vcuomo

Wich one is compatible with the fbv3 ?

Both the Line 6 EX-1 and the Mission Engineering EP1-L6 should be compatible with the FBV3.

... Now I don't know if I want the Charvel and Helix or a Les Paul and the Burman or maybe I just want everything :-)

 

Craig 

Pffftttt... this is easy to answer: What you want is a KPA so that you can profile the Burman and then put it safely away and not have to power it up any time soon...

And, of course, you should keep your Helix. So, yeah, you want everything.

:) (Sorry, had to toss in this hand grenade...) 

... I thinking that maybe said starting point was to create a new/improved version of the previous Line 6 "miracle system" (or whatever it was called) which was the HD500, Variax guitar, and a Stagesource speaker. ...

The "Dream Rig", which was: HD500, Variax, and DT50 or DT25.

 

Not kidding. This is the solution.

I prefer this:

:)

This post over on TGP shows a really nice solution using a Pelican 1555 case: https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/line6-helix.1586637/page-1924#post-24157763

Nice! 

FWIW I have the same issue with my Helix Floor and JTV-69 (with v2.21 firmware).

Will be watching this thread with interest...  :)

 

...Except for the cupholder-in-the-amp idea. Yeah, we're not going to do that.

 

I remember that you guys promised that feature way back when you were still selling Vettas! And it's trivial, you should be able to implement it by Winter NAMM!!!

I'll never purchase another L6 product unless I get my cupholder-in... wait... Huh? Nevermind...

:P

I can only think of two reasons to buy an HD500X over the HD500, or to "upgrade" to the HD500X: (1) if you really need the 20% extra DSP (and it's debatable how much more flexibility in designing patches there is with just 20% more DSP power); and (2) you're one of those people who always get the "latest and greatest".

As far as the better footswitches and the higher contrast display go, I've gigged with my HD500 plenty and have had no issues whatsoever in those areas.

If you don't need that huge 20% extra DSP, save your money for the HD1000... ;)

I've never heard a thump when changing patches, but I've heard noises when scrolling through different amps on the HD500.

That's what my DT25 does. Although I don't get a lot of hissing (but I'm also using an HD500 via L6 Link).

1. What worked best for me before I bought a DT25 and started using the L6 Link was to use the HD500's right/mono (or left/mono) output straight into the effects return on the amp.  Many people here have also had great results from going straight into the sound board, but it seems that your sound guy doesn't know how to EQ your tone the way you want it (the only solution there is to force him to dial back the mids and highs to where YOU want them to be, not where HE wants them to be).

2. No, don't use the headphone outs - use the HD500's left/right output jacks, that's what they're for. Although, frankly, I've found that stereo output usually doesn't work all that well in live situations; after all, you want the audience on the left side of the venue to hear the same mix as the audience on the right side (and middle).  IMO, I'd just use mono output.  But if you're going to be recorded, you can use the XLR left/right outputs to the recording board.

3. If the HD500 is going directly into the amp's guitar input, set the line/amp switch to amp.  If it's going directly into the effects return (or, on some amps, the Power Amp In jack) set the switch to line.  And, of course, you can always experiment and set it to whatever you think sounds best.

4. You can use the recommendations in the HD500's manual (see below) as a starting point, but many people end up setting it differently from the "recommended" setting. If the HD500 output is going into the power amp or effects return of a combo or head amp, then you'd probably use Combo Power Amp or Stack Power Amp as the output mode (and set the line/amp switch to line).  But there are no set rules - set it to whatever sounds best to you.

- Studio/Direct: Typically the best option when connecting "Direct" to a mixing console or recording device. This signal includes "Studio" Cab Models, Mic Model and an "AIR" convolution to best emulate a mic’ed amp within a room.

- Combo and Stack settings: Optimizes your tone for connecting to an external amplifier. The signal includes "Live" Cab Models,with no Mic Model or "AIR" convolution, with a special EQ curve added for each.

- Combo Front & Stack Front: For connecting into the front input of a typical combo amp or amp head + external cab, respectively.

But, seriously, take a look at the Line 6 documentation - it will make things a lot easier for you.

Good luck with the gig!

The answer to the OP's question is no, you can't "easily" do what you're asking to do.

But, there is a way that I think should work (for most amp configurations, anyway). Find an already-modeled amp on the HD that has the same physical configuration you're looking for, then use the HD and/or DT to adjust the other amp parameters to your liking. I think (I've never tried it) you can also change the other amp parameters (class, pentode/triode, etc.) on the DT and then hit the Save button (twice) on the HD and then recall it whenever you want. Not perfect, but it should work.

You guys are missing the OP's point. He has an HD-x00 POD and doesn't want to have to bend or kneel down when he's on stage to make and save adjustments while he's playing or in-between songs.

OP: I gig/play-out too and like your suggestion. Turn around, make a quick tone change on the DT and hit Save on the DT - perfect when you're on stage.