jerseyboy

I could've wrote this...

Stereo's ideal IMO. At least ALL the reverbs become more useable and if looking for truly deep chorus, ping-pong delays or mind altering wobbly tremolo, stereo FTW. It's one of those things while editing presets I pay attention to. As mentioned, I'll make duplicate "stomp" (no amp modeling) presets for use with guitar amps as well as "mono effects" presets for mono FRFR situations. And of course, the "Cadillac setup" of stereo presets for those Gucci gigs with stereo inputs to FOH/MON. Basically 3 versions of presets covers majority of output situations that come my way.

I prefer FRFR for majority of my use although I do tend to edit a bank of patches with all the same and familiar stomp pedals but no amp/cab modeling for those situations when I arrive on a gig and there's guitar amp backline. Majority of FRFR "amps" reproduce most of what is heard through headphones. However, the main drawback using any "single channel" mono FRFR system is that the reverbs in Helix will never sound exactly as intended. The Spring isn't too bad mono but all the Helix reverbs being stereo kinda leaves something to be desired, IMO...

I would suggest Line6 consider similar modification to future versions? I too find it difficult to reach back row buttons and capacitance feature on my LT being inadvertently activated is another annoyance for my use. I often use capacitance feature for assigning buttons to functions but I would prefer to touch something on the side of the button (metal ring, screws) to activate the feature rather than the top of the button which I tend to inadvertently brush up against?

Is it just my unit or do other users notice the pedal friction adjustment to be very stiff out of the box? Mine was so tight/stiff I was afraid something might break down inside? I loosened it up a bit and everything seems to be smooth and functioning well. Curious if others have received HLT’s with seemingly tight pedal friction tension? ty ty

Hmm? G&L MFD and Z Coil pups might be kinda fun to model? Depends on the guitar body and winding counts sometimes changed through the years but G&L (Leo Fender) probably deserve some place in Variax capabilities?

Obviously, you're unaware of "counterfeit" 18650 Li-ion cells. Chinese print all sorts of specs on dangerously cheap battery cells and pawn them off to the vaping and flashlight crowd. I've opened so called 3200mAh cells only to find a baby 200mAh pouch cell soldered inside along with sand to mimic the weight of a legitimate Panasonic/Sanyo GA 18650 cell. There is NO 8800mAh 18650 Li-ion cell anywhere in the world. It's a total lie and fabrication. Some of the highest energy density 18650 cells reach about 3500mAh. Since the JTV uses 2qty cells wired in series the mAh capacity will not double. It will simply be whatever the single cell happens to be. In most cases JTV uses 2200mAh cells - my guess is LG or maybe Samsung? I haven't dug into one yet. 2200mAh (8Wh) cell wired in series (2S) remains 2200mAh but 16Wh total capacity. The Wh (Watt Hours) will go up in series strings but not the Ah (Amp hour)

I moonlight as a battery and power systems engineer for EV’s and I can tell you that the most important thing is to not leave the cells sitting at full SOC (state of charge) for more than a few days at a time. Full SOC 4.2V/cell of the common 18650 cell used in majority of consumer battery packs is very damaging for the long term. But there’s nothing wrong with full charge and using these cells in a short period of time. As long as you drain some charge from full SOC you’ll reap a significant improvement in longevity and reducing cell degradation. In practical terms, if you can find 50-60% SOC go right ahead. But merely reducing SOC to between 80-90% from 100% makes much more difference for example than 80% down to 50% SOC. I’m describing not being used after full charge for more than a few days, week or longer. If you ever full charge and realize you won’t use the Variax, merely “go play your guitar†for 1/2 hour and your pack will love you for it….

At the right price point I'd buy one.

Not HD, only original (legacy) Workbench can be used with 300, 500, 600, 700 Variax.

Ok...

2S (2qty cells wired in series) JTV battery pack discharge voltage curve is in the neighborhood of 8.4V-6V. Legacy 500 6qty Akaline sled can begin around 9.9V and in my testing and experience with Vax 500 reaches LVC (low voltage cutoff) somewhere around 7V. While it’s possible to operate 500 on 2S 18650 lithium ion/poly battery pack it will likely cut-off somewhere short of the full available capacity of 2S lithium ion/poly pack. But as long as proper VDC polarity's observed there's not much risk of harm running legacy Variax on 2S lithium pack. It's just that it probably won't be able to use all the capacity of the 2S lithium pack.

Can you elaborate a bit more please? I discovered the rotary tuning switch loose and intermittent on "new to me" 59. Fairly obvious the switch nut was merely loose and after lifting the small PCB off the switch assembly tightened the shaft nut using a socket. Working fine with no issues, subtle or otherwise, that I can tell. The similar "model selector" rotary switch seemed to be tight so I left it alone. Can you tell us if there's been a component revision or something else that should be done? Serial number indicates 2013 JTV59....

Yes it does and that's why we keep a small chunk of Scotch Brite in the case or gig bag.

Found some Ultra Fine Scotch Brite...

I'm not a high-gain player so my POV and application will surely be very different. Probably not the issue but at this point a different Vax may be the only sensible thing left to try?

Solid average, freaky hot, crazy, sensible, etc. At this point in life I won't kick any of 'em out of bed... JTV 59 mag pups sound pretty darn good and can see preferring them over similar models. But much like HWBP (hard wire bypass) pedals, in the heat of battle (stage mix) it can be very difficult to hear much practical difference between a transistor or copper signal path. Sure, A/B in studio environment most of us can "hear" it. But I always come back to "practical differences" and it becomes a very minor thing in the overall scheme of my work environment. Since we're off into the really weird stuff - stories of a young Elvis visiting numerous young ladies in hotel rooms following shows. At times going door to door for an entire hotel floor. One of his buddies finally asked how he could handle so many women in one night? His reply: "they're all different"

Sorry, 'didn't realize this was your thread. I was reading more recent posts made in other topics and here with no mention of model. Personally, I would provide the model in every post regarding this problem so there's no confusion what model you need help. Good luck getting it sorted out...

I'm running legacy WB on Yosemite but it needs some runtime "environment stuff" and never shuts down correctly. Always must force quit but it will save everything so no real harm.

3 posts about this issue yet no indication what model JTV you're working with? This is important particularly for switching issues. Personally, I'd try re-flashing firmware again... Sometimes they glitch and re-flash can solve some issues.

What guitar do you have? This thread is for JTV59 the other thread you posted the same quote is for JTV69. They use somewhat different switching schemes for the (2-4) model selections. JTV59 tuning switch (toggles 2-4 positions) uses a push-push switch. Mine became intermittent due to the switch shaft assembly loosening and merely needed to be lifted out of the body cavity and get to the shaft nut. Once re-tightened the function works perfectly again. I dunno the JTV69 personally but check for any switches that appear to exhibit excessive play. If you find play, dig further find out why and correct it.

Oops, I see it's actually called Scotch Brite. I go back/forth between red (coarse) and green (not so coarse) - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotch-Brite-Extreme-Scrub-Scour-Pad-2-Pack-77222/205910382 They also sell varieties in the plumbing dept for cleaning/soldering copper pipe. Just a small 2-3" chunk will be all you need. In a pinch coarse steel wool will work too but best keep that away from mag pups. EDIT - no uploading photos just links, right?

Naw, it is black but 'don't care about looks. I never liked the feel of thick glossy finished necks. Small amount of moisture my hand sticks to glossy finish moving around the neck. Small chunk of Scotch pad is what pool players use to "satin" glossy cue sticks. I've done it to every guitar with a glossy finish neck for as long as I can remember. I did it so much on an old black Dot inlay 335, it was down to bare wood. Oh man, it feels nice! Warm and woody... JTV-59 uses a particularly thick and glossy neck finish but it's a very nice shaped neck for my hands. 'Don't go anywhere near the piezos, just the backside of the neck. Quick rub with the Scotch pad, ready to rock!

Got hold of 2013 vintage JVT-59 (Asian) and I'm very impressed. Build quality seems excellent - very fine axe and holds tuning well. The neck isn't as FAT as I feared either. It's quite comfortable in fact after I knocked the thick gloss finish off with some Scotch Pad abrasive. I can barely imagine how much better USA build might be? Note to self "keep an eye out for one of those...." This specimen suffered from a loose tuner selector switch and was behaving poorly in that department but once I pulled it out and re-tightened the shaft nut it's now working perfectly. Very nice body cavities and good electronic components. Artistically routed wiring, clean, clean clean... Oh, the stock PUPs sound nice! I'm a little late to the JTV-59 party but nice job L6!

In a perfect world sure bring on the RF... $1000? It better work FLAWLESSLY in RF dense environments.