floorpuncher

I posted in here a couple of weeks about about the FBV 3. It turns out I wasn't having problems with it as much as the board has its quirks working with the HD Pro X. No big deal. The core functions worked. Until yesterday. So when I'm in User Bank 1, none of the A-D lights light up and I can't switch between my presets. This worked until yesterday. Additionally, if I go to Bank 2 and select A for my first preset in that bank, it will bring up the correct preset, but instead of A lighting up B lights up as opposed to Bank 1 where nothing lights up. The switches themselves still work because when I go through the different banks, I can use A-D to select the preset. I've tried resetting the foot switch in the FBV controller software with no luck. Anything I could be missing?

UPDATE***

It appears that the A-D buttons are acting as additional FS buttons. Any ideas on how to change this?

UPDATE 2**

I must have accidentally changed the FS setting in the global settings for the POD. I found it and fixed it.

the only way I have been able to do this is to "add 1" to the FS assignments.  I.e. - FS2 on the Pro X is FS3 on the FBV3, and so on.  FS1is "hard assigned" to the looper, so don't plan to use that unless you are doing looping.   

Got it. Thanks for the help. Hopefully this will be fixed at some point in the future.

you are not lost, that is "how it is".  the FBV3 is much newer than HD, and FS1 is now auto-assigned to the looper on/off (which would have been on FS5 on the 500X).  that means everything is shifted over 1.  (the "function" button is the setlist changer)

 

I was originally a little bummed on this -  I really like the FBV3 format/lights for use in my performance rig with my HD Pro X and was hoping this could be changed, but after speaking with a few people internally I don't see that happening in the forseeable future.  the silver lining: I just reassigned where the buttons were I wanted to go and it works great - had completely forgotten about that situation until I saw your post, which means that you'll probably adjust pretty quickly/easily ;)

Right on. Thanks for the response. I want to be sure I understand what you're saying when you say "I just reassigned where the buttons were I wanted to go". Are you saying that you were able to manually reassign the switches so that FS1 is indeed FS1? If so, how is this accomplished? Thanks for the help!

I just bought an HD Pro X with a FBV3 controller. I've had some trouble getting everything to work properly. After an update to the controller, I was able to get the lights and all that jazz working. I can get my presets to switch using the A B C D buttons and I can switch the effects I've assigned to the FS1-5. However, everything seems to be shifted. So the effects that I've assigned to FS1 are toggled with FS2. The effect for FS2 is toggled with FS3, etc.. If I step on FS1, the light for button A turns off, the light for FS1 and FS4 turn on. I've tried messing with some settings in the FBV Control program but truthfully, I'm a bit lost. Any help would be appreciated.

Huge: @ 22" x 11.5" x 3" high

Thank you!!

Does anyone know where I can find the measurements for the Firehawk FX? I'm getting ready to buy one and am wanting to figure out if I need to get a bag/case or if my current pedal board/case will work. Thanks.

Don't do it!   Although it would seem correct, it is the load presented to the amp that is important:  speakers to amp, not amp to speakers.  Your Y adapter will take the two 4 ohm loads and parallel them to 2 ohms!

If the cabinet you have is 8 ohms mono 4 ohms stereo, chances are that the 4 speakers in it are 8 ohms each , and the wiring is parallel for each pair of speakers, with the two sides being connected in series when bridged to mono.

Short of adding some 4 ohm power resistors in series into each speaker 'side', your best bet is to wire each pair of the stereo side as series, giving 16 ohms per side.

That was incredibly helpful, dude. I appreciate it. Are there any major cons to rewiring the cab for two 16 ohm series aside from the volume loss in this situation and the hassle of having to do the work? I'm buying the cab used, so there is no warranty to worry about. 

Also, would you happen to have any solid links that illustrate how this process would be done? Again, I appreciate your help.

I've got what I'm sure some will think is a really stupid question but I'm at my wits end trying to find something of any substance on the internet. I have a Spider IV HD 150 which we probably all know is stereo at 8 ohms per channel. I'm looking at getting a new cab that is rated at 8 ohms mono, 4 ohms stereo. As I understand it, it's generally a bad idea to run a single channel since the amp is designed to run stereo; makes sense. As I also understand it, while it is generally ok to run an amp with a lower impedance to a cab with a higher impedance (e.g. 8 ohm amp to 16 ohm cab), it is not good to run it the other way around (e.g. higher impedance to lower impedance).

So, after doing some looking it seems that one option is to simply rewire the speakers into to 16 ohm series, deal with a little volume loss, and you're golden. However, I was wondering if it's possible to bridge the two stereo channels by way of a y adapter. It seems, in my incredibly limited knowledge of the subject, that in theory you would be left with a 4 ohm mono out that could be fed to a 8 ohm mono connection on the cab. This almost seems too simple but it make sense to me, again with my limited knowledge on the subject. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks. - James

I realize this is an older thread but I just ran into this issue two weekends ago while playing a gig. My rig would put out a real quick, high pitch whine similar to feedback and then I would have no sound. The amp was still on like usual, the display was fine and if I turned a knob, say the channel volume knob, the display would show where I was adjusting the channel volume to however, there would be no sound. All of my connections were solid and a quick power cycle would bring everything back to life as if nothing had happened. This happened three or four times during our 30 minute set.

I reloaded the firmware and added my presets back and played a show this past weekend with no issues. I'm nervous that this is going to become a persistent issue. Any thoughts on this?