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Brazzy

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Posts posted by Brazzy

  1. Sounds cool. Android user here so.. that's out. This was a product of me wanting to walk away from the computerization. I find it causes too much distraction for me. Setting my HD500 was becoming a hobby on to itself. I just disconnected my L6link and went back to a basic set of pedals and the amp. Love the amp and now I love just tweaking the dials :)

     

    I agree with you. It can be a real inspiration killer to learn.

    I didn't use the L6 Link very much. Instead used the HD500 along with the MIDI Implementation Guide with one Midi cable to program the channel switcher, the amps, reverbs and I was able to use the pedal to control the reverb or whatever I wanted. It really works well that way.

    Get confused less, Play more.

  2. For those that go old school and just write stuff down here is a handy dandy settings sheet to facilitate that.

     

    Enjoy!

     

    That's cool. Thumbs Up to ya.

    At the beginning I was taking screen shots since I was using an iPad with the DTCustomizer app. Then I learned I could use MIDI Mobilizer to record my knob and switch movements and then actually play them back or load with. 

  3. I finally got the update to work on my DT25, after many, many attempts. Like a lot of people I cannot specify exactly how, as your mind goes numb eventually, but, in a nutshell:

     

    I failed with a cheapo midi interface, so bought a Midiport Uno which came today. (I'm not convinced it was this that made the difference though- more likely blind perseverance) I updated the M-Audio drivers, already had the latest Monkey, and connected it IN/IN OUT/OUT in violation of the 'official' advice.

     

    My pc has several usb ports, and I struck gold at the third attempt (the one I use to charge my mobile phone). While using a different usb the amp was recognised by Monkey, and showed the software as V1.0, but duing update it came up with a different error code. Anyway I switched to the other usb and Monkey recognised the DT25 but couldn't see the software version, so I went for it and several minutes later it successfully completed!

     

    I think the moral is- try all the usb ports, and (in the case of the Uno) connect the midi plugs in-in. Perhaps some manufacturers are guilty of second-guessing their customers?

     

    Either way, it finally worked so I am now a happy bunny ;)

     

    LOL, it can definitely be mind numbing and uninspiring at times :) It's been a real long time since I updated my DT50HD. 

  4. I recently bought HD500X frm someone. i was a new user of line6 but learnt somehow. Now m trying to register my product but having problem, Actually theseller doesnt remember the date of purchase & has lost the bill also. now what to do ? m not able to register my product.

     

    Do a support ticket or call Line 6?

  5. If i haven't reinstalled this from when i ran on windows 7 to my reformat of windows 10 would this have any affect on the current way its installed? Not sure if by default it was already installed when i reinstalled the drivers, if not then it's possible the firmware is from windows 7? I'm just trying to think of everything.

     

     

    As far as I know the firmware in the UX2 is separate from the OS. I had an issue with my UX2 I couldn't fix any other way. Like you I uninstalled the drivers, programs. I did everything but redo the firmware.
     
    In Monkey if you select/click the 'firmware' you should see a button that allows you to reinstall it. Most people are afraid to install/reinstall firmware cause their is a risk that if the 'installation' is interrupted somehow the device could be rendered useless or so some say 'bricked'.
     
    I've never had an issue working with firmware and I've dealt with a lot of devices.
  6. What do you mean the firmware? I assume that's different from the line 6 ux2 drivers that come with monkey. If so, yes I've reinstalled the drivers inside monkey.

     

    Yes it's different than the drivers. With the device connected to the computer open Line 6 Monkey look for firmware then click on it and click reinstall firmware. Check it out and see if it's there.

  7. It sounds like sparklers or fireworks. Must be a bad connection or component. Maybe a guitar cable? Does it do it with the guitar cable unplugged?

    Ooooops nevermind I saw that screen.

  8. After trying everything to balance the volume using the 4CM, I found that the best way is to use the FX RETURN level (inside the FX LOOP BLOCK) and boost it. (I have a Marshall AMP, and set it around +7db)

     

    When I read what johnsontylerj wrote about that the light bulb went on along with adjusting the guitar z depending on what effect one puts before the amp/mixer. I mean it was almost like hearing the angels sing. lol

  9. Hey, thanks for replying! those are actually really good tips and that pretty much answered most of my questions.

     

    Any more tips on how to balance the volume? I've been reading a lot and If I'm not mistaken the master volume DEP should start at noon and you should focuse on "tone" rather than volume (although changes may affect the volume itself) and I've read somewhere that the master volume on the pod should be ideally completely maxed unless there's clipping, so that leaves me with the "CH. volume" and the mixer block to control  thevolume.

    If I'm not mistaken, the "ch volume" also affects the tone, so, should I just use the mixer to control the actual volume when I'm satisfied with a certain tone?

     

    Also, are there any real differences in tone when using a mono signal with A and B panned center or using just signal A and muting B completely? besides more volume...

     

    Thanks!

     

    No problem man. I'm not an expert sound guy but I try to read and get experience at home as much as I can. Been at it off and on since about 2008 now. I usually max the pod's master volume and then make the patch setting accordingly but you could also always set the master to 70% and then set the patches accordingly too.

    Here's what I do. I set the pod master to max, choose an amp, crank my guitar volume 100% or close to it, I turn amp model stack (drive, bass, mid, treb, pres and vol) all the way down, then I open the drive about 30% and the volume 50%-100% and do a full chord strum to see what I get, then I increase the mids to say 50% and do the same thing. I'll do that with the rest of the stack and if I need to turn the amp model volume down or up to compensate I will. This gives me an idea how each control affects the tone and drive. This is how I get acquainted with the amp model and guitar combo. Once I like the guitar amp model tone I'll add effects one at a time and readjust if I think it needs. Obviously this is not set in stone. There are many ways to do it.

    Most of the time I monitor with my Spider Jam running the pods L 1/4"  out in the Aux input and I only use one amp and channel on the pod, usually the "A" channel but I've also ran the "B" channel into the guitar input on the SJ at the same time so I can mix both channels or pan in and out of them with the pedal but that's another story.

    When I monitor with the Spider Jam I usually turn it's master volume to max or just under when I set my pods patches so I'm at max on both the pod and the Spider Jam. This is how I've been doing it.

    If I run the pod into my DT50HD I plug the Left 1/4" out into the fx return and run the DT's master at about 50-70%, set the pods master to 100% and then set the patches with the same method I used when feeding into my Spider Jam.

    I don't think there are any real differences between When in mono or dual cause when the levels are adjusted to sound good no matter which way you use it still has to sound good. I usually always just use one channel at a time (mono) and pan in between them with the pedal. It's trail and error so if you going to tweak you mine as well have a set method of doing it so you don't get lost and after a while it becomes second nature and easier and easier to as you gain experience.

    Hope some of that helps man.

    ADDED: Now when I run 4CM then I'll do the same thing with the real amps tone stack, turn them all down and with the guitar volume maxed slowly crank the real amp drive and volume up, play the guitar hard to drive the rig and then open the mods and so on and so on. Then add effects accordingly.

  10. This helped me a while ago. Maybe it can help you a bit. If you already read it carry on.

     

    I've cracked the HD500 4CM!!!

    Postby johnsontylerj » Wed May 02, 2012 8:23 pm
    OK fellas - I've figured it out...It's way later than a month after the last post. (sorry about that)

    1.  Here's the Skinny, I've done tests now with signal generators to get consistent levels, and been very scientific about all this.
    2.  There are two main reasons for tone suck using the 4CM and an HD500 - and one of the reasons is a legitimate bug in the product - one is actually intentional.
    3.  First step in config - Input assignments = Input 1-Guitar, Input 2-Variax. This lowers the noise-floor of the pedal.
    4.  First - there is a 2.8dB difference between the Input Jack and the FX Send Jack (this is the bug). This has a huge impact on the tone. When you're using the HD500 as a pedal board before the Blackstar Preamp - the FX send switch needs to be set to "Stomp" - If it's set to "Line", you're unnaturally clipping the preamp in an unpleasant way because it's sending a signal that's 10dB LOUDER than the input signal...We all knew that.
    5.  Now if you were to test the signal like I did, you would notice NEGLIGIBLE differences in the tone. The Gut Shimmer is back, right?
       Then - you turn up BOTH A and B channels of the Mixer to "+3.0dB" and pan them both to "Center".
       The solution is to place the FX loop AFTER the mixer in your FX chain - so It goes: [Effects blocks]=>[Amp Model (Bypassed)]=>[Mixer]=>[FX LOOP]=>[Remaining Effects Blocks] Make Sense?
    6.  But wait - if your using a patch that has a fuzz face in it, or an analogue chorus (or a number of other FX)- and it's the first thing in the signal chain your thinking - "Why the hell is my tone still wrong - it sounds like someone turned the tone knob on my guitar down!!"
    7.  Well, this is the intentional part of the HD modelling...It's called Input Z. Line 6 is modelling the individual and authentic impedances of the pedals and Amps being modeled. Hence an analogue chorus with a 22K pot being first thing in the chain will KILL your tone. The fix is simple - either move the effect, or set the Input Z globally to 3.5M, or 1M - there's almost no difference between the two as far as the end result is concerned.
    • Upvote 1
  11. Thank you so much for that, I am still learning guitar, know quite a bit at the moment, just keep hitting wrong strings. but getting there

     

    You're Welcome, I'm still learning too. Thumbs up to ya and have fun. :)

  12. Here's something I saved from a while ago. Maybe will help some.

    I've cracked the HD500 4CM!!!

    Postby johnsontylerj » Wed May 02, 2012 8:23 pm
    OK fellas - I've figured it out...It's way later than a month after the last post. (sorry about that)

    1.  Here's the Skinny, I've done tests now with signal generators to get consistent levels, and been very scientific about all this.
    2.  There are two main reasons for tone suck using the 4CM and an HD500 - and one of the reasons is a legitimate bug in the product - one is actually intentional.
    3.  First step in config - Input assignments = Input 1-Guitar, Input 2-Variax. This lowers the noise-floor of the pedal.
    4.  First - there is a 2.8dB difference between the Input Jack and the FX Send Jack (this is the bug). This has a huge impact on the tone. When you're using the HD500 as a pedal board before the Blackstar Preamp - the FX send switch needs to be set to "Stomp" - If it's set to "Line", you're unnaturally clipping the preamp in an unpleasant way because it's sending a signal that's 10dB LOUDER than the input signal...We all knew that.
    5.  Now if you were to test the signal like I did, you would notice NEGLIGIBLE differences in the tone. The Gut Shimmer is back, right?
       Then - you turn up BOTH A and B channels of the Mixer to "+3.0dB" and pan them both to "Center".
       The solution is to place the FX loop AFTER the mixer in your FX chain - so It goes: [Effects blocks]=>[Amp Model (Bypassed)]=>[Mixer]=>[FX LOOP]=>[Remaining Effects Blocks] Make Sense?
    6.  But wait - if your using a patch that has a fuzz face in it, or an analogue chorus (or a number of other FX)- and it's the first thing in the signal chain your thinking - "Why the hell is my tone still wrong - it sounds like someone turned the tone knob on my guitar down!!"
    7.  Well, this is the intentional part of the HD modelling...It's called Input Z. Line 6 is modelling the individual and authentic impedances of the pedals and Amps being modeled. Hence an analogue chorus with a 22K pot being first thing in the chain will KILL your tone. The fix is simple - either move the effect, or set the Input Z globally to 3.5M, or 1M - there's almost no difference between the two as far as the end result is concerned.
  13. Yeah, it's been a while for me too, but I do remember successfully using Audacity with my PODxt, without Line6 ASIO drivers. But it was only as an exercise.

     

    I was using Sony Acid at the time, but due to lack of support I jumped to Reaper. 

     

    I would have to agree Reaper is probably the better way to go. I remember having to find, download and install LAME and another piece of software in order for Audacity to work the way I wanted. It wasn't too difficult for me but it was still extra steps that needed taking. I still use Audacity from time to time but only to edit a bit and convert.

  14. Audacity does not support ASIO out of the box. You can however compile it to include ASIO support, check their site.

     

    You could also try Reaper, it is free to demo.

     

    I don't know what I did but I remember using Audacity with my X3 Pro and HD500 and I'm pretty sure my UX2 also. I don't remember having difficulty but I do remember Audacity finding my devices. It's been a while though maybe something changed. I'm going to have try again, it's been a while. 

     

    I may've compiled my installation of Audacity correctly for my use without even realizing it, lol.

  15. I remember a thread where the user took apart his SJ and found that all he needed to do was wiggle or remove and reinstall some of the wiring connection as if one of them had a bad connection from either heat, maufacturing or heavy vibration. You might want to look into it if you get the inclination too. You probably know the drill "take precautions to prevent zapping yourself into the next life". 

     

    It makes sense to me that with vibration and heat something can come loose or burn in there. I don't regularly work on guitar amplifiers but I worked with very similar stuff and know about mechanics and maufacturing.

     

    I've been pretty fortunate with my Spider Jam as it still works good. I use it to practice and warm up before using my DT50HD. I'm by no means an expert player but have fun with music. If mine had an issue I would be examining the insides with a magnifying glass and try fixing it before I took it apart and used it for a cabinet.

     

    Good luck and hope you get it going.

     

    It wouldn't hurt to write a support ticket or call the techs at Line 6. You never know what they'll say until you ask. Ignore that if you already did.

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