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texasdave

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Posts posted by texasdave

  1. Well, I was enjoying 2.8 for a day. Tonight I went to adjust a parameter with the #4 knob and the setting changed about 10% and that was it. Knob no longer controls value up or down.  The push push/hold functions still work, but knob appears dead. 

    Did the full factory reset, no change.  I rolled back to 2.71, no change.  Back to 2.8, Reset no change.

    I'm guessing it's hardware and a coincidence to the 2.8 upgrade.  I thought I'd post here in case anyone else has similar issues,  I'll test again tomorrow

    Edited to add: I restarted Helix with switches 4&5 pressed down. If you select UI mode using the joystick you can test your switches and knobs. Screen starts all red, and each listed parameter will turn green after it tests as functional. My "encoder 4" appears to be dead.

    ui_test.jpg

  2. Hey gang,

    I'm posting this looking for some clarification on OSX drivers.   Based on my reading (and looking at the software downloads section) 1.0.5 was an optional driver for Floor users, required for Stomp, and supported through OSX Mohave.

    The wording for 1.0.7 (released July 18th 2019 is "Helix Mac Driver 1.0.7 is a required update to support Helix Firmware 2.80 or greater. It supports the following sample rates: 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, 88.2 kHz, and 96 kHz."  and at the bottom of the notice only indicates support/compatibility through "High Sierra," not Mohave.  

    So two points for clarification: 
    1.  is the omission of Mohave in 1.0.7 a typo?
    2.  Is the driver still optional but recommended for 2.8/Floor or is it now mandatory?   No mention of it in the 2.8 update instructions and it's not installed by the updater.  

    I'm probably going to install it and use it going forward, but as a guy trying to actually RTFM to get to the right answer, I found the above points confusing.  I'm mainly looking for an "official" or "educated" response, so please no guessing, I can do that on my own ;)



    Texasdave

  3. 2.11 was a smooth update for me in OSX.  My recommendation for Mac users is to back up set lists, patches, etc with old editor, then go to Applications and drag that Line 6 folder to the trash, then run the  new updater/editor pkg file.  You never have to wonder if you're going to open the wrong editor that way.

  4. I've done testing on that, too. It does not seem to matter whether or not it has multiple assignments. It happens on presets with split paths, single paths, single assignments, multiple assignments... but so far, only presets saved to setlist 3. For what it's worth, I have completed reloaded that setlist and rebooted the Helix so it would rebuild it, same problem.

     

     

    I had that problem in 2.10, but I can't honestly remember if "my" setlist was in Setlist 3 or not.  I used to not use 3, but may have on last update.  I could also get the display to return to correct state by pressing the HOME button.  So far I'm fine in 2.11 but I put "my" setlist in 4, just as matter of preference; I read this thread afterwards.

     

    EDITED TO ADD:  I copied a preset that has been updated in 2.11 from Setlist 4 to 3 and that patch in Setlist 3 seems to be working fine.    Good luck to all chasing this down.

  5. The other idea that could reasonably fix the problem would be to do a final restart holding FS 10 & 11.  which is supposed to update user presets to current firmware.  I know the reboot is supposed to do that, but IIRC there was a prior update where this solved some problems.

     

    I'm not sure I've saved anything in snapshots other than maybe a test file, so I may not be the best crash test dummy.  

  6. If I want to use the editor on my PC,  I have to start first the Helix then after the boot is finisht then I start up my PC

    with the USB cable.connected. .(This is the right order for me)

     

    When I first boot up my PC and then the Helix. with the USB cable connected,  then the editor does not recognize the Helix.

     

    this has always been with every FW update

     

    This is often the best course of action on a Windows based machine.  Always fun when "plug and play" isn't.

  7.   Kinda same issue here. Updated to 2.01 fine. Powered Helix off for a while. Now my PC doesn't recognize Helix. Tired ALL avenues.  Grrrr

    Frustrating, no doubt.  Hate to even ask, have you rebooted PC?

  8. This is interesting.........it seems few of you had the issue I had with the 2.0 update.  This probably comes from trying impedance matching to my guitar.  As I had done that pre 2.0 update, when I updated the impedance is now per patch rather than global.  I can see how that makes sense as you might be using totally different instruments for different patches.  So its a long term gain.  But as I had set it as a global, I had to modify every patch.  Then comes snapshots - yes, another gain - but it took 2 days (about 4 hours each) before I was feeling like I was set up to play a gig again.  And after a rehearsal, I know some of my settings still need work - yes, its unavoidable - things sound different at high volume and getting sounds that cut through the mix takes time.  So that little impedance thing has cost a lot of time - if it didn't do that for you guys, you are lucky! (or maybe you didn't dig that deep to begin with?)

    Regarding updates - come on guys - its a computer - are you seeing all the people who didn't update their editor or reset and reload their patches?  It's not fair to say silly people should have read all the stuff properly - the updates are cumbersome and require you do do a sequence of events correctly - what's wrong with Line 6 writing a decent update utility that does that all in a foolproof way?  

    I expect that level of coding in the world today - why don't you?  You expect it on your iPhone.

    And thank you phil_m - your suggestion for IRs is a good one and I'll use it - something Line 6 could implement by default too - then we wouldn't need to think about it.

    Don't get me wrong - its a great box - but there are too many rough edges in the software/hardware for my liking.  I know really good players who couldn't deal with it.  And that's a pity.  Push to make it better!  Those installation notes covered in warnings -  I'd call that unprofessional.

     

     

    Regarding impedance, there was an issue in 2.0 where a saved value of impedance would DISPLAY but not actually LOAD. (best guess is the impedance was either 1M or Auto.)  This was made apparent by a user who needed to use a 10k input for a particular guitar (so very noticeable.)  This has been fixed in 2.01 (at least to my testing.)  On that notion alone I'd think the upgrade to 2.01 is worth doing.

     

    Texasdave

     

     

     

     

    Texasdave

  9. So if I do this it will keep all my snapshots and all the input impedances I've just laboriously fixed after 2.0 upgrade and all my IRs won't be lost/need reinstalling?

    Back up.  Back Setlists Up.  Back up your favorite presets. THEN begin.

     

    The good news is now the input impedances you save will actually load when you call up the preset!

     

    Texasdave

  10. http://line6.com/support/topic/21274-part-3-in-the-series-on-the-helix-now-uploaded/

     

    Watch his video do exactly what he does and you will be pleasantly surprise how good that these presets sound and they are so very simple,

     

    And definitely has other suggested use your BX fives directly from your helix to get an idea of how it really sounds I do think that you will be pleased with the help of the settings after the video these sound good with a couple different guitars even won I won at Six Flags that was a very cheesy Strat version

     

    I haven't watched those yet but definitely going to.  I just hit that link and randomly jumped forward to around 4mins, and he was talking about taking away some of those higher frequencies that wind up harsh (even painful) through a PA.  I'm definitely in that camp.  Thanks for mentioning those.

     

    Texasdave

  11. Some great tips, thanks. I like the idea of the compressor after the cab as perhaps a limiter, I will have to give this a try. Overall I prefer my compression before the cab and as a matter of fact as early in the signal chain as possible. I usually place it right after any pitch shifter, wah, touch-wah, vibe, or phaser type effects and before the amp/cab. My other mod effects - chorus, delays, reverbs and such go after the amp/cab.

     

     

    Start with just an amp model and that LA Studio compressor and you'll probably see the logic behind it in about 30 seconds.  Transparent and tasty.  It doesn't mean you won't still have use for the one early in your chain as well.

  12. If you're recording with Helix, the very first thing I'd do is turn off the Global EQ.

    That's more applicable to live use, where you're trying to compensate for the way PA/monitor speakers are coloring the sound.

     

    • Start with a totally empty preset.
    • Add an Amp/Cab model.  Choose one that suits the style of music you play.
    • I like to use a high-pass filter prior to the amp... then use an EQ post amp to put some "thump" back.  This tightens up the bottom end.
    • Add a reverb block... and tweak it to where it sound good
    • If you don't like the sound, try changing the cab or the mic.  This has a huge effect

    Now, spend some time playing your guitar and tweaking the various amp settings.

    If you'd just bought a Marshall JVM-410 head, you'd have to go thru this same process.

    Tweak the various parameters until you like the sound.

     

    FWIW, When I bought a JVM-410 head, the first couple of days I thought about returning it.

    It didn't instantly "wow" me.

    After several days of dialing in the amp settings (to work with my guitars/cab), the JVM sounded much better.    :)

     

    Just adding to the above, the LA Studio Compressor was the game-changer for me.  On anything clean/low-to-mid gain I have found the LA Studio Compressor AFTER the amp/cab to be "the secret sauce"  I usually run the Emphasis +/- 2 (the higher the number the less emphasis bass notes have on triggering the compressor}  then sweet spot the Peak/Reduction for the feel I'm looking for.  I usually run it in limit mode.  For an SRV sound with the big clean blooming low end, I'll move the emphasis up closer to 5, so that those big single open low E notes don't get squashed.  Clean Deluxe: Emphasis 1.7 Peak/Reduction 5.6 or so.  Lower Peak# more dynamics, Higher number more "squish."  Level knob in there handy as well.    If there is other compression in the chain (either via compressor or OD/Amp compression)  it's less crucial  I'll typically reduce the Peak/Reduction and just leave it in place as an overall limiter.

     

    Live the sound guys LOVE it.  You tell them in advance that you have a limiter on the patch and they can prob remove any compression from the channel to start.  

    My 2 cents,

     

    Texasdave

    • Upvote 2
  13. not using editor right now, but helix standalone I can't duplicate what you have.  As mentioned above, if you move to the split block does it give you the option to delete that block when you press "Action?"  

    If you disconnect from computer and load the patch are the results the same?  Maybe add a block in there and delete it? 

    You may have tried all that, but I just built a patch using the same general blocks you have and couldn't get mine to that state.

     

    Texasdave

  14. The Ebtech units are pretty affordable and worth keeping in your bag of spares.   In a perfect world, a ground loop issue wouldn't exist if both units are plugged into the same outlet and not connected to anything else.  the 4cm seems to offer more "joy"  and something like the Ebtech is probably worth a shot.   Not to speak against the Lehle unit above, but the Ebtech is about 1/3 the price (and has 2 channels.)  

  15. Just move any blocks you want to keep back to main path and delete any you don't. once the "B" path is empty it goes away.

     

    See page 16 Helix 2.0 manual (This section on paths is worth the read.)

     

    Removing Parallel Path BTo remove path B, simply clear any blocks on path B (lower) or move them all back up to path A (upper).

  16. I don't have the tools rea to measure input impedance and I don't know what it's defaulting to, but prob still close to 1M or Auto.  If you have to have it, snapshot or assigning a footswitch to it near-term is probably the most elegant solution.  Now we know it's in the "FIX" box.  

    As to the fuzz you mention above,  in theory if fuzz is the first block in your patch, the "Auto" should put you at the correct impedance…once we know that Auto is loading ;)

  17. Yep.  I saved in every snapshot.  All 8 snapshots are fine.

     

    Dennis

     

     

    Thanks for the idea.  However, I tried both ways.  Using guitar is the only way you can get to the Guitar in-Z value anyway.

     

    Dennis

     

    Got the Helix fired up this morning.   The Guitar IN-Z can be accessed in Guitar or Multi (which includes guitar)

     

    I did the snapshot save.  However, when I load the patch I have the same issue (displays 10k but doesn't set impedance there.) As soon as I select any snapshot (including the snapshot that loads in saved state,) the impedance is then correct.  So if i save 10k on snapshot 2 and save the patch, when i select the patch it loads with snapshot 2 and  displays 10k, but it's not actually 10k until I select snapshot 2 (or another.)

     

    I have Guitar IN-Z selected in the snapshots controller, and have same results with either guitar input or Multi.

     

    So, as far as I can tell, 1 extra footswitch tap after you load the patch gets you where you want to be, which is probably workable until the bug is fixed.

     

    Texasdave

     

     

    Texasdave

  18. Sounds like you're chasing it down.  If I recall, you can save a patch on a snapshot other than 1.  Save patch with snapshot 2 selected and see if your results above are the same.  If so, then the input impedance is not loading with the patch but works fine once the state is changed.

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