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cbrillow

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Everything posted by cbrillow

  1. cbrillow

    Line6 Relay G10 transmitter connections

    The TRS plug on the G10 does not mean that it's designed to receive or supply a stereo signal. It is designed to work with standard 1/4" TS (2-conductor) output jacks that are found on almost all conventional magnetic pickup guitars. It also works with many guitars with active electronics and preamps, but there are some documented cases of incompatibility. I believe there's a section in the user manual that mentions this, and maybe a thread on the forum or an FAQ that also addresses the issue.
  2. cbrillow

    USB interface

    This is a questionable configuration in 2018, but it used to work just fine. The biggest issue is incompatibility with newer versions of Windows, specifically Windows 10. A forum search will yield several posts which outline difficulties in making this combination work properly.
  3. I'll start with a simple question, which someone may be able to answer off the top of his/her head. Then, I'll go into a tedious explanation of what I'd like to accomplish. First, the question: If my JTV-59 is connected to a compatible Line 6 device with a VDI cable, will the analog output at the guitar's 1/4" output jack be suppressed, or could it be connected via a standard guitar cord to play through an amplifier? Now for the rest of the story, which may spark an alternate solution, or may result in a 'You can't get there from here' unhappy ending... The battery on my JTV-59 doesn't seem to have much longevity, despite the fact that I use the mag pickups more than the modeling. I'd like to be able to power it for everyday use and practice by connecting it to my Pod XT Live via VDI. But I'd prefer to go wireless into my Amplifi 30 through a Relay G10 plugged into the 1/4" output, because I like the sound of the Amplifi more than the output of the Pod XT played through my stereo amplifier. In this scenario, I'd essentially be using the Pod XT Live as an expensive power supply. But that's ok -- it's paid-for... If the output continues to be available at the 1/4" jack while connected via VDI, it would also open up the possibility to use the Pod XT Live to change models on the JTV, which would be VERY cool. I'd still be using the Amplifi for amplification, but wouldn't have to play with the knobs and switches on the guitar in the middle of a song. Another option that solely addresses the power issue may involve the XPS footswitch, which I've basically never used, although I have at least two of them, supplied with my Variax 500 and 600 guitars. Maybe it would be possible to power the Variax with the XPS and it's 3-conductor guitar cable, and plug the Relay G10 into the 1/4" output of the XPS box? I know: I could try these combinations, myself. And probably will. But I thought it would be useful to throw these scenarios out there and see if others have tried or given thought to possibilities such as these. Look forward to hearing any ideas or suggestions...
  4. Once again, thanks for your comment. I'm familiar with IdeaScale, and used to get weekly notifications. For some reason, those notifications stopped, and I have to make it a point to remember to visit occasionally.
  5. I'm at a severe disadvantage because I can't look at the circuitry, and have to rely on general knowledge and experience with electronics, guitars and amps. The current draw explanation seems spurious to me. For one thing, the output available at the 1/4" jack -- whether is from the modeling electronics or the mag pups -- is scaled to approximate a typical guitar signal, meaning milivolts, whether it's 10 or 150mv, and is going into a high impedance guitar amplifier input. Not exactly a big current drain situation in my eyes. I'll stop there, although the temptation is strong to speculate about internal routing of the signals and how they relate to the D-A and A-D conversion components to handle the modeling and transmission along the VDI. Sure, at some point, there may be an issue with the line to the 1/4" output presenting an extra load on an output only designed to handle connection to an internal stage of the onboard processing. But I remain skeptical that it's a current issue... There's no point in my even going there, because 1) I don't know for certain, and, 2) I'd be told that I'm wrong, just because I'm not supposed to know. So I'll just leave it at that. I know there's little chance that you'll address this, but I'll throw it out there anyway for anyone else who may care to comment: If this is truly a current-draw issue, I should be able to avoid any loading with a unity-gain voltage follower at the 1/4" output. From there, I should be able to do anything I want to with the signal without any possible interaction with the JTV electronics -- even hook up jumper cables to ground...
  6. Thanks for the link. Looks like there's some interesting information to be found there. Will look around!
  7. Thanks for your comment. I tried a forum search before posting this to see if it had been addressed, but didn't waste a lot of time trying different search term combinations. I'd like to be able to see these admonitions... Circuit overload, eh? Sounds like pholgiston to me... Or poor circuit design, if true.
  8. cbrillow

    Amplifi 30 Gig Bag

    Looks good! Seems the 16-can size coolers are just right for this purpose. I saw another brand at Costco the other day that looks like it's also a good fit.
  9. cbrillow

    AMPLIFI effects

    I wouldn't buy an FX100 strictly to use the effects. Look into one of the effects pedal units, instead. (not really familiar with the options, to be honest) The FX switching options are way too limited to be a satisfying choice as an effects-only pedal. You only have 4 preset selections, accessible via switches A, B, C and D. And bank up/down selection, which is awkward, at best. The individual effects can't be turned on or off at the tap of a switch. There's no 'Boost' switch available for a quick solo boost. Visible indication of the currently-selected preset is done via a two digit LED display and a single LED indicating which switch is active. Good luck remembering what '07' with the B LED on means. Do yourself a favor and re-think this! Addendum: IMO, If you're looking for a budget solution and are satisfied with earlier technology, a used POD XT Live would be a better choice than the FX100. You can turn the amp models off to allow you to take it straight into your amp, and the XT Live has switches for the individual effects.
  10. cbrillow

    Replacing the USB AC "plug"

    Should work just fine, as long as the specs meet or exceed what's put out by the Line 6 supply. For the record, I often use a power bank for my G10 receiver at live performances, to eliminate the need for extension cords and AC-power adapters.
  11. cbrillow

    Can I use 2 G10 transmitters with 1 reciver?

    No, each transmitter needs to be paired with its own receiver.
  12. cbrillow

    Cannot go into factory reset mode

    If this is a new unit, not a previously-owned one, it's unconscionable that it wasn't shipped with the latest firmware and required updating. As can be seen in this forum, updating these things can be very problematic, and it's clearly not a case of 'clueless users' who don't know what they're doing. I'd suggest returning it to the retailer, if purchased new, or open up a support ticket. Hold their feet to the fire. Updating should not be this fragile a process.
  13. cbrillow

    AMPLIFi 150 no tuner or volume control Help

    More information would be helpful... Did these features previously work and have suddenly disappeared? Both the iOS and Android versions of the remote app have been updated very recently. Has your device updated to the latest version, perhaps coincident with this development?
  14. Mine measures just a hair over 2", or about 51mm, measured eyeball with a scale. If you want more accuracy, I'll break out the digital calipers...
  15. cbrillow

    Hell froze over

    A little follow-up: The latest release is 2.60.3, following the previous version released almost exactly a year ago in 2017. These two releases are restricted to devices running iOS 10 or greater. My 3rd generation iPad is topped-out at iOS 9.3.5, and therefore I'm limited to running the 2.60.1 version of the remote app. Not a complaint -- I don't need anyone to tell me to buy a new iPad. Just passing along the information. I usually use the Android version, if I need to run the app.
  16. cbrillow

    Hell froze over

    Oh, no... The IOS version, too? Are your fingers crossed because you hope that there is some minor improvement? Or are you afraid that something that did work ok, is now broken? Could go either way...
  17. cbrillow

    amplifi 30 in 2018? any updates coming?

    I absolutely agree about the need for a foot controller, if you use the Amplifi in just about any kind of a live situation. If you have to change presets mid-song, it's slow and cumbersome to do it from the remote app while you're trying to play. And only having 4 preset choices available as buttons on the amplifier is also very restrictive. A FBV 3 or FBV Shortboard MKII makes a world of difference in usability. Didn't realize that there was an update to the Android app recently - thanks for pointing this out...
  18. This is an interesting thread, and I appreciate the time that the original poster took to perform and explain/document the results he achieved. My biggest problem doing anything where there is near-infinite variability and subjectivity, is deciding what sounds or looks better than the original iteration. I have the same problem adjusting images on my computer, for example. I'll see a tutorial demonstrating how someone has optimized and adjusted a photo in before/after thumbnails, and often either can't tell the difference or don't really think the 'finished' version is visibly better than the original. It's a real bugaboo for me with my JTV-59. I've had it for 5 years or more, and it's been sitting there unused for much of this time. I expected it to be leagues better than my first Variax, purchased when the were introduced in the early 2000s. That guitar was my go-to for years, but I never really warmed to the JTV-59. I had high hopes for the HD models, but found them to be a HUGE disappointment -- thin-sounding and weak. My old 500's models sounded much better, to my ears, in nearly every instance. Last summer, I had the opportunity to fill in for a guitar player in a 'classic rock' band, which would seem to be an ideal situation for the versatility of the JTV. Turns out that I preferred the sound of the mag pickups, and didn't use a single modeled guitar for any of the 40-some songs that I played with them. I'm now, at least, comfortable with the physical aspects of my JTV-59, but am still totally underwhelmed by the models. Maybe I can get inspiration from this thread to try to make some improvements! Thanks to the O.P.
  19. cbrillow

    Variax Model Sample Reference

    Interesting - thanks for taking the time to create this and share it with us. Spank switch position 5 not working, though!
  20. cbrillow

    amplifi 30 in 2018? any updates coming?

    As the old expression goes, 'Those who can say, don't know. And those who know, can't say.' If I had to bet, my money would say that the Amplifi series is a 'mature' product line that is very unlikely to see hardware improvements and almost equally unlikely to receive updates to the firmware or remote app.
  21. You'd need a power supply designed for use with U.S. power, which is 120Vac. So the input would be 120Vac and the output would be 9Vac. I don't know what the plug adapter you're trying to use accomplishes. If it allows you to connect your power supply into a 120Vac US receptacle, but doesn't convert the voltage to 230Vac required by the supply, it's output will not be correct. It'll be roughly half of the specified 9Vac, which could well explain why the unit doesn't attempt to start up. I would think that the easiest thing to do would be to purchase a US power adapter for the XT. You could get one from Line 6, ebay, Full Compass and maybe even amazon.com.
  22. Any chance you can have them fire it up at the store to prove that it works? Given all the grief you've put up with to get this far, that would seem to be a reasonable request. I would also have them check the firmware version, and if it's not the current version, HAVE THEM INSTALL THE UPDATE FOR YOU! If you've been paying attention, you may have noted that updating the firmware via USB can be fraught with peril, especially on Windows 10 machines. Some very knowledgeable, experienced computer hardware jocks -- and I'll include myself in that category -- have had spectacular failures attempting this. In my case, I had a Line 6 tech on the phone following me step-by-step and verifying that I was doing it correctly, yet it still failed, repeatedly. I had to pay to send my 150 back to the factory and was without it for nearly a month. When it was returned to me, I had to ask, but was told that 'There was nothing wrong with it. It just needed to be reset and updated.' Yeah? Well why couldn't I do that with the expert guidance of a tech via telephone? Tried 3 different computers, all up-to-date with latest O/S patches & drivers. It should not be this difficult to accomplish. Make sure you have an up-to-date Amplifi 75 that works, before you walk out the door with it! Hope all goes well and you love your new amplifier!
  23. If the switch on the G10 is not depressed by contact with the guitar output jack or the charging jack, the G10 will be OFF, consuming no current. In sleep mode, which is activated when the switch is depressed and there is no guitar signal present, the G10 will use a reduced amount of current, as it's waiting to be turned back on upon resumption of the guitar signal at its input. In other words, it will consume some current in sleep mode, meaning that the current charge will not last as long as if it had been completely disconnected from either the guitar or charging jack. I don't know if leaving the G10 in the charger when the charger isn't connected to the power source will result in a discharge or potential battery degradation, but wouldn't be surprised if it did.
  24. It does seem as though it's trying to tell you something, doesn't it? Maybe some type of undocumented -- to end users -- diagnostic. Perhaps psarkissian will check in on this, at least with advice to contact the service department... Out of curiosity, I took my battery pack out of the charger and plugged it into my JTV-59 just a few minutes ago. It did what was expected -- lit all 4 green LEDs briefly, then turned 'em off. Pressing the check button again repeats the process, each time the button is pressed. That's what's supposed to happen. Incidentally, this is with a questionable battery -- one that's not particularly long-lived. But, at least it still works...
  25. cbrillow

    FX100 Compatibility to Spider V

    Well, I'd say that the strict answer to your question is 'Yes', but I personally wouldn't invest in a combination like this. Truthfully, I don't have much experience or knowledge of any of the Spider amplifiers, aside from using a borrowed one, ironically, with my FX100 at a gig where I sat in on 3 songs with a classic rock band. But that was a case of calling up a clean amplifier patch on the Spider and using the FX100 to supply distortion, amp simulation and other effects. I didn't have an opportunity to fully evaluate how well they worked together -- in was a 'one-and-done' impromptu situation. My reasoning for rejecting such a combination is that you're combining two modeling devices, each of which offers a wide range of tone choices. To use such a combination effectively requires a lot of digging it to both units and really learning how to utilize their functionality so that you're not inadvertently setting up clashes that do more harm to your tone than good. And in so doing, you may find that you're effectively negating some of each unit's features and confusing the hell out of yourself in the process. In the FX100, you have effects, amp models and cabinet sims. A lot of these things are effectively duplicated in the the Spider -- things can quickly become very complicated. In my opinion, the best-sounding, easiest-to-use and least expensive option would be to go with an Amplifi 75 or 150. I know much has been written about sketchy bluetooth connectivity in the Amplifi series. I have a 30, a 150 and an FX100. Although I don't use bluetooth streaming on a reqular basis, I can report that I've not had the connectivity issues that others have reported with any of my devices. Buying a Spider, especially the newest iteration, in addition to an FX100 is gonna be costly. Alternately, the FX100 would be a good choice going into a power amplifier of some sort, especially a FRFR system. My next choice would be a basic, quality guitar amplifier connected to the FX100. Just my opinion, not a declaration of expertise or presumed credibility. Others will probably weigh in with conflicting counsel, and that's ok. Their opinions count, too!
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