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Posts posted by sdsingle

  1. Yes, just in case some dev is working on fixing this issue I think you might be right that Native/Edit would continue to run after plugging the drive back in, but then closing Native or the DAW would mean doing it again. 

  2. UPDATE!!! - I looked into BIOS settings to see if there was any way to force a different disk numbering, and didn't see anything there. But as a last ditch effort, I opened up my PC and moved the SATA cable for my internal data drive D from port 0 on the motherboard to port 1.  As it has all along, Windows still assigns this drive disk 0, my boot drive C, disk 1, and my external USB drive as disk 2, drive E.  Go figure but for whatever reason HX Edit and HX Native both work fine now.  Fingers crossed that it'll survive the coming hardware or software restarts, etc., but for now it seems I am all set.

  3. Apologies, I misspoke, that internal drive D disk 0 is not a solid state drive, it's a regular SATA.  The C drive disk 1 with Windows and systems files is a SSD.  Both of those are internal and everything works fine with them enabled.  The issue is caused by plugging in the external SSD plugged in via USB and mounted as disk 2.  It's this:



    Will edit the original comment.

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  4. Linking an additional thread that discusses issues around disk 0 and external storage devices.  I'm basically where this guy is:


    This is a long thread but see this post and the posts from @Camelot_One starting around April 2020 describing issues around disk 0.  Some issues seemed to have been patched but there's something still going on for me.  Again I have a disk 0, and the external drive causing the issue is disk 2.  So I'm thinking there has to be some setting I can change to resolve the conflict.  Having a connected external drive via USB is such a common setup so there must be something I can do.

  5. OK, some additional info and a (not very acceptable) workaround.  I have a 1TB external Samsung drive connected via USB, and if I don't plug that in both HX Edit and HX Native in ProTools are now working. When I plug in that drive I can no longer launch HX Edit.   Additional info if it matters: Windows and system files are on C drive, disk 1.  An additional internal SATA HDD is drive D disk 0 and does not seem to cause an issue.  The external drive is E, disk 2.  I've tried different USB ports on front and back of my PC to connect the drive and that seems to not matter.


    That external drive has pretty much all the files I use so it's kind of a pain to not be able to use at it at the same time as HX Edit and HX Native.  Any recommendations for how to resolve this?  Is there some Windows drive management setting I can adjust?

  6. Thanks, found this:


    Windows does seem to recognize that some Line 6 drivers are incompatible with "Memory Integrity" but in response it supposedly shuts off that feature so that the incompatible drivers can load (I have some non-Line 6 incompatible drivers listed and those do not appear to be causing any problems).


    I've also found the threads on conflicts with memory cards and USB flash drives, but I don't have any of those.


  7. I am getting my Helix stuff set up again after a long time away.  After successfully updating the Helix firmware to 3.50 via Line 6 Updater, I now can't get Hx Edit to open.  I'm on Windows 11.  I've tried 3.50 and 3.51, and both seem to install fine, but nothing happens when either clicking the desktop icon or going to the file location of the executable and clicking on that.  Windows hourglass appears for moment, but no error message, nothing. Tried rebooting the PC, run as administrator, factory reset the Helix, tried launching with Helix on and Helix off, uninstalled and reinstalled, no dice.  Any ideas?



  8. Thanks to this forum I saw how to fix pedal squeak with white lithium grease.  But in taking apart the pedal assembly it kind of came apart in my hands before I could note exactly how the washers were supposed to go.  There is a large plastic one, a smaller plastic one, and a metal one.  I got it back together and it is functional, but I must have put something back either in the wrong order or facing the wrong direction, because now the pedal scrapes ever so slightly against the chassis.  Is there a parts assembly diagram somewhere that shows how this is supposed to be assembled?  Or would somebody be willing to post a close up photo of theirs?

  9. Like others have said you generally want to get them approximately even from patch to patch.  I'll often add a gain block at the end of the chain so I can easily even out the volume differences between patches.  Since we are adjusting gain and level at the amp/pre/overdrive/other blocks to color the tone as desired, having a gain block at the end gives some flexibility to boost or cut the volume without affecting the tone you have worked so hard to tweak.  This would be adjusting what the 100% volume is independent of any volume pedal you may have earlier in the chain. You can add/cut level in the output block too but I find I like having additional degrees of adjustment, and then you can also include this block as part of a "solo" switch that triggers additional volume as well as overdrive/distortion, etc.

  10. Earlier this week I exported several presets.   I brought them back in and now some are missing amp & cab models. Some other modules are there (compressor, delay, modulation, reverb, gain) but the amps and cabs are gone. Anyone else had this issue?  Others I exported are importing back in just fine.

  11. What PeterHamm said.  The answer probably depends on how the two tones are built.  Is it two different amp blocks altogether? Adding a second amp block?  Distortion/fuzz/drive being added before the amp?   Note that you also have the option of just adding an additional gain block at any point in the chain, and if you do it at the very end the "how dirty" decision can be separate from the "how loud" decision.  This is one of the great things about the Helix way vs. traditional pedals/amps.  But whatever the differences are, you can trigger them all by a single footswitch called "lead tone" or whatever.  As I think of it I don't know if I've tried using the same switch to simultaneously turn one block on and another block off, but if that's what you need maybe someone else knows if that's possible (e.g., amp 1 off, amp 2 on, distortion on, chorus off, etc.).

  12. I throw a gain module on as the last block before the last output.  That way at a gig if there are volume issues switching from preset to preset I can easily cut or boost without affecting the tone.  While there is a volume control in the output block, I've found sometimes even having it cranked all the way is still too soft.  So this gives additional flexibility.

  13. Hold down 9/10 before update or after update.

    I've been doing this after the updates. Not to specific on this in directions

    After, so it can update the factory presets and global settings changes that are included with this update.  This will wipe out any non-factory presets but If you first export your non-factory presets you can then import them back in after the reset.  

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