thorneven

This must be somewhere in this forum but damned if I can find it... How does one update the G10 transmitter firmware?  I've got mine plugged into USB, tried USB version 2 and 3 ports, and Line6 Updater nor Monkey recognizes the device.  I'm using the 1/4" USB cable to plug into Windows 10 PC. I have the receiver base but don't see any USB port so I assume I can't use the receiver to update the firmware.  Thanks, Thorne

UPDATE: Never mind. I see the receiver power cable is a USB cable.  I'm ok now.

By any chance does the frequency of the clicking relate to the speed of the TAP control?  If the TAP light is blinking, it may be that EMI from the TAP circuit is bleeding through to the amp circuitry.  I wouldn't think so, but it is technically possible.   If you can, turn the TAP light off and see if the clicking stops.  Thorne

It's more ANGLE-adjustable than height-adjustable, but I use this one:

https://www.interstatemusic.com/54491-On-Stage-Pro-Tilt-Back-Amp-Stand-RS7705.aspx

In order to adjust to a consistent angle at each gig, I scraped off a small amount of the black metal coating on both posi-lok adjustment gears.

Thorne

PS - Surely you've googled stands, but I found this one that is height-adjustable:

https://www.richtonemusic.co.uk/product/quiklok-ql640-guitar-amplifier-stand/

You say "never dropped below 123V."  But a power fluctuation above 123V would cause the symptoms you cite.  Are other devices hooked up to that power cable also experiencing these losses?

Don't you have an LCD meter on the pedal that shows when a note is flat or sharp?  What model pedal are you using?

Contact Line6. Of course they'll help you best they can. At least they can tell you where to get a replacement if one exists.

Everything can be accessed via the amp controls. Have you consulted the manual? It would go something like this... Press the FX button, use the rotary knob to access the WAH effect category, press FX again to get a list of effects, use the rotary knob again to dial in the WAH effect parameters. When done, save the changes you made and press HOME to exit. I think WAH has its own category.   Thorne

On 12/2/2018 at 7:28 PM, darylb said:

 

 

 

Would you say there is much of a difference for just playing at home?  They are on sale and the prices are close enough so I was thinking I might like the fuller sound and the potential coolness of stero affects. I’m really just looking for something fun and inspiring to play. Messed with the 120 briefly in a noisy store and it does sound pretty good. Haven’t found a 240 to try so just looking for opinions. 

For playing at home the 120 is more than enough. I rarely have it past 10'oclock. Lately I've been using my volume knobs on the guitar to switch between rhythm and lead volumes and wow, I'm into it !

If you'll explain what state your amp is in (what is displayed on the amp and LCD screen) when you save settings and where you are adjusting the volume that isn't being saved, maybe we can help you better.  Thorne

How about it, canastoda?  Some audio files would be nice so we can hear the differences.  Thorne

Have you looked here?    https://line6.com/support/manuals/spiderv60

Or check out my attachment:

Spider V Effects List.odt

Yes, I was able to get the Longboard to work, but not all Spider functions can be controlled as with the LIne6 pedal meant for the Spider.  If memory serves, you can change banks (UP and DOWN buttons), but you'll have to do trial and error to see which buttons affect which functions as I forget.  I finally bought the FB3 pedal so I could control more features.   Thorne

PS - I just found my notes on this...

Longboard buttons you can use are:

stomp box 1 (pedal button) --> (controls on Spider V) FX1 on/off (yellow, distortion/comp)

modulation --> FX2 (blue)

delay --> FX3 (green)

amp1 --> looper on (1st press)/overdub (2nd press)

amp2 --> looper off

FX Loop --> compressor

Reverb --> reverb

Couldn't find any pedal buttons that control pitch/synth (purple)

It's done in the PC app, not the mobile app.  If memory serves, it's File > Backup, or something > Backup.  Thorne

There are 2 XLR outs because there are stereo effects and you can program presets to have 2 amps (I think, without looking).  But if you don't use the stereo effects (for example, you use only 1 amp model), one side is marked "mono" and you would use only that one XLR out.

If you have the Spider V 240, that's a stereo amp with 2 speakers, so you have left and right channels and hence left and right XLR outs.

What is "dimed" ?

I was a Vetta 2 user and bought a Spider V 240 (and 120) and am very happy with the similarities.  I wish I could have migrated my Vetta presets to the Spyder but nothing's perfect.

Solo boost - you can set that up yourself and assign it to a footswitch.  Just assign for example a compressor effect with GAIN turned up as loud as you want, assign it and bam - you're done !  Works great except that the foot switches are so close together horizontally that I often end up stepping on the bottom row switches instead of the top row switch to which I assigned the effect !  Several people have complained about this "defect" and also about having the capability to swap the switch rows so you can assign effects to the bottom row and use the top row to select presets in a bank.

That's right.. MIDI out only.

If I understand the manual correctly, that's not what the MIDI interface is for.  The FBV MIDI interface is so that you can program the pedal board to SEND commands outward for example for sending commands to computer audio software, not for changing the behavior of the pedal board.

When I record, I usually don't use an amp.  I usually plug into an old POD 2 and that goes directly into my sound card which is a FocusRite 6i6.  I generally don't like the sound of an amp direct into a sound card.  Then again, I haven't tried it with the Spider V so I can't really judge that.

I don't have any samples of my playing through the Spider V. Actually there may be some on youTube that someone else took, but I don't know where they are.

Definitely try different browsers, but it sounds like it has something to do with codecs or whatever it is in a browser that decides how to interpret files you want to access.  I don't know enough about the topic.  I would try finding in the options menu an item that allows you to restore the browser defaults and try again.  Beyond those 2 ideas, I can't think of anything.  It seems your browser thinks you want to view the file and not download it.  I've experienced the symptoms you observe once in a while and I find if I try again, it usually works.

Thorne

I bought both. The 120 is great for my 9x9 studio, but the 240 is better suited for gigs in larger rooms.  Since the presets are the same on both amps, I backup the presets to my PC and any changes I make to one amp I can duplicate on the other amp. 

The advantage that the stereo gives you are some sound options for more significant echo, chorus and other effects that are more pronounced with 2 speakers.  But using stereo effects live gives your sound engineer a more complicated setup.

I agree with mkaprelian - Use the knob below the LCD display and note the presets you like. You might want to try different pickup selector positions because some presets sound better with certain pickup combinations.  Once you've done that, read the manual, read the forum threads, watch the video tutorials. You can learn a few things from all of that. And when you get comfortable with the amp, venture into playing with the customization options with one of the presets. Don't be afraid to press a button or turn a knob.  You can't hurt the amp.  Just don't turn up the amp volume too loud so that you hurt your ears and get kicked out of your apt/house ! Learn from the manual how to save a preset so if you like the changes you make, you don't lose them.

Thorne

I used the Behringer FCB1010 pedal with Spider III. I miss having 10 footswitches (presets) at my disposal without having to change banks.   Thorne

From a Google search:  Q: How do I perform a factory reset on the Spider V series? A: Hold down the Home button to access the settings menu. Scroll down with the encoder to where it says Factory Reset. Scroll to the right and press the encoder knob to hit Yes.