Brazzy

Hey everyone,

 

This is my first time swapping out tubes. I ordered a matched set of EL34's with 24-hour burn in.

 

I put the new tubes in, let it sit in standby for a few minutes, took it off of standby. I measured the bias on V2 and adjusted to 25 mV, I then measured V3 and was reading 35mV. I adjusted it to 25mV and then measured V2 again and it was 15mV.

 

So basically I have a 10mV difference between the 2.

I assume this is not normal. Any way to adjust them independently?

 

As far as I know there is no way to adjust them independently. I did the same thing you did when I had an issue with sound fading off after 15 minutes of play which culminated into no sound all together. All the fuses checked good so I ordered an ultra matched set of EH's and after making the bias setting had 4mV difference and I thought that was abnormal. I was thinking the tubes should read the same but I suppose they don't most of the time.

 

I'm not sure what the bias was new since I wasn't equipped to check it. I had another problem anyway which Line 6 fixed.

Late to the party... I keep reading peoples' comments about the boost on the DT50 not being significant or very usable.  I'm here to tell you that you're all dead wrong.  The boost is outrageously different on compared to off and I just discovered it through the edit software.  I just wish I could control it with a switch.  It's an incredible lead-boost on the DT50.  I freaking love it.  Now show me how to control it!

 

As far as I know it only works when the DT50 low volume mode is off and you can only toggle it on/off. You can control the amps volume with you guitar volume or a pedal. How are you editing the midi with your computer? I use an HD500 via midi cable.

Lol...

 

I second that, Lol..

I was telling my bass player about this discussion and he said: "I laugh at their girly shoulders". :D

 

Spare money - from your mouth to God's ear. :)

 

Good luck with that, right? LOL

I love first world problems...

 

I'm sure this will get remedied right after TV commercials stop knocking me over the back of the couch because they're 15 dB louder than the show I was just watching. Of course the advertising world and the networks deny that this is the case anyway...;)

I was thinking the same thing. The commercials always seem way too loud. So annoying it turns me off making me go out of my way to avoid whatever they're selling, lol.

Put a humbucker in the Strat, and the gain issue with the Plexi would be solved.

I've been meaning to do this with my el cheapo strat.

You need a real midi interface. The Pod is not quite there. The Midisport UNO is popular for this operation.

Have you tried to boost the mic with the trim pot on the back of the pod. Also you can boost it with the mixer for path B. I sometimes use a tube comp for path B before the mixer, also sometimes a distortion of I want it.

Well those went fast.

 

They flew off the shelves. I would've went for one if had more spare money.

Thank you I will read through it then try to hook it up. I looked up the 4 cable method using my amp fx loop but did not get any sound.

 

If you have an FX loop take the L 1/4" analog out from you Pod and plug it into the FX Return on your amp. Set the Pod to Studio/Direct. I usually have the master volume on the Pod turned down and have the master on the amp at around 50% to start with. Then play the guitar and turn up the Pod's master volume. Depending on the amp I might turn the amp's master volume all the way up.

Cool - thanks!

 

Yeah man!

What output mode should i use when connecting my 500x with a Mission Engineering Gemini 2 FRFR cab?

 

https://missionengineering.com/shop-2/products/amplifier/gemini-2/?v=7516fd43adaa

 

Try Studio Direct.

I keep getting thisMaybe it's a good thing, lol.

What about the POD HD bean? Do you know?

I was wondering the same thing.

All quiet in DT world,i'd just thought i'd let you all know,that at least I'm,still alive,hope everybody else is :D .

 

Hello! Still alive here, too  :) and getting ready for Thanksgiving dinner. Got a nice kiss from old man winter last night, lol.

Hi, I've noticed that I can feed pedals with the HD500 cable, my question is.. Can I feed the HD500 and the pedals (at least one) at same time? 

 

Interesting, I've never given it a thought but I suppose you could power low mA pedals daisy chaining with the Pods power supply. What would happen if the power supply was over loaded? Would it burn it up or just shutdown with a kind of breaker.

It's all good. I'm always learning and since most of the time I just use the amp all by itself I need to refresh myself of how to hook up different arrangements. This why I always frequent the forum. I browse for related topics about the amp and pod and see if I can learn or help in some way.

 

I remember the first time I hooked up HD500 via L6 to the DT and I had some trouble getting the tone I wanted so then I just plugged the HD500's L 1/4" analog out into the DT50's FX Return tried the two AMP/LINE switch positions and BAMM! I had way better tone and tried the different output modes for the both but I ended up using Studio Direct into the FX Return. I used that for a while but then I started having amp troubles so in between that I used DT Edit and setup some amp within the DT and used them just plugging the guitar into the preamp of the DT. I tried a few other ways, 4CM and 3 other ways but I always went back into the front and in the end and last thing I did was reset the DT back to factory amp settings and just plug into the front with the guitar.

 

Now I'm getting the urge to try L6 link again, lol, but if I have trouble with setting it up fast I'll probably just plug the HD500's 1/4" analog out into the amps FX Return so I can play for a little while. :D

in fact i have an AES cable and never tried with a traditional xlr.

What's the problem to spend 20$ for a cable for this kind of delicate 1000$ configuration?

You make a good point Marco. When I hear the word "digital" the word "delicate" definitely comes to mind.

Tried again last night with the POD on first. When I flipped power to the amp, all switchable lights flickered on/off. And they stayed off for what seemed like forever. Then they all came on, and this lasted about as long (20 seconds I'd say). Then, with a bit of a flicker, I had only 1 light per switch (which is correct). I flipped standby and it worked normally.

 

While I find this to be scary slow, it could be that perhaps the total time to get operational might be the same. Before, I'd start my amp first, wait for it to initialize everything and find its operational state, then I'd turn on my POD and wait some more while the POD booted and then communicated with my amp. I've always believed that even if none of those switchable parameters were actually going to change due to my HD500, it would still take the same amount of time as if they were changing due to handshaking protocols or whatever.

 

Still thinking about doing a factory reset, though. I think I'll try it one more time as is, and if I still seems unstable, I'll restore the factory settings and see if that helps.

Thanks for your observations. I understand what you mean about the sync time being about the same. If it ain't broke don't worry about it. Time will tell if it's going to be ok.

I was hoping it would've been more like the Spider Jam in that respect.

It's cool that they can be recorded via USB.

I thought you were using DT Edit.  You just set up your 2 channels and put it away, then?  I still haven't played with it.  I think I downloaded it but for some reason never completed the mission.  I like my POD, I guess that's why.

 

Yeah, used DT Edit a while ago to program some amps in it and played around with it for a while like that and then I wanted the original set and did the reset but keep in mind this was back around when I was sending my DT to Line 6 'cause if issues with the transformer, etc. Sometimes I even get lost with what I do unless I write it in my notebook, lol.

 

I like my HD500 too and now that I've got experience with it I'll likely never sell it. Same with the DT50.

Thanks for the handy clip!  Yes, this is the factory reset.  I could be wrong, but I believe doing this will wipe away the firmware update, leaving me to later re-install it via MIDI and Monkey.

 

I'm pretty sure I've done this before and all it did was reset the programmed amps back to the way it was from the factory. So all the controls would work they way they did from the store. I don't think it reinstalls the original firmware. Don't take my word on that though as it's been a while. This is going to make me drag that amp out and hook up via midi & DT Edit again, lol.

Hey Brazzy!

 

A factory reset?  I hate that on accounta I hate ta hafta read up on how to hook up MIDI all over again (to subsequently reinstall the latest firmware update).  However, your suggestion is most excellent!!!  Thanks!!!

 

Hey man, I was referring to reset where you hold the 2 switches together while powering up. You know the simple one. Not the complicated one. :)

 

See my attachment. I really don't know if it will help.

Well, this is an ongoing thing now.  FYI, with power to the HD500 off, the DT should not see it, and the L6 LINK should be invisible as well, correct?  So I first threw the power switch (still in standby) and watched carefully as all switchable lights flickered on then off within a fraction of a second.  And they stayed off.  I threw the power switch back off, unplugged my amp, plugged it back in, tried it again, and this time all switchable lights came on and stayed on.  

 

("all switchable lights" includes all 4 voice lights, both chnl A & B lights, both triode and pentode lights, and both the class A and class AB lights--i.e. every single light that can be in either on or off state when power is applied.)

 

I tried it a 3rd time and it operated normally (I think):  All lights came on, then a few seconds later only 1 light per switch was illuminated.  I turned on my HD500 and played as normal.

 

Following suggestion here, I am going to have my HD500 on when I turn on the DT and when I turn it off and see if this makes a difference.  I will not change any settings on the POD unless the amp is also on.

 

That's sounds strange. Have you tried to reset the DT and then try what the manual describes? I got to try mine out again soon. Lately I always just use the amp by itself.