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Posts posted by xmacvicar

  1. 3 minutes ago, themetallikid said:

    Space on the unit is good for me....roughly:


    2) ....Setlist of 'Stock' presets organized in a 'live' manor.  Usually have it setup for banks of 8 presets.  Presets arranged so that each bank shows 4 rhythm on the bottom and 4 lead versions of those rhythms on the top. 

    3) ....This bank I have set up as presets on the up/down, and showing 4 snaps on the bottom, and 4 stomps on the top row. 



    Ok cool. Since these settings are global, I assume you are going down to the helix and changing the behaviour between those 2 scenarios? 

  2. We all know the helix is limited to the certain number of setlist folders.


    Just curious if there are many players who have multiple folders OUTSIDE of the Helix (on a computer, etc) that they swap or load when needed? 


    Or does the space on the unit suffice?

  3. On 8/5/2017 at 2:23 PM, PeterHamm said:

    No, don't bother trying to mess with digital connections to connect to a PA, even if it has Digital Ins. Too much can go wrong with digital signals in that environment.

    XLR out to the mixer (WITH PHANTOM POWER OFF) or 1/4" out to Direct Box to mixer is the way to go.


    @PeterHamm when running your 1/4 out to a DI box, then to FOH, is your 1/4 out on the Helix set to mic level?

  4. 57 minutes ago, DunedinDragon said:


    In spite of what some people claim, there is no discernible difference in having your Helix master volume knob dimed.  I would probably say most of us don't do such a thing.  Lots of people cite arcane technical reasons, but I'd hazard to guess that in double blind test no one would ever be able to consistently pick out a Helix with it's big knob dimed and one that wasn't.  The Helix isn't that complicated.  Use your ears, dial in the tone that works for you and play guitar....and stop worrying about minutiae that has no bearing on your tone.



    Thanks. I am for the first time getting into patch leveling using a DAW (Logic Pro X). I am a bit stumped though from reading past posts and whatnot. I have one patch, which is a Brit 2204, input pad is OFF, channel volume is on 9.0 and am I barely hitting -14DB on the track input metering/faders. I mean, channel volume of 9.0 is pretty much at the max. I would expect a channel vol this high would register a much higher reading than -14db

  5. @HonestOpinion I tracked this post down as I'm now at a cross roads with how I use volume on my helix. Up until now I leave my L3m on unity (0) and just control overall volume with helix big knob. This a roughly always been 3 pm on my big knob in conjunction with my current channel volumes. 


    but I have been reading other forum posts that say you should dime the big knob ( for best signal to noise ratio ) and build your patches this way but this would mean turning down the volume of my l3m speakers below unity gain otherwise I'll blow my windows out. 


    So ultimately is one way better than the other?

  6. Hey folks,


    I have a helix floor and two L3m's up on stands. They are setup in my stereo image (L and R). Both are set to be exact same unity gain level on the back.


    No matter what I do, it sounds like my "right" L3m is so much louder than my left. My patch(s) are always 100% panned center and I can never figure out what is up. If on the output block I pan hard left to -23, it starts to sound perfectly balanced (my right ear is sore!). Can someone tell me what may be happening? Attached patch for reference.

    D. Theater SDS.hlx

  7. @phil_m I have two L3Ms that I run in stereo with my Helix over l6 link. To keep things stereo, does everything in my patch need to be a stereo block?


    Now I do mono distortion before amp, and then everything after the amp in series or parallel is a stereo block (delays, reverb, etc)

  8. So I have a Helix floor and I go digital out to a pair of L3m's that are linked - so the left is speaker "1" and the right is speaker "2".


    I have these positioned perfectly left and right, facing towards me. Please note that I do not gig out live, and I my position from these speakers never changes.


    When I make presets I have been using all 'stereo' blocks (even OD's). Is this even correct? I am looking to basically create my presets in a way that is the most feature rich; basically, if I ever do get out gigging that it will sound good and not be un optimized - given that most clubs would be mono sounds and I won't have to recreate every single preset for mono.


    In my current setup, is this even true stereo? What should I be doing? Is it only true stereo if in the patch, I am using splits in the patches that pan to 100% L/R? Or do stereo blocks with digital linked L3M's automatically work stereo?

  9. Poop I missed this.


    I backed up my full thing and then ran the 2.30 update. Then immediately restored not thinking about the stock presets. If I wanted to do this right, i'd have to wipe the helix again and then run the backup as suggested above:only restore the user setlists and Global Settings.... it's in the options for restore.



  10. Thanks for the update. A new Helix... That explains why you forgot about the FHFX. Most understandable. But if you have time I have 3 questions:

    1) Did this problem only occur with your custom AC30 preset - or did it happen with others as well?

    2) Have you tried importing your original AC30 preset and testing it after using the Helix tuner (I'm not sure if importing from FHFX is actually possible), or have you created a similar preset to test on the Helix.

    3) What were the settings of your custom AC30 preset. I'd like to test it myself.


    I own three L6 boards (XTLive, HD500X, FHFX) and am documenting quirks/bugs.

    Thanks... and enjoy your Helix.✔ï¸

    This happened repeatedly across numerous patches - ones I downloaded from cloud, ones I created myself, ones I rebuilt myself, etc. The issue is definitely there and well documented in this forum and other places (FB FHFX group, etc)

  11. So... What happened? It's not productive to start a thread and just leave it hanging. Did L6 replace your FHFX? Did that resolve the issue?

    I'm sure many of us would like to know.

    I moved onto the Helix. l6 never fixed this and as far as I know is still a bug.

  12. Ok I think i have this figured...my scenario 1 is perfectly fine and 'intended'...i see in a past post you wrote


    "If you're just using Helix you can use L6 Link and daisy chain the 2nd speaker from the first. The problem arises when you connect something to the 2nd speaker and want to also hear it from the 1st speaker."


    I have no intentions of adding anything to the second speaker, so I should proceed with this.

  13. I just did test. I would hate to say this but I think you are wrong here.


    Scenario 1 - digital out from Helix into the L6 Link In on speaker 1 - daisy chain from L6 out to second speaker - this results in BEAUTIFUL back and forth crazy delays that are clearly very separate, very much left and right separation. It also sounds way louder and seems to have way more headroom.


    Scenario 2 - XLR L out of the helix into the analog line input of the L3m speaker 1. This will cause the speaker to say L. I then take the L6 link OUT of this speaker into the L6 Link in of L3m speaker 2. This causes the speakers to read L and R respectively, however there is no longer any 'true' stereo separation...it sounds summed to mono. Im assuming this is because I am only coming out of the XLR L out of the helix? This is the only configuration I can do to make the speakers read L and R. This does not sound better than scenario 1 listed about.


    If I am wrong about this, can you please clearly type out how the helix should connect to two L3m for a true stereo, bidirectional configuration? I would greatly appreciate it!

  14. I use the same setup with 2 L3t and have no problems re: stereo. The reason they show 1 and 2 instead of L and R is that they are not operating as a stereo pair for all inputs although the L6 Link In signal is routed in stereo. Other potential inputs are not.


    This setup is not as flexible as connecting the speakers together in a bi-directional L6 Link manner in which case they will be shown as L and R. Connect Helix to one of the speaker's rear panel analog inputs. This method will allow you to use all the analog inputs in both speakers and have full stereo. The setup you describe does not permit inputs from speaker #2 to be heard in both speakers; the signal from these inputs can't get to speaker #1 because it's L6Link In is already in use by Helix.


    Wow. I have no idea what you just said haha. I thought if you had a L3m or L3t the idea was to use a singular AES/EBU from the helix to the first L3m and then daisy chain via the L6 link out to the other one. Even the Helix manual states:


    L6 LINK provides easy, reliable, one-cable connectivity between Helix and Line 6 StageSource monitors
    Are you saying I should just run the XLR L from the Helix to the left L3m and then run the XLR R from the Helix to the second? I tried this last night, still did not indicate L and R on the monitors. Also as an aside, using my L6 link technique from the helix, i was able to use a stereo delay and it sounded to very stereo to me with left and right signals bouncing around.

  15. I have my Helix floor connected to a L6 L3m via the L6 Link output on the helix; this first L3m is also running the L6 link out to a second L3m for a stereo pair setup. All documentation says that the L6 link will auto recognize and put the speakers in L and R mode, with L and R indicated on the back panel of the stagesource L3m. Mine only display 1 and 2. This doesn't change if I enter any of the other playback modes. Any advice? Is 1 and 2 the same as L and R?

  16. i had an issue today where I deleted my IR's from Helix and then reimported them (different file names, working on a different management system that makes more sense) but the Helix presets didn't point to 'slot 17" it just said empty. I was under the impression this was not supposed to happen.

  17. I'm not an expert by any means, but I was able to clear my squeak by taking the back plate off and using dry lube carefully on the main bolt. I sprayed while moving the pedal back and forth and was lucky enough to have cleared it. I did it a few months back and have not heard a squeak since. I have used it regularly since Jan 2016 and have only had to do that once. I'm not sure if it's the most effective or safest way to do it, but it was easy enough.


    I just took the back off to expose the internals. I backed off on the pedal bolt so that it started to separate from the nut you see when the back is removed. Once it started separating a little bit, I was able to slide a knife (or any metal flat edge) into both sides with a bit of white lithium grease. I worked the pedal back and forth and then retightened the pedal. Seems fine! I hope it lasts

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