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Posts posted by ozbadman

  1. and i have an other question why I can't change the root of wiring in the Workbench?

    I would like to have an option to peke rooting by myself like in :Gibson Jimmy Page Les Paul Signature

    Is there any way to make it done?




    I'm not sure what you mean by this to be honest.


    The only reason you need all these controls on traditional guitars is so you can choose between them on the guitar itself. In the case of the JTV and workbench, you can choose series/parallel and normal/reverse, as well as move the pickups. So, you can do everything in workbench that the switches allow on your Jimmy Page schematic.


    If you mean why can't you do this on the guitar, the answer is that there is both a modelling and normal guitar in there. They already share the volume/tone controls and switches, so need special switches and pots. To add the Jimmy Page circuitry would require even more custom made switches and pots.


    If you really wanted to do this on the guitar, you could do it by adding your own switches, separate to the existing JTV controls, but they would only work on the pickups, not the modelled versions.

  2. bilbo,


    Actually, from a business point of view, not all profit is good or at least, good enough. There's an opportunity cost. You have limited resources. Let's say I have $X in resources to invest. And say, I can make $Y on a lefty, but it costs the $X to put the systems in place. If those same $X can make 2 * $Y on a different model, you're going to make the different model, despite the fact that you could have made money on the lefty. You can make more money on the other one in this example.


    That being said, the lefty request was changed to "in review" on ideascale on Nov 7th, whatever that means.

  3. dbaudrate, not if no-one can tell you've done so.


    As far as company support goes, Line6 is far better than most. As long as it's clear to them that it is in fact a warranty issue, they would sort it out. So just undoing some screws and doing them up again would normally be fine. Now, if you short the electronics with a screwdriver while doing so, they're going to be less forgiving.

  4. Have you tried plugging into an amp that way, or just through workbench?


    I'd try just with the battery, a 1/4 in cable, full guitar volume, and an amp to be sure that it's a battery conenction problem. It could also be the mag/model selector switch which is notorious for having issues to do with the knob being too long and bottoming out on the guitar.

  5. I know I can set up individual patches with it either on or off, but is there a system wide behaviour I can change until I begin making those patches?




    With the latest firmware, Page 7 of the System Setup gives you the option of "don't force" for the Variax model stored with the patch.


    See page 2-12 of the current HD500 Advanced User Manual.

  6. Thanks.  I've already worn out the you tube demos of the variax.  The reason I'm here is that I REALLY am impressed by the sound bites.  If the instrument is really a strat/LP competitor, both in quality & playability, then I'm even more anxious to get my hands on one.  But after reading about things like "warbling" & other tone "issues" here and on other sites I'm still hesitant.  A nice 30-day in-home trial is what I'm after.  I just can't seem to find any locally, yet.  I'm still hopeful.


    Thanks again.


    Cool. Yep, I'm happy with the acoustic sounds and bought my first Variax 700 based on youtube videos. Every bit as good as the videos show.


    JTVs IMHO are definitely not the same quality as a USA strat or LP. Closer to a Korean PRS or Mexican strat. You may get a good one, you may not. And that's the problem. It's not that the Korean can't make good guitars. It's that they can't make them consistently. Q.C. is not up to Japanese standards, so what you get is a little more of a lottery. But, Line6 support is excellent, so they will do what they can.


    I'd buy online from any of the retailers that offer a 30-day money back guarantee. That way, you can trial it and return it if it's not for you (not very likely IMHO), or if there are any issues, your retailer will get it sorted for you (a touch more likely IMHO).


    I have bought many things from the big/medium online music retailers, including guitars, and any issues have been handled well so I wouldn't have any concerns there.

  7. The quality of the clean tones on the HD is much better than on the X3/XT. This goes for both effects and amps. The X3/XT have many more amps, but most of the variations are in dirty tones, and they all sound somewhat similar to me anyway.


    The VDI cable that comes with the JTV is completely fine for your bedroom playing. Especially since you seem to be on a tight budget.


    The XT is the same tone quality as the X3. Basically, the X3 is the XT with all the tone packs (which you don't need for your circumstances).


    So, I would either get the XT or the HD500. You do not need the HD500X.


    You could also get an HD300 (which is simpler to understand) and one of these to solve your battery problem:



    Personally, I think you should get the HD500. It is a little complex, but very versatile and the tone quality is excellent.

  8. It sounds like it only happens when you first turn it on.


    I would be aware of the order I connected things and turned them on. There may be an issue there.


    For example, is it always bad/good if you do: power on amp, power on HD500, connect using L6 link? Change the order of these things. Does that make a difference?

  9. hd400hum destroyer cool to touch  what gets hot:?


    The wires inside. Power amp currents are large, so you need thick wires. If the wires are thin (as they would be for line level devices), the wires overheat and catch fire. Their current rating is much lower than you would need.


    Also, a power amp is designed for a particular impedance, often 8 ohms. If it isn't connected to the correct impedance, lots of things can happen, including damaging your power amp.

  10. That's the one I got.  I want to say it didn't take that long to get -- less than a week.


    You guys talked me into getting one of these. I just ordered it. I would have preferred the THD hotplate, but they seem really hard to get, and they're very expensive compared to the Weber. The Weber has variable input impedance, which I like, but I would have liked the bass boost as well, which the hotplate has (mind you, from what I've read, it can make the sound a little muddy). Hopefully turning up the Bass on the amp will work sufficently well if necessary when I use the attenuator (this'll be my first use of an attenuator, so I'm not quite sure what to expect).

  11. Hi Guys,


    I know this is not really the right palce for this, but I can't find anything on the web and you guys seem to know what you're talking about.


    I have a Blackstar HT-Dual and new Vox Straight 6. They are both Hi-Voltage tube overdrives, running off low voltage with a step-up system.



    I didn't realise until recently that replacing tubes meant having to check/adjust the bias. Is this not necessary on guitar pedals? It seems like it would be necessary but nobody on the web seems to mention it as far as I can find.


    Any insight?


    Thanks all.

  12. Since I just pulled my DT25 apart to retube/bias I thought I might say what I noticed. There is a PCB that runs the full length of the knobs inside, which looks like the pot is soldered to. I could not get a good view of the pots because of the other internal stuff, but it looks like it might be more complex than just a pot swap.


    It's pretty common to solder pots directly to the circuit board. I know Line 6 uses specialist pots in their JTVs, but I can't think of any reason that would be necessary for the DT amps. As you point out, they may be hard to get to, but I would still expect it to be just a pot swap. Of course, I could easily be wrong. :)

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