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Posts posted by Brazzy

  1.     I don't play everyday, but when I do it's for about an hour or two. I rarely run it with the Master Volume past 12 O'clock as with the Channel Volume, for now.


        I'm gearing up to get Biasing tools so I can be able to check and/or set it when the time comes for power tubes to be replaced. Any comments or recommendations are always helpful.


         If the fuse blows what should I replace it with, (value)? I haven't taken it out to look it over. I hope I don't need to but ya never know, it pays to try to be prepared.



    I found this info pertaining to what to look for just before it come time to service the amp with new tubes. There's a lot more to the article. If you want to read it all click the link below.


    Tube Frequently Asked Questions

    Replace the tubes when:
    * It is broken, and/or there is a white spot on the top or sides of the tube. The "getter" coating found in these areas is normally black or silver colored. By the way, a chocolate brown getter simply means the tube has had a lot of use. It still may test good.
    * It tests weak or shorted. Always use a "mutual conductance" type tube tester for testing. Cheap emission type testers with "good/bad" meters are almost useless. Always replace a shorted tube, even if it tests good. Shorts can damage expensive amplifier parts.
    * You cannot afford to lose your amplifier during a performance. Professional players minimize downtime by replacing the power tubes every few concerts, and by using several amplifiers. The price of tubes is cheap compared to the embarrassment of losing an amplifier on stage!
    * The amplifier starts to sound bad, especially when first turned on.
    So how do you know when tubes are starting to fail? Consider the following:

    Small-signal (preamp) tubes (12AX7, 12AU7, 12AT7, 5879, etc.): You may hear a crackle for a short time after the amplifier is turned on. Then it quiets down. Or the amplifier may "howl" at high volumes, or buzz on certain notes all the time. These problems get worse, and eventually you will be replacing one or more tubes.

    Power tubes (6L6, 6V6, 7027, 6CA7/EL-34, 6550/KT-88, etc.): Upon turning on the amplifier, the sound may be hazy, with flabby bass and scratchy treble. After about five minutes of this, the sound starts to clear up, and the amplifier sounds fine from then on. As the tubes get weaker, it will take longer for the sound to clear up. Eventually you have to replace the power tubes as a set. For reliability we strongly encourage you to replace all power tubes at a time, even if one or more tubes are still good. Also, make sure your technician set the bias correctly after they are installed. You may keep any good tubes as spares for emergencies, though.

    © Doug Roccaforte

    This article is written by Doug from Roccaforte Amps and was posted at the Harmony-Central Forums and was used for this site without his explicit permission.

  2. I've been playing around with the HD500 running Stack Front into a DT50 Head. I haven't tried the Line 6 Link yet, but I can fun effects after the mixer this way and it really sounds good with the Amp set clean. I don't understand why you cant put a reverb after the amp model, it really needs to be there?


    Whoops, I found another thread you made here.

  3. that boost is really for the internal amp/preamp interaction, and not really supposed to be accessed as a "boost"

    it was always there and was setup as on/off based on the real amp/model that was selected.


    I don't think I would have figured that anytime soon, lol. Thanks

  4. Brazzy, with the hd500 you can only send one cc message at a time, wich gets kind of limited, but that's maybe what i'm going for, using the 4 cable method...


    For those that don't have a pod, with the new firmware, how do you select 30 different amps on the amp?


    Good to know as I haven't tried it yet with HD500. I'm not sure how well it works but I'm going to give DT EDIT a try, just for a test run.

  5. Oh Yeah, Don't forget if you have the HD500 you can use that to send MIDI to the DT's also. I'm looking to learn about using an iPhone or iPod for MIDI just to have options and expand my knowledge, iPhones & iPods are lighter and easier to carry than computers.



    But one can use the new features to reduce DSP load on the Pods by programming and selecting reverbs on the DT.

    This is only theory for me (I have never tried that although the doc says it should work). It seems pretty involved to do so (via MIDI control from Pod) and may not be worth the trouble.


    I believe your right about the reduced DSP load on the POD.

  6. if i think about it i'll give it a try later today.

    I have an ipad 1 and an ipad 3.

    you can always use touchosc if you need to, pretty sure i used that on the older ipad.

    i think its like a 4.99 app though, capable of more... if that interests you... i'm all about the simple though.


    Awesome, I'll keep my eyes peeled for what you find out, and again thanks for the "touchosc" tip. I'm all about simple too, at least I like to that, LOL.

  7. I had the HD500 sometime before I acquired the DT50 Head and I was blown away by the tone also. Love this thing. I'm on the road to learning about using MIDI to send commands to it in order to change amps and other functions that are with the 2.0 update.



    I know everybody says it sounds the same, and maybe it does, but that feel and response I get from the amp alone it's just not there, so I'm considering using the amp as a 2 channel amp and use the pod hd500 only as an effects unit. I just wanted to know if there's anybody who can relate to this.



    I haven't noticed this lack of feel and response, keep in mind I'm using the DT50 Head. I didn't notice anything bad after I updated the DT50 Head, only good.

    • Upvote 1
  8. Maybe the people who made those tones deleted them.


    ADDED: I just did a search for a tone I just uploaded and the search engine didn't work. Just to back you up.


    New problem: Tones are gone or Search engine is shot. When I do a search for Kiss or Van Halen or Yngwie Malmsteen it just keeps saying No tones found. They're all gone.

  9. yes works fine.. there is a DT50 customizer app... 3rd party.


    keep in mind you cant use it to do the update though...


    Thanks TRZ, I emailed the DT Customizer people to ask if the app will work with my iPad (original) the one that won't update past Version 5.1.1 'cause their info says it needs Version 6.0 or higher. I was wondering if this were the case why wouldn't they say "iPad 2" instead of just "iPad". If it works with my iPad I'm on it. I understand about the update issue so I already accomplished that with the proper tool.

  10.    Can the MIDI Mobilizer II be used to send Commands to the DT50 in order to take advantage of the new update? If so how does it work?


       I've been searching and found this:


       I might be needing an app.


       I ended up getting the DT Customizer for iPhone 4, 'cause it won't work on the original iPad witch only updates to 5.1.1. The DT Customizer customer service verified it won't work as well as "The Real Zap".

  11. Dudes, i put in




    And sounds a bit great, more sounds like a real guitar, more strong. I'll test now with the drummer.


    But, a think that i dont understood, i build this scenario:


    AMP: Blackface Dbl Nrm Pre

    Dist: Screamer


    But, i dont listen the screamer, or other dist. The sounds mixed amp+screamer but don't stay good, are horrible. Faul some configs in screamer?



    help plzz


       Try using Combo Front Instead of Combo Power Amp. Try out the Patches in the last post. I was messing around with this patch today, maybe you want to try it too. Just a heads up this patch is a bit more complex than just a Screamer and Amp. Hope it helps.


       Here's an explanation of what I did with it:

    I was playing around trying to learn and made this patch. Try it anyway you like. Maybe start out with all the effects off except the reverb then turn on FS1, then turn that off then turn on FS2, turning on the U-Vibe and Delay with each one. Then try all them on at the same time. FS1 turns on/off the first 2 effects at the same time, FS2 turns on/off the next 2 effects at the same time. FS3 turns on/off the U-Vibe & Delay at the same time. FS7 turns on/off the Reverb. Remember more than likely you'll have to tweak the controls.

    My rig constisted of an Ibanez AS Series AS73 Acoustic Electric Guitar into the HD500 set to Stack Front, PAD on, 1/4" lines out set to AMP with the Master at full open. The 1/4" left (Mono) out going into the Low Input on the front a DT50 Head.  The DT50's Channel A was set to Drive, Bass,Mid,Treble and Volume were all at 12 O'clock. The Presence & Reverb were Off. Topology was set to I, Pentode, Class A, and the Master Volume was set to !2 O'clock in the 50 Watt Mode. The 16 Ohm out on the back of the DT50 is going into a Jet City JCA12S+ wich is open backed with a 100watt, 12", 16 Ohm Eminence speaker. Sounded good.


  12.    Cool, glad to hear your getting something good. Don't give up 'cause if you keep trying I'm sure you'll find tones worth playing.


    I just changed the way I'm building tones a little bit and am finding new and different variations of what I had been using before. Using the latest flash update 2.10 and set the Mode to Combo Front, Focus to 670hz, and Low & Highs to -50. Then I set the patch like Meambobo's Guide suggested. Setting up the patch in path A, muting path B and panning path A to center.


    Then I put Mod, Delay and Reverb after the mixer and have Input 1 source set to Guitar and Input 2 source set to Variax. The guitar in Z is set to Auto. Usually I use the Dynamics and Distortions before the amp in Path A. The PAD/Normal switch next to the pedal is set to PAD but sometimes I switch it depending on the guitar I use. Also the 1/4" Line/Amp switch next to the pedal is set to Amp.


    I use Amp Pre's often unless I use the Studio Direct into Headphones and/or use the XLR into the Spider Jam Mic section sometimes I use the Aux input on the Spider Jam. I've even tried using the Headphones out on the HD500 into the MP3/CD input on the Spider Jam witch sounded good also. I usually do not use a Cab model so that's set to "No Cab". Most of the time the amp volume is almost full open and tweak the drive turning the volume down if needed. The Master Volume is full open and I always set a volume pedal at the end of the chain.


    With the Spider Jam I normally go guitar in, set the Amp to a clean channel. The Drive knob to 12 O'clock, the Tone stack knobs to 12 O'clock, Channel Volume to 12 O'clock, No effects, and the Master to 12 O'clock.


    This is how I set up a basic distortion patch. Here's what it looks like.





       I can share tones with you but there's a good chance they won't sound the way I intended them to sound, you'll more than likely end up tweaking them.


       I was playing around with this one today check it out. Don't forget you may have to tweak it and don't be upset if you don't like it, we all have different tastes at different times and none of it is "Set in Stone".


       Here's a patch I made with the Amp you were trying to use. I did this with cheap headphones but in the modes I talked about earlier, Try this Tone. Pictures below show you the settings.




  13. I have done that. It matches up very well. I have since used the HD500 tuner to make minor adjustments to intonation, with good results. Probably not exact if you put a strobe on it, but close enough for me not to notice anything badly out of tune up and down the neck.

    Haven't taken any of my guitars to a Luthier and I make all the necessary adjustments myself. I just make sure that all of the notes ("all") are as close as possible using the HD500, X3Pro, and Spider Jam tuners. People around me say it sounds awesome and it sounds great to me. That's all I need to know.

  14. I don't think you can turn it off, usually I just tap it down to 30 or so, doesn't bother me but I guess you could cover it up somehow with a piece of vinyl or dark cloth of some kind. If I find out how to turn it off I'll let you know.

  15. I looked at the screen shot of your patch, but I would also need a screenshot of the Pre-Amp settings. I very rarely use a noise gate. Have you tried your Meteoro's Gain control at about 9 O'clock or lower? If you need it there must be a lot of noise, maybe due to a high drive level on the HD500. Also what are your guitar controls set at? Usually I set my patches with the guitars volume control in the middle position so I can turn it up or down while playing and the tone control full open. Some people set their patches with them both full open, both ways work well as I've tried them. I hope you get something from my ideas since I find it difficult to explain these things like this.


    Maybe try this:

    • Make sure HD500 set-up is set to Combo Amp and that the Lows & Highs option are both set to FLAT (the lows & highs not as important) I like them set to FLAT. I think this option lets you cut frequencies and focus on frequencies.
    • Make sure the switch next to the pedal of the HD500 marked 1/4" out is set to AMP.
    • Start out by setting your guitar controls to full open then plug direct into your amp and dial in a clean setting (no dirt) while your strumming the guitar (hard enough that you know it should be loud) using say the G Major chord. Turn the amp off.
    • With the Amp set like that unplug your guitar and plug in the HD500 and guitar. With the HD500 Master Volume turned down power up the HD500, if it isn't already, then power up your amp.
    • Try using a blank patch first and strumming the same way as before while slowly turning up the HD500 Master Volume to a level you like. The sound should be clean.
    • Now you can add the Pre-Amp you like to your patch. Then test the sound (by strumming), if the volume is low turn the drive down and the amp volume up, adjust till you get a good loud clean tone. After that I add drive slowly (and decrease amp volume as needed) 'till I get the level of dirt I want all while I'm strumming at a high level to test my sound. This always works for me.

    Hope this helps. I know I ask a lot questions but it's the only way I can understand what's going with your set-up. Remember the more info, screenshots and such will help others help you find the right path.


    Added: underlined and bold type.

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