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stevekc

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Posts posted by stevekc

  1. On older computers there is a mix of USB 1.0 and USB 2.0, - Be sure you always use a USB 2.0 Port, and always use the same physical port you used when you first installed the Line 6 HD-500X USB Driver. If you swap to a different USB port on your computer - expect to re-install the Line 6 HD-500X USB Driver.

     

     

    Re your Error message  - yes I got that too for the first few attempts at connecting the HD-500X   - suggest close all apps, shut down, restart the Computer , then connect the HD-500X with USB, (to the same port you installed the USB Driver), Launch Monkey 1.63 - confirm Monkey can locate your HD-500X

    HD-500X_Version_130724_zps9093a9e2.png

     

     

    Only after Monkey applies all updates, then close Monkey and Retry HD-500X Edit. On my HP HDX-18i Dual Core Win7 laptop  -  Mine took three retries of HD-500X Edit  (with 30 second wait between each attempt) before HD-500X Edit made a successful connection and Sync.

  2. In my opinion the 2010-2011 era JTV-69 is a pure result of flawed CNC Neck profile design for my needs on a very basic level. You must play 5 JTV-69's of that era to find one that is playable.
    Hopefully they fixed this with the current production JTV-69 and JTV-69S

    Sorry for the rant - but the whole affair of the early 2010-2011 era JTV-69 "too narrow" Neck width at the Nut is reminiscent of the bread in this famous sandwich
    7281680786_3eb5dab79d_z.jpg




    Remember I base all this opinion as a long term Les Paul Player.


    Variax_Neck_Comparison
    Variax_Neck_Comparison_111111.jpg

    In my opinion the JTV-69 has really odd geometry. With the wide E-E spacing of 2.1055 inch at the bridge, this leaves only 0.116 inch between the string and the edge of the fretboard at the 12th fret.
    When playing, the JTV-69 has a tendency to have the E strings fall right off the edge of the fretboard, making basic hammer on riffs nearly impossible because the string to string spacing at the Bridge is too wide, for the Neck IMHO.


    Compare the dimensions to the Jay Turser Strat - which is actually a great playing guitar with ideal geometry with more available fret under the string - .15875 inch between the string and the edge of the fretboard at the 12th fret, compared with only 0.116 inch on the JTV-69.

    Another issue is muscle memory - if you are like me and grew up playing fast cross picking riffs on a stock Les Paul / SG, - then a guitar with a wider E-E spaced bridge that is up to 0.1 inch wider than the Gibson can impact your technique and leave you a few missed notes at the gig if you don't adapt your playing style to the wider bridge.



    So here is a list of the problems on the JTV-69.

    * JTV-69 Tremolo Piezo bridge has a very wide "Strat Vintage" E-E spacing of 2.1055 inch at the bridge.

    * JTV-69 Neck above the 5th fret meets my preference for a "Fat" Neck at .92" inch thick, but below the 5th fret the JTV-69 tapers down to a kiddie guitar dimensions being only 1.1612 inch wide at the Nut - I find the JTV-69 neck is just "too narrow" at the Nut for an average adult to play a clean 1st position A7 chord and maintain an open G string. Its rather like they dialed in the CNC machine with the goal of recreating the Neck profile of a '62 Strat - but failed miserably below the 5th fret with a very narrow width at the Nut.

    * Then to add insult to injury the stock JTV69 Nut has the string spacing cut just a bit too wide for the neck, the net impact of all the above dimension of the JTV-69 deliver an unplayable guitar, with both E strings having a tendency to fall right off the edge of the fretboard.

    * The JTV-69 Floating Bridge never returns to center, due to the various methods Line6 informs World Music in Korea to route the bulky hex cable harness

    * it's easy to spot a "problem" early JTV-69 with the bad necks. Find a straight edge steel yard stick and hold it along the edge of the JTV-69 fretboard. Perhaps as a result of over zealous neck sanding at World Music, some JTV-69 fretboards "bow in" at the area around the 7th to12th fret. Stand in front of the guitar and look at the fretboard straight on, and observe the "hourglass"fretboard shape on a problem JTV-69.

    After waiting a year, it took Three warranty replacement JTV-69's until Line-6 could locate one with an acceptable straight fretboard for me back in Nov. 2011



    I go into all more details of The JTV-69 Tremolo issues which I'm proud it became a sticky on the old Line 6 Tyler Variax Forum
    http://line6.com/support/thread/73637

     

    JTV-69 Tremolo with color pics step by step instructions (17 page PDF ) here

    https://www.cx.com/0/io/hotlink/YPIXs8oREeOMhyICCluF4w/Tyler_Variax_JTV-69_Tremolo_Setup_111030.pdf




    By Contrast the JTV-59 is a totally different experience, it feels very much like a PRS McCarty or old Les Paul Neck Profile, and I feel right at home.

    I added a Bigsby B7 to the JTV-59 and finally I'm very happy.

    http://line6.com/support/topic/135-custom-jtv-59-with-bigsby-b7/


    20130523_022424_zpsff90e2d6.jpg

    20130523_022535_zps2a602406.jpg

  3. I initially saw Anthony Lees guitar at Harmony Central Forum a couple weeks ago and decided to do the same with my JTV-69

    20130523_022424_zpsff90e2d6.jpg

     

    20130523_022535_zps2a602406.jpg

     

     

    I just finished these mods late last night, but so far I'm in love. Its one of those situation where "on paper" it appears there are too many liabilities, like managing the upper harmonic "ping" that could occur on the "non-speaking" string length between the bridge and the tailpiece - but in this case the Bigsby B7 has that additional Roller Bar that maintains a good downward pressure force on the Piezo bridge, and during my test drive late last night -All stock Variax Features and sounds work just like a stock JTV-59 - i.e. I do not hear any anomalies !

     

    Modifications so far

    1) Upgraded to GFS Locking Tuners $32 - these are actually from the same Asian supplier that Line 6 uses and bolt right on -
    http://www.guitarfetish.com/Sperzel-Style-Locking-Tuners-3x3-Chrome_p_1172.html

     


    2) Mounted a slightly modified Bigsby B7 Tremolo Tailpiece (Ebay $107) ( inspired by Anthony Lee's JTV-59 with Bigsby)
    http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Electric-Guitars/James-Tyler-variax-JTV-59-upgraded/m-p/35360629#M4181242

    To make this work with the JTV-59 , I modified the Bigsby B7 by sawing off the mount on the upper right - this conflicted with the JTV-59 Bridge.
    Then I drilled a new countersunk mounting screw hole directly under the Bigsby Spring.

     

    3) I'm more of a Gretsch 6120 tone freak, and prefer clean tones, so I swapped out the stock Line6 pickups for a pair of GFS Rectotron Liverpool PUs ( Ebay $50 for the pair)
     http://www.guitarfetish.com/Liverpool-Vintage-Alnico-Humbucker-Chrome_c_125.html

     

    4) Mounted the pickups to a pair of Seymour Duncan Tripleshot rings - Can choose from Series. Parallel, or select which coil is active in single coil mode.
    http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/accessories/triple-shot-mou/triple_shot_swi/

     

    Might ask why add all these magnetic coil select solutions to a JTV-59 Variax? I'm rather anal about my tone, and clean Palm Muting tone is essential for my Surf Band, and despite the progress, none of these Guitar Modelling solutions  we discuss today can duplicate the exact tone I need to achieve clean Palm Muting tone   - (think Astronauts "Baja) for the sound I use regularly  

     



    5) I'm half way done with my JTV-59 Mods - Next I'll mount the Fishman Tripleplay wireless Guitar to MIDI  PU and mount the FTP controller on top of the Bigsby Logo on the tailpiece

     

    http://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=8394.msg62105#msg62105

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