DarrellM5

Looks to me like you would just go 1/4" out from Trio to one of the FX returns on Helix and insert a return block at the end of your patch just prior to the output block.  That's how I run my BeatBuddy except that I use 2 cables since it's stereo.

Conventional wisdom would suggest that preamps would be the way to go but my ears tell me that this is not always the case.  I'd recommend trying both ways.  On some amps you might find that the preamp sounds better and with others it might be the opposite.

One great thing about Helix is that it's very easy to put both in your patch and A/B between them.

Ok. With your setup if I set the DT25 (via m audio midi and leave it) channel A topology III - to Class A topology III then my Vox patches I would just send there - correct?? If I set the dt25 channel A topology I to Class AB topology I then I'd send my fender amps there - correct?? So the midi from helix to DT25 wouldn't "change" anything - I would just have it set up before hand.

Pretty much.  In this case, the only MIDI I would send for each patch would be for the DT to switch topologies to the one I want.

Since you're opposed to using the battery in the JTV, I'd recommend either using the mags or another guitar.

It should be really simple for the Axe FX to control the DT via MIDI.  There's a DT Amplifier MIDI Implementation Guide available on the Line 6 site.  I'm currently using MIDI to control my DT with my Helix and it's a piece of cake.  There are several threads here on the forum regarding using Helix with the DT via MIDI that would be beneficial to you if you decide to take this route.

Another thing that works really well is to use the free DT Edit program to go in and configure your DT amp how you want (for example, turn of preamp, cab and mic modelling and set the topology).  Once you disconnect from the amp it will remain configured that way so there's no need to hook up the MIDI again unless you want to change something.  DT Edit has a super simple interface that takes about 30 seconds to figure out; it's really well designed.

EQ for electric guitar is a bit unique because of the typical amount of distortion we use. Where you adjust the EQ, before and/or after distortions blocks can make a huge difference. Generally cut lows and boost highs before distortion and boost lows and cut highs after distortion. Cutting the lows before distortion removes the mud that happens when the low frequencies are clipped and overwhelm the mids and highs. Boosting highs befor distortion doesn't have much effect on the distorted tone since the highs are just clipped. But it does effect what happens when you roll back the guitar volume control as the distortion is reduced and the highs come through. More on the reason for this coming up.

 

You want to do just about the opposite after distortion. You can carefully bring the bass back up to compensate for the cut you did before distortion. This won't add too much mud since it's not being distorted. It's often unnecessary to bring all the bass back since this can start causing mix conflicts with the bass player and keys. Then you cut highs post distortion to reduce fizz and ice pick that results from the distortion in order to warm the tone a bit.

 

Now why boost highs before distortion just to have them clipped? It's so that when you roll back the guitar volume control for cleaner tone the highs will come through because the boost will compensate for the high cut after distortion you needed to reduce the fizz.

 

This doesn't work exactly, you can't completely compensate for cut/boost pre distortion with boost/cut post distortion, and you might not want to as the tone and song might not need the balance. But it can be useful for getting a wider range of applicable tones from the same amp settings.

This is very helpful, as are all of your technical posts, and is definitely going into my OneNote file on Helix tips.  I enjoy your posts and your blog.  Have you ever considered writing a book?

I think this spreadsheet I created will give you the info you're looking for:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fsh7bjgik73gc7f/Helix%20-%20HD500X%20Settings%20for%20DT%20Series%20Amplifiers.xlsx?dl=0

BTW, the mags, at least on the JTV-69, sound amazing!!!

Thanks for taking the time.  I really like these.

I got to play with them for about half an hour tonight and, so far, I really like the way they sound with the Soldano clean channel, the Jazz Rivet, the Fender Twin and the Fender Deluxe.

Congratulations!!!   I'm also a non-gigging player who came from the HD500X.  Helix opened up a whole new world to me.

^^^^  Yep, I"ve tried this and it sounds excellent.

Although the older ones are great, there's a lot to be said for the newer models having magnetic pickups and the ability to switch tunings on the fly. Another thing to consider with the older models is that replacement parts can be difficult, if not impossible, to find.

I had a Variax 500 for 12 years, which I really enjoyed, but there's no way I could back now that I have a JTV-69.

My recommendation would be to save up and try to get one when the occasional great deals pop up.

BTW, I've used both models for some really great downtuned or alternate tuned metal (Soundgarden, Velvet Revolver, Devin Townsend, Keith Merrow, etc...)

I think you could accomplish this by putting fx sends at the end of each path and sending them to the amps. Even with the sends turned on the signal can still pass through to the output blocks at the ends of paths, which you can use to go XLR to your PA.

fullcompass.com sells parts.  I don't see that specific part listed but they can probably help you find what you need.

Not sure about the piezo pickup situation.

Yeah it works i have tried it many times but it sounded somehow dark and muddy BUT drag one down to path B and the sound opens up and is to my ears way better so i never do that again..

Interesting.  I'll play around with it some and see how it sounds to me.

I really like this but the shipping is costly.  I wonder if he'd consider some sort of group buy?

If you're going to use contact cleaner, spray it on a cotton swab and use that.

Do not go spraying inside that jack.

Didn't think of that and it didn't take much.  Just a quick squirt and then a couple minutes inserting and removing a cable.  At least it was Deoxit D5.  Next time I'll take your advice for sure.

A brand new guitar should not need any treatment to make it work!  Send it back.

True, but some of these "new" JTV's were produced as far back as 2013.

Regardless, cleaning the jack fixed mine.  Before I cleaned it, it wasn't even putting out enough volume to use a tuning pedal.

I had the exact same problem and I fixed it with some contact cleaner in the output jack of the JTV. It just wasn't making a good connection.

Sounds good. Now you should try running both amps at the same time. There's a template for doing it called 7 cable method or 8 cable method; something like that.

I've been able to use 2 of them in a single path on several patches.

What can you expect to get for the your 500X anyway, $200 maybe? Not worth it, imho...

I got $400 for mine, with the model packs, but I have to agree that if I were gigging, I'd have kept it as a backup.

Wow, what did you do with the leftover money after selling that stuff; buy a new car?

I only ever noticed it with the volume completely rolled off as well.  It never happened while playing with the volume rolled off a little.  I could have had them look at it as it was under warranty when I noticed the issue but, since it doesn't happen while playing, it doesn't bother me.

As for the quality, I'm very happy with mine, just as I was with the Variax 500 that I owned for about 12 years.

we need longer than 1 year!!!!!!

That's one of the biggest reasons I buy most of my gear at Sweetwater.  They tack on an extra year for free.

Well that didn't quite go according to plan. Anyone know the secret of getting an image up here (I guess everyone else on this thread). Jpeg says that extension not allowed on this forum. Bmp says 'message too short'. Png completed without error but clearly just a blank result. Definitely I'm missing something simple (oh, and I'm just dragging the image onto the text area, so maybe my workflow is goofy)

I upload them to a site like photobucket and then use the image icon above to insert the link.

8h charging for 3h 1/2

 

= it can be a problem 

I think it's a 3.5 hour charge will provide 8 hours of run time.  Also, a 30 minute charge should last 2.5 hours and a 15 minute charge should last an hour.