was to send the thru output to the GT-1000, and the main output to the Apollo.

 

One of the reasons I decided to go with the Helix (besides the obvious reasons) was because I thought it would be easy to send a dry signal out one of its separate outs, and as such, I would not need the ProDI anymore :)

Hello everyone!

 

I've researched my question, but I have never seen it asked the way I will ask it :)

 

I want to send the wet/full f/fx signal out one 1/4" outputs on my Helix, while at the same time sending a fully dry signal out another 1/4" output.

 

I want to do it this way because I will send both outputs to my UAD Apollo Twin Duo, and then I will arm two tracks within LPX to record the original wet sound on the first track, and the fully dry sound on the second track.

 

 

Once recorded, I will send the dry track out from one of my outputs on the UAD, using a 1/4" cable, back into the input on the Helix.

 

From that point I will try out different sounds on the Helix, and once I find one I like, I will record that sound to a new third track on LPX.

 

 

For those who might ask why I want to do it this way, the answer is:

1) It makes more sense to me :)

2) I don't want to use the Helix as my interface.

 

 

Thanks in advance!

Jerry