toneman2121

:P :P :P :P :P :P :P

my brother works in a lumber mill and i'm sure he mentioned to me that quartersawn is the best cut to use to avoid warping and shrinking

i think the battery is for storage but it may affect output

new version by the end of the week B)

try a new battery

just through the cans? try different cans

bean

so your going to sell a defective piece of equipment. i hope you'll inform the buyer of the defect

roll back the update and see if it happens again

so you get a pop when energizing. i would think the output section is working. is there any noise at all after you turn it on? but with no test equipment and no schematics how can you troubleshoot? i would inject a signal at the input and follow the signal path until it stops but for that you need a sig gen and a spectrum analyzer. otherwise i'm stumped.

beautiful. although i believe i could copy that, i would never have patience enough

is there no access to the nut?

if that's you in the picture, THANK YOU

apples and oranges

http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/computer-based-recording/computer-audio-set-up-and-troubleshooting-/guitarport-online-complete-troubleshooting-guid-r368 does this help any?

Flash Memory Version 1.70 Released 11/17/10 Works with: James Tyler Variax This is the first release version of firmware for Tyler Variax. OS: Windows XP, Mac OS X, Windows Vista, Windows 7 ( 128.84 KB ) Get Download

eagles logo

my requirements are: budget 200-300, doesn't have to store a lot, max loop time 3-5 min, one or two overdubs, midi? what's that :huh: i was looking at the boss with the two pedals, used on ebay and the looper from boss with 1 pedal. if i can get by, considering my requirements, should i get the cheaper model or get the more expensive and have more options as i get familiar with the looper operation? oh yeah, new or used?

it will be appreciated. thank you.

yikes is right! i was just inquiring about differences between u.s. and korean models. apparently the quality of materials is better but the design is lacking. i hope the fret work is up to snuff on the u.s. model. for 2x the cost it better be. so, is there a way that the user can fix the broken-string-end-in-the-electronics-cavity problem? i suppose spraying the board with electrical lacquer would prevent shorting, if not already coated.

i've played both versions of the strat and i like the way the mexican plays but there's something about the u.s. strat that i prefer. the feel is different. more solid in my hands. i guess as you say the wood and the little details make it more desirable. so i know what you're talking about. but what about the electronics. are they better? and i suppose that they have the same software issues no matter how much better there built. i'm more concerned about the way they play and feel. so when and if the time comes i'll be looking at the u.s. made. thanks for the input. pretty much confirmed my thoughts. good analogy with the strat.

has anyone compared the u.s model, which is over 2x more, to the non u.s. model? :mellow:

mine only comes on when the train's crossing

i'm keeping a look out but i don't hold much hope for an update, :( i'm sad to say. i think if there is one, it's gonna be a biggie. :rolleyes:

all i got to say is, "lemme play a beat for ya".