dboomer

Switch it over to RF1 mode and that problem should go away. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/live-sound/relay-digital-wireless/rf1rf2-mode-switching-frequencies-r130

Probably not a good practice most times. In the mixer FBS filters are dropped onto the specific channel that is feeding back and is problematic. But when triggered in the speaker that filter is imposed on everything going through the speaker. In almost all cases there would be no audible difference but you are carving out material that does not need to be carved out. Generally speaking, if you've trigger even half of the available filters in the mixer there is almost nothing else to be gained in a practical sense at this point. So the thought that you are somehow adding additional filters isn't likely to be of any benefit.

The scan function is only necessary when you run in RF2 mode. It is not necessary in RF1 mode so if you are in RF1 mode (which I recommend you try first) you can just disregard it.

No. The "all mute" button is hardware on the mixer. The idea is if the firmware failed somehow then the firmware may not be able to shut down the system.

Try running with V75>V75>V70 with terminator. Although you may use consecutive Line6 channels, they are never side by side as consecutive Wi-Fi channels are. Also there is no corolation between L6 and Wi-Fi channel numbers.

You may have a defective unit. Will your dealer simply swap it for you?

You will need one complete system for vocals and one for your guitar (same as with any wireless systems).

What mode are you operating in? I recommend RF1 mode first. Are all units operating in the same mode? (a must) Do you maintain constant line of sight between transmitters and receiver's antennas? Please describe your antenna setup and connections.

My understanding is that Apple Express cannot have the 2.4G shut off so you are likely still running 2.4G along with 5G at the same time. If you've found a way to shut it off please let us know. So first I would recommend running all systems in RF1 mode. 1. How close is your apple express to the antennas of your receivers? 2. Are you using the antenna throughputs to connect the receivers or separate antennas? 3. Do you have the antenna outs for the V70 receiver terminated. 4. In your outdoor example is your airport express also OFF? 5. Are you maintaining constant line of sight between the transmitters and the receivers?

Have you switched over to RF1 operation?

While I have never done it, I believe you can. But you will need to be able to format the drive as FAT32 which will require a special program for your computer.

Well if you've had two different transmitters do this it is likely the problem isn't the transmitters. I would need a lot more information to try to solve your problem. Did the problem happen in the same venue or different venues. When you get a drop are you also seeing a red LED on the RF ladder? Do you have clear line of sight? Have you tried different channels? At what distance did the drop occur?

You CANNOT shut the 2.4G section with Apple Express. Try using a Belkin N600.

In the router, not in the iPad. You cannot shut off the 2.4 in an Airport express

All of the TBP12 transmitter have the ability to switch between high and low power and to name the unit. The V75 units have additional features that are not included in the Relay versions. Inventory situation is being hampered by a dock worker's strike. We just got our November boats unloaded last week.

Probably flashing an error code. With the power off put it on channel 6. Then power it on and slide the channel selector switch all the way back and forth 3 times. If that doesn't clear it you will need to return it for service.

You are correct that a 3dB difference in "average" SPL probably isn't noticeable, a 3dB increase in dynamic range might be. Doing Live Sound is always about making compromises. Normally I use L2s over L3s, but it depends on your material and how loud you need to play. I would say that I have also used single L3t over a pair of L3s. This is a case where an L2 probably wouldn't hold up as well.

You will need to calculate to ensure you have no loss in the antenna cable. So add the gain of the antenna and subtract the loss of the cable. You will have to check the specs of the antenna cable for loss per foot/meter. Alternately you could use an inline amplifier to make up for loss.

Have you checked the online box? When you send a support ticket it creates a personal page that would have all the corresponding information.

You should try using an analog hookup and see if the same problem comes back. It is possible that it is not related to L 6 link but could be some other issue with the speaker. Do use the same AES cables as possible. You should also record at the same time and then check the recording for noise.

Remember that speakers do not "stop" at the crossover centerpoint. So with an L3 the "woofer" driver is operating over about 2 octaves when the crossover is set to 100Hz. The difference between using an L2 and an L3 over subs is that you will get an extra 3dB of output in those two octaves from 250Hz down by using L3s. You can also play with the crossover point. It depends on your musical style but for some people that may benefit by manually shifting the crossover point down to 80 Hz. Personally I prefer to pick a crossover point that keeps as much of the low vocal range out of the subwoofer so I generally prefer crossover points a bit on the higher side. But for the flatest, most powerful response you may prefer to go a bit lower. It's a personal decision.

I would check the jacks on the speakers and the plugs on the cables. It sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere.

Let me greatly simplify a couple of issues ... Woofers tend to move back and forth much further than mid range and upper drivers. If you let a woofer reproduce both a very low and a medium high frequency at the same time it creates something called "Doppler distortion". Just to keep the math simple imagine your subwoofer was reproducing both 100 HZ and 1000Hz at the same time. To produce the 1000tone the speaker moves back 1000 times per second but doesn't travel with much distance. But the 100HZ tone moves 100 times per second... 50 times forward and 50 times back. But at this frequency it travels a distance about 20 times further then the cone has to move to produce 1000HZ. So what happens is your 1000HZ tone gets reproduced 50 times while the speaker is pushed all the way out and 50 more times while it's all the way back. That creates a Leslie speaker type effect called Doppler distortion and you can hear it. It gets much worse as the distance traveled to reproduce 50hz takes 80 times more distance. The second problem is that any time two speakers reproduce the same frequency as each other but are physical separated ( even by a few inches) it causes comb filtering. Comb filtering causes notches to be cut out of your program material. This is more audibly apparent at lower frequencies than at higher frequencies. So by crossing over and not overlapping you can keep this to a minimum. If you chose not to crossover then truly some of the frequencies produced at the same time would be slightly louder but some would be greatly reduced and even eliminated entirely. It's usually not a good compromise.

You will get more interference and distortion if you do. It is not intended to work that way

I cannot say with 100% certainty, but I don't believe the Apple branded unit will work any better than the one that you are currently using. I think if you find one that works, it just works. We certify using the Apple unit as it is chipset specific to the code and I assume that any other brand that works do so because it uses the same chipset. There are a lot of brands that come and go so we are not able to certify or even test them all. I suspect that most of your problem is caused by not managing constant line of sight contact. And while raising the router up may be difficult I think it will greatly increase your reliability. Maybe in your situation you can guarantee constant line of sight but it is usually difficult as people tend to walk through it. Are you running 5gHz EXCLUSIVELY in your home network? 5gHz is many times more dependent on line of sight than 2.4gHz is. It is also possible that you have a hardware issue with your adapter, Ethernet cable and router ... And even your iPad so you also need to rule all of that out. You should also sweep for other possible 5gHz RF in the venue as it is possible you just have a radio interference issue. Wi-if was never intended for reliable real time performance.