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Posts posted by DarrellM5
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Probably OK unless you have:
1) Kids.
2) A dog.
or
3) You're spastic... ;)
Or your wife has a habit of running into the attached cords with the vacuum cleaner. :unsure:
My Helix spent it's first 6 months on a music stand with only the above mentioned tip-over. No damage though as it landed on soft padded carpet.
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I'm totally satisfied with mine but, if I could add one cool feature, I think it would be awesome to have the ability to load alt tunings and additional models from my smartphone; kind of like TC Electronic's TonePrint feature.
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My EBMM Majesty can run the piezo and mags through a TRS cable. I bought a Y cable that's TRS on one end and splits to the individual tip and ring mono jacks. I run the mags into the Helix Guitar In and the Piezo into the Aux In.
Just process the mags on path 1A and the Piezo on path 2A. Don't add anything extra to 2A if you just want to send the unaltered signal to the L2m.
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I intended to keep my HD500X, along with a bunch of other gear, as a backup. After a week with the Helix I realized there was no way I could go back. It would be like going from a smart phone back to a flip phone. I ended up selling my 500X, Vetta II Combo, some various pedals and a Randall 1/2 stack as I had no use for them anymore. Although it wasn't my intention, selling that gear recovered the full price of the Helix and the Helix Backpack. I don't miss any of the items I sold.
I really struggled with the 500X and it took me quite awhile to get patches that satisfied my needs. Once I had them, I dreaded the thought of creating new ones. Helix makes creating patches an enjoyable experience. I can build them about as fast as I can think them up.
If I get to the point that I absolutely need to have a backup, I'll be adding an additional Helix.
Is it worth the money? That's up to you but for me, knowing what I know now, I would have felt totally justified paying considerably more.
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What helped me was this diagram that shows how Helix handles stereo and mono routing. Using this information, along with a stereo delay, might get you where you want to be. The stereo delay runs one side at a time that you choose and the other at a percentage, which you control with Scale, of that time.
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I don't have them but I can give you 3 things to try.
- The best option would be to find someone who backs up the factory setlists before they perform updates. I back up everything except the factory setlists but I'm sure some people back it all up.
- You could roll back to an earlier firmware
- Maybe someone will read this who hasn't updated to the latest firmware yet
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Thank you. From what I understand that means I have to reverse the connections to the sleeve and the ring in the jack inside the guitar. Do you confirm?
Your audio should be going to the tip. You're audio ground is probably going to either ring or sleeve and your battery ground is probably going to the the other one. I just had to move my audio ground over to the same one my battery ground was going to and it fixed my problem.
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Yep, I had to rewire one of my electric guitars. The instructions are here:
http://line6.com/support/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=4210
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I wonder if both Dtar systems are wired the same to the output jacks. Line 6 might have an idea but, if it were me, I'd definitely try a mono adapter between the G10 and the output jack and see what happens.
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My apologies for my ignorance. It was very simple to setup the MIDI to control the DT25..
Sorry,
Gary
I have to admit that I was dreading the MIDI thing, especially since I have almost zero MIDI experience, and was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to configure.
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Thanks everyone, I can't wait to get the variax cable to try it. I tried the JTV with a standard guitar cable and was surprised at how much I will have to change my Helix patches from my EVH guitar.
If you're very careful (as in stay in one place and don't move around) you can use a standard Ethernet cable to try it out.
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Although I found the MIDI solution to be a piece of cake and I'm getting incredible tones, I agree that full Helix/DT implementation would be great. I know it's very popular on Ideascale and I expect it to come eventually, after they finish tackling some of the more popular ideas.
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I tried this with a SS Randall RH100 amp and ended up with good results. I also ran it into a Mesa 2x12 and could easily gig with it. It really sounded good into a Randall 4x12 loaded with Celestion Seventy 80's. They're very inexpensive speakers but work really well with SS amps.
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Back when I first got the HD500X, I was really struggling with it to get the tones I was after. Glenn DeLaune's patches helped me tremendously. Some of them I used in their stock configuration and some of them I tweaked a little to match my playing style.
The greatest value with Glenn's patches was in deconstructing them and learning a bunch of great techniques for creating my own.
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Honestly if you can't hear the difference in the mags VDI vs 1/4, you're going deaf. If we're talking about the modeling alone, there is no difference.
VDI makes the magnetics more brighter than usual.
I'll check it out. I was only referring to the modeling.
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They sound the same to me. I use VDI 99% of the time.
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I'm just using a BeatBuddy. Helix is doing everything else I currently want.
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Hi!
I have also the Helix with the DT25.
Can Anybody make a screenshot of the Clobal IQ Settings.
and what is your Settings for the Low and High Cut if you use a Cab or a IR?
cu
Ftc
When I'm using my DT25 with the Helix, I have the Global EQ off. I also don't use a cab or IR since it's going into a real cab.
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Do you guys know how Line 6 modeled the Mark IV? I know the real amp has the push pull knobs for some of the controls like Bass(deep) and Treble (shift).
Here's part of a response from Ben Adrian (the guy at Line 6 that modeled the amp):
My philosophy for the amp when it came to all the tone switching was to try and use the more common setting. Also, some setting seemed to limit the range of the knobs, and in that case, I'd use the setting that gave the most adjustment range.
So, I used full power and simul-class. I think the harmonic/mid gain was set to harmonics.
I know the three presence knobs were pushed in, which gave the most difference in the power amp from channel to channel. I had to model a lot of the power amp THREE TIMES since the negative feedback changes on a per channel basis. What a pain
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I'm getting zero hum through mine and that's with quite a few different rigs.
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Yep, it's most likely that it was reverse wired and there are 2 solutions.
The fastest way to get up and running is to use a mono to mono adapter between your guitar's output jack and the G10.
The best solution is to reverse the ground wires on the guitar's output jack. There are 3 places on the jack for the wires to connect. 2 of them are grounds (audio ground and battery ground) and one is for the audio signal. I swapped the 2 grounds and it fixed my problem. My guitar was an Ibanez RGIR27FE 7-string with active EMG's. Swapping the grounds won't affect the guitar at all. It took me about 5 minutes to correct.
This link has more info.
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I'm using a 15' cable with no problems.
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1st World Problems. :)
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Does anyone else find the Reverbs in Helix really disappointing?
in Helix
Posted
So is it that people don't like the quality of the models or which reverbs were modeled?
For instance, they modeled a TC Electronics 2290. So is the Helix 2290 model subpar or are we just wishing for different models?
For me, the Helix reverbs are great. However, I'm very inexperienced with reverbs.