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a2dconverterguy

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Posts posted by a2dconverterguy

  1. On 6/27/2018 at 11:58 PM, rsan said:

    Hey Joe!!!

    huge thanks for this. I’m not a really tech savvy (basic skills in electronic and soldering only) so could you send a photo showing the small box you mentioned with the wiring/jacks/FET so I can do it as well?  

     

    I’m unsure of how to wire (cause my understanding of electronic layouts it’s almost zero) ... hahaha 

     

    I really need to control 3 different channels of my amp and this will be just the perfect solution! 

     

    Thank you so much man!

     

    Hi rsan, 

     

    I haven't built one of these... I just re-drew Doughadfield's design as a courtesy to show how it could be mounted into a small plastic box...

     

    I suggest getting someone in your area who is proficient in electronics to build you one... (the below schematic is much clearer than any pix of an actual wired box could be.)

     

    [1] 1/4" stereo jack, [1] 1/4" mono jack, [1] 2N7000 Transistor and [1] SPDT switch and some hook-up wire. The wiring is soldered to the components to match the schematic and mounted in a small plastic box.

     

    cv_switch.jpg

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    seeya

     

    Joe

     

    P.S. As mentioned before... if you are having hum from ground-loop problems... the above will not help. you will need to isolate using relays and an external power source as follows...

     

    mk525_switch_3.jpg

     

    • Like 1
  2. Hi malcevansmusic

    The G10 operates on RF2... if one Line 6 TX is using RF2 all other Line6 devices must operate on RF2

    There are some tech-notes on Line6 support to tell you how to change all of your TX to RF2

    RF1_vs_RF2.jpg

    If you have older Firmware, that can only run RF1, you may have to do Firmware updates on the Transmitters and receivers to be able to Transmit on RF2... I've done this on my G30 RX, G50 RX and three G30 TX's

    The update is done through Line 6 Monkey Updater... info below courtesy of member Andreas_flf

    http://line6.com/support/topic/395-how-to-really-update-the-firmware-of-a-relay-g30-6-channel-receiver-rxs06/

     

     

    I was thinking one could pair the first G10T, find the same channel on the G30, then turn of the base.

     

    Repeat for the G50 in hopes that it "sees" that the first channel is in use , and picks another to pair the second G10t. Hopefully it is between channel 1 and 12 so the G50 can find it...

     

     

    Hi Erik, 

    I've done that.... I have [3] G30 Transmitters that I used to help lock in a lower channel with the G10T Transmitter..

    (NOTE: You will need a G10 Receiver to be able to change the channel on the G10T)

    The secret is to have the other transmitters operating at channels that you do not want to use...

     

    1. I turned on all [3] G30 Transmitters tuned to Transmit on Channels 4, 5, and 6

    2. I inserted the first G10T into the G10 Receiver Base and it locked to Channel 1 which I used with my G30 Receiver on Channel 1

    3. I plugged the first G10T into a guitar so that it would continue to transmit on Channel 1

    4. I inserted the second G10T into the G10 Receiver Base and it locked to Channel 3 which I used with my G50 Receiver on Channel 3

     

    If you have a G50 Transmitter, you can transmit and block out channels above Channel 6 that the G30 Transmitter can't do.

    Also, it helps to turn off WiFi in your phone and laptop and turn off your WiFi router... since there will be less 2.4 GHz interference the G10 Receiver will pick lower channels.

    I hope this helps!

    seeya

    Joe

    • Upvote 1
  3. Hey Tal, 

    It looks like there is a counter that adds up the time that you hit 0% while playing the wah... When the time that you hit 0% in multiple instances exceeds the Wait time, the Wah is Bypassed momentarily.

     

    (i.e. lets say your wait time is 1000mS and, during your wah-ing, you momentarily hit 0% four times for 250mS... on the last time you hit 0% the Wah will bypass momentarily)

     

    It should work like this: The counter should reset to zero every time you do not remain at 0% for the bypass Wait time.

    Hopefully Line 6 will identify this and correct it in the next FW update. @Digital_Igloo

    Seeya

    Joe

    • Upvote 1
  4. Hi Joe - I just got a g10t transmitter, and it doesn't want to work with my g30 or my pals g50... Scrolled through all the different channels to no avail. I bought it used but looks new. Charged it up with separate charging cable, seems fully charged (green indicator light)

    Wonder if there is a calibration or reset that still needs to be done? Thanks for the help!

    Hello Erik, 

    Either you have: 

    1.  a bad G10T or

    2.  the G10T has selected a channel above Channel 12 on the G50 or above Channel 6 on the G30

    Do you have access to the G10 Base to verify that it works? (You may have to sync with a G10 Base.)

    I have [2] G10T's and they work Flawlessly with my G30/ G50 on channel 1 and 2 respectively and also work with my G10 base as well...

    I hope that you find a solution

    seeya

    Joe

  5. Hello F.G.

     

    You can connect to your Marshall power Amp to the HELIX EXT AMP Switch with no worry of damage... (Short-to-Sleeve is the same as Short-to-Ground)

     

    The switch will most likely work, but, there is a risk of a ground loop which would impart a hum in your audio. (You may have to add an Isolation transformer between the Helix Audio OUTs and the Power amp INs to get rid of the hum.) Also, do not place an isolation transformer on the HELIX EXT AMP SW.... the switching won't work :)

     

    I hope this helps

     

    Seeya

     

    Joe

  6. Hey Gabsbiz...

     

    That post was From December 2015 :D ... way before snapshots and auto-engage/ bypass..

     

    I will backtrack for you as a courtesy...

     

    My original intent was to use an old wah pedal, modified to be an expression pedal with a 10k POT and an internal momentary switch, to be EXP 2 and control the wah while allowing 'ext bypass' like the HELIX Rack unit...

     

    Although the Helix Floor has the switch under the pedal for EXP1/EXP2... it doesn't have an external Jack for the "Exp Pedal Toe Switch" like the HELIX Rack...

     

    This would have meant that I would have had to modify the HELIX with an additional jack and wired to parallel the Internal toe-switch like this...

     

    toesw.jpg

     

    Not wanting to modify my HELIX, and hoping that auto engage/ bypass might be in a future update, I waited it out and now I use a Spring-loaded Expression Pedal with auto-engage to bypass the wah.... A way better solution without any Helix mods required!! 

     

    (Auto-engage also allows me to automatically turn on a delay and a Gain and Volume boost at the same the Pedal is moved past 5%.)

     

    pedal.jpg

     

    I hope this helps

     

    Seeya

     

    Joe

     

     

  7. Howdy Folks, 

     

    I just received my two Transmitter holders from Mathias... I'm in Canada and they came in a week!!!

     

    They fit like a glove and the plastic is very nice and strong... The Transmitter will not slip out of the holder.

     

    A small piece of 3M double-sided tape and I can ensure that my transmitters stay put on my pedalboard...

     

    Here it on my Helix... holds two transmitters back-to-back!!

     

    holder3.jpg

     

    holder1.jpg

     

    I use the Relay G10 Transmitters with a Relay G50 receiver mounted on my Pedal-board.

     

    seeya

     

    Joe

  8. Hey Gents, here's another solution for anyone else having problems with the HELIX/ WORKBENCH driver...

     

    It's possible that when you plugged your Helix into the computers USB port, Windows pulled the driver from the Windows update site instead of the newly installed 1.85 driver.

     

    To delete the Windows driver, and ensure that the 1.85 driver is used, use the following procedure...(you may already know this)

    1. While your Helix is connected to your computer open your Device Manager from Control Panel
    2. In the Control Panel, under Sound, Video and Game controllers find Line 6 Helix, right click with your mouse and select Uninstall.
    3. When the Confirmation window appears, Check the "Delete the driver software for this device" checkbox and press OK to Confirm Device Uninstall
    4. After pressing OK disconnect the USB cable between the Computer and the the HELIX.
    5. Reinstall the 1.85 driver by downloading the Line6Driver2Helixv1.85Installer.exe from Line 6 Support website
    6. Once the drivers have been installed, re-connect the USB cable between the Computer and the the HELIX.
    7. You will see a Driver Software Notification Icon in the notification center that Helix drivers are being installed, click the Icon and click the Skip obtaining driver software from Windows Update link and Confirm that this is what you want to do by pressing Yes
    8. Then Windows Software installation will find the 1.85 driver and everything should work by indicating that HELIX is Ready to use!

    I hope this helps

     

    seeya

     

    Joe

  9. Joe -

    Thanks for the information on the modification.

    This improves the usage of the G10 BIG TIME for me.  I moved the G10 to my pedalboard and power it from a power supply...works great.

     

    I also agree with a poster who stated that this is delicate soldering work, however I did manage to do it even with my $7 Radio Shack soldering iron. (I did melt the casing a bit)

    The only deviation I made was the following; I didn't want to unsolder the USB connector from the power converter board so I used a USB cable from a TC Electronic Toneprint pedal (I have multiple so I could definately hack one of them)

     

    Here some pics;

    attachicon.gifIMG_1287 (1).JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1289 (1).JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1310 (1).JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1311 (1).JPGattachicon.gifIMG_1312 (1).JPG

     

    I already toasted a few beers to you in my garage after the successful repair and improvement.

     

    Cheers

    Tom

     

     

    Nice Work...Cheers! beer.gif

     

    seeya

     

    Joe

  10. I put Graphtech saddles on my Variax 500 many years ago.  Sounded much better!  Maybe I will put a sit in my JTV now.  Which ones did you order?

    Hello CW

    The part number is not on The GraphTech website... you will have to call to order them..

    Here is the part number Quantity [6] BN-8002-R0

    Please note that this mod is not for the faint of heart... I work on guitars and amps all day  :)

    I hope this helps

    seeya

    Joe

  11. Shows a 2011 guitar, so warranty is not an issue. But for those who want to do mods during your warranty

    period, be aware that any mods that affect the function of the guitar, will void the warranty. So be aware of that.

    Hi PS... You are correct my guitar is long out-of-warranty

     

    Nonetheless, that's a good warning about modding guitars that are still in-warranty... (and, unless you have experience, doing things out-of-warranty are not recommended either)   :)

  12. Hey FC, 

    I ordered the Graphtech Piezo Saddles over a year ago and they are working great!! (After sorting out one bad saddle that was causing noise)

    saddle6.jpg

     

    Here's how I trimmed them to better fit the James Tyler Bridge...(I also Had to drill out the back of the bridge because the Graphtech screws are a larger diameter.)

    saddle4.jpg

     

    The Piezo wires solder to the Bridge PCB as you would expect... with the added benefit that the Graphtech saddles have 2 wires (1 signal and 1 ground).

    3.jpg

     

    The Graphtech piezos are slightly higher output, so, I had to reduce the Global Volumes of the piezos in Workbench

    I hope this helps

    seeya

    Joe

  13. I had a similar problem.... the black aluminum knob cover separated from the plastic knob proper....

     

    knob.jpg

     

    If those parts separate, the knob cover will spin and seem like nothing is happening.

     

    I just put a dab of silicone on the plastic part of the knob and pressed the knob cover back on.

     

    I hope this helps

     

    seeya

     

    Joe

  14. Why not just parallel across the G10's USB 5 volts from the added jack and use a 5V 2A supply? Just don't want to plug in the USB supply too, but who would? ... or plug it up with epoxy. This eliminates the 9-5 converter. Is it 'cause pedals are mostly 9V and using one's existing 9V supply is attractive? This is just the jack and wires.

     

    The DC converter makes it easy because Pedal-board power supplies are 9VDC  :)

  15. Further to my post...

     

    If you search for the following on fleabay you should get a hit on the DC converter....

     

    "Step Down Power Module DC-DC 3A 9V/12V/24V to 5V USB 2A Precise Vehicle Charger"

     

    converter.jpg

     

    I un-soldered the USB connector on the DC converter so that I could hardwire the 5VDC to the G10 receiver.

     

    The DC Converter's 5VDC output is wired in parallel with the 100uF capacitor on the G10 Receiver... (Since this is a SMD cap, there is not much of a pad to solder to, so, you need to be careful and check to ensure there are no shorts before you power up.)

     

    For the 2.1mm jack I drilled a 5/16" hole below the existing USB port. The Negative Wire from the converter goes to the center pin of the DC jack.

     

    The DC converter is attached to the inside of the receiver with 3M double-sided tape.

     

    This is not a sanctioned mod and will void your G10 warranty... I can't be responsible for any damage  :( 

     

    seeya

     

    Joe

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