cbrillow

Mine measures just a hair over 2", or about 51mm, measured eyeball with a scale. If you want more accuracy, I'll break out the digital calipers...

A little follow-up: The latest release is 2.60.3, following the previous version released almost exactly a year ago in 2017. These two releases are restricted to devices running iOS 10 or greater. My 3rd generation iPad is topped-out at iOS 9.3.5, and therefore I'm limited to running the 2.60.1 version of the remote app. Not a complaint -- I don't need anyone to tell me to buy a new iPad. Just passing along the information. I usually use the Android version, if I need to run the app.

Oh, no... The IOS version, too? Are your fingers crossed because you hope that there is some minor improvement? Or are you afraid that something that did work ok, is now broken? Could go either way...

I absolutely agree about the need for a foot controller, if you use the Amplifi in just about any kind of a live situation. If you have to change presets mid-song, it's slow and cumbersome to do it from the remote app while you're trying to play. And only having 4 preset choices available as buttons on the amplifier is also very restrictive. A FBV 3 or FBV Shortboard MKII makes a world of difference in usability. Didn't realize that there was an update to the Android app recently - thanks for pointing this out...

This is an interesting thread, and I appreciate the time that the original poster took to perform and explain/document the results he achieved. My biggest problem doing anything where there is near-infinite variability and subjectivity, is deciding what sounds or looks better than the original iteration. I have the same problem adjusting images on my computer, for example. I'll see a tutorial demonstrating how someone has optimized and adjusted a photo in before/after thumbnails, and often either can't tell the difference or don't really think the 'finished' version is visibly better than the original. It's a real bugaboo for me with my JTV-59. I've had it for 5 years or more, and it's been sitting there unused for much of this time. I expected it to be leagues better than my first Variax, purchased when the were introduced in the early 2000s. That guitar was my go-to for years, but I never really warmed to the JTV-59. I had high hopes for the HD models, but found them to be a HUGE disappointment -- thin-sounding and weak. My old 500's models sounded much better, to my ears, in nearly every instance. Last summer, I had the opportunity to fill in for a guitar player in a 'classic rock' band, which would seem to be an ideal situation for the versatility of the JTV. Turns out that I preferred the sound of the mag pickups, and didn't use a single modeled guitar for any of the 40-some songs that I played with them. I'm now, at least, comfortable with the physical aspects of my JTV-59, but am still totally underwhelmed by the models. Maybe I can get inspiration from this thread to try to make some improvements! Thanks to the O.P.

Interesting - thanks for taking the time to create this and share it with us. Spank switch position 5 not working, though!

As the old expression goes, 'Those who can say, don't know. And those who know, can't say.' If I had to bet, my money would say that the Amplifi series is a 'mature' product line that is very unlikely to see hardware improvements and almost equally unlikely to receive updates to the firmware or remote app.

You'd need a power supply designed for use with U.S. power, which is 120Vac. So the input would be 120Vac and the output would be 9Vac. I don't know what the plug adapter you're trying to use accomplishes. If it allows you to connect your power supply into a 120Vac US receptacle, but doesn't convert the voltage to 230Vac required by the supply, it's output will not be correct. It'll be roughly half of the specified 9Vac, which could well explain why the unit doesn't attempt to start up. I would think that the easiest thing to do would be to purchase a US power adapter for the XT. You could get one from Line 6, ebay, Full Compass and maybe even amazon.com.

Any chance you can have them fire it up at the store to prove that it works? Given all the grief you've put up with to get this far, that would seem to be a reasonable request. I would also have them check the firmware version, and if it's not the current version, HAVE THEM INSTALL THE UPDATE FOR YOU! If you've been paying attention, you may have noted that updating the firmware via USB can be fraught with peril, especially on Windows 10 machines. Some very knowledgeable, experienced computer hardware jocks -- and I'll include myself in that category -- have had spectacular failures attempting this. In my case, I had a Line 6 tech on the phone following me step-by-step and verifying that I was doing it correctly, yet it still failed, repeatedly. I had to pay to send my 150 back to the factory and was without it for nearly a month. When it was returned to me, I had to ask, but was told that 'There was nothing wrong with it. It just needed to be reset and updated.' Yeah? Well why couldn't I do that with the expert guidance of a tech via telephone? Tried 3 different computers, all up-to-date with latest O/S patches & drivers. It should not be this difficult to accomplish. Make sure you have an up-to-date Amplifi 75 that works, before you walk out the door with it! Hope all goes well and you love your new amplifier!

If the switch on the G10 is not depressed by contact with the guitar output jack or the charging jack, the G10 will be OFF, consuming no current. In sleep mode, which is activated when the switch is depressed and there is no guitar signal present, the G10 will use a reduced amount of current, as it's waiting to be turned back on upon resumption of the guitar signal at its input. In other words, it will consume some current in sleep mode, meaning that the current charge will not last as long as if it had been completely disconnected from either the guitar or charging jack. I don't know if leaving the G10 in the charger when the charger isn't connected to the power source will result in a discharge or potential battery degradation, but wouldn't be surprised if it did.

It does seem as though it's trying to tell you something, doesn't it? Maybe some type of undocumented -- to end users -- diagnostic. Perhaps psarkissian will check in on this, at least with advice to contact the service department... Out of curiosity, I took my battery pack out of the charger and plugged it into my JTV-59 just a few minutes ago. It did what was expected -- lit all 4 green LEDs briefly, then turned 'em off. Pressing the check button again repeats the process, each time the button is pressed. That's what's supposed to happen. Incidentally, this is with a questionable battery -- one that's not particularly long-lived. But, at least it still works...

Well, I'd say that the strict answer to your question is 'Yes', but I personally wouldn't invest in a combination like this. Truthfully, I don't have much experience or knowledge of any of the Spider amplifiers, aside from using a borrowed one, ironically, with my FX100 at a gig where I sat in on 3 songs with a classic rock band. But that was a case of calling up a clean amplifier patch on the Spider and using the FX100 to supply distortion, amp simulation and other effects. I didn't have an opportunity to fully evaluate how well they worked together -- in was a 'one-and-done' impromptu situation. My reasoning for rejecting such a combination is that you're combining two modeling devices, each of which offers a wide range of tone choices. To use such a combination effectively requires a lot of digging it to both units and really learning how to utilize their functionality so that you're not inadvertently setting up clashes that do more harm to your tone than good. And in so doing, you may find that you're effectively negating some of each unit's features and confusing the hell out of yourself in the process. In the FX100, you have effects, amp models and cabinet sims. A lot of these things are effectively duplicated in the the Spider -- things can quickly become very complicated. In my opinion, the best-sounding, easiest-to-use and least expensive option would be to go with an Amplifi 75 or 150. I know much has been written about sketchy bluetooth connectivity in the Amplifi series. I have a 30, a 150 and an FX100. Although I don't use bluetooth streaming on a reqular basis, I can report that I've not had the connectivity issues that others have reported with any of my devices. Buying a Spider, especially the newest iteration, in addition to an FX100 is gonna be costly. Alternately, the FX100 would be a good choice going into a power amplifier of some sort, especially a FRFR system. My next choice would be a basic, quality guitar amplifier connected to the FX100. Just my opinion, not a declaration of expertise or presumed credibility. Others will probably weigh in with conflicting counsel, and that's ok. Their opinions count, too!

That's pretty pathetic. You've been a very patient guy and deserve better treatment than this. Guessing that this is an independent repair service that's been authorized and (maybe) trained by Line 6 to work on their products. I would contact Line 6 by phone or email and bring this lack-of-service and follow-up to their attention. I suspect that they appreciate knowing how the repair facilities that they have authorized are doing. Maybe they'll light a fire under this unaccountable gang...

Nope, not the 30. The 75 and the 150 have this, but not the 30.

Hope it works out well for you...

The description and dimensions shown are unclear and ambiguous: This is an 11" x 9" x 6" shoulder bag with a large zipper compartment and 6 double snap pouches. The pouches work great for magazines, but this multi-purpose bag is perfect for any other equipment. Made from heavyweight canvas and Product Dimensions: 16.6 x 11.6 x 2.3 inches 'Made from heavyweight canvas and...' And what? Which set of dimensions is correct? 2.3 inches? What dimension is only 2.3 inches? Think I'd ask for clarification before ordering this.

This is a simple solution, but it does require a minimal amount of technical/soldering experience, and the ability to measure and adjust the voltage to 9Vdc priot to connecting it to your Amplifi 30. I used the 12volt battery from my Fender Amp Can as the input to the DC-DC converter in the following Amazon.com link: High Current DC-DC converter The battery used isn't critical, as long as it can supply 12Vdc, with adequate current to satisfy the Amplifi. The batteries used in computer UPS equipment work well for this. Just select the one that gives you the most current at a price that you find attractive. I also use a G10 running from a USB power bank -- works great! (and a magnetic breakaway micro-usb connector going into the transmitter)

Sometimes -- like after a failed Amplifi firmware update, which is far from a rare occurrence, as documented on this forum -- a trash bag would seem to be an appropriate choice...

I have the 16-can version, which measures 12.25" x 7.375" x 11.25" (31.12cm x 18.73cm x 28.58cm)

For all the aggravation you've put up with, I would be insisting on this under threat of reporting the shop to the appropriate governing body for failure to comply with the law. You've been very patient -- they're taking advantage of you.

Here are some quick pictures. The names are pretty much self-explanatory, but if you have any questions, fire away. I wasn't able to locate the carrying strap I made from the Micro Spider handle, but one of the pictures shows the hook & loop connection on the side of the Amplifi 30. If I find the strap, I'll show what it looks like attached to the amp. Edit: I see that the filenames don't show up. So here's a brief description. Picture 1 -- Amplifi 30 inverted and snugly fitting in the case, with power supply and cables at the bottom of the cooler. If you're not comfortable with the snug fit, the blue hard plastic liner comes out, which will make for a looser fit, but also result in less protection from impacts. The liner is slightly tapered, so the amp will not go all the way to the bottom, which leaves some storage space for accessories below. Exterior view, showing Velcro closure strap and external pocked, good for cables, capo, etc. Bottom storage area. This tray is designed to fit at the top, to separate what you put up there from the contents on the bottom. (Nominally, beer or soda cans...) I've inverted it so that it fits nicely around the amp's perimeter and keeps it centered in the blue plastic shell. The 2" heavy duty hook & loop connection for securing the carrying strap/handle. (not shown)

I use an Arctic Zone cooler that I got from Wal*mart as a gig bag/carrying case. I put the power supply and my Relay G10 in the bottom, then invert the 30 and put it with the control panel facing down. There's a bit of a taper on the sides of the cooler, so the 30 fits snugly and doesn't go down far enough to touch the stuff stored below. And there's an upper tray that I invert, which keeps the 30 firmly centered. It's not a 'perfect' fit, but I'm very happy with how it works out. There's also a front pocket that can accommodate a guitar cable or tuner, if you need a little more space. For a carrying handle, I happened to have one from a Micro Spider. I attached 2" heavy duty Velcro pads to the sides of the amp and the strap. Works great! Maybe I'll attach a pic or two, if anyone's interested.

No. For now, you'll have to use an external looper/pedal. Unlikely that this will ever be added to existing Amplifi firmware, but never say never...

Good information for now and the future. Would like to see this made a 'Sticky'....

You might try to be a little more informative about your problem...